rum4mo

@J.R., I'm guessing that you "flush" your manifold set with virgin R134A always prior to connecting it to the system, that is allowed and not considered to be an intentional release of R134A.

I'd think that you could only check that the fuse and its connecting terminals are in good condition and that it tightly grips the fuse, any point like that in a circuit should normally only get warm/hot if there is some circuit resistance at that point and so volts are getting dropped > leading to getting warm/hot.

I can't give you any clues there at all sorry, someone else might chip in if they have had to replace a fan motor. It's always worth checking the cabin or pollen filter now that this has happened, I've forgotten what the access to the actual fan impeller is via the opened filter area, but you might be able to reach in and spin the fan with something to try to gauge if it is free to turn or a "bit stiff to turn".

For a resistor pack to only last for a month, your options for why must start with:- 1) not a genuine part 2) an electrical or mechanical issue with the fan motor, ie windings partially shorted out or bearing seizing up slightly - both causing a higher than normal current draw. 3) obstructed air flow as it will be the air passing over this resistor network that keeps it cool enough to survive. 4) another few reasons that I have not thought about.

Hum, I'm not too sure about that in a sump which is either just a thin sheet of steel with a threaded boss welded onto it or alloy casting, okay in a heavy transmission block though, there are enough "mechanics" swinging on a spanner tightening these parallel threaded sump plugs that have a seal on them without doing even more on a taper thread.

(tongue stuck in cheek) The problem can be that most cars now have their engines fitted sideways for some reason and so getting a cranking handle in is a bit trickier - leaving it in and driving away even worse, so maybe progress is a good thing - good thing for battery sellers anyway.

I have 2 cars that use that same sump seal, so I buy them 4 at a time any time I am running out and while ordering in other parts from CCP or any local VW Group dealership parts department. Washer is N 0138157 (14 X 20) Torque 30Nm Plug without washer is N902 889 01 (M14 X 1.5 X 16) For many reasons I find having a spare plug is handy, especially if the plug falls into the oil basin! Also, these folded crush washers/seals cost mare than the old style "plug with flat washer". Edit:- that plug is the correct part number for your EA211 CJZD engine - sealing washer is used with a few other engines across the VW Group marques.

No, sorry that does not ring any bells, VW Group seem to be terrible with regards to helping out owners with S/W updates even although the actual S/W update is free, outside warranty you will normally get charged the labour time to find it and load it into the car, a bit annoying when the updates are only to correct a programming error. It seems that what happens is ,if you hand your car in and no fault codes have been logged but there is an obscure fault, the tech will search the marque technical resource and if nothing is found then they say "not a problem" if then you can put enough pressure on the service team, they will , if they chose, log a technical request on the marque's global technical database - which should result in an answer within 48 working hours. I had to get this done on a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza in 2017 - I got a result and the S/W update was applied to the car, but it probably took me about 18 months to get there. It seems that maybe due to the volume of S/W updates etc being issued, "older" issues and all reference to them get archived very quickly, so a request like mine almost 8 years after that car was build was not an issue that any techs currently working could remember having to deal with - that is what happens when a company like VW Group rely on owners complaining and so reporting issues before any corrective action is applied, some cars being operated in a certain manner do not exhibit know problems, then someone else uses that same car and a know issue appears for the first time when the car is 5 years old - I was looking after my daughter's Ibiza bought new, and I used that car in a different way, ie only used it every 6 days and its battery was always flat, I'm just re-telling that tale to show how things can work out, that is all.

I've had that in my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, I might be wrong here, but I think that that was supposed to get "disabled/ignored" by a S/W update a few years back, I'm not sure if my wife's 2015 Polo ever got that update, but does not now log that fault, only, I've just remembered that the compressor has been disabled for "a while" due to low AC gas pressure, but that was resolved yesterday. I'd clear that fault as the AC will work all the time that that fault condition is not present, but it might get logged again - etc etc. AC is not something we normally need up in Scotland!

Seeing as your location is Edinburgh, there are a few competent VW Group Independent Specialists, AVW being one and Autohaus being another.

I could be wrong here, but, P334B is the OBD code for this fault, 16434 is VW own code for this same code, one thing though, VW codes are more extensive and so more exact when it comes to what gets picked up when scanning the car, VCDS can decode or "translate" all VW specific codes in all controllers. Out of general interest which code(s) has been found in HVAC?

You are right there, but there is always the issue with "he said he definitely fitted it" - these places are not quality, so at best only doing some bits of the job, I'd think that "the manager" is just the guy willing to face up you selected from whoever is free to talk, so in my world not worth chasing, I've learned my lesson, getting the car back with it missing was a worry prior to dropping the car off, but in the end I forgot to remove it.

First the "pumped sniffer" I bought a used AN134 Leak Detector, this is a device same as I had used at work for many years and so trust it. It has a sensor inside the body that it passes sampled "air" across and has adjustable sensitivity. They turn up on ebay from time to time, it has a long flexible (stiff but bendable) wand that you can get into places that you want to check. As no doubt you know, when starting from a vacuum, the plan can be to "dump" refrigerant into a powered down system in liquid form to get enough in to allow the system to start running, then its back to turning the cylinder back onto its base and continue loading until the transferred weight is correct. Lucky you having been brave enough to buy a cylinder, so far, as a DIYer, I have only bought a 2Kg "tin" of R134 and transferring that takes lot of time unless I'm up for heating up the "tin". I was given a band heater to speed things up when adding refrigerant when I was working, though that was using a "crazy" or "specialised" low pressure refrigerant which was circulated using a rotary pump and kept in liquid phase by means of nitrogen blanket!! Which was a horrible way to do things and caused no end of compromises when it came to recovering all the refrigerant into recovery cylinders! Air will have bigger "particle sizes" than R134A - when trying really hard to make a system as leak proof as possible, Helium is the gas of choice as it has "particle size" a lot smaller than most refrigerants - I think, so if a system tests good with Helium, it is good! The main problem with air will be "is it dry?" if not small beads of frost can end up choking any throttle points in a system, plus compressing air will not return it to a liquid, not at normal AC compressor pressures.

@J.R., just to let you see what some people are fitting to their Mk3 SEAT Leons in case it offers the same replacement cover that would fit your Octavia. https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/has-anyone-installed-jack-pads-on-their-mk3.458621/#post-4905201

Yes "age" of part sounds correct, probably what I bought accidentally.

I'd take on board the battery health seriously, maybe even get it checked somewhere as well as making sure that the "not charging" light is on when the key is moved to the "on" position, then goes out as soon as the car starts.

Got my wife's 2015 Polo recharged by ATS today, I considered removing the charging port dust caps in case they got lost or not put back on - then thought I should really trust them to do the proper job, wrong now I see the low side dust cover has gone, so I'll need to buy a new one, why can't people do the job they are paid to do! I checked the system over for leaks while working hard, by using a pumped sniffer, no leaks evident, at least I have recorded what I should have done years ago, ie taken a set of reading of ambient temperature, evaporator temperature, high side pressure and centre vent outlet temperature. Soon I'll check the running pressures using my fridge manifold as I should have done last year!!

I'd be sticking with 5 years, so now it is due, that is what I did for my daughter's Ibiza with that engine and that worked out okay. The mileage might even be 60K, with the proviso that if 5 years comes up first then do it at 5 year point.

@J.R., is there not an official replacement plastic cover that has the same effectively as the Audi TT hard plastic peg that gets driven up into the rubber protector, and something else for the rear points?

As above, as you will discover, you will need to buy one from an earlier VW Group car, I bought one in haste it was a VW Golf maybe 2004 model, for a 2002 Polo - then worked out what was wrong and fixed it and the equaliser loop straightened up!

@J.R., you are lucky, I thought all the Golf/Leon/Octavia/A3 owners needed to retrofit these parts, or maybe earlier cars got that fitted at factory, which sounds a bit weird as I didn’t think any VW Group marque encouraged their use for lifting - that was just smart diner users that did that.

There will be 4 - off "strong enough" points under the car to use a trolley jack with a spreader pad on it, look for the 4 - off round hardish plastic bungs - not soft rubberish bungs - they tend to have a countersink groove on the surface, that is where you can permanently fit Audi TT MK1 Jacking Point protectors, the front ones are inboard of the sill and towards the front of the car form the official jacking point, the rear ones are again inboard of the sill and towards the rear of the car. For the axle stands you will need to make up or buy slotted blocks with HD rubber on the top - and use under the official jacking points. If you are going to keep this car for a while, the Audi TT jacking pads are for handy, well at least for me as I have 2 trolley jacks that have small lifting cup that fits these jacking pads exactly, they let you grab a trolley jack look underneath and quickly place the jack's cup below 2 of these points and lift one side up at a time, then slip in a couple of axle stands and repeat on the other side. These 4 - off strongish points are only there for factory use when moving the bodies around, but as soon as Audi started using them to ease lifting the TT, lots of people used them on cars up to the Golf etc weight/size range. I've hd absolutely no issues with using them since they became available or on my radar, since maybe 2004 onwards, I had to buy a new set for my wife's 2015 Polo when we bought it as I had left it too late to start trying to remove them from her old 2002 Polo. Edit:- I've spent a bit of time making up suitable axle/jack stand padded adapters for both my cars, each one slightly different as the body profile at or near the jacking points are different on different models, but in each case I've made a point of only using the vertical folded seam as a locator and kept the weight of my cars mainly on the flat area behind the sill and some on the front of the sill, though the area supporting the front or outer area is really only being used to improve stability should any of the other 3 supporting points want to induce any tilting. I'm just trying to keep things safe while also protecting my cars while working under them. My load spreaders are slightly longer than the jacking points. I stopped lifting my cars at a single point years ago as I don't like stressing the frame welds any more than they see in normal daily use.

That is the best plan and replace with G13 or its aftermarket supplied equivalent, Commo for one I think has a "which VW Group version" selector.

Maybe you would be better doing that yourself, ie starting your own new thread - or adding this to one of the "twin charger" threads to keep everything together. I'm sure that no one minds or bothers that you have SEAT Ibiza Twincharger on a Skoda Fabia forum, I don't have a Skoda Fabia just a VW Polo - not a Twincharger though, only a 1.2TSI 110PS - or my wife has!

Good! Now that you have included "restart" in hot weather it 99.9% pointed to the ECT sensor and not the occasional EVAP solenoid that I suggested as an outside possibility. This can be where a fully compliant VW Group scan tool helps, okay if the ECT sensor is not handing the correct temperature but a credible/possible one, no fault will get logged, but you could have been able to see what the ECT sensor thought the temperature was - and worked out if that was correct or not.