J.R.

Its not the end of the world to change the time manually like the rest of us have been doing since forever. I dont trust the automatic time changes, my Garmin runners watch does it but seemingly only when set to record an activity where the GPS is switched on like running otherwise there would be no battery life. So that was a dissapointment, I thought it would happen automatically but I have to manually force it by switching to run or cycle mode once I have reached the UK or France and that is just the beginning of the problems. It will randomly switch back to the previous CET time zone usually in the middle of the night, I think the GPS must switch on occasionally every few hours to check that you are still in the country and during the night in my bedroom the GPS signal is probably blocked.

All the more reason to grab the £300 loss deal before they change their mind. There are faults on the system and mant repaired vehicles get sold into the trade and appear on dealers forecourts withhout anything showing up on their HPI and other checks. Its quite possible that the marker did not appear until it was registered in the OP's name but its definitely a good strategy to make the assertion, they should have a copy of all the documentation, if it was there then you are now in the driving seat.

I can get that after a 200 mile driving like I stole it if I reset the fuel computer before driving a mile down the hill on a closed throttle. As someone who has been obsessed with fuel economy for 15 years and has had some remarkable results and can drive so repeatedly that the difference in elevation at the turnaround point from the start can be seen in the return drive figures you will forgive me for being somewhat sceptical of your claim. Also having compared the maxidot figures with tank to tank figures over 15 years and having to recalibrate via VCDS by 9% on the last 2 Skodas (too early to be sure on the current one but its around 6% overoptimistic) I am sceptical of most photographs from the maxidot but yours does not show how many miles were travelled for the 90mpg displayed.

My 6 speed manual has an indicator on the MFD that tells you when to change up, it bugs the hell out of me because its either telling me to change up whereas I know the road conditions ahead of me dictate otherwise (OK it cant see what I can) or when i am driving economically in town it wants me to change down whereas to maintain the 50km/h I would not do so unless I wanted to accelerate quickly. So I thought that i would replicate your videos by driving off from my place up the slight hill in super economy mode, I usually change up around 1600 rpm if not before and certainly when I reach the higher gears in a 50, 60, or 70 km/h limit, this time I just let the revs rise and did not change until the vehicles ECU computation told me so. In 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear it told me to shift up at 1600 rpm, which on the light throttle opening was later than I would have done but a mile away from 2700 rpm. I would have to drive that in manual mode, sounds like they screwed up the mapping for your market without the DPF and all the other rubbish. I must look again at the video to see if clutch slip is evident.

Whoever is the cheapest on Ebay at the time, this time it was this company but a listing in French on Ebay.fr for a little bit more but including delivery so a good deal for me. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferodo-FDB1398-Brake-Pad-Set-Front-Axle-Premier-Car-Replaces-1J0-698-151F/362225855655?hash=item545657eca7:g:QOoAAOSwokJabb8y There was a cheaper offer on E-bay but they had not filled out the part specifying the details ie Make - Ferodo, reference FDB1398 so whilst it was the title they may have supplied something else, I did not like the way they wrote their conditions either, sounded like cynical sharks. These have cost me twice the price of pattern pads, last time not a lot more but given I want to throw away the existing ones that have little wear I would not pay to replace them with the same.

Definitely does not look right in the first video, you are accelerating very slowly to only 25km/h and are even overtaken by a moped yet its really hanging on to the lower gears, at higher speeds, large throttle opening, steep hill I could understand it holding onto the higher gears but not as it does with 1st & 2nd gears in the video.

You lost your negotiating position when you allowed them to take the vehicle away. Hopefully the offer will be what you wanted, having bought it so soon before should prevent them from being too silly.

I would snatch their hand off to get back all my money less £300 after 3 or 4 months. No harm in asking for a full refund but dont play such hardball that they withdraw what was in my view a generous offer. It may well not have shown up on an HPI check and they will have kept a copy, if it was clear then they are also in the clear. As she is considering changing it then all the more reason to take the offer, she wont be able to P/X it with its history, didn't the V5 have the marker on it?

All they can do is to fool the ECU into throwing more fuel into the engine, a little bit more power for sure but a richer mixture at all throttle openings aint going to do the fuel consumption or the DPF life any favours at all. All they do is increase injector duration and/or raise the fuel rail pressure.

For reassuring nip when braking.................................................... I had replaced the discs & pads on my Octavia 2 with ones from Autodoc, the pad box labelling looked very Germanic but they were made in PRC, it was only when I drove my neighbours one that I realised how much more reassuring his brakes were with the initial bite, I had to adjust my braking reflexes. I changed mine to Ferodo Eco Friction and they were much better. Fast forward to my Yeti, I replaced the discs all round as they were rusted but re-used the pads as they were virtually new and I hoped they might have been main dealer supplied and would bite as well as those on my neighbours car when bedded in to the new discs, they never did, the brakes are OK, the ABS will work etc but take a lot of initial pressure and dont feel progressive. I brought the Octavia back to France after leaving it in the UK during the confinement and immediately noticed how much better the brakes are on the initial bite. I have ordered Ferodo Eco Friction pads again and hope they will work their magic again, they cost very little more than pattern part pads & I will always use them now, on the fronts at the very least.

Very probable, almost everything else is ar5e over elbow, did my head in trying to get my head around the torsion values for cam timing.

Cylinder 1 is always the one closest to the crankshaft pulley and furthest from the flywheel. It got a bit confusing with the 1960's FWD Triumph 1300 but still remained true.

Only those that cannot think for themselves. So you are probably correct

Before contorting myself to remove something which may not actually be the problem I would use VCDS, go into measuring blocks and read what the compressor shut down code is.

Kudos to you MicMac, you were dead right in your diagnosis.

Easy to modify a scrapyard one from an Octavia 1 where most specs had them as standard, the boot widths seem to be very constant across Skodas, I have modified MK 1 ones to fit a MK2 and a Yeti. Basic DIY & carpentry skills needed, nothing more. On another thread there is discussion on boot volumes, I suspect the variofloors are always an option now so as to quote a larger boot volume which people use to compare vehicles.

The 3 dished mountings will have fractured, its taken them 2 decades of continuous research to finally come up with a steel able to be made thin and brittle enough to hold together for the warranty period before self destructing, previous attempts were not so successfull and some made it to quite high mileages and even failed through corrosion €10 or so will get you another tin foil like chocolate teapot, remove caliper & disc & then the 3 mounting screws to remove the remains of the old one & refit the new. Check the others carefully, they will go the same way.

Never a good idea to switch on a return line. If pulling the fuse gives you the result that you want then that is the line that should be switched, I would simply use a relay and then there is nothing to do and you would not know it was fitted. Did it have any effect on your radio like losing presets, longer boot up time etc?

Yeti rear seats are simply clever. Measurement taken in forward position.

The Yeti is that size, they are losing the plot.

Many of these tuning boxes are no more than a resistor (or several with a selector switch) to fool the ecu into thinking that the fuel rail pressure and/or the coolant temperature is less than it really is, the ECU overfuels to compensate, richer mixture = more power but good luck with the consequences to the O2 sensor, DPF etc etc. Nice work if you can get it and it's beginning to sound like pyramid selling as well now!

Layshaft bearings, expect that its present in 3rd and 5th gears also but inaudible at present.

Why the groan?

I would any day of the week!!!!! The epiphany for me was taking a risk on a 3 year old Octavia MK1 with 188000 miles for a littme more than nothing but cheap enough that if I had to throw it away after a year I would not be crying into my beer. It turned out to be the best investment that I have ever made, I had 13 trouble free years and put another 137k miles on it and even then would not have needed to scrap it had I invested in VCDS, it was so reliable that I never had to. It never left me stranded and the repairs I did were only ever £10 or £20, I never needed to replace any suspension bushes, I bought rear wishbone bushes with the intention of fitting them believing them to be a known fault but never needed to, I did replace the springs & shocks from a crashed Police car because they were heavier duty and I used the estate as a van and towed a lot. My depreciation costs over any 3 year period would have been £850, if I included servicing, repairs tyres & friction materials still less than £1000. There is also the cashflow side of it, the depreciation is only a cost and a financial hit when the vehicle is sold or in my case scrapped, my actual ougoings were £150 per annum or £12.50 (actually a lot less because I always used part worn tyres) whereas on a lease the £388 would have to be paid every month. Is there not also an initial payment that is lost? Editted, good point re drivers seat, I removed the foam from the squab of a low mileage car at the breakers yard and also at some stage replaced the steering wheel (dead cheap without the airbag).

I'm not convinced that it would even work. Its my understanding that its not the radio itself that draws the standby current that flattens the battery but the canbus remaining awake and not going into sleep mode because it does not get the correct handshake or sign off from the replacement radio. I may be wrong, others will confirm. I changed my Canbus gateway & it cost £20 ish for the correct revision number, during the standby current testing I found that my trailer electrics relay module had a significant standby current consumption, perhaps half that of the radio or Canbus, leter units consume less, the one I bought for the Yeti 50% less but I have now used on/off switches on both of them.