J.R.

The answer is probably that it reacts in exactly the same way, there is no sane reason for it to know if you are towing a caravan rather than a trailer even if it were possible. On the 13 plug units I believe the socket can be wired to detect when a plug has been inserted, it pay need a plug with 2 contacts linked, some of the 7 pin sockets have a similar but very crude switching arrangement to disconnect the feed to the vehicles rear fog light when towing to avoid reflected dazzle. Any detection is most likely to be done by the bulb monitoring circuit detecting a lowered resistance on both rear lights simultaneously. Like you I am very sceptical about the marketing claims of increased safety with the manufacturers towing package but it 100% achieves its purpose of extorting money from owners judging by the evangelical responses on here, if it were a necessary and effective safety measure then not much point if it relies on crappy trailer lights or the exact same lighting board units that were rubbish 50 years ago and far worse now that they have been cheapened to the point of being completely shonky. Or relying on AI to decide whether the image from a fish eye lens smothered in road dirt is a bicycle, trailer or towed vehicle with a lighting board.

The photo shows what appears to be metal to metal contact, what more could you want to see? Or am I mistaken? Rubber to metal bonded bushes do not squeak unless mounting bolts are loose, metal to metal contact through excessive joint articulation is what squeaks.

Look at the shear plate, it sounds like it has let go. Other than that, a noisy pulley bearing or the modulating valve they are bulletproof, there really are no parts I can think of to make up a repair kit worthy of its name.

Compare the angles of the handbrake actuating levers on both calipers, are they the same and do they both freely return fully to the stops? Check the handbrake compensator it should be at 90° to both cables, if not then you have a self adjuster problem.

Why would this mythical stabilisation system that is supposed to save all your lives when towing be concerned about whether the vehicle being towed has a fridge and has it switched to 12v or is using the feed to charge an auxiliary battery like on my tipping trailer? The one that I am typing this from listening to the rain beating on the roof, yes it does! And it will not work on 12v from the massive leisure battery when switched to 12v, that power feed has to come from the towing vehicle, I am replacing fuseboards at present so there are power cuts for a couple of hours, I really would like that fridge to work off 12v even though all it does is try and usually fail to maintain the temp within, the 12v heating element is not powerful enough to reduce the temperature.

Transporting wind by air or sea for another country to generate electricity, has the world gone mad? 🥴 Maybe that is what those sail powered cargo ships are for, they can be propelled by it whilst collecting and storing it. 💡 I have heard of Food Miles, now we have Wind Miles!

My caravan has the same lights as all my trailers, exactly the same lights as the bike rack and the towing board!

I knew the mathematics, I knew the Cosine Theta error would be small on most road gradients, I also knew that anyone that speaks of anything being "spot on" or "margin of basically zero" would neither know nor understand so I was happy to leave it unexplained and them blissful. It was amusing to be told that I have issues with elementary maths though 😁

Mine was a BKC, a proper tractor! At least one of the other codes I think I recognise as the common rail engine, it was that I thought I was buying, the car was advertsised as a 2.0 TDi and not a 1.9tdi. I only test drove it for a very short distance as according to the garage report it had a broken engine block, I didn't even go through all the gears. Driving home I had difficulty selecting 6th gear which the 2.0 TDi would have, then I saw the gearknob pictogram showed 5 gears didn't stop me keep grabbing for the gear though 😁 When I got home and looked at the paperwork properly the V5 showed it as a 1.9TDi, all the garage service paperwork was written 2.0 TDi and if it were not for the advertised "ice cold AC" being non existant I would have believed the retired owners genuinely believed it was a 2.0 TDi. It was still one of the best bargain deals I have ever done though, the "broken cylinder block" was simply a broken engine mounting fixing on the alloy alternator bracket, a £20 second hand Ebay one was with me the very next day.

Someone does Linni and it isn't me!

Look carefully at the relays you replaced, are the old and new ones identical? Identical part numbers? Are you sure it was actually the heated seat relay (and not the fuel pump one for instance) that you replaced? Have you checked the large exposed fusible links (those with bolted connections) for fractures with a magnifying glass? A scan with VCDS should reveal the problem.

It is the overhanging fold in the tailgate, that which stops the rain from falling on the lens, it looks curved and not straight because it is a fish eye lens, if you look at the bottom you can see the same going on with the number plate.

You need to keep rotating the counter screw to maintain a force pushing against the piston whilst rotating the tommy bar clockwise, without that it will just turn in space (cant recall how that is said in English).

IIRC it was EU4 and the MK1 before it was EU3, I may have got that wrong, the MK2 had a PD engine, no DPF, no regens or any of that nonsense.

Yeah right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Before throwing money at parts bingo I suggest you invest in VCDS and see exactly why the ECU is preventing an engine start. It sounds like the car does not stand you in any money so it will be a very good investment

My now ex UK neighbour bought a 2014ish MK2 Facelift Octavia Estate after being impressed with my Mk 2, he tells me that he can no longer use it to pick up visitors from Heathrow, that the M25 is OK but the airport is within the ULEZ. However the last century POS Japanese city car (automatic) that his wife ended up buying as an act of charity from her potless son when he emigrated to the states, the same son that insists they collect him and the ever growing family from Heathrow when they come to scrounge, the car that she wont let him get rid of despite it smoking like a Pompier, costing a fortune to insure and tax (it has a huge CO2 rating) turns out to be ULEZ compliant 🤣 I cant even tell you what it is, its a POS but reliable so other than polishing the yellowed headlights I have never worked on it or paid any attention to it, I think it may be a Toymotor. So Lee is correct and someone with a later expensive vehicle is more likely to find themselves up **** creek with the ULEZ than someone poor with an old schnorrer.

Nope, why would I bother? I know my engine is EU5 and not compliant. Like Lee I have no intention of driving in London (but never say never) if I were to get an enforcement notice I would add it to the extensive collection of parking tickets awaiting a blank garage wall to once again decorate. None of the UK speed camera flashes or average speed camera contraventions ever got sent to France, we however send ours to the UK!

Also the initial voltage when taken off charge is meaningless.

GPS speed indications are only valid for a level road are they not? On an incline or descent they would in my mind under-read.

My vehicle, 2015, by far the newest vehicle I have ever owned, non ULEZ compliant. Your 2015 blue Oxmoron, probably non compliant.

I cycled to work one in the Kent countryside one day and saw a dead badger on the grass verge, completely intact, it may not have been dead but perhaps ill or concussed, I was late and had passed it by the time I gathered my thoughts so decided to stop on the way home. When I got to the spot I found the tractor PTO driven verge cutting machine had been along and shredded the badger it was not a pretty sight. In Northern France returning home in the early hours of the morning from romancing my headlights picked up a badger eating roadkill in the middle of the road, I didn't know they were carnivors and this one was up to his neck in the deer carcass and so intent that he (or she) did not even move out of the way when I approached and I had to drive slowly over the verge to get around him, it was really bizarre. The next day I told my girlfriend what had happened, she was a farmers daughter so I was very surprised that she had never heard of the animal (Blaireau) before, it must have been a rare sighting. Much more common in the area are Raton Laveur - Raccoons, yes I too was surprised, not only a non indigenous species but one without natural predators and becoming a real problem to the native wildlife. The population started by American Airmen stationed in the French cold war airbases (before they were kicked out!) smuggling them over as mascots, a few escaped and did what comes naturally, the rest is history.

It sounds like the auto saved his life so definitely best for him. Was he in the car on the river bed or pushed out into the garage? In either case the car opening the doors saved him.

It has not sent a fault if the wording of the fault code is to be believed, and in this instance I think it can. Electrical error indicates that the ECU is not measuring the volt drop across the solenoid when it is commanded, a failed solenoid or wiring fault. If it was and when the valve was commanded the expected increase or decrease of pressure was not measured the ECU would create a fault code of oil circuit high/low pressure above/below limits or implausible reading. The purpose of the high and low pressure regimes is for the piston cooling oil jets under load conditions.

On most of the chargers that function sounds great but in reality is a chocolate teapot, if you look into it deeply enough you will find that the process is only invoked if the cell voltage is below 7.5v at which point the battery is usually long beyond salvation. Any older battery may be sulphated, its very tempting to want to let the charger work its magic but no way would I willingly discharge it to lower than 7.5v in order to do so. The value of the function is that other chargers simply will not recognise a battery with that low a voltage and cannot charge them but that is easily overcome by using a second battery as a shunt for the first few minutes. I think the voltage is 7.5v, now I am beginning to have doubts.