bigjohn

Don't you turn the steering wheel lock to lock to reset the steering wheel position sensor?

All I can comment on is Crossclimates (not the + yet) transformed my Superb so I'm reluctant to move to another brand. They seem to be lasting reasonably well as well. To be honest I was just after a reasonable all season tyre to help with my horrible commute but the improvement in refinement took me by surprise, it was very noticeable to me. It's hard for me to comment on ride as my poverty spec is good anyway sitting on 55 profile tyres. There are sections of my commute that suffer badly when raining with "rivers" traversing the road - on my previous Continentals you had to hang on for grim life - with the Cross Climate the expreience is much more stable and substantially less stressful. The Vector 4' may be great for this but I'll ask for others to comment on these. I flirted with a set of Quatrac 5's at the end of the ownership of my previous Superb I - these weren't too bad but had a distinctive "sound" and were not quite as good in the wet and felt a bit "sqidgy" in really hot weather traversing Europe. However have they have lasted incredibly well. As a comparison Michelin Energy tyres were truly awful on the same commute!

Infotainment looks improved and a usb C is available near the mirror to run a dash cam (EDIT found in the manual mentioned above) https://www.eurekar.co.uk/articles/2020-06-30/skoda-switches-to-more-tech

Mine is the other extreme 1.4tsi 2wd poverty spec so a lot less going on under the car!! However it's interesting re the rust on the underfloor that looks like it has formed despite the plastic covering. Last time I saw mine underneath whilst it was being serviced with plastic covers removed it still looked spotless - I'll ask to have a look see on the next service.

Actually for 12 years the start point didn't look too bad considering. I've just been holding the rust back on my wifes 2006 Fiat Panda and I can tell you that was considerably worse (see photos before/after) - OK albeit two years older. Myself I've been using Owatrol oil that looks like engine oil but set's to a sort of varnish/resin finish and is fab at holding back the rust. Great for suspension components as well. Thanks for the pictures - it'll give me a clue where to start on my 2014 twindoor. Did yours have a full length plastic undertray? - The floor on my facelift seems to be covered in plastic front to rear with semi circular cutouts for jacking up.

Seconded re Michelin CrossClimate

The Michelin Crossclimates fitted to my Superb II have been way quieter than the original Continental summer tyres fitted to it. They also perform well - especially when "very" wet

No - what sort of smell?

I'd suggest that if the led doesn't flash on the fob - then something electrically within the key is not right. Take it to bits and have a look see.

I'd check all the engine/gearbox mounts - these may have been disturbed / damaged during the clutch replacement. After some work on my previous Octavia I had a mount fail between the top of the gearbox and the chassis. It looked ok - but it wasn't

Er - which engine does it have? and If it is the 1.4 is it the old pushrod version or the 16v? Inlet and exhaust gaskets won't leak oil. Sump gasket, oil seal, oil breather, head gasket etc can leak oil. You need to get under the car and try to see where it is coming from. The 1.416v petrol is well known for leaking where the oil breather fastens to the engine.

That's good to know - I'm considering new

If you are comparing other cars. My previous 1.9pd 2003 Skoda Superb mk I which I owned for 10 years is still going strong now under new ownership (original battery, clutch, exhaust ) and its replacement a 1.4tsi 2014 Superb mk II, as yet faultless at 86k miles. Other than servicing the only thing replaced has been the front brakes. Likewise my sons 2016 1.2tsi Octavia has been faultless this far. I've been following the 1.5tsi issues with interest as I originally wanted this engine in a car as my 1.4tsi has been fab - I'm not so sure at the moment. I've noticed the recent Audi A4 went straight from the 1.4tsi to a lower powered version of the 2.0 engine and not the 1.5. Until I'm happy the 1.5tsi is fully sorted I'll stick with the 1.4tsi Superb - surprisingly nippy and despite the small engine it's a fab long distance cruiser. It's had numerous cross Europe trips - er possibly not this year though!!

It might be a UK thing - I can't remember seeing a 1.8 version of the Series III here. I was looking closely when it came out and the range jumped from 1.4tsi to 2.0 with 220 or 280ps at the time. Has there been a 1.8 since?

I thought the Superb mk3 wasn't produced with a 1.8tsi. Originally the petrol versions were 1.4tsi (later version is 1.5tsi ) and 2.0tsi

I'm a fan of Varta batteries. My previous 2003 Superb mkI had one fitted from new and is still going strong (car now under new ownership). I suspect the Moll EFB fitted to my 2014 Superb II won't last as long, still ok at the moment though at over 6 years old and 86k miles.

Thinking of anything that might have been disturbed during the cam belt change - another thought might be an engine / gearbox mount? The first thing I mentioned (wiring loom) usually would cause a judder as it could drop a cylinder (or two) under some circumstances An engine/ gearbox mount could cause judder as drive is taken up or put under pressure ( eg putting foot down to power up hill!). On my old petrol mk I Octavia the mount between the top of the gearbox/ chassis failed causing strange noises at times. These can be disturbed/put under pressure during a cambelt change.

If timing OK then I'd replace the injector wiring loom first - it is a common fail especially when disturbed. The wiring within the head sits in oil and eventually deteriorates. It's a pretty cheap and easy replacement. Any codes stored?

Ah - possibly a clue - faulty brake light switch? A faulty one can confuse the hell out of the engine electronic control and can flatten a battery if you end up parking with brake lights on. Just a thought - used to be a common fail on earlier VAG cars - but I suspect this is a hall effect device rather than a switch as such, however..... Question - is your cruise control working?

Take it to an air con specialist - Kwik fit aren't. If you are not careful without a proper diagnosis you'll end up replacing every component in the system and be in danger of damaging other bits. The N280 control valve is a common fail and is a cheap component.

If it ain't broke don't fix it

My previous 2003 Superb mk I 1.9pd under new ownership still has its original Varta battery - mileage well through the 200's now.

I'd be worried the clutch pressure plate is faulty and machining its way through the gearbox casing! Don't think the 1.5 has a DMF

Thought I'd share the headlight conversion for European driving of my facelift 2014 Skoda Superb II S as I seen a couple of them with Eurolites attached. I don't have the benefit of "Travel" or "Tourist" with the halogen headlights on my Superb and last year I struggled finding how to convert them last year for driving in Europe - spending a lot of time with the master technician at my local Skoda dealership - apparently they are very different from the pre facelift models I can now do it in a couple of minutes a side using an inspection camera and a small screwdriver. You need to remove the headlight bulb plastic cap, insert the inspection camera viewing the "wing side" rear of the reflector - follow up with a small but long screwdriver to move the lever (it clicks into position) Hope this helps someone, I'd even bought a pack to Eurolites ready! I've take photos of this years (today!) conversion:-