J.R.

Measure it.

And the OP is not only still driving the car like that but doing a couple of thousand kms per week and is going to continue doing so for 4 weeks , I pity whoever ends up with this vehicle when they knock it out. Any responsable garage would not have let the customer leave the premises with the vehicle and would not even have started the engine until it had been flushed and refilled with fresh oil and a new filter, and then watched the oil quality like a hawk over a decent mileage before handing it back.

Yes scraping noise seperate, it sounds exactly like when I have had rear disc backplates self compost but these I have replaced and they are good. Diff noise became very bad while I was driving with no oil in the diff, manifested itself on a 200 mile motorway then autoroute journey heavily laden, I filled with oil and flushed twice and was very lucky that everything had overheated but no evidence of the case hardening being worn through, its left me with diff noise but acceptable and 50K miles later its really no worse but as you will probably understand I am now paranoid about transmission noise, removing the rear seats has made that worse.

There is no certainty, like you I find it impossible to spin a wheel up to check for bearing noise against the resistance of the brake caliper, driveshaft and differential, and in the case of the rear wheel rotating the crownwheel, propshaft and planet gears against the other stationary driveshaft, some on here reckon that is rubbish and it can easily be done, I reckon their mechanical experience does not go beyond a keyboard. Steering to the right increases the loading on both LH wheel bearings and reduces it on the RH ones, if I had replaced the front LH bearing my next one would be the LH rear but I cannot be certain. I have what I think is diff bearing noise after making the classic error when changing the Haldex oil but its really hard to track down, sometimes at low speed I hear scraping from what I believe is the NSR but without standing outside while someone else replicates the noise I cant be sure, both rear wheels when jacked up seem ok, brake pads wih plenty of meat, no dragging, backplates not rusted or fractured, I fitted my winter wheels this week while sourcing new tyres, now what I thought was diff noise seems louder, maybe its tyre noise and lack of insulation, I have the rear seats and parcel shelf removed permanently.

He is a muppet, I can quite believe that he tells that to everybody whose car he cannot get going or diagnose the fault, I can believe that he even believes it his-self but how would he ever know how the problems were eventually resolved? I can not know either but I would bet every centime that I have to my name that he is talking sh1te.

NSR.

Usually that is a 100% indication. Did you replace both front and rear NS bearings?

As the **** makes my skin crawl the best I can do is to click on a few random parts of the video and listen for a couple of seconds (a technique I use with one obsessive on here) by chance I landed on this part and realised that I am not alone: What does it say about our society that these idiots can make a very good living from ****tery or flashing their bits on only fans?

That is music to my ears, I am intending buying an EV for journeys within a certain radius, I will actively seek either a write off or one with problems, the more "problem" cars out there the better for me!

Is it not the same warning icon for low brake fluid reservoir level? I don't know because I have only ever seen it once. Given the bleeding work the OP has done a problem with the level sensor is logical.

Deleted, I had misread the "I done 1100 miles" not realising that it belonged to the line above.

Avoiding a car ever having to visit the dealer is a superb thing to aim for. It's not by chance that people who do their own repairs and servicing have much less stress in their lives. Tesla recognises that any interaction with the dealership bull****tery carries a high probability of dissatisfaction and its the manufacturers reputation that gets tarnished. Main dealers do not want to do repairs, servicing or warranty work but are obliged to do so, all they want to do is sell finance, the vehicle being the vehicle to do so (see what I did there!). For many a visit to the main dealer for a problem during warranty is the beginning of months or even years of grief especially if they are locked into a lease, the dealers just carry on with the "leave it with us and we will pretend to have done something" shenanigans in the hope that the customer will lose the will to live, most do, eventually the car gets returned or sold and the owner is put off that make for life. Look how many of those vehicles with unresolved problems end up on these pages, recent low mileage cars that have had 5 or more owners being sold, thrown back and punted on through the trade. Probably 50% of the vehicles I have owned have been these problem cars that dealers sell to me as a last resort, the fault is always a simple one given time and thought, most of the time it was caused in the first place by the dealers. Tesla are onto a real winner here, car dealerships will be fighting to sell their vehicles and in time the public will be fighting to buy them.

2013, car only 8 months old, 6 years ago..................... Something does not add up, did you buy a second hand 2013 vehicle 6 years ago and the problems occurred 8 months after your purchase? It sounds like you have plenty of money to get it fixed up but have you really had to put up with the problems for 6 years before being able to tackle them? It's how things happen in my country but I thought the UK legal system would resolve things quicker.

"year 5" is a bit cryptic when the actual age of the vehicle is very relevant in this matter. I am of the opinion that any 19TDi will be a PD engine and should be tested to the higher limit. @Clarkypainter can you confirm the year of manufacture and what engine code your vehicle has?

I would realign the rear axle thus eliminating the thrust angle and in doing so the NSR toe angle would come back within limits. In fact it is probably the front sub-frame which is out, I bet there has been some transmission or clutch work undertaken.

Loose dipstick tube 🥴 that is service receptionist bull**** 101. Do not drive the car one more mile, have the oil drained, the engine run for 30 minutes on flushing oil and then a oil and filter change and monitor the oil condition like a hawk. What is your usual journey profile? Does the car warm up quickly and the heater work correctly?

You can read and delete fault codes, do live data, pretty sure measuring blocks, you cannot make any changes without using a VIN up. £145 or £245?

Just do it exactly as you described, remove the first original bulb if it throws up a bulb failure warning.

Good for you, I don't and have zero short term memory (brain damage from Malaria) so even if it was my bag baby I would probably not remember what they say

After posting this morning I stopped at the end of the road and you can indeed reset the TPMS at a standstill, questioning my sanity I then tried it on the move and it worked again. What I am still 100% certain of is that when the warning comes up when driving through deflation it will not allow reset on the move, you have to stop and (the ECU hopes) visually check and then it will let you reset when driving and no doubt as I found this morning also at a standstill. Which leave me with an enigma, when I do it on the move I have to hold the button down until the wheels have completed a certain amount of revolutions and then the confirmation bong sounds and the light goes out, the faster I am driving the quicker this happens, doing it at a standstill still takes a few seconds then you get the confirmation bong and the light goes out but it cannot possible have registered any new wheel revolution data at a standstill 🥴

From the photographs I would say that it has a few right now 🤣 A burst front right tyre not being one of them though.

Doesn't look like that is going to happen 😁

Duff gen yourself!!!!!!!! That is 100% the case on my Yeti, the only way it can be reset, I know this for a fact because in recent weeks the slow puncture had got worse and I was having to do it a couple of times a week, I was visually checking the tyre before getting in and tried several times to reset before moving off, on this vehicle it has to be while driving and may even work while on a curve, I would not try as that is then reliant on another sensor input. I think my 9 year older MK2 Octavia may have been different though, I know it took a bit of experimentation to find how to turn this one off, the owners manual not being an option 🤣 Editted, it will also not let you reset until after stopping but then you have to drive again to do so.

You have to set it while driving in a straight line, press, hold and wait for the bong. Whatever made you think that it could be reset at a standstill? It also cannot be reset after a warning unless the vehicle has been stopped and the ignition switched off, both actions which would be taken by someone visually inspecting the tyres before resetting the TPMS while driving.

You can clearly see the first and second TWI's and the remaining tread is significantly above them, probably about 3mm. I finally removed my tyres which I have done 55K miles on and which were already part worn, seems crazy to put on winter tyres now having not needed them but its only till I source and fit some new ones. 1 was still probably legal, the others were below 1.6mm on the centre treads (run high when towing) and one rear had got quite low on the inside, the tread depths varied between 0.4 and 2.2mm. A couple of weeks back I drove in the wettest conditions I have ever driven in 48 years of motoring, one some very deep standing water on the autoroute I had minor aquaplaning on one wheel, no loss of steering or stability but I could feel it, keeping the speed blow 110 km/h avoided it, at 120kph it was fairly white knuckle 130kph it was reckless. You can have tyres worn to the legal limit and drive safely without aquaplaning unless you are driving too fast for the conditions, someone with new scrubbed in tyres can travel a moderate amount faster safely but a little more and they too are in the reckless zone but with a lot more momentum.