J.R.

"Laden" presumably. I try to set my towball height so that its a little too high for the trailer but that once the vehicle and the trailer are laden the trailer will be level. At 535mm that aint goin to happen even with a helicopter on the roof like on Top Gear. The springs I fitted were the exact same part number and supplier as the ones I chose for my Octavia2, in that instance I expected them to raise the ride height as I had chosen the ones for the "rough road market" or whatever the term was & they are the standard ones for the Octavia 4x4 which is a 2.0TDi FYI. I realise that aftermarket manufacturers will show a range of manufacturers part numbers for one spring and that it may not be exactly the same as OE, I already had experience of these springs on the Octavia and they did what I wanted of them, on the Yeti they dont appear to have raised the ride height aside from correcting the slight sag from the one with the broken end which we did not know about till removal, the clearance to the wheel arch looks the same front to rear and the rake looks correct albeit like a Tonka toy but I didn't take measurements before, that may be the next step to ask others for their wheel centre to wheelarch height or to the ground but specifying the tyre size. Thanks for all the photos, I will take one tomorrow when there is light, its clear that my towball mounting bracket is significantly higher, it looks right and I dont want to spoil the look with a drop plate so will probably raise the towhitch on my trailer again, it was the right height for most towbars when I built it 35 years ago but they probably weren't concerned about EU regulation heights back then like the Fred in a Sheds who made the Yeti towbar

Then your question about engine size is irrelevant No, I spent a lot of time and research to deliberately choose the wrong ones. Incorrect, they are identical end for end, both the ones removed (aside from the broken piece) and the new Lesjofors springs and I also tried the locating cup on both ends to be sure. I had already done that before taking the measurement and the ride height had indeed settled, just checked again having done about 300kms and its still at 535mm Show me the law, not just someones opinion. And the height was?

My understanding of a DSG gearbox is that they are a preselect gearbox like the Daimlers used to have with twin layshafts, if you are in second gear the clutch for that layshaft is engaged and the other layshaft is free rotating, the brains will preselect either third or first gear on that shaft in anticipation (whether you are accelerating or decellerating) of the next gear change, the next change being effected by releasing the clutch on the 2nd gear layshaft whilst simultaneously engagin the one on the 1st/3rd gear one. It sounds like each layshaft is driven at different speeds from the input shaft which would give different ratios to the numeric ones from the constant mesh gears rather than actually having different final drive (differential) ratios. Cant wait to rebuild one one day, I have a penchant for gearboxes but have yet to get my hands on one.

Where exactly are you feeling when you say the engine is cool to the touch?

I have to count myself very lucky that my compressor that failed I kept for spares, it was I believe a Sanden SX16, I then bought a Chinese one using the VAG part number, it looked identical, this failed very quickly & through the usual Chinese reluctance with warranty, having to send the old one back I did perhaps an even stupider thing of ordering another. When it arrived before degassing I had a good look & discovered that I could simply fit the drive hub from the new Chinese one to the old one so I chose to do that to not waste my R134a gas. That too failed within a couple of months, was the shaft damaged from spinning? Was it always like that? Were the Chinese alloy hubs not up to it? I really didn't know but was selling the car. So I salvaged the original VAG drive hub/shear plate & fitted that (glad I had kept the old compressor) and threw away the old junk compressor, it lasted long enough to sell and maybe it will last for ever, who knows. In the meantime my luck was still with me as my Yeti uses the same pump, so I ordered the hub/shear plate I linked to from Ebay & will fit it to the second unused Chinese compressor and keep it as a spare, I have not seen the part yet as dont want to do 2 by 2 weeks or quarantine to visit my UK house. I think we can conclude that there are multiple OE compressor manufacturers all supplying interchangeable units to VAG under the same VAG part number but being of completely different intenal construction, the Chinese seem to have copied the Sanden one which is probably made there anyway.

Good to know if ever the need arises.

Air not likely to enter the system via the slave cylinder, its under positive pressure, if it did then fluid would be leaking out and obvious on a visible inspection. The discolouration spoken of will have been the seals breaking down before subsequently leaking. I had a slave cylinder leak on my MK1 Octavia (the same external cylinder) which would cause the clutch to drag if you held the pedal down more than a few seconds and would leak away the fluid, not good as it shared the reservoir with the brakes, caused by either the seal being missing or damaged by the robber incompetent French garagiste who held me to ransom on a clutch & DPF replacement, terminal failure in my first week here, no tools, no roof over my head and the only time in my life a garage has worked on my car. The leakage was visible and maybe some clip was missing or damaged because all it needed to seal was for the pipe to be pushed with no effort a little further into engagement in the cylinder, probably an O ring seal. As a bodge to keep me running I pushed it in and encased the joint with epoxy putty from my backpack emergency & survival stuff & it never leaked again in 14 years.

I had several Minis of that age, all poor cold starters, everyone was transformed by changing the solenoid for one with the extra contact and using a ballast resistor & compatible coil, they would all start in 1/4 of a turn after that.

Harvest Gold and all the other colours of its ilk in those days were known collectively in the trade as "Spewdupon"

If women have less accidents than men (which I truly believe) but men are only implicated in slightly less than 30% of accidents then the transgenders must be responsible for at least 41% of accidents and should pay more for their car insurance. Or are those accidents caused by aliens or driverless cars?

Interestingly whilst that shear plate is a different construction to the one in my link which fits my two compressors both of their part numbers are listed in the advert for the other shear plate so I believe that they might be interchangeable. Or perhaps the complete Delphi and Sanden compressors are interchangeable and carry the same VAG part numbers but the individual parts are different. I think my hub would fit with minimal adaption unless they use different splines, it is of a lighter construction which is an advantage because there is less inertia and its the constantly reversing acceleration/deceleration forces that can destroy couplings like this. Looking at the mass of that one and reading of the rivets becoming loose I can easily believe that they could fail when the compressor is in perfect working order.

Mine didn't, well until I looked at it it didn't I even bought my last Octavia believing the sellers (a retired couple who genuinely did believe what their garage had told them) that it was a 2.0 TDi and hence would have been a 140hp 6 speed, only went for a very short test drive, paid and on driving home thought it felt underpowered and it just wouldn't go into 6th gear....................... I should by now know to look at the gearknob 🙄

Me too.

Editted, yours looks like the Delphi compressor as that looks more like a bolt than a nut. You should be able to read the identification label with the VAG part number from underneath or with a mirror on a stick to confirm the compressor. I have the same Sanden PX16 units on my Yeti and the now sold Octavia 2

The coupling I linked to is for the Sanden PX16 compressor, no puller is needed, the centre bolt needs removing which will be a challenge with it rotating freely, take your time & think it through, I bent the shaft on my MK1 Octavia replacing the E/M clutch assembly and was without AC for 10 years before fitting a second hand compressor. Once the centre nut is removed then the coupling is held on by 3 torx screws. If access is too tight its only 3 bolts to release the compressor and move it on the flexible hoses to a better position and not hard to do, if you do it in situ you dont even need to remove the aux drive belt.

Bumper removal is a work up & not a 10 second job, headlights probably have to come out, inner bumper beam is a piece of pi55 and then the condensor will only be hanging on by its connections as will the radiator, intercooler and fans. It looks like major heart surgery by that time.

They wont turn on until the high side pressure reaches a threshold which from observation of my guage set is 150-200 psi, (this is probably temperature dependant) if the system has low pressure but not low enough to shut the system down the fans will not kick in. When regassing the fans kicking in is the first indication (on a clutchless compressor system) that the system is starting to regrigerate correctly.

Any men going to own up to writing off vehicles after their idiot years once they became married? All the single girls that I have ever known that dont have a man to moan at and clear up after all their actions never seem to crash their cars, sieze engines through running out of oil or driving without coolant, ignore flat tyres and MIL lamps, only complain about the brakes when the both the pad material and the metal carrier have all worn through and the piston is contacting the disc, or get into debt and come begging for money. Just saying................. The last one is an outright lie though

Remove bumper & crash bar,disconnect, unbolt & remove condensor. Same amount of words as your question

Very tempting but I shall resist the bait

A pal of mine bought his wife a Lada after she wrecked so many of their vehicles, eventually he resolved the recurring problem by divorce, cars dont crash themselves.

And what is the purpose of said feature? I could understand the need if there were no strings, does it perhaps allow it to be lifted further up for more access?

Its usually the contacts within the stalk selector switch that need cleaning.

Have you bought VCDS now Mike? My Mk2 which incidentally went to a very appreciative new owner yesterday, always had an error from the instrument cluster controller saying it was faulty, cant recall the text & all the scans went to the new owner, definitely something terminal sounding rather than "incorrect coding" yet everything always functioned on it as it should, I have read somewhere about firmware conflicts and a reflash or something being needed to remove the error message but I think in general it was simply recommended to ignore it and live with it.

Half the price here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COMPONENTS-OF-THE-COMPRESSOR-AIR-CONDITIONING-COMPRESSOR-THERMOTEC-KTT020055/293204553912?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649