J.R.

They would instigate a recurring "after you!" - "No No, after you!" cycle. 4 Audis would just collide reverse and ram each other again and again until there was only one left running like a Destruction Derby!

Both unfused and exposed. Have you done a comparative discharge test to the last one with the new battery? I'm still wondering whether the battery monitoring device was responsable for the bulk of the discharge that you were seeing.

Having done that on a MK1 (worn inner swivel) whilst it is doable there is very little access and you need a really strong pull on a long spanner to release it which is nigh on impossible from under a jacked up car, from under a vehicle lift yes. If I have to do another I will buy the special 1/2" drive tool that allows you to undo it from under the wheelarch with a long extension. To further explain why for me heating seized nuts & bolts with a blowlamp is very sub optimal, the heat output is too low, in most cases especially on a trackrod end the male heat can soak away from the joint as quick as you can apply it, this means that even if you get the thing to say 300°c the inner threaded shaft will be at pretty much the same temperature, there will be no differential expansion between the male and female thread, with the right tip in an oxy-acetylene torch you can get the nut or the outer joint up to cherry red (900°c) very quickly and the female threaded part will expand significantly around the male part, a large temperature differential.

68kg with the transfer box 😯 Having done one in a pit I could if I had to do one on the ground but would move heaven and earth to avoid doing so, it made me determined to have a 2 post ramp here but its not looking possible unless it was outside. I (well we actually I had a helper) used ratchet straps as well, also an engine support beam bought for the job, one unforeseen difficulty was that having dropped the gearbox the car then has to be raised much higher than working height in order to remove it. I did mine working from a pit and lowered it onto an aluminium scaffold platform. @Igol I really hope you changed the concentric slave cylinder at the same time.

I watched 5 minutes of the guy allowing his Tesla to try and drive, it scared the K-rap out of me that there are people out there filming themselves letting the car drive and all their attention is on the screen trying to see if it has picked up a road sign or jogger whilst the car would drive straight over a roundabout without their intervention assuming they by chance happened to be looking at the road. And the government allows cars equipped with such to be sold and driven on the road 😒

Maybe some of us already do.

You are asking me lots of questions that I cannot possibly answer any more than I can say what lessons are to be learned from almost nil details.

Indeed, it was the photo that made me question that, I thought they might have been furry toys, it was difficult for my monocular vision to get a sense of perspective, I could see the aircon outside unit but not work out how far back it was. It looked like a bed or shelf in an indulged childs bedroom but now I can see they are lifesize.

Are we talking about adult sized costumes here? My mind is boggling!

None if there are no details!

I am not going to be looking at any Foxy ****ter feeds for fear of what the algorithm would think I am into! Not that I have an account but by "lifestyle choice" are you saying that he has become the equivalent of the attention seeking schoolkids that want to be given a litter tray and a saucer of warm milk at school? Perhaps he is seeking a someone called Derek to put their hand where the sun doesn't shine 😯

You do understand that you have to depress the clutch and keep it held down in order to start the car don't you? I have a feeling we are being wound up here. So how have you been starting the car since February, by depressing and holding down the clutch pedal or not?

No, yes and no! Yes, not even the spare key but the main one, what has that got to do with anything? They will have depressed the clutch pedal to initially start the car, I know its a pain and I hate it when I am working on the car with oily overalls but that is how it is. OK now we are getting somewhere, the ECU is not recognising that the clutch is depressed, there is a very hard to access hall sensor on the master cylinder that can be replaced, if that does not improve things then replace the cylinder, the toroidal magnet within can get encrusted with magnetic schmoo that comes from I know not where, its an alien species!

Are you certain that the leaking oil was DSG transmission fluid? 💡 No electrical fault can cause transmission or other oil to leak from the engine/transmission unit.

Certainly for their gear engagement problems but when the accumulator splits or leak doesn't the fluid remain within the transmission case? I was hoping for a cheap result but now the gear engagement slippage problem has been revealed somewhat less likely but certainly a fix to get through the MOT should be affordable.

You have not said what if any problems caused you to put the car into the hands of the garage Editted, I could not see the thread title when reading your posting. My apologies. A worn clutch would not create a fluid leak, its likely to be a leaking gasket, try asking the MOT garage where they think the leak is coming from

Not me, like Neily03 I think its daft to lock someone in a car, you make the choice to remain in the car with the doors deadlocked then you have to accept the consequences. You are not being accidentally locked in the car. What are the scenarios you imagine worse than the above that make you want to sit in a locked car?

If you have a leak you would know as the system will stop cooling in very short order. That is a leak that I am talking about and not the gradual loss of refrigerant gas that permeates through the rubber hoses unless they were made of a material costing more than the whole car. To the OP, if you feel that the cooling performance in summer is not as good as it once was then by all means pay for a vacuum down and recharge, you have had it done once, presumably at your request so you know the signs, it presumably lasted 6 years before needing that, I doubt you need to be concerned after 4 years. Or was the last "service" also upselling by the main dealer?

It does not. The system is lubricated by PAG oil, this does not leach out of the flexible hoses like the refrigerant gas due to its molecular weight.

Yeah, thats what I thought 😒

Grease the control loading cam that acts on the clutch pedal. I hope that you didnt pay to have a perfectly serviceable clutch replaced just for the pedal feel.

It also has a big warning on the Maxidot display about SAFELOCK every time the keys are removed from the ignition. You have 3 choices. Remain in an unlocked car, by far the safest option. Disable the deadlocking as described. Because that is what deadlocking is, you being able to open the door from inside is no different to a thief breaking a window and doing the same, what do you do with the front door of your house when you leave the home or when someone will be remaining in it?

Having read through your posting once again it now could read that for most of the year you have been able to start the vehicle without depressing the clutch and by inference that is how the garage returned the vehicle to you. Could you please clarify or further explain.

They must be half wits or thought you were and worthy of extracting some free money. It is a standard and to me very undesired feature, the vehicle cannot be started unless the clutch master cylinder sensor detects the piston being displaced. I am however confused regarding your mention of the EPC light.

As you followed their advice to send them the photos the next thing you could/should do is to download and fill out the form, scan it and E-mail it to them with perhaps another copy by recorded delivery post, it might just elicit a response and it is after all pretty much what they asked you to do. There is no logical reason why a local dealer should have to handle the claim when they have recieved the photos, well of course there is the obvious reason, going through the dealer means you will have already shelled out for new tyres before they reject the claim.