J.R.

The clutch hydraulic system uses the brake fluid reservoir but the take off port is higher up so the brakes will never be affected even by a complete fluid loss in the clutch hydraulics.

I'm not sure that it can be set with a value, I think it was either a 1 for existing DPF or 0 for the new one. I agree that it would be better for me to reset it to an approx correct value if it can be done, and I will try to do so but the problem I now have is that having reset it to zero before learning that the oil ash mass was actually being recorded I never got to see what it was it before so don't know what figure to put in if indeed it is possible. Car has done 103 or 104K miles (too cold and dark to go out and check) oil ash volume was showing at 0.11 litres having clocked up from 0.1 litres at 100K miles.

Fingers, you might need pliers the first time to take its virginity! I advise you to disconnect the air filter housing and pull it out of the way so that you can see what is going on the first time, use a short length of clear tube, you will see the air come out followed by the fluid & then you can close the nipple, its all very slow as it happens by gravity. As I was having to do it so often before biting the bullet & removing 68kgs of 4wd transmission I left the tube attached and removed the single screw fixing for the airbox, thereafter I could lift it from its rubber retainers and move it sideways to get my Popeye forearms in to do the business, by then I did not need to look and could work by feel.

I found the measuring block IDE6059 for oil ash mass, it was there all along 😳, trouble is now that my curiosity made me tell the ECU that the DPF has been changed it is showing zero like the oil ash volume. The car has done 134kms since the last regen and looks to be more than halfway to the next at a claculated 12g of soot, measured is half that, it has all been local short journeys so I guess to be expected. The DPF diff pressure readings (134kms since regen are now 9Hpa at idle rising slowly to 70Hpa at the 2.5krpm stationary rev limit, worse than they were before but nothing to worry about yet, my journey profile since the lockdown has not been a good one for a DPF equipped diesel engine, the imminent change to Life Version 4.0 will mean a change to better journeys for the engine.

Even without the spring assitance or perhaps that should be despite the spring assistance the pedal shoul return to just shy of the high position from the return force of the clutch diaphragm through the hydraulic system, that it doesn't without some help is indicative of the actual problem. I advise you to stop lubricating the pedal and address the problem of air in the hydraulics, it may only bring temporary respite but is very easy to do and once you have done it once after removing the airbox to see what you are doing you will realise that it can be done blind, by hand in only a few seconds, the half turn knurled plastic thumbscrew on the bleed nipple needs opening for the couple of seconds it takes for the air to be released from the purge volume on the clutch bleed block. Towards the end I was having to do it multiple times even on local journeys. The only cure is to replace the concentric slave cylinder or the O ring joining the inlet pipe, as the gearbox has to come out to do it clearly the former is the logical choice. The only 100% sure long term cure is to find and fit a new old stock original one piece alloy version fitted to earlier vehicles.

The new unit will require the parameters coding to correspond with the equipment fitted to your vehicle, normally this is done by saving or copying the coding of your old unit. It sounds like your garage has neither the means (VCDS or similar) or the competence to do this.

Its not needed as that can never be cause of a non returning clutch pedal. There is a control loading spring and cam that not only assists the pedal in the 2nd half of the return stroke but which will push and hold it to the floor on the downstroke, it is the opposing hydraulic pressure from the clutch springs via the slave cylinder, the hydraulic fluid and finally the master cylinder that lifts the pedal to the midpoint at which point the spring assistance works with that pressure instead of against it. The fault will be air in the system, the cause, and I would bet my house this vehicle has a concentric slave cylinder, will be air being drawn in around the O ring seal in the joint between the two plastic mouldings making up the feed pipe and the cylinder. Bleeding the system will bring some respite but the problem will swiftly reoccur, lifting the pedal makes things worse as it draws more air in, replacement will cure the problem but the replacement cylinder will have the same weakness and will fail in the same way in time, not good when the garage will have insisted on replacing the cutch and DMF at the same time giving the owner a 4 figure bill and a clock ticking down to the next one. If you are very lucky then you might find a new old stock aluminium one piece concentric slave cylinder, these can never fail in this manner.

No and yes, the adaptions were always just setting the sensor offset, however the last time I did tell the system that a new DPF had been fitted, nothing ventured nothing gained!!!!! Thanks for the additional figures, tomorrow I will connect up and look for that elusive IDE06059. I'm sure that I have seen the IDE06060 before but they both are so far down the menu structure that by that time I am goggle eyed after clicking on parameters and finding they are not supported, the oil ash mass should be with the other parameters at IDE 433, 435 and 435.

Agreed, I have done the adaptation to reset the offset several times, on subsequent checking the reading without the engine running it can be plus or minus 1Hpa which I consider normal, atmospheric pressure varies. The initial offset was substantial, since my adaptations it has always been minor, I suspect that the sensor may have been replaced in the past but never adapted.

I have just found some notes from a previous scan taken about 4k miles ago. Differential pressure at idle = 6 Hpa, at 2.5K RPM = 40Hpa, it was then regenning after 320kms The field regen service limit was 22.89g, I must look to see if I can increase that. The pressure readings may be different now since I have adapted the sensor a couple of times. The high winds are getting worse so it probably won't be today.

Just checked, I have version 21.9.

Brilliant thanks, when I get the courage to go out and brave the high winds I will check, in the meantime I will connect the dongle within wifi range as I think my version is 19.6, an upgrade will help.

Does the idle differential pressure rise as the soot level approaches the regen threshold? If so I guess I should test after a regen, when were your new readings taken?

Thankyou ever so much for that, I have not found the seperate channel on VCDS or if I did amongst the thousands it will have been another one that said "not supported" or whatever the term is, if you can tell me what the name of it was then I will look again. After years of searching you have finally given me the Holy Grail, the differential pressure at idle of a blocked and free flowing DPF so I will be checking mine today. Mine is currently regenning between 210km on autoroutes working very very hard and 90km in urban use, I expect that I will find that the differential pressure will correspond to that, at least I will know that I need to clean the DPF.

You think wrong. Although for new cars with xenon or LED headlights they may well have a flat beam pattern regardless of whether they are made for the EU or UK market. BPL is correct about EU drivers not bothering, its because they have no idea, there are not the entrepeneurs and chancers out there with the scare stories to exploit their god fearingness, for that you need a UK company 🤣 https://ukauto.fr/votre-adaptateur-phare-angleterre-stickers-phares/ A Google translate of their French sales pitch: Your England headlight adapter headlight stickers. The headlights of vehicles traveling on the European continent are specially designed to drive on the right side of the road. Therefore, when driving on the left in England regarding your headlight adapter, you may dazzle oncoming motorists with your headlight adapter.This is dangerous with your England headlight, illegal and should be avoided day and night (especially in rainy or foggy weather, etc.).

Langers. Thanks again for your advice, fuel economy on the Yeti is poor compared with the previous Octavias, it's not just the fuel being consumed during the regens but the bore wash that I am concerned about, if it had a 5th injector into the exhaust manifold I would be more cool about it. Yes I realise that I can interrupt the regens but given my short journey cycles since Covid once it has started its better to let it finish, if not then it will try and fail again every journey, the other thing is having been stuck here before for more than a week waiting for a battery I am a bit paranoid and take good care of the one fitted, I just dont like walking away hearing a fan running consuming honky-tonk watts because one day it may not stop after the required time. I am not spending enough time or long enough visits in the UK to get the emissions fix unfixed, the only place I knwo that can do it is in Cornwall, the people whose remap I have, it was installed by one of their agents but they can't do the rollback. Would you or anyone else know of someone competent in the South East area that could do it for me?

How did you come by those figures Mishu? Are they the values that VCDS (or similar) were giving for oil ash or was that what was measured/weighed during a DPF clean? Also where did you get the correlation between the mass and volume? I am pretty excited about the latter, if its from a reliable source then it would indicate that my ECU thinks I have 45g of oil ash so I have some breathing space and its probably a pessimistic figure in my case. Was your DPF cleaned or replaced? Did you see a big difference? What is the frequency of regens now? It's good to finally know what to expect when mine becomes clogged, that it wont just shut down and I will have plenty of warnings by the frequent regens.

Another poster asking for advice without saying what engine they have and moreover whether petrol or diesel If it is the latter then it will likely be a clogged up motorised throttle valve, remove it and clean it out, you will be amazed at how choked up it will be. When they get really clagged the engine shakes on shut down. At the same time take the opportunity to reverse the orientation of the EGR boss so that it does not continue to clog the valve, better still disable it with an EGR emulator.

It will work but really needs the offset value setting, this is calibration of the sensor to atmospheric pressure, the danger is that your old sensor may have been calibrated with a significant offset that the new one does not need or vice versa.

Even if they do know different they can't be seen to be going off script.

I have fitted a couple of sets of them and they have been excellent, the last ones were more plasticky than rubbery and one did split when it hit an obstruction.

That is what I use on the Yeti. Incredibly heavy, the rim is made of 5mm steel and the tyre rubber feels like it is a solid tyre, I guess the only way that they could match the load rating. I have a 4x4 so no spare wheel well, I also have a variofloor crammed full of junk, if I take the space saver (not) spare with me on a long journey there is no room for anything else on the boot floor and precious little room above it, if I am not pulling a trailer where I can put it I have to remove the rear seats. I would dearly love to mount it externally.

Completely disconnect the aftermarket radio, unless you change to a higher revision number CAN gateway then it will not shut down as it does not get the correct sign off signal from the radio, the radio is shutting down hence no current but the CAN gateway cannot, the 100ma sounds about right for that problem.

Stating the obvious, given that oil ash comes from the oil that is burned any oil consumption is bad, in 17 years and probably 400K miles of driving 1.9TDi's PD's and now a 2.0 CR TDi I have only ever once needed to top up the oil so maybe 1l in all that time and I used to really stretch the oil change intervals. Burning 1l every 2K miles I would expect the DPF to become clogged very quickly, lets hope that cleaning will get rid of the gunge.

Why would a cycle to work scheme pay for people to drive their car carrying the bike instead of riding the bike? People are getting paid to stay at home and ride Peleton bikes, maybe also being paid to carry bikes on their car it's a crazy world that we live in.