J.R.

Lots of discussion about gearbox oil, all the views have their merits but good, bad, low or even a complete absence of gearbox oil will not make any difference to reverse gear selection at standstill with or without synchromesh or to clutch drag. Still he should be thankfull not to have been advised to charge or replace the battery 😆 Linkage adjustment first priority 👍

102K and a lot of long critical journeys ahead of me, definitely time for an inspection, thanks for the timely reminder 👍

Cam belts are maintenance free in the same way as auxiliary drive belts, they are self tensioning, you dont need to oil them, when they break you replace them............................ together with the valves, pistons........................... 🤣 If they said it was maintenance free and does not need replacing for the life of the engine that would be another thing although probably again true as they will both expire together!!

The VAG Climatronic self study guide will give you all the information you could ever want, its generic for all the vehicles but the Yeti is no different. Dasboard removal gives full access to everything, it sounds extreme but is in fact very easy to do. Every system including the Climatronic can be run with the dashboard removed, you just need to plug everything back in like the instrument console etc. With VCDS you can command all of the flaps and see how many degrees they have moved compared to commanded, no need for endoscopes, grovelling around under the dash or removing it unless you find a motor or flap that needs replacing that cannot be accessed otherwise.

These things are sent down to try me! It will be a screw up of mine and not failure of the module, thats what I am hoping anyway.

I would never consider a newer car but I did look at the specs, you are right, the basic model has all that I could ever want and the extras for the higher specs are all things that I would actually gladly pay more not to have 🤣

I use very good glycerine filled Molex BT splice connectors, far better than Scotchloks and have not had a bad connection yet. Probably a crimp spade terminal to the switch or fuseholder, both require the side panel taking off which is a real pain as I have a variofloor with tons of junk beneath it, hopefully I can release the top rear edge.

Assuming the seats have the buckle retainers fixed to them, have you ever completely removed the seats and were there wiring connectors to remove? Or I could ask the question in another way, do the icons light up when the rear seat belts are clipped in and out of the retainers? Again on the assumption that the retainers are fixed to the seats like the Yeti.

My socket did not work when I towed my UK neighbours trailer, it was OK on my tester here in France, tonight I coupled a roulotte to shift some stuff tomorrow, while I was attending to a dodgy indicator bulb the relay failed in front of me, it had had the lights and hazards going for about 20 minutes. I think it might be the power to the relay from the accessory socket, it has a switch & fuse & the voltage is dropping to 7v, a daylight job. Just as well it has failed now as I have some 10 hour fully loaded and then some! trailer journeys to do soon. I hope its not the relay because we need to have confidence in these things, I would rather it was my own shortcoming.

Women have far more common sense than I do. I'm still unsure if the gaiter was too large or too small to fit but glad you found a way. I have a dilator for stretching CV gaiters over the joint in situ without removing the joint from the shaft, its amazing how far they will stretch but on a steering rack its finding the space to do so.

Do they have big feet?

Correct, it runs inverted over the tensioner pulley. I checked the one on my MK1 Octavia up to 250000 miles when I saw the first sign of degradation, it was in fact on the outside of the belt and very visible, some of the circumferential reinforcing cords becoming exposed. I had always paid most attention to the teeth and the root of the teeth which were still OK but if one cord had broken and flailed around it would have been game over. I wasn't quite so blasé with the PD engine.

Low fuel light comes on half way into the red range which equates to 1/8 on the guage, 1/8 tank capacity if everything correctly calibrated. Below half a tank it falls faster than the real fuel level does and also the mile remaining maxidot display, when it shows empty and zero miles remaining there will be a virtual reserve capacity of between 5 and 7 litres, how many miles depends on the engine and driving style, speed, conditions etc. Using VCDS I can see the resistance of both my fuel level senders (its a saddle tank) how many litres of fuel each are recording and also how many litres total, I can also correct the guage calibration to make it read full scale on a full tank. So to recap, you can trim the fuel guage to read correctly on a full tank, it will tell the truth down to 1/2 a tank and then become more and more pessimistic as it falls to create the virtual reserve capacity. It might start at less than 1/2 tank capacity, its very difficult to see initially.

Too small. I am amazed at the complexity and nullity of the proposed solution. without the hot water it might just work but silicone is still flexible and has its memory at sub zero temperatures.

The roof rails/rack design is absolutely superb, you could carry a pallet or whatever with the rails removed & stowed it it would be located fore & aft.

My old school Nokia (well one of the many triggers brooms) was on the countertop above the sink and on vibrate, the obvious happened but this one was very different, it had been underwater for a couple of hours & was still working, I could see the missed caller & the time. Other phones even if I rescued and dried them quickly did not survive intact, what was different was that I had washed up a frying pan , the water was not greasy & I would have washed up other dishes using it but the small amount of oil was in suspension and made the water into a good insulator.

I did just that on my MK1 Octavia, it had a split charge relay for the caravan socket but I also fitted a 2 pin connector so I could remove the caravan battery and charge it in the back of the car on journeys away from the caravan. That one was powered from the rear cabin accessory socket, not the preferred way but it was a corner worth cutting, the fuse never blew, a car cigarette lighter takes a lot of current I used one to make a load tester for lead acid alarm batteries, 6ah being the biggest.

Oil is an insulator, I doubt that it would be creating a short and blowing a fuse. A lot of gate automation motors run in an oil bath. Other than the oil level/temperature sensor there is not a lot beneath the sump mating faces.

It will be as Wino suggests or a bad connection to the pump unit, that should not pull down the other controllers though. Short to ground actually means voltage too low, it means the voltage has dropped too low and will either be the charging system as Wino has linked to (my vote) or a high resistance/damaged cable, it could of course be an intermittent short to earth but the conditions when it occurs are high current draw low (or no) charging voltage.

The thermostat shown has a jiggle pin to allow a small amount of water circulation which prevents it opening with a bang way past the set temperature however if they are fitted backwards (usually the design will prevent this) they cause all sorts of problems, also on kit car conversions like a water rail for the Zetec which places the thermostat remotely drilling a calibrated hole in the stat is necessary.

You have completely lost me there, $ scale? both sides of the equation? Could you explain what you meant originally and are trying to say now, preferably with an example please?

I am still amazed that after unwittingly driving 20K miles over 2 years with plain tap water in my cooling system what came out looked as clean as a whistle with no traces of corrosion residue, I have never ever seen that before in 30 years of running bangers where the cooling systems were constantly leaking or being drained for mechanical work and anti-freeze was an afterthought when the freezing weather came, ie not constantly in the system. And my car seemingly does not have the Silkat which VAG say is there to give corrosion protection if the system has no anti-freeze. At best mine may have had half a litre of the original mixed G13 coolant remaining mixed with the water but you could not see from the colour or taste. At present until I get back to the UK and the delivery of G13 I have less than a 1/3 of the concentration of G12+ in the system that it should have, I will be concerned if we have a prolonged freeze below -10°c but not concerned about corrosion.

You forgot to deduct 32 before the fraction.

But I bet your rear seats & seat belt buckles are not monitored, mine certainly are not.

That will make Varioflex removable rear seats or whatever they are called hugely complicated, they probably wont continue. I dont know if its one or two decades since I learned of a new development or requirement that made me think "I really should consider a new or newer car", nowadays scarcely a week goes by before I read of yet another feature or characteristic that furthers my resolve to not buy anything newer than what I have, in fact my EU5 vahicle is a dissapointment in so many ways that I would buy the best example of an older non afflicted vehicle.