J.R.

You could drain all the oil out of the Haldex and it would not come to any harm, it would not function but would not be harmed. Some people frequently get holes mixed up, there may be laws against it when it comes to anatomy but they can still indulge themselves in the workshop, drain the diff oil out and in most reported cases it has gone bang after a few days/200 miles without warning.

Definitely because they will not have removed the pump to clean the filter that does not exist on their planet.

R.T.F.M.

That has to be one of the best ever examples of "seeing the bigger picture"

Thanks for the confirmations.

I am replying nonetheless. I did not suggest, clearly or otherwise that you were lying, you chose to interpret my words in that way. I did say that you had an attitude which your subsequent responses confirm.

I did not state any facts, I said that to my knowledge its been standard for 20+ years, I did check my knowledge within the limits of my knowledge before posting Its called reflection. I may have been ignorant about yout two Skodas lacking the feature but I was not wrong about your attitude that you continue to display very clearly. Anyone else have a Skoda without the feature?

Are Kwik-Fit on the right idea? By probability they must eventually get something right one day but not if it benefits the customers wallet they wont. I am with TMB. And in this instance they are talking out of their backsides not that I had to read what they said but I did check anyway.

In this instance given the attitude displayed I wont be apologising for stating what was my knowledge and experience, something that I am unaware of is not obvious to me. They havn't confirmed that they dont have the rotary delay control switch, does anyone else have a Skoda from the last 2 decades without time delay adjustment on the intermittent wipe function?

Understood, I will change the signature to Yeti Outdoor and add some punctuation

Me neither, 3 people have posted a desire to change the display & they all have spoken of their Maxidot displays, 2 of them adding photographs of it. I have a Maxidot display.

Its not an option, to my knowledge its been standard on all Skodas for at least 20 years, Are you saying that you dont have the rotary control marked "A" in the diagram? If you have auto-wipers with the sensor behind the rear view mirror it adjusts the sensitivity to rainfall and not the delay although I think it reverts to delay if the auto wipe function is switched off.

Will it let you go back and record services that you "ahem" forgot to record before? Do you have to fork out €7 each time you update the service record?

I get the odd bit of straw getting into the car and maybe the drivers seat being dirty but how the hell did the rest of the seats get like that? Did they get the horses to back into the car to wipe their ar5es?

Presumably beyond my competence and equipment?

Is there anyway to enable this but for kms to be displayed? I have a RHD car & drive in France, the speedo does not have km/h markings but the speed does show amongst the other data on the maxidot display, the trouble is that its not really prominent enough and with my compromised vision I find it hard to read the small digits especially at night. Of course there is no way that I would be able to read any secondary km/h markings were the speedo to have them

If you garage had anything other than a £15 Ebay OBDII code reader then they would know definitively if one or more glowplugs were outside of limits, find someone with VCDS, it will be much cheaper and painless than relying on the guesses of a garage.

My engine was shaking and rattling on shutdown which gave me a feeling of dread thinking it was DMF failure however there were no symptoms when driving even if accelerating from 800rpm in 6th gear, I decided to remove the motorised throttle valve for cleaning having read that it could cause this problem if the carbon build up prevented it from closing properly. I was surprised by how clagged up it was, I thought I had left decokes behind me decades ago but it has had the emissions fix so spends too much time ingesting its exhaust gases. It was purely a soot build up and there appeared to be no trace of oil in the turbo pipework, the venturi was restricted, the throttle plate elliptical instead of flat and there was a lot more crud downstream in the inlet manifold which I removed as best I could - tip, stuff a rag in the open air pipe from the intercooler to stop the crud or anything else dropping down there to be ingested later. I also removed the EGR inlet boss & shroud as that too was covered in clag, the open end of the shroud faces upstream towards the throttle valve & opposing the incoming airflow which seemed odd to me, I was tempted to reverse it (it would fit in either direction) but wondered if it was for mixing purposes, the way its aimed you would think they wanted it to clag up the throttle valve. What is the correct orientation of the EGR inlet boss/shroud? There is no EGR valve so I deduce that the throttle valve closes to allow EGR in varying amounts, I am tempted to fit a reducing plate (I have one left over) with a metering hole drilled into it to reduce to a minimum the EGR gases, does this throw up a fault code like on my PD Octavia and if so is there a minimum hole size? Is there in fact any monitoring of the airflow upstream of the throttle valve? - There is nothing on the EGR pipe. Finally the clonky shutdown seems to be resolved and the car seems much better to drive, better low revs/light throttle flexibility and more power on full throttle, it had always seemed gutless before and now it seems to have its 108hp and more, it might be a placebo effect but if the MPG improves then I can be sure. A very worthwhile job for anyone with the same EGR system to tackle, mine only had 80K miles.

My rear wiper has recently been groaning and giving up after a couple of sweeps but always seemed to come back to life later. I had seen a thread with photos of where the cover was removed and the gears etc greased but cant find it now. Mine was a bit dry but after an initial greasing and refit then a more thorough strip down and lube the motor was still labouring when the blade was in contact with the screen. I bit the bullet and removed the motor assembly and worm drive then removed the rear cap and lubricated both ends of the motor shaft, reassembled, bench tested with 12v direct to motor and its as good as new now. In hindsight the motor probably does not need to be removed, the shaft behind the worm drive can be lubricated from inside the gear case leaving just the motor end cap to be removed, unusually the brushes are at the output end so its safe to remove the end cover and nothing will go flying about, the bushing was dry and causing the seizing, another possibility is grease getting onto the circular tracks for the self park mecahnism creating resistance so its worth cleaning them up and the 2 contacts. The circuit board can be removed allowing direct access to the motor terminals for bench testing. Had I not wasted time on the first 2 removals & refits then the whole job would only have taken 20-30 minutes, definitely worth doing before shelling out £80 or so for a new or second hand motor.

Can I retrofit cruise control to my 2015 2.0 TDi Yeti using this and coding with VCDS? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-Yeti-Indicator-Stalk-Switch-With-Cruise-Control-5K0953513M-New/183714477061?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AYeti|Cars+Year%3A2016&epid=7029972553&hash=item2ac63c7405:g:99oAAOSwCV5cfUQ1 Its a poverty spec model but has the MFD and steering wheel controls. Secondary question, do all Yetis including the base model have steering wheel controls and Bluetooth fitted as standard?

With the engine not running and the vacuum bled away with a couple of pumps of the pedal I have a rock solid pedal and I can stand on it with great force and it will not sink at all no matter how long I maintain the force. If I then start the engine as the vacuum builds up the pedal sinks a little as it should once the servo assistance cuts in but if I maintain the pressure then the pedal will gradually sink to a point not on the floor but just above where it becomes spongy but will not go down any further, its about 75% of the reserve travel that it sinks. If it sank to the floor and also did it with the engine running I would know its the master cylinder seals but this has me confused, is it a characteristic of the ABS system perhaps? Its not noticeable when driving because you are never braking that long before coming to a stop, I do not notice it if I am holding the car on the brakes at a junction so think it needs more than the pressure required just to hold the vehicle steady, perhaps more pressure than normal braking. Its the same sort of feeling you get in a full blown ABS stop without the modulating, the pedal sinks in the same way but slower. Any ideas? Does yours do this as well? I replaced the fluid today and bled through the whole system but wont start the car to test the brakes till tomorrow as I am monitoring the battery drain.