J.R.

My suggestion would not explain the wire links and extension wires unless you were adaptin another type of microswitch with different pin out spacings.

Replacing the microswitches for the seat adjustment? If so then I would conclude that a new switch unit is silly money or made of unobtanium. How much?

Mine also, I'm glad that you pulled through. I was touch and go with it about 4 years ago, I would not wish it on anybody. I rarely see the Médecin and don't over-react to things but this was one occasion when I knew that something was very very wrong, they said to come back in the afternoon for a consultation which was very good but I politely and firmly said that I would remain there until somebody, anybody, could see me, I doubt that I could have driven home. I was seen by a locum (it was the holiday period) and she knew straight away although did not say so, she inspected every inch of my body for cuts (I now know why) before calling for an ambulance and arranging my admission to the hospital. They never did find what the entry route was (if that is what you call it in English).

High revs is a weak mixture or more precisely an excess of air, probably a vacuum leak, even if you screwed the idle mixture adjustment fully in the revs would not climb excessively, it's either the butterfly not seating or an air leak. Does this carb have an idle bypass volume screw?

You cannot reset the main mixture on a venturi carburettor without changing jets and even then its a juggling act between main jet(s), air corrector jet, emulsion tube, venturi, accelarator pump bleed jet, none of which need touching after a carb rebuild, only if you have breathed on the engine. Idle bleed screw yes and what you should do before stripping the carb is count how many turns to screw it fully home gently and use that as a baseline setting after the rebuild, probably too late to say that now for DieselMonté. High revs will be either one of the butterflies not closing properly, did you disturb or remove them from the spindles? If so they will need recentralising, or you have an air leak into the manifold somewhere. From what you have said I would guess the latter.

The water pump is working, its pumping water when the engine is maintaining the correct temperature, the sleeve which stops the flow during the warm up period can stick in the deployed position causing overheating, this would normally be apparent the first time you put the engine under load after the system has reached operating temperature, I think you described joining a motorway by the slip road. I explained earlier how you could disable it in the safe position to diagnose if it was the faulty item. There is also a DSG thermostat which can cause similar problems, I cant see from this posting window whether your car is a DSG, if it isn't then ignore that.

As much as I despise the Maxidot display telling me that it wants me to change up or down a gear it does not disagree with my driving at 50kph on the flat in 6th gear and accelerating very gently from that, if I am unwittingly in 5th or remaining in 5th because I am about to come out of the 50kph built up area it will often prompt me to change up to 6th. The exception is when it is doing a regen and the gear change indicator being one ratio less than normal is my confirmation that I am correct, the slight change in engine note is indeed a regeneration, otherwise I have to wait to stop at traffic lights or a junction to see if the idle speed is increased but often it isn't because it has already given up.

I have the rear seats removed as well! The last time I took them out it became a permanent measure, 13 years with Octavias and all I ever needed to do was occasionally lift out the light foam & cloth rear seat squabs for a few more inches of length and they would always be carried on or with the load, with the Yeti I cant carry anything of consequence without removing and lugging away 3 very heavy Varioflex seats and I have to think of this first before going to collect anything, impulse purchases like DIY materials on promo are a big problem. Its far easier to refit the seats and parcel shelf on the rare occasions that I carry rear seat passengers than remove them constantly for materials. I really should buy a Transit or the like but can't bear to part with the Yeti! I do however have 7 trailers (maybe more, I have lost count) of various sizes weight capacities and volumes.

No, mine have lasted 3 years since changing to LHD headlights and the original ones looked like they still had the original bulbs, cornering lights are activated on my vehicle.

Mine does not have the writing, I cannot see a bag inside, it does not appear to be double skinned but I am still wary and constantly on the lookout for signs of problems, finding sand deposits in coolant drained from the system would put me into Defcon 1!

Much being the operative word, when I am driving at 1000-1200 rpm in 5th or 6th gear if I need to do any more than a tiny acceleration to keep up with traffic or maintain speed on a very slight incline using a very small amount of throttle then I downshift one or more gears according to the need and situation. It's how I have always driven any vehicle whatever the engine, I never allow them to labour and only use full throttle when the engine is within its operating torque curve, driving at 1000 or 1200 rpm per sé is not bad practice, it's how you do it, general advice is just that and intended for the lowest common denominator. I drive with a high degree of mechanical sysmpathy, I get feedback through all my senses, the reason why I rarely have music playing, I would drive another identical example of my car in a completely different manner not using low revs were I to sense any labouring or harmonic vibration from the drive train.

I would say that its a lack of vacuum to the actuator that holds the secondary barrel closed, if it is vacuum operated then it will have a spring that opens the butterfly opposed by manifold vacuum which holds it closed during the initial stage of the loud pedal stroke. Or maybe you have got a spring or linkage misplaced.

I do it all the time but only on a very light throttle, the engine has lots of low down torque and the 110 engine in standard form is very gentle on the DMF, mine was past its best but I would never have known there were no noises or vibrations even when accelerating from low revs in high gears, after a remap (which I notice yours has had which could be significant) I had clutch hydraulic problems caused by the vibrations from higher revs which the engine pre remapping could never reach. I replaced the DMF with the clutch as I could see that it was sloppy, afterwards the engine was much quieter at high revs, the growling clatter which I thought was normal for a highly tuned TDi at high revs had gone, the low running speed was as quiet as before, no change. So you may have a failing DMF especially as your engine has been remapped, does it sound growly at high revs and do you use the extra rev range? I believe from my own experiences that the higher powered engines are harder on the DMF's, others may confirm or dispute this. I still drive in built up areas at 1k rpm in 6th gear and accelerate gently from there without downchanging, the full on torque comes in very soon after with the smaller turbo than the stock 170hp engine would have. What stage of remap did you have? Mine is supposedly 184hp from Celtic Tuning, I reckon its the factory 170hp map.

Have a good feela round the corners of the footwell, up around where the carpet tucks behind the centre console etc, you will probably find the plastic gear wheel that the technician did not displace 😆

= Silkat contamination in my opinion.

An engine will not overheat because the anti-freeze concentration is weak or even running on plain water, the thermostat might open a miniscule amount further to maintain the operating temperature but it is not something that could even be measured.

Your Silkat bag has burst and the system needs a complete and thorough chemical flushing and probably replacement of the heater matrix. There is a strong possibility that the water pump shroud has stuck on the new pump, to confirm this wait until the car is bhaving correctly and engine at operating temperature and then remove the electrical connector to the water pump, if the problem does not recur then you need to either replace the pump or leave the cable disconnected. Long term you still have issues with the Silkat crystals blocking the cooling system so this should also be attended to.

Good luck with getting the dealer who sold you it to fix a POS aftermarket accessory with bodged wiring! Thats a wish, not an opinion nor an idea. 😆

Your first mistake probably is to believe the seller when he says the parking sensors not working is a fault with the head unit, they may well have failed of their own accord. It could be that the particular head unit does not display parking sensor info, the one I fitted to my 2006 Octavia didn't but the audible warning tone (which gets progressively more insistent the closer you get to an obstruction) carried on as before, TBH the stock display was pretty useless anyway and I never used it or would accept what it said as gospel. Nobody here can tell you what head unit will fix the problem if that is not actually what the problem is, the parking sensor system is fragile enough without any help and the head unit if compatible is simply displaying info taken from the canbus communications from the parking sensor module if it is working correctly. I don't have parking sensors on my current Yeti, with a reversing camera I don't feel the need for them, £10 spent on a reversing camera which will almost certainly be compatible with the head unit you have would be money well spent rather than spaffing away hundreds on another head unit to not fix a fault with the parking sensors. Maybe things are different on a 2009 Octavia, others will say if the above is incorrect for your vehicle.

Don't know the answer but my unch would be the ABS valve block and/or controller, wheels locking up is a sign of the ABS not working, without it the vehicle is very overbraked or more likely overservoed, its very hard to cadence brake because with the ABS not working they lock up so easily, not releasing though is very scary. It does not sound like you have a fluid leak and were you to have one you would no doubt see the master cylinder level drop but I would point out that your engine off pedal rock solid test can't be relied on because the servo control loading spring is massive due to the overservoing and you would really need to be bending the seat back to overcome it to test the master cylinder.

If you are in tune with your engine (pun intended) sometimes you can hear & feel the engine note being a bit raspy, idle will go up from 800rpm to 1K rpm but it often does that at other times as well. You may see the dashboard gear indicator telling you to change down where it would not normally do so and in circumstances where you basically disagree. You may hear the cooling fans running but only at a standstill & if you have the windows open or have better hearing than me. You will not fail to notice the fans running when you stop if you have interrupted a regen.

Plenty of people on Ebay with the kit to clone the keys immobiliser chip and sync it to the central locking, also sellers of keys cut to a photograph, if you are lucky you might find one that does both cheaply. Beginning of the confinement I paid £40 or £50 to an Albanian to supply, cut and program a key, parked outside what looked like a squat in a dodgy part of London he had taken my key to cut it and I wondered whether he was going straight out the back gate to somewhere else to return later to steal my car that I could no longer start!!! It all ended up fine, he had some programming of the key to do in the vehicle after using my one in the ignition, the kit he used was the best a car thief can buy 🤣 You do not want to go down this route if there is a possibility that an original key could be in the hands of someone dodgy, or should I say dodgier than the dealer who sold you the car.

Sounds like an advert for an oven cleaner! A Mr Muscle enema (well the Lidl version) sorted out my MK1 Octavia several times, not sure I would try it on a DPF but if it was blocked anyway what is there to lose?

Smart thinking! 👍

It will if anything be sitting higher but your comments are still valid. Perhaps there is some calibration set up to be done with the vehicle at normal ride height? It may have been done before with the sagging springs.