bigjohn

Octavia mk4 ? This is the Fabia mk4 section. Judging by others on other sections having difficulties re fitting a tow bar and ending up with a less than satisfactory solution (manually turning off rear sensors every time you tow/drive etc) I'd suggest getting the towbar fitted

You can just about guarantee that most of the pipes will be in poor condition now. The only really safe way is to effectively change all pipes that run outside the engine bay . flexi hoses (they can rot outside and/or inside). Re brake calipers/cylinders etc plus gas is your friend (soak for a few days), cut off pipe and use a well fitting socket. If they are still bad get new ones. You are probably better getting new clips/ connectors etc. Yes, you'll have to bleed all 4. You really need a pressure or vacuum bleed and something like VDCS to bleed the ABS block otherwise air remains trapped. I had a pipe pin hole blow many decades ago going down a hill towards traffic lights (my Dad's old MKIV Zodiac, single circuit brakes!). Fortunately a big v6 engine, large clutch and chunky gearbox meant I could get into reverse whilst going forward, rev the engine , drop the clutch and spin the rear wheel backwards to stop! The only casualty was my underwear but I've vowed never to repeat. A while later I saw a garage owner greasing metal brake pipes as part of his service so a) I used him for a few year, now retired sadly and b) I've either done it myself or insisted that my local independent does the same. Let's just say the metal brake pipes on Mrs BJ's 2006 Panda are still in remarkable condition.

Having run a Tomtom device for years a few suggestions to try :- 1) I had a problem with a Tomtom 5200 remaining connected to my phone(and using battery) via Bluetooth behind the scenes despite being apparently shutdown. I stopped using Tomtom's bluetooth pairing. 2)They are also rather voltage and current sensitive (A cheap 12v/USB wouldn't charge mine properly) - Is it a proper Tomtom hardwire kit? Measure with a multimeter. 3)Also on a car with stop start and latest charging management that reduces charging to save a g or two of CO2 it can cause issues. I used to hear this with my previous Superb that sometimes had a cool box in the boot connected via a voltage controlled split relay (to avoid a flat battery!) that would turn off after a while when on a long run. I found if I ran with the headlights on this never happened. I'd suggest plugging in a 12v device that has a voltage readout to have a look see.

In a word - NO

Does this engine have the electronically controlled water pump that restricts flow until warmed up? - oh and goes wrong!

Your car probably has the latest LED headlight technology that may engage tourist mode when going abroad - detected using the satnav GPS. If it's the simpler LED I think the official VAG line seems to be no adjustment required. [EDIT] I've found a previous link for exactly the same questions:- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510655-adjust-full-led-headlights-for-driving-on-right/ To be honest I have the same issue with my new car (Swace) which has LED lights and no tourist mode and the lights do have a slight uptick to the left when you shine on a flat wall. It might need Eurolites stick ons - but looking at an example instruction sheet and manually making a temporary cover it doesn't mask off the slight uptick. There are multiple "bulbs" with LED headlights. I might leave alone and adjust to the lowest setting. Again my local dealer has no idea and it's not mentioned in the rather thick manual.

Excellent engine but check service history especially re 4x4 gubbins. The Superb is an amazing, comfortable and refined mile muncher that with the 2.0 petrol really flies. 2018 and earlier mkIII models have the excellent twin injection per cylinder (direct and port) that works well and mitigates re carbon buildup that just direct injection engines can suffer from (saying that I've never encountered this with 1.4 tsi). I'm making full use of my estate this week - going camping now I've seen the forecast. Sadly it's no longer a Skoda Superb.

I found phone calls were just outputting through the tiny (and hidden) startup speaker of the Amazon Echo Auto. I'm sure I would have found the setting eventually but I decided to give up on Alexa in the car and removed the device. All worked well thereafter. I'm not that familiar with IOS but check audio / Bluetooth settings re calls. Looking online "Settings > Accessibility > Touch > Call Audio Routing. "

How about a Superb Estate 2.0 tsi?

Could be a setting. Anything else connected to the phone via other means- eg ear buds via bluetooth? Does the iPhone 16 work ok re phone call audio? When I bought my recent car (not Skoda) I initially had phone call sound issues which turned out to be settings on my Google Pixel 6a associated with an Amazon Echo Auto device that I used previously.

To my eyes the Audi A3 Saloon is a very stylish looking car - way better than it's SUV cousins.

We still have 2 cars for now as the second member of our fleet is a low mileage 2006 Fiat Panda (I look like Mr Incredible getting into into and driving it!) that I clearly have rustproofed way too well in the past as it's in surprisingly good condition. Originally bought new by Mrs BJs late father. All looking good for now but I'm sure there will be a badly failed MOT decision day at some point - at which point we probably won't replace. I bought my current car with Mrs BJ in mind but it had to be good for me to drive long distance and have a huge boot (slightly less bothered about rear passengers now). Trouble is I've been spoilt and now have a longer list of minimum requirements - Economy 60mpg +, heated steering wheel (who new!!) , heated seats, his/her climate control, adjustable height rear view mirror(being tall some rvm's badly obstruct my forward vision) , auto (full hybrid in my case) , big door mirrors, auto beam LED headlights, Android Auto, rear camera!!. Original list still stands - spare wheel well, higher profile tyres, no Keyless entry, no touch screen for primary car functions.

I think you need to change the plugs anyway as they are well overdue and the tsi's are heavy on them.

I've had two Superb models in the past and they were both just about the best normal cars (ignoring toys!) I've ever owned, saying that a Saab 9000 in the past was up there. However yes they were pretty low down to get in and out, Not quite an issue for us yet but my 87 year old Mum struggled getting in and out of my previous mkII. However once I was in either Superb I found then excellent re accommodating my 6ft4" and large frame, the larger front doors making a huge difference. Unfortunately due to retirement we've ultimately decided to down size to one car between me and Mrs BJ and she finds the Superb toooo big to drive. Driving positions / seats are an individual thing as well - we are all different. I don't like the more sit up and beg driving position of some SUV's but might have no option as we get older! Basically the Superb is er "Superb!"

Don't guess - get the stored codes read / properly diagnosed.

Yes , you have to be careful re water held in the sills, it will eventually rot through. The facelift doesn't have rubber bungs but it does have drains at low level inside the wheelarch (bottom of the cover) at each end of the sills. I checked mine with a thin knitting needle - one was bunged up. I Dinitrolled excessively, left it ages but some still poured out when I first drove it afterwards. Likewise behind wheel arch line was deep in leaves/ cruf etc with mine - no sign of rust fortunately. Cleaned out and more rust proofing applied. I think this is a design flaw! I checked my Son's 2016 Octavia mkIII and it has a cut out designed into the base of the front wing and was totally clear. Sunroof drains can be a pain - mine didn't have them as it was only the poverty spec but I remember my old Dad's Volvo 740 rotted through because of a broken sunroof drain. Muggins had to weld it backup as much as I could without a full blown strip down( I still had to remove all seats/carpets - and still nearly set fire to the dashboard!) but it was so bad I told him to get rid as further major rust issues would be likely.

Has the car had some previous accident damage? - I ask as the shut line between rear door and rear wing panel doesn't look quite right - or is it me? I suspect it's a fabrication job re wheel arch. Might be better anyway as sometimes rot on galvanised panels can be very localised indeed although post welding it'll need very thorough rust proofing. I kept a close eye on my mkII 2014 facelift hatch and to be honest there was zero rust on body panels but I regularly rustproofed, suspension parts were a different matter! I used to restore cars back in the day so I'm well experienced at welding in repair panels or fabrication. Those days are over for me though!!

No. Every tow bar assembly after 1989 must be type-approved.

The 1.8 can have major problems re oil consumption & pistons. Saying that I have a friend who had the 1.8tsi in a Yeti that didn't suffer this. The v6 sounds fun! [EDIT] https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/261643-18-tsi-excessive-oil-consumption/page/2/

I'd replace anti roll bar bushes whilst accessible whilst subframe is removed. A swine to do when in situ.

That's all my facelift 2014 twindoor ever did from when I bought it nearly new. I think that's normal - it's not a powered boot, the gas struts just help it stay put when raised. During my decade of ownership I usually opened as a hatch after reading about wiring issues within the twin door assembly. I only really used as a boot on a restricted height ferry or multistory car park.

Engine mount?

Different car but the speed limit change subtle beep has probably already saved me from a speed awareness course. It beeped and I thought ????, I'd passed through an obscured speed limit sign, however almost immediately around a corner just after the change a speed van was in wait! Fortunately the car had already made me aware - phew.

Are you sure you are engaging 1st gear, it sounds like you are setting off in 3rd gear? Possible gear linkage mis alignment when the clutch was changed. Just a thought, I did a similar thing changing a clutch many moons ago. Could also be an engine / gearbox mount issue causing the same.