J.R.
Resident Member
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Everything posted by J.R.
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Its canbus controlled and has a canbus controller on the motor PCB, no schematic, just power, earth and a twisted pair for comms. The rear wiper stalk switch is wired to the body control module. You can gain some time by greasing the drive gears and removing the motor brush gear end cap to lubricate the bush, after a year mine went again on the journey to deliver the car to its new owner, I wish I had spent the €30 to replace it. The above is on the assumption that the Fabia has the same motor type as the Octavia, I believe it has and your failure mode is identical to mine.
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Sounds like a connector problem, have the fault codes read again.
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Forget the foregoing, I hadn't realised it was the reservoir, even if the breather was blocked that sort of pressure would not build up. sounds like you will be able to make a no cost repair.
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Pressure relief valve stuck closed? Looking at the large diameter of the O ring a huge amount of axial force could be produced if overpressured fluid cwere able to act on the whole diameter.
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Learn to modulate your throttle input AKA driving responsably. It"s scary enough knowing that there is a generation of drivers who cannot make the connection between their right foot and the resultant wheel torque, who are a liability in snow & ice conditions, who cannot drive out of a muddy field etc, to realise that some of them plant the throttle with 335 hp in 3rd gear in wet conditions driving faster than the national speed limit is a sobering one.
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No problems, I was severely sight impaired when I did the job, I was working by feel and instinct. The difficulty with the hook is refitting it, the screw can easily get pushed out and fall behind the trim, hold the screw in place with a screwdriver while offering up the hook correctly aligned.
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Having persevered and taken a few apart I would say not a chance in hell. If you take it apart to be sure you will break an intact seal and have more than a good chance of creating a leak when you try to reseal it. That isn't water damage but oxidisation from ambient moisture like any other aluminium underbonnet part.
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With a thin blade screwdriver you pop out the rectangular screw cover that you can just make out in the enlarged photograph, then unscrew with a Torx 20 or 25 driver. You are not alone, I could not initially see them either.
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Good to know, it sounds like you will find a way, despite all the canbus stuff which really only reduces the number of wires and the conductor sizes, the motors will indeed work if voltage is applied directly to them, be aware that you will lose any over-current protection if the seat is jammed or at the end of its stroke if the system had it. Also the standard switches will almost certainly not be rated for the full motor current but simply to send a control signal to the module.
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Without being able to consult that wiring diagram I cannot say for sure but my knowledge of how these systems work in modern VAG vehicles I would be very very surprised if the loom etc that you are seeking to hard wire the seat controls actually exists, especially given the seat memory function linked to the key. I am reasonably confident that any switches on the seat send back a minimal current control signal to the relevant Canbus module that in turn powers the relevant seat motors just in the way that the electric windows and door mirrors work, it will be the Body Control Module or Comfort control module, they keep changing the names, each seat may well have its own canbus node built in, the rear wiper motor does and that is a lot simpler. So I don't think you are going to find a sub loom and if there are wires back to the body control module they will be part of the full vehicle loom which you will not be able to remove and swap. You may be lucky to find that the seats just have one or two power wires, an earth and a twisted pair for the canbus, that would be much simpler to create a seperate sub loom for. At best the bodt control module will need reprogramming for the higher option seats (were they even an option on your vehicle?) at worst you may need a higher revision level module. I could do it, its a more in depth but similar task to adding cruise control to my vehicle, one that I have yet to have the motivation to spend the time on for little reward.
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Your Skoda what? Without giving the model, year, engine type etc you will only get well meaning but probably wide of the mark advice.
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There is no difference in the brake calipers whether ABS is fitted or not. "You cant buy the repair kits from the manufacturers like you used to............" Lucky I have got a long memory, you are talking about something that happened 40 years ago, in the meantime there has been a whole cottage industry grown to fill the void, grown and died and resurrected in China for the manufacturing and t'internet for the sellers. I still have a tool draw full of new old stock cylinders and repair kits from the 60s and 70s, recently I sold my Caterham Blackbird that I built in 2002 and which had stood since 2004, the purchaser was on his way and I was trying to resolve a sticking Willwood race clutch master cylinder with a swollen seal, it was a 5/8" bore and I had an unused Girling seal from the 60's amongst my stock which fitted perfectly. Garages are still allowed and permitted to repair hydraulic components, nobody has forbidden them, for expediency they choose not to and who can blame them, they make more money fitting new parts, have less hassle and less comeback.
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As there doesnt seem to be a window on the Tell You Log to tell you what the MPG is am I right in concluding it was yet another chocolate teapot that does the same job as me writing on the petrol pump card reciept how many miles & how many litres before resetting the trip and then doing mental arithmetic? The crazy thing about my malarial brain damage is that I am more than capable of converting the litres to gallons then dividing them into the miles driven to get the MPG in my head whilst driving but am not capable of retaining the initial figures for 30 seconds in my memory to do the calculation after I have driven off.
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What I said above about it being very hard to bounce test the front dampers due to the stiff suspension.......... well it ain't true, its very easy to do a bounce test when your dampers no longer function whatsoever as I found this evening 😳 I can't believe that pitching aside I had no indication when driving, no dipping under braking or roll instability when cornering, no wheel hop from potholes, the car must have a very good roll bar set up to mask such a deficiency. I got a real shock when I saw the price of new struts, £39 a pair delivered 😆 They cost more than that trade for a !ford Tincorner 45 years ago.
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A possibility but if not the pattern part replacement sprag clutch is far more likely to fail prematurely than the OE would have been. The only exceptions to my rule is when the original design was faulty or insufficient and the aftermarket ones are modified/beefed up.
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By my best estimate the last time I was able to remove a non removable piece of plastic and access filler plugs to top up a battery that everybody else would replace because it was sealed for life and would not hold a charge was 1992. I did get really destructive with one some years later, the current non AGM liquid acid type and I totally destroyed it with no way of putting Humpty Dumpty back together again and I did not even come within sniffing distance of any acid. The top plate covering the labrinth overpressure vent matrix is ultrasonically welded. You could leave a battery upside down for a month and it would not spill a drop of fluid or even vent gas unless you were to charge it at double voltage. The case would become horribly distorted through the heat of overcharging like the batteries in my fire alarm panel (voltage regulator failure) but it still would not leak acid.
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Are the bulbs all the same make or batch? Have you fitted one of them to the right hand side which didn't blow? I suggest next time the LH bulb blows replace it with the RH one and put the new one in the RH side, wait to see which one blows next. A bad connection does not cause bulb filament failure but the heat from arcing can damage the connector and wiring. Vibration is a possibility if not correctly seated but unlikely, there is no significant pendulum mass and the wiring harness will damp any movement. If it continues then I would susect the body control module, might be called the comfort control module, the headlam voltage can be altered by programming, maybe it is at 100% charging voltage 14.4v and there is a higher resistance on the RHS circuit protecting that bulb.
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Its a shame I did not find those air springs before, I fitted the rough road package springs to my Octavia which raised the ride height & increased the spring rate but did not compromise the ride. I did the same on the Yeti (broken rear coil) which already had the "Outdoor" suspension set up, ride height unchanged, slightly firmer ride but recently it has started a very noticable pitch oscillation when I hit a couple of bumps at the natural frequency of the (I think) rear suspension, it carries on pitching for some while as if there is no damping, its very hard to test the dampers by a bounce test as the suspension is so stiff to start with. It feels just like an early Suzuki SJ410 driving over a hard baked rutted field!! Not sure what it looks like, I know the rear suspension is very stiff (even though the ride feels OK aside from the pitching) because I have been towing some very very heavily loaded trailers, when I had a big amount of nose weight the rear of the vehicle barely settled but the front end rose, it was pivoting about the rear axle! That is when I first noticed the pitching on autoroutes but it also does it when not towing but with a reasonable load in the rear. I am tempting to buy a pair of standard rear springs and see if the ride improves, if it did I would definitely fit those air springs.
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Its the reason that my postings are consistent, it's very easy to spot those that overimbibe and to avoid engaging with them after a certain hour. It's a real problem on French forums hence my earlier comment. I have witnessed the decline of many from my computer, several divorces and sadly a couple of suicides. There but for the grace of god go I, I could so easily have gone the same way, I was on the path when I became teetotal 12 years ago.
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What is sync supposed to do?
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I second the above, I think the actual rather than calculated figures for soot load measured by the DPF differential pressure sensor is only ever used to trigger a regen if it reaches the threshold before the calculated, mine is always a lot lower, I don't mind it burning off the soot more often but it consumes fuel unecessarily and if I continue driving to allow it to complete I am wasting even more fuel. I now juts let it do its thing & will only go for a regen drive if the warning light comes on, it has never happened and is only likely to if I do nothing but short urban journeys. I do keep an eye on things via VCDS though & am concerned about what will happen when the flawed calculations decide that the DPF is full of oil ash.
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I don't drink alcohol. Not everybody moves to France for wine, beer food and tobacco. I may not be able to move there for a long time, I have a hôtel devoid of any custom since Covid to sell first.
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Take it if you want, I would use my French one. I will be completely removed from England within 6 months, all that remains is a few sticks of second hand furniture and some duplicate tools, my two workbenches currently making the outside workshop under the carport are the only things that I know for sure will be leaving with me. I did all the post Brexit customs declarations for the previous removal journeys they were classed as one removal and have to be completed within 6 months, that has now expired
