J.R.

I think you mean better miles = goes further on the same fuel spend rather than mpg. OK, I take that back, others seem to be converting from litres of LPG to gallons and using MPG. Makes little sense to me when the energy value of a litre of LPG will vary so wildly with pressure and hence temperature. Bottled gas is sold by the KG and I think LPG delivered to a Citerne also, I have never worked out why they chose to use litres for road fuel, maybe for people to convert to MPG. Probably to "drown the fish" as we say in France!! (muddy the waters)

According to my CT tester MK1 (ASV engine I think) had a rudimentary DPF and pointed it out, a sort of expansion box in the downpipe, whatever it actually was it certainly smelt of rotten eggs a couple of times. It did not have all the emissions guff that goes with an EU5 DPF nor block up in the 325000 miles it did.

I thought they meant Throttle Position Sensor. In any case getting to the root of a problem via an owner recounting their recollection of mechanics BS101 is usually a guessing game. I agree regarding the sticking vanes on the variable vane turbo and the remediation. I doubt that they will do that though if cleaning the throttle position sensor (were it even possible) seems too much for them on a high mileage car.

No way has that corrosion occurred over only 3 months. What was the reason for leaving it at a dealer for 3 months?

How exactly are you proposing to clean it?

Probably 90% or more owners of the MK2, the youngest versions being close to 10 years old now, the oldest 20 years.

Use your eyes! I can't see from here.

High DPF differential pressure does not correlate with a hole in the DPF matrix but the opposite.

Haldex is not very similar in any way, shape or form to a VAQ differential. Definitely the wrong use of terminology. Probably an incompetent ticking the wrong box and then a competent BS'er denying the mistake.

"Cold air" What temperature was the outside ambient air? What temperature did you have the CC set to? AFAIK you cannot turn the Climate Control off, only the AC refrigeration and drying component of it and even then it is not actually off but pumping a very slight amount of refrigerant. My non CC vehicle under certain heat settings provides much cooler ambient air from the dashboard vents compared to the footwell vents. The problem, if indeed there is one, maybe with one of the temperature sensors in the ventilator or screen ducts.

That is an oxymoron! That does not make sense, did you mean "more miles"?

Interesting video, it led me to this one about electric cars Can anyone else see the error at 1 minute 24 seconds? I wondered why Raymond Baxter was wearing a huge coat which obsructed him from getting out of the Peel until later on I noticed the electric cable trailing out of it, the car may have been battery powered but the presenter wasn't. If he can extract himself from a Peel I do not accept Graham with the big feet's claims that he cannot get into anything smaller than a Skoda Superb especially when he said he once drove a Mini, the original one that is not the obese abortion that carries the name today. * The original Mini not the original Graham* 😃

Ignore my previous post which overlapped with yours, I'm really pleased to hear they are eccentric and lockable and wish I had known of their existence when I changed my clutch. I will have to look again at your photo, perhaps I was looking at the wrong mounting point.

Having seen the photo on the other thread with the cross-member removed and no sign of the guide pins in place I think I can answer my own question, they must indeed be the latter, I have only just seen your thread asking for advice so it is too late now for me to say the number one precaution is to mark the subframe position relative to the chassis exactly on all fixing points using spray paint or whatever before removing, if not then the vehicle is likely to crab and only drive in a straight line with the steering wheel off centre and a constant force applied. Been there done that and got the T shirt, thats why I was hoping the alignment pins did what they claim "maintain the (existing) position of the subframe on reassembly. The gearbox and bevel drive box assembly is 'kin heavy isn't it!!! I hope you had a transmission jack! I lowered mine down from the engone support frame using ratchet straps. Was this the "horsey doggy" car for sale on this forum?

Do these guide pins have a moveable eccentric that can be locked in position or are they simply centring pins? If the latter like many I have seen they are the last thing one would want.

Remove the cover.

Cats are being stolen because of the high value precious metals within them, the aftermarket ones only have the very minimum of them to function initially and pass an MOT, they will not have anywhere near the lifespan of the OE fitted ones but less than a year is a bit rich if you pardon the pun. If they had anywhere near the same amount the doasyoulikeys would be raiding the motor factors stock rather than jacking up cars on peoples driveways to angle grind them off. The aftermarket catastrophic convertor on the Galaxy only passed the next MOT by some "magic" performed by my pal the MOT tester when he asked me to step outside for a couple of minutes, I outed the vehicle after that. Frankly I feel equally sorry for the garages that have to fit and guarantee them as the owners who end up with them.

I had the same rattle on mine when I screwed up the AC refill (inexperience) and hydro-locked the pump, eventually the straps came out of the domed rivets and were flailing around, I replaced the whole pulley with an old one I had but now I have what I think is bearing noise but it could also be the tandem pump. Interested to hear that Ali are selling the parts, would you mind sharing the link please?

I have used them since 2004 in France if it is road planings that you are talking about, "tout venant noir", it has lots of fines and when wackered down looks like tarmac and is very durable. I wanted to use it where I am now, its far cheaper than the white calcaire (limestone) that everyone else uses but my pal who has been in this region much longer than me says it will be untolerable during a hot summer. The other thing that has convinced me to use calcaire I discovered by accident, I wackered it down when it and the ground underneath was wet, the fines rose to the top like over-tamping very wet concrete but its given a good surface and it is nearly as hard and durable as concrete, most people use it as a sub base, dont wacker it and cover it in gravel for the crunchy sound, I have dragging the stones inside so will stick with my method.

There is no electrical, electronic or computer connection between the force the driver applies with their leg onto the brake pedal and the resultant force applied to the brake discs (or discs and drums) through the friction material up to the point where ABS cuts in during an emergency stop. The discharged batteries that only exist in your imagination can not cause grabbing brakes period. You will have to translate that for me, I do not understand.

If Lanogard is like Owatrol Oil is stops further rusting in its tracks, its very good for keeping a patina'd look, I have used it on a cast iron garden fountain once the rusting got to the level I wanted. I have 3 roulotte de chantiers (mobile site huts) for storing my stuff in before I extend my basement workshop, all 40 + years old and been outside all of that time, all were very rusted, I used rust convertors then anto-rust primers and paints, they have all rusted through again over the last few years, the only one that hasn't is the Owatrol'd one, it still looks rusty but is no worse than the day I coated it. Lanogard might protect the outside but its perforation from the rusted internal cavities you should be concerned with, Skodas made from 1998 through to 2005 were by far the best protected all over including suspension arms and subframes, my MK1 never had a spot of rust aside from the tailgate around the number plate lights which at the time they would do under the paint warranty but it still recurred for owners that availed themselves of it, that was the only area I needed to touch up other than stone chips, it went to the scrapyard after 19 years still like a new bodyshell. My MK2 Octavia and the Yeti were much worse, your Superb looks appalling.

You bought it with little or no MOT? Was it a sold as seen Trade sale? In my country it is illegal to sell a vehicle that does not have another 18 months to run on the CT (CT = MOT but every 2 years) When I say it is illegal lots of people do it every day and wont be prosecuted but the new owner will not be able to register the vehicle unless they get it CT'd, even a failure is acceptable for registration and to drive for another 3 months. The risk a seller takes selling "as seen" without a CT is that the new owner will drive it and the seller will be held responsable for any infractions committed, parking tickets, speed cameras etc.

If it does morph into a keeper then whatever you have spent is irrelevant, I share your desire to get everything right on a new car that I intend keeping, I temper that somewhat in my case with the knowledge of how it is going to be abused so for instance I did not do anything about the myriad cosmetic dents and scratches other than knowk out those I could as best I could because I knew they would be added to. I would have held the investment at the time of discovering the advanced corrosion and focussed my time and money initially on remediating that.

Snatching brakes, is there any car problem that you will not blame on computers or a low battery and publish yet another treaty on battery charging complete with utter rubbish such as below? It wasn't even true with the first Lucas alternators 50 years ago unless they were faulty, admittedly a frequent occurence, its certainly not true today when the smallest alternator you will find has a 90 amp output, a member actually plotted the charging graph after a cold start using live data with every single accessory switched on, heated rear window, heated seats etc, time to fully recharge? 45 seconds IIRC. You can drive a modern vehicle with stop start in a city with everything switched on, the engine can stop and restart every time the car moves forward in queuing traffic and numerous junctions and traffic lights and the alternator will keep up. None of which has anything to do with snatching brakes.

No there should be no movement and knocking, if they are sliding calipers then my guess is someone has removed the rubber sleeves probably when they blinged up the calipers, I hope it wasn't you!