J.R.

I have been thinking along the same lines but I think the plug and socket would need more terminals as I am surmising that there are some comms going backwards and forwards presumably to cut the power when battery is charged or in a fault condition, or when a desired level of charge is attained. But then again they cannot exist on a Granny cable, perhaps someone could explain?

Nobody is demanding photgraphs of my internal connections 😛 I can do what I like here thank the Lord!

Google;fr'ing has revealed to my shock that our government has been forward thinking and pro-active regarding retrofitting ICE vehicles to EV power, I would even qualify for a €6000 subsidy, that alone answered all the questions that the revelation created, it can only be done by a licensed professional (someones Brother in Law) and the cost will be 5 or more times higher than it should be. The French have always been pigeons for spend €20K on this insulation, heat pump, solar panel, condensing boiler etc worth €4K and we will refund you €5k that you would have paid in taxes , and they never learn, its been going on for generations, its how the government keeps the economy turning. Then they take the money back because the scammers (sorry I meant licensed installers) went bankrupt before even installing hence the dossier was not signed off or they wrote the wrong number on a form or an invoice.

I'm still very tempted by a Roomster, if conversion to EV power or any modifications were allowed in my country I would have one in a heartbeat!

Isn't that exactly what you said it was doing? Maybe its only me that is finding it difficult to understand your explanation due to my not speaking English for 20 years.

That looks like you needed to stand up to see over the steering wheel, just like any of the in car footage of Richard Hammond!!!! Are the rear seats out in the fresh air behind the rear bulkhead? I cant see room for them in the cabin and you did mention about people standing up for photos, they picked a good name!

Editted, it could be that the high/low beam stalk switch has the contacts stuck together in the high beam position, does its action feel normal in use?

This is contradictory, if it was misworded and the second sentence is correct I think you should be looking at the Comfort Control Module or Body Control Module whatever it is called on your vehicle that sends power to the various lights. That is if the 2012 Fabia has the complicated system that the larger vehicles have, Breezy Pete will correct me if my assumption is wrong.

Without any comment with the posted link I assume that you consider that to be a reasonable price for a charger? I would have agreed with you until I learned it is not a charger at all I should have realised given the size of the things, look at that unit, its barely any bigger than the caravan plug!

No I was referring to the cable to the car from the Charge Point that I have now learned thanks to @Ootohere is not a charger after all, my response which I now understand was 100% wrong was to whoever it was said that voltage drop would be negligible along the length of the charging lead. My new knowledge leads to more questions than answers. Why the hell are these switching units pretending to be chargers so expensive if they dont contain a transformer? I appreciate that they have RCD protection but the regs require a 30ma one upstream of that anyway, the same protection you would be required to have in case you cut through the mains lead with your (mains powered) lawnmower. Even the Chinese ones from Ali-Express etc are a fortune for what I now realise they contain. OTOH I better understand why the manufacturers want honky-tonk thousands of pounds to replace the charging units in the vehicle if the contact pins deform and overheat, still a complete rip off but in line with their usual stupid spares price mark ups.

Not on low voltages and high currents, I am making the assumption that the charging cable delivers the battery system voltage of 24 or 48v etc and not mains voltage otherwise it would not need the charger unit. Even at mains voltage the voltage drop is very significant on a 7 or 11kva charger, I have to use a 6mm2 cable for a very short run.

I'll take that as a confirmation then! To quote you: "When I brought my new (to me Superb) I went with option B (higher mileage), but it's still way beneath lower mileage models of the same age."

My posting gives my rationale which answers your question. To expand on it a charging lead suffers volt drop, the longer it is the larger the volt drop for a given current requiring a larger section of usually copper which is very expensive and very stealable. But thanks for your answer, as I dont yet have a vehicle in mind I will terminate the supply cable in a junction box from which it can be extended to suit the vehicle I end up with.

You bought a higher mileage car with way less miles than lower mileage models of the same age? 😕

A naive question perhaps but one the forum will be able to answer. Is the charging point standardised on one side of the vehicle or another for LHD or RHD markets? Is it on the kerbside as you would park in a forward direction? Are they biased towards the front for drive up charging stations? I will be cabling soon for an EV charge station and want to put it in the best place, I hate seeing trailing cables.

Correct and even with the brake pads worn to the limit on all 4 corners the fluid would not drop to the minimum level unless it was not properly filled before. The only time I check my fluid level by removing the cap is after fitting new pads all round when I make sure it is close to the MAX line, its also the occasion to verify the correct action of the low fluid sensor.

I think the BKC is one afflicted by that stupid pointless programming. OTOH it has 2 camshaft sensors so really can start in a quarter of a turn as we say in France, OK half a turn for the BKC and during that angular rotation the ECU will have no RPM input from the crank sensor, mine would always start in half a turn even a very lazy half a turn with a flat battery but I think if it cranked any longer the nonsense software would have inhibited it from firing.

I thought it would have been retained with a circlip or tempered wire spring clip (sorry can't recall the name) and wondered whether it had been dislodged when presumably your hammering pulled out the shaft, they can usually be re-used but you should have had equal resistance to refitting the shaft, i.e. you would have needed a hide mallet or similar to get it back together, when you said it went back in with some wiggling I thought it might detach but Pete who knows far more about Fabias than I ever will was of the opinion that it would be OK.

I have already explained it, less of the name calling would be appreciated thankyou. I do know a little bit about brake discs actually, I also know a little bit about corrosion rates.

Not in 10 months and 4900 miles on this planet. Ventilated discs are not two discs, they are cast as one single piece, the ribs would take decades to corrode through even if left on a beach and washed by the salt water tide twice a day.

I have always been saying that my brake discs dont suffer in the way that others do because of either they abuse they are subjected to towing or my preventative abuse, I replaced all 4 discs on the Yeti 4 years ago when I bought it as they were beyond redemption, I have one 55K miles and from the outside they look freshly machined, I changed the rear pads last night sooner than I would have expected although for me the rears are always the most worn, both inner pads were twice as worn as the outer ones and the RH kerb side (I drive in FRance) was in a right two and eight, a touch test when the pads were removed revealed light scoring and some lost of swept area through rust on the LH disc and the same but a lot worse on the RH side exposed to the puddles and rain gutters. They definitely have not lasted as long as those on the 2 previous Octavias but due to the towing journeys I have not suffered the loss of braking efficiency and hence have not given it the maintenance "abuse" runs that they got, these new pads I am treating as sacrificial and expect to change the discs when they wear out but in the meantime my "conditioning" regime has restarted, as its only the rears I am doing it through the handbrake mostly, it will be interesting to see if the ridging goes but it cannot put back material that has rusted away.

@KarockYes indeed I read it but I totally disregarded it, for one it was the parole of a garage on the make, two on our planet brake discs do not rust to that degree in a few months (separation of the discs in a few months? You definitely inhabit a different planet), three I do not believe for one second the juddering is from rust or warped discs but from embedded friction material and the discs simply need deglazing as confirmed by: and: @Richard9352 you need to repeat the process a few times and probably up the level of abuse exponentially, I appreciate that is very hard to do for someone who like me is very gentle on the brakes but that is what causes the build up in the first place. As far back as 1982 when asbestos was removed from brake pads whenever I visited my father in Cornwall he would ask me to do my "magic" with the brakes on his new Polo again, the handbrake had a very course ratchet and he did not have the strength to pull it onto the 3rd click and it was not holding on hills, it wasn't on the 3rd click either and the brakes were always very poor but not a problem the way he drove and I now drive, I would take it for a 20 minute thrashing and return with the wheels smoking, park in gear with the handbrake off and the brakes would be superb the next day. I bought a Seat Alhambra, all four discs were scored and ridged to hell, poor stopping power and the juddering would shake my fillings loose, it was appalling and undriveable but I had no choice, I had to get my tools and materials to a job site in London each day. I was going to replace discs and pads on all 4 corners as soon as I was off the job 2 weeks later (was working every day) but each day during my commute driving like the knob head I was then the shuddering reduced, after a week it had gone and after 2 weeks all 4 discs looked like they had just been machined. You should be, they are on the make and trying to deny their responsabilities, carry on with the deglazing procedure and forget all about Small Claims Court etc unless you are up for pointless fight, you are not going to change your gentle braking and the problem will reoccur but you will then know how to mitigate it before it becomes a problem, I regularly do mine because I want the brakes to have their maximum efficiency the day I have to react to another head on with a high as a kite overtaker, the last 2 years have been OK as the brakes have been abused through very long overloaded towing journeys.

Look at the top of your suspension struts at the nut you have to undo and the threaded piston shaft with female hexagon recess that you will have to prevent from turning to do so and you will work out one of three things. 1 - What special tool will make the job possible. 2 - You dont need a special tool, you know exactly how you will do it bodging with the basic tools you already have. 3 - If 1 and 2 don't help then the job is possibly beyond your capability. I presume you have already got or bought spring compressors? Dealer prices were always stupid but your £600 made me fall of my chair, I did mine 2 years ago, new struts were £30, maybe £34 each from an Ebay seller in Ireland, pair of new top bearings and mounts IIRC £20 from a private Ebay seller who didn't use them, springs I have only ever paid around £17 each from Lesjofors, the foam bump stops were less than €2 from Autodoc. I can see how things have changed now, I was looking at rear brake discs last night, mine I replaced 4 years ago and the inner face of one is scored prematurely after 55K miles, I noticed last night while changing the prematurely worn pads, now I know why! I paid around €15 per disc last time, most are 3 or 4 times that price now and I had to look really really hard to get down to €25 each.

Certainly not torque wrench settings, there seems to be an irrational fixation with torque settings these days together with changing wheels and tyres for winter. The 2nd hardest part of the jib is getting the strut out of the steering knuckle, the hardest is getting it back in, it helps if you disconnect the driveshaft and that brings problems of its own and also the need for a 'kin big torque wrench. I suggest that you buy a steering knuckle spreader tool and a socket drive extended allen key for preventing the piston rod from rotating when undoing the strut nut, if not then special 3 lobed Vise Grips for round objects. Buy some foam bump stops as yours are probably decomposed.

Because there is only one thing you like better than blocking people, - telling them and the world you have blocked them. Maybe that isn't quite true, I suspect you enjoy unblocking people so you can publicly block them once again, maybe you are just very forgiving 😀