J.R.

My car I bought after the scandal was common knowledge, it turns out to have had the emission fix, I genuinely did not know before buying because: 1. I did not bother to check 2. I would not have given a flying **** whether it had or not, it was a very cheap project car written off for stupid insurance reasons. 3. I can get the "fix" rolled back when I have the engine remapped. So I had no hurt feelings but on reflection I realise that I am simply unaware of having any hurt feelings so I am going to consult one of these lawyers so they can tell me if I do in fact have hurt feelings and how to become compensated for them. Come to think of it I was traumatised at having to do this job:

Double posting

A marriage made in heaven!

I wont bother answering a question that you already know the answer to, perhaps you did not see the word "most" The paint looks to be removed only at the exposed corner & would be an easy touch in.

You will be old one day! Most of that looks like it will compound out, its the price we all pay for having stupid painted plastic things not worthy of the title "bumper"

Remember to take a copy of the coding of your old unit while it its still connected and to recode the new one the same. It solved my current draw problem with an aftermarket head unit on a 2006 Octavia so I am confident it will do the same for you if you bought the correct revision number. I cant recall what is the minimum revision letter to resolve the problem, Q is a lot later than F so you will probably be alright, Google will tell you, it will most likely be a Rosstech web page.

'kin dangerous. I'm all for the Darwinian pruning of the idiots that want to look at a screen and not the real world but not for the other innocent casualties.

You are out by a factor of 10 MicMac, 7ma would be a tiny quiescent current draw, 70ma if maintained would result in a discharged battery if the vehicle is not regularly used. Most of them drop down to 10-15ma after the Canbus has gone to sleep. However, 7 or 70ma is tiny compared to what is going on with the OP's vehicle. That they dont have battery problems does point to the alarm siren being activated as it should time out after a few minutes without draining the battery too much, I would have expected to see the hazard lights flashing though. The OP may want to consider timing how long the 400ma discharge is maintained and also whether they have their multimeter on the correct range and are reading the digits correctly, is it 400ma or 40ma?

I have no clue what you are talking about and am happy to remain ignorant!

I have fitted something similar to both my current and previous car, 1/3 of that price though, all the features but not Android Auto or Carplay or whatever these "must haves" are for the generation that absolutely have to have their vehicle as an extension of their smartphone. It fits discreetly into the dashboard in place of the OE radio and does not look like someone has stuck a tea tray on vertically with bluetack.

Looks amazing?? It would take all of my willpower to stop me from ripping that from the dashboard and throwing it out of the window. But I realise that I am a dinosaur, if having a plastic tea tray sticking out from your dashboard is your thing then fill your boots. It wont be long before you can opt for the driverless car so you can have a 6' wide LED windscreen to look at and play with instead of looking through.

Satisfied? Not really, when you use a term such as "lets be clear" its stating something to be a fact in a very authorative manner and others will take it is so, which is why I asked the question. So not an injector but injection & the DPF has its own "vaporiser", are you stating that as a fact? I am happy to be corrected and learn, for I am learning every day, but my the VAG self study guide on DPF systems concurs with the following published information by David Bodily VW Technical Support Specialist - "Specific measures are taken by the engine ECU to raise the exhaust temperature to above 600°c, these include switching off the exhaust gas recirculation and increasing the fuel injection period to include a small injection after the main injection" Commonly known as "post combustion" injection and carried out by the cylinder injectors and not a dedicated DPF injector or vaporiser.

Thats not what I questioned. Do you really belive that the DPF has its own fuel injector?

Do you really believe that?

Thats just as well, it could have been embarassing searching for a second hand "licking but" on the best

Nice job, is that filled & sprayed or PDR? Am guessing the latter for under an hours work.

I never cease to be amazed by peoples willingless to pay far more than retail price plus delivery for parts from Superskoda. Mine was the black grille which is more expensive than the chrome one shown there (go figure!) and cost me £57.93 from TPS with 8% discount which was given right off the bat without ever being asked for. Retail price £62.97. Delivered to my door from their van the day after the order. Part number for the OP (black grille) is 5L085366B9B9

Where you feel resistance.

I dont think that you need to measure the current, the charging voltage will give you everything that you need. 13.1-13.5 after the initial replacement of the start up current drawn does not sound too bad to me, perhaps a little early but would not result in a discharged battery. Let us know what the voltage is one hour after stopping from a journey like that and what it is the following morning before waking anything up. I have a voltmeter but have to look down to the centre console to survey it, I dont have battery problems at present so am not constantly watching it, after a start it will be at 14.4v while driving and will then drop some, how much and fater how long I'm not sure but it will definitely drop to 13.1v after say a 15 mile journey, perhaps a long time before that. It will be at 12.9v on shut off, dropping to say 12.7/12.6 an hour later, the next morning it could be at 12.4/12.3 (the battery has once been overdischarged so is not 100%) and that may drop to 12.2v after a few days of non use and then remains there for as long as I leave it which is never more than a week, it will of course continue to fall if I were not to drive it, IIRC when I tested the parasitic consumption was 22ma but now I have to add the current for the voltmeter or to switch it off. Mine is non stop/start and standard alternator charging system.

TBH its so long ago and my brain has since atrophied, you remember the basics, the principles, the fundamentals, things what cannot change but the terminology, units, equations etc fade away. Use it or lose it.................... The important thing is that thanks to you and others I now understand how they do it and having used quick-racks for years it looks very desirable especially when combined with a variable assistance electric recirculating ballscrew steering rack. Keeping a straight trajectory on a motorway with an 1.75 turns lock to lock quick rack and pointy rose jointed race suspension requires very fine fingertip manipulation, when you have to react very quickly to an obstacle, an oncoming vehicle in the wrong lane etc you need muscles like Popeye to initially turn the steering wheel double quick, the variable ratio rack with assistance would be superb under those conditions, not as fast to react as the 1.75 ratio rack with Popeye at the wheel but faster for anyone else.

I had already editted my previous posting adding that that diagram helped the penny drop & also thanked you. Yes variable ratio, but the modular pitch (rolling distance) remains constant, the gearing terms were misused in the earlier examples

Not missing any theory, you have to learn and understand the basics like a gear tooth will not mesh with another of a different modular pitch be it a pinion gear or a rack (a straightened out pinion) in order to work with, specify and design geared systems. It is not hard to tell what this is about, I wish to understand, others have no problems in helping me do so in a civil manner. The above diagram helped the penny to drop.

I am curently looking through the links on Langers reply but the above is contrary to basic gear design, a rack is effectively a meshing gear stretched out lengthwise, it has to have the same pitch to mesh. The first link is unfortunately machine translated from another language, if the rack was not straight (which it is) or if the teeth on the outer sections form a slow spiral meaning the rack must rotate around the pinion then I can conceptualise that the ratio would change, the tooth pitch would remain the same, it has to, its a fundamental of gear design but with a spiral cut rack that can rotate the longitudinal displacement could be variable, the number of teeth per linear inch of rack (measured in a straight line & not the spiral) could therefore differ but the pitch has to remain the same.

Its a genuine question, I am a mechanical engineer, worked as a designer until my 30's often using gearing and I have not heard of a variable pitch rack & pinion but I have been out of the game for quite a while although had always kept up with vehicle engineering as a race car constructor, again now a few years out of date. Variable steering geometry yes, variable steering assistance yes.

Apparently someone has a good line in bullsh1t, a service receptionist at Kwik-Fit or a main dealer by any chance?