rum4mo

I think that maybe you are lucky that your Skoda dealership is handing out this warning, okay it will mainly be to generate revenue for the workshop, but on the other hand, years ago, when cambelts were a newish thing, a neighbour who admitted to knowing nothing about cars - and his local Ford agent knew this, bought a Ford Escort 1.3L with the CVH new from that local Ford agent and always used them for servicing, during maybe year 5 the cambelt or bits "went" and trashed the engine, when he went into that Ford agent to arrange for repairs, all he got was "yes that can happen, it should have been replaced at 4 years" - that was the last car he ever bought from that friendly local small Ford agent, I reckon that they had let him down very badly, similar advice to what you got given should have been handed out to him at the correct time.

I fitted this to the front of my 2011 Audi S4, and as I did not want to revisit this area, ie remove the bumper in the future, I used Araldite bonding adhesive, bought from Halfords and ignored buying or using any stick on pads. I also "scatter cashed" on a kit to punch the holes in the bumper and this kit also had mandrels and clamps to accurately locate and hold these sensor mountings while the bonding adhesive cured - it all worked out well, I'm sure that you already know that there will be X at the correct points on the inner face of the bumper. By buying the correct hole punching tool, you achieve the same quality of finish as at the factory this is due to the fact that you punch the hole in from the outer surface and in doing so it rolls in some of the painted surface and so kind of lines the hole.

On this IOS14 subject, but off topic:- there are reports of IOS14 seriously reducing battery "use", ie being wasteful - has anyone found this to be true? So far I've only moved an iPad Mini up to IOS14 and left iPhone SE on IOS13 for now - maybe just a lot of interwebnet "false news".

Oh bother, if you ordered it in new from your local Skoda dealership, they will normally take it back and charge a handling charge and order in the correct one. I know this because I got my local VW parts place to order me in a pair of TREs for my wife's 2002 Polo back in 2006/7 - they trusted me as I normally just handed them part numbers as opposed to asking for a "y" for a 2002 Polo, unfortunately, I had picked the section in the parts listing for Polo without power steering - I never made that mistake again, lesson learned!

I'd not convinced that erWin will answer all your questions, why not go into your nearest Skoda dealer's parts dept and ask for prices for both these part numbers and a quick "what is the difference?" question, that should fix things.

I don't know about Skodas, but Audi and VW and SEAT are quite a bit "light" on what they include on these "build data" stickers, you can get more info on "CAR DATA" printout from a dealership, but even that does not and probably can not cover every area of the car.

So in a month or so's time it should end up getting into the next issue.

You should not have to remove the drive shaft on the LHS as that is the side that the gearbox is on and that shaft is shorter and so does not limit the downwards movement of the lower wishbone so much, ie the strut should be out of the hub carrier before the downward movement of the lower wishbone gets limited. Something to make life a bit easier in the future if you think that you might revisit this area is, a tool to expand the hub carrier strut "socket", messing around with small chisels/re-shaped hex keys etc just made expanding the hub carrier "socket" a messy job, before I did the second side, I made sure that I had bought a hub (carrier) expander tool.

Any cars with sports suspension probably get away without removing the RHS drive shaft as the springs will be shorter. A car with a BXW engine would normally have normal suspension. Though I don't mind being wrong as that would mean when I need to work on the front suspension of my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, I would need to bother about doing that part of the job, from memory, I probably just dived in and removed the RHS drive shaft from the late 2009 Ibiza with the BXW because I needed to do that on my wife's old 2002 Polo with the BBY engine. I'd think that if you had and used very slim/compact/expensive spring compressors, you could shorten the spring enough before taking the strut off and out of the hub carrier. I seem to remember that the (factory fitted) top nut is just a "crushed" nut, so a bit of repeat crushing it would turn it back into a lock nut again.

Hum, very annoying being encouraged to replace a rear box just because the outer skin is holed, the original rear box would have probably lasted longer than this new one, I had to resort to buying a couple of SS bands to keep the outer skin "okay" on my wife's Polo when it was 12 years 100k miles old, did the same with older daughter's late 2009 Ibiza when it was only 9 years 50k miles - then she sold it. I've heard of these top mounts "going", though at 16 years the originals have had a good life, sometimes the valves inside the basically under used rear dampers start to get a bit slow to open so that can cause a bit of knocking. At the beginning of your last posting it began to sound that this "garage" was in fact a fast fit place trying to get you to replace anything that they stocked!

Sorry I can't help with Skoda PR codes, or the "not pretreated", but the "not pretreated" bit sounds a lot like being to do with the area that the bonding glue contacts. As you say, all these online parts listing will be "borrowed" from the VW Group Ekta resource, some are updated to include newer models quicker than others and some come with higher risk of naughty extras.

Maybe make sure that you are prepared to remove the RHS drive shaft nut as that side's lower arm can not usually get forced down far enough to get the strut out of its socket in the hub carrier, sometimes the locking element breaks when you remove this nut, and sometimes it doesn't, so safer to buy in a new nut for that.

I think that in this case, it is just personal preference, maybe like you, I did not like the look of the old bolt due to the "grippy bits" being flattened down a lot and the risk that fitting a socket on the end of these bolts in a few more years time might not be too easy, maybe worse for the rear calliper carriers as they have an internal ie female maybe spline arrangement in the bolt heads.

If you have had drums/discs off you need to make sure that the hub surface is clean as is the same area on both sides of the drum/discs, also, I have a few large nuts and washers that I can fit over the wheel fixing bolts to simulate the "thickness" of the road wheels and tighten all 5 wheel bolts up - by doing that you know that the drum/disc is "sitting" down as it will be once the road wheel is back on - then you will probably find that the drum is not rubbing when you turn it - as well as tapping it with a soft headed mallet to assist in centralising the shoes. Maybe a big/long story, but it does seem that you will not be happy until you can turn this drum-hub freely after you have been working on it.

To be honest, I've always just gone to a VW Group dealership and got them to order in the correct parts, I seem to remember that the bolts that VW Group use to secure brake callipers, have a built in "locking" element on the flanged bolt heads, so as I've always only replaced discs at a reasonable age of any cars, I've ordered in new bolts when planning to replace the discs, for me, that makes good sense. If I remember to look for part numbers, I'll update this posting. Edit:- part seems to be N 907 085 04 which is an M12 X 1.5 X 35mm flange head bolt.

Its a strange website to get onto, initially I saved its complete address on a MS laptop with Win7 then Win10, then they changed something so I could not get back onto to, but I also had an iPad and so used that for this website, then they changed something and/or Apple did and I lost being able to get onto it, some weeks later after another MS update, I tried again on my Win10 laptop, and got onto that site easily again, then something changed again and I could not use my latest saved link, so now I select that old link, then remove the details after the "/" and I'm back in again. That website does seem to be kept up to date very well, which helps when phoning any dealership or CCP for parts.

Try using this parts listing:- https://ifinterface.com Once you are on that site, click o the "welcome" area, followed by "free services" followed by "CarProg2" then select Skoda from the VW Group marques listed, then Fabia then date of manufacture then select body and eventually you will find the rear hatch and the part number you need. It is not rear hatch that you need to look for within the body which is section 8, but the "glasses and seats" section within section 8, ie 845-000, you can move to that area directly by navigating via the top line.

Yup, I was wrong on all the cars I mentioned. I wonder if my wife's 2015 VW Polo still has its "item 3" - or has it dissolved completely yet.

Humm, I find that too many times I post a reply without fully/deeply/repeat reading things, I try to improve!

It is the front fog lights that are being discussed here, so the speed thing is because these cornering lights, or cornering lights function using the front fog lights are only for use at slow speeds, same for many modern cars. Edit:- at actual point that this function is inhibited si closer to 30MPH/50KMH.

Oh, on same age Polo and late 2009 Ibiza, and probably on 2015 Polo, the lower mounting point has a welded nut and a bolt, so the welded nut sounds like it has broken away from the lower fixing point.

I think on this age of Fabia/Polo/Ibiza, ie the cars with electro-hydraulic steering AND static cornering lights, there is the usual steering sensor in the rack for the steering assist support, and a second steering angle sensor under the steering wheel, used only, in these cars, for switching these static cornering lights or function. As you know this function is inhibited at higher road speeds - so yes this sounds a lot like a faulty "under steering wheel" steering angle sensor, a stupid SEAT dealership replaced that on my daughter's previous car - a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza, but when I complained that it was not cause of my reported fault and I wanted the assembly back to examine it, all I got was "when you remove them they fall/spring apart so there is nothing to check" - oh well, I tried, that sensor cost quite a lot back in 2017 and an hour's "calibrating" it to the car, I seem to remember that after that happened, there were a few of these sensors, NOS available on ebay, the "calibration sequence I'm sure can be done via VCDS, ie Basic Settings and directed moving of the steering wheel. Edit:- I asked my mate last night about his son's 2005 VW Polo that switched its maybe LHS front fog light on with the lights - he claimed to have sorted this out as he had spotted that one of the rear light clusters was full of water - so he emptied it and the front fog light stayed off - though I'm sure that old 2005 Polo does not have static cornering lights. He is trying to buy a rear light cluster seal kit cheaply, I have suggested that the problem is just the outer "cover" of that cluster is de-bonding from the body, is clean it up and run sealer round it.

II bought a 30mm bi-hex deep socket for the rear hub on a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza. Also I seemed to buy a Laser Tools one, part number 0924, but I'd think that any impact quality deep bi-hex deep socket would work, they seem to be easier to get hold of than deep "normal" sockets. Edit:- I was not willing to gamble on a normal depth socket would be okay so went for a deep one, Halfords and Machine Mart sell them as will many many other places - and online.

Fair enough, be sure to come back with what the cost was and in general what that indie's thoughts were on replacing the belt etc at this age/mileage.

I'd think that the "LEDs last for ever" is only true for the actual LED chip(s), the weak area will be the rest of the system that constitutes an LED light assembly, and with domestic mains LED lights it will be the mains convertor that is built into these domestic light bulbs. I'm thinking that in general average domestic use, a life of 5 years is good going, I've forgotten when I changed all our light bulbs to LED, but I'm well through the first round of failing bulbs, maybe I'm a bit sad, but when I replace LED light bulbs now, I write the start of use date on them - so that I can find out exactly how long they last.