J.R.

Result!

Very difficult to spin up front wheels with disc brakes, driveshafts & in the case of the RH wheel turning the propshaft as well. My way of deducing if a wheel bearing is making the noise is on a wide road without other steer to the other side so the weight transfer puts more load on the bearing, if it gets noisier then its failing, alternatively steer the other way to see if it becomes quieter.

The underground car park problem is not going to happen unless you are both lazy and unattentive. A single press on the remote unlocks the boot as usual but does not unlatch it, you have to use the handle as normal, a long press will open it automatically, I only ever use the function when its needed as described above and would know not to do so with an obstruction overhead, someone that uses it all the time through laziness could make a mistake.

I did it on my Octavia estate using die springs, I bought a packet of 10 for around £10, they cost buttons. It works really well and is a great convenience when carrying bulky/heavy items to load. Your gas struts need to be in good condition for them to work. I think they have an easier job on the hatchback to the estate but may have got that backwards.

Mine didn't come with a carry case - the tight arses! 🙁 Didn't get a CD either.

Set up a Gofundme page first, no end of gullible believers out there.

Check if the fans are working, if not then preferably get a VCDS scan or if not get someone to measure the low side pressure with an A/C manifold set, if pressure below the threshold but not zero then its a recharge you need, if zero pressure then you have to find the leak, common suspects are the drier tube if its integrated into the compressor or the high side pressure sensor (G65?) and if you are lucky you will see signs of leakage and/or the sensor body split from corrosion. both are easy DIY jobs. Before playing parts bingo with the compressor just because someone on a forum says its likely to be that get a VCDS hooked up and look for the A/C shut down code if present, this will tell you if its not wrking due to the failure of another sensor, low system pressure, fan failure etc. If no shut down code then its likely to be the A/C modulating valve at the rear of the compressor N something or other, cant recall the code, another easy DIY job, cheap to replace, much cheaper than a compressor but it will cost you a recharge to see if it has worked or not, I have had at least one faulty one from E-bay and paying more does not guarantee better qulaity or that it will work, I bench test them first now. Finally a compressor replacement is another easy DIY job or at least it is to me but will again cost you a recharge. If replacing the valve or compressor if the system has pressure then get a garage to vacuum off the refrigerant, they will probably do it FOC if you agree to have them do the recharge because then they will be selling your refrigerant back to you

Unless you actually put the thing to the test then the range shown can only be used as a comparator, everytime I have fuelled up any of my diesel Skodas for the last 15 years they have shown a range that looks achievable until you get to about 1/4 of a tank and then it plummets away. I know that the battery life indicators on computers, smartphones, tablettes, smar****ches etc all behave in the same manner, I think even when they dont want to inflate the figures its very difficult to compute battery autonomy from the cell voltage, at least with fuel guages these days they are very accurate but the deception of what is indicated in terms of range or tank level continues.

The mounting bracket on my Yeti is so close to the bumper that I have to use a wedge to push the plastic lower panel back to even get the towball mounting nuts in place and I had to drill clearance holes for the projecting threads of the bolts. It is however very neat when installed, not invisible like a retractable one but far better than a swan neck and I am unlikely to bark my shin against it. I will however have to be very carefull while coupling as I left off the protection plate, it looks naff on such a close fitting set up. I have a reversing camera which I will use for coupling, I also use a bungee cord between the tailgate lock loop and the dogbone pull which holds the tailgate open at just the right angle to help me reversing the trailer, the overhang is so short on the Yeti that by the time I see my good trailer drifting out in either door mirror its already too late to correct, the Octavias had no such problem but once towing forwards the short overhang is a real benefit.

Thanks, confirmed what I thought, I was concerned that maybe something more needed to be done electrical or ECU wise. I have a simple bypass relay that takes a miniscule triggering current from the lighting circuits to trigger the individual relays, it does not affect the bulb sensing circuits, its the first one that I have ever had since the 80's that has a decent audible warning, discreet but loud enough to be heard, that doesnt change its frequency or sound like a strangled cat or need sensing coils moved apart, all the others either didn't work repeatably or sounded awful and needed silencing. The downside, and its an important negative point is that the module draws current at all times and will reduce the vehicles standby battery life. One day I will find out how the OE system senses the simple N/O contact or linked terminals to know when a towing plug is inserted and what reprogramming is required to enable said function, I am hoping it can be done without a seperate canbus controller, then I will get it all working and benefit from the features like fog light isolation and the stability systems, I dont have reversing sensors to be concerned about.

It certainly sounds like a slipping clutch, its just a worn clutch would not normally manifest itself in the manner you describe. I am reluctant to describe my sure method of testing a clutch for efficiency because it puts a lot of load on it and if done incorrectly and without instant reactions, all of which are only learned by experience it will increase the wear.

It's basic mechanical nouse which comes with experience but also becomes lost with absence of frequently working on vehicles and age. I really felt inadequate when I snapped a bolt trying to remove it a couple of years back, it may have been weak, it may have been corroded, I may have had to load it to the point where it would snap but in the past I would always have sensed the initial yield when it reached its elastic limit and backed off, you have to keep your hand in yet with ultra reliable cars we dont get the opportunities that we once had.

Reversing sensors are only activated when reverse gear is selected, they are ultrasonic and dont require movement of the vehicle relative to an obstruction as has been suggested. The towbar alone will not set them off, a coupled trailer will when reversing at an angle and probably even in a straight line. You are probably used to ignoring them when reversing in certain circumstances anyway.

Could you or anyone enlighten me on what these legal requirements are as regards reprogramming the ECU, connection to the vehicles electronic systems etc please?

You didn't, it was Langers2K 🥴 You are both such helpfull contributors that I get confused between you both!

Sounds more like sticky hydraulics, a failing clutch will always manifest itself in the highest gears first on full throttle at peak torque. It might also be a contamination problem and the heat from you slipping the clutch on a hill start is causing the problem, try using a few less revs and getting your foot off the pedal as soon as you can. Maybe get a second opinion?

Thanks for that Wino, my memory playing tricks again. I have replaced them on both my MK1 and MK2 Octavias, the MK1 a decade ago but the MK2 was at the end of 2018 so its annoying that it should be the former that I recall. Nonethless its probable that if the OP needs to gain some more travel that disconnecting the shock absorber lower mounting will allow the hub to be further lowered as it acts as the rebound travel stop. I have the job to do for my neighbour very soon so the video was welcomed.

It was put into law after many delays to allow the BIL to actually produce the things, he never actually managed and the Chinese took the market, at that point the fine was reduced to zero So it is still the law but with no penalty, the French are never very well up on these things, they just do as they are told.

You still have the shock absorber connected. In fact when I have replaced mine I have not needed to disconnect the wishbone, just the shocker in order to lower the wishbone enough to remove the spring like in this video: Your set up does look different, it should be the easiest job in the world.

Its definitely a different and much more expensive gas than the already very expensive R134a, the equipment to recover and regas with it is also very expensive at present. Whether it actually loses pressure quicker or even at all or whether its just upselling to recoup their capital investment or just plain rip off remains to be seen. Its certainly true that many decent vehicles can go 7, 10 or even 13 years on R134a without a recharge but they will have lost some charge. I also think that the move in recent years to minimise the refrigerant weight means that recharge intervals will be shorter. My Skodas have all been 525 grammes, I recharged a 2006 Volvo recently and think that the system capacity was 1kg, it was its first ever recharge, system no longer cooling, clutch not engaging but it still had some charge, the clutch and fans cut in after very little gas had gone in. I had not vacuumed it down and it was a hot day so the fill rate was very slow until the system started pumping and the low side pressure dropped.

I should be flattered, out of 4299 reactions he has only given 16 "not helpfull" red down arrows and I have received most of them. I just have no idea why other than that I fitted my own towbar. Nowt so queer as folk!

Et le voila!!!!!!

All the comments about peoples vehicles will have been for R134a refrigerant, the OP will have the newer and much more expensive R1234yf refrigerant. If the aircon is still cooling properly then I would do nothing, the dealer is upselling. With the new gas there is a potential for it to become contaminated by air being drawn into the system, this is because during a prolonged rest period at European non summer temperatures the gas can liquify and the system pressure drop below atmospheric pressure, air will then be pushed into the system if the service port caps are not in place, have not been fully tightened or the seals are missing/damaged. Contaminated gas cannot be reused and the gas is hugely expensive, its a great opportunity for the dealers if they have invested in the necessary equipment and they will want a return on that investment. Once a year or so of "servicing" has been done on the first R1234yf equipped vehicles if they find that the refrigerants drawn out under vacuum are contaminated it will quickly become a necessary service requirement making them loadsamoney.

It does when you have a puncture Which is actually very important if you are fully loaded when you have to change the wheel and continue on a journey.

I believe (and it was hard for me to accept) that the chrome finish on the grille outer and other plastic trim pieces is acually real chrome deposited over some magic copper coating. So the preparation should be that of painting over a chromed bumper etc which is never successfull in the long term. I am hoping that the 2K clear coat on mine will add protection but its such a small item that touching in stone chips should not cause too much grief.