rum4mo

@Ruthieroo , any update on this issue - feeding back into forum threads after asking and getting advice is always a good plan.

@faxiw , any progress or update on this issue yet?

@nta16 MAP please, not MAF and there are a couple of them. True about the better cleaning properties of the UL+, but even increasing the Octane rating of the fuel might quickly reveal a change which might help sort this "fluffing" activity. When I had that very slightly with my wife's 2015 same engine Polo, maybe because I had had that with the previous 2002 Polo 1.4, I was extremely quick in spotting it - but maybe after a single tankful of UL+ it went away and so far stayed away - why/how I don't know, but it does not do that now at all - and I will quickly feel it when/if it returns - a really horrible feeling especially when these 1.2TSI engines, well at least the 110PS version, are brilliant in terms of drivability and fuel economy.

Have you tried running it with a full tank of UL+ - maybe even Esso, to see if this improves things while you are using it or even if this "goes" away after using a tank of UL+? I'm sure that my wife's 2015 Polo 6MT with that engine code ended up at round about 50,000miles, with a slight hint of that - that really worried me, but I loaded up with a full tank of UL+ Esso and it disappeared, car now at just over 59,000miles and excluding that tank full of UL+, is now back to fuelled with Costco UL. My wife's previous car - a 2002 Polo 1.4 75PS 5MT did have a bit of that, but after replacing the EGR valve - no change, MAP sensor - no change, oil separator - it ended up not being very good at trapping oil, it seemed to run better especially if I used UL+ in the tank. Horrible feeling when you have that! Edit:- what is the mileage?

Hum "flexible-ish" black plastic tubing, oh dear - progress! I suppose that you buy a similar product and a suitable joining piece and fit the new tubing to the light/jet and make the join well back inside the body of the car. Edit:- one version is 6V6 956 663 or another 6V6 956 663 A probably depend on the age of your car, maybe estate pipe is longer, it seems to be quite cheap. I'd hope that you can find and buy a joining piece so that you can fit the new hose end to the high level brake light housing jet and just splice in a shortish section and form a join back within the car's body area and so well away from the rear hatch hinge point. Another Edit:- just a typical ebay link Windscreen Washer Pipe Repair Kit - SKODA FABIA - 2000 - 2019 - Tube Fix | eBay UK

I can't think of a good easy way to find any or all the leak sites on a fridge system, yes if you are lucky you will find "damp" area(s) where the system oil has escaped along with some gas charge. After that it will be up to using a pumped sniffer and/or an acoustic sensor, then adding in some dye and pressure of Nitrogen. The system pressure sensors have always tended to end up leaking - or at least many do - and then there is the evaporator - having a leak in there would a bit annoying to sort out.

Also consider that it might just be a damaged ABS sensor cable - maybe damaged when you were working on the suspension.

Sounds like a cooling fan(s) controller issue - how long did they run for, I'm just asking that as it sounds like them running did not flatten the battery - could this also be due to an electric cooling pump failure which is allowing a local area to be at a high temperature, and that area is a sensor where part of the fan controller gets triggered from?

I’d change the one on the inlet plenum/box first, and I’d doubt if both sensors will have a failed temperature probe. Parts in Motion via their ebay store are very easy to deal with and fast despatch and so fast delivery in my experience.

Parts in Motion list for £23.24 It is a Bosch part and both VAG and Bosch part numbers are listed on it, Ie 03G 906 051 E and 0281 002 977

I’ve just edited my previous post.

I’ve forgotten what/where the 3) one is, it might even be the same part number as 1). Plus I’m not a home at the moment. Ideally you would check to see what 1)’s signals are using a scan tool. Edit:- I’d guess that 1) and 3) are MAP sensors so both contain a temperature sensor, 1) monitoring the Turbo O/P and 3) monitoring the inlet manifold box near the cylinder inlet.

1) is the intake charged air sensor 2) is the brake vacuum sensor

I've read on these forums that you can't even give these ABS magnetic rings a sideways glance without causing them damage - but now that you have been able to actually see a bearing with hopefully a magnetic ring on its inner face - you've probably worked out that usually they are able to look after themselves okay. If you feel the need to clean these wheel sensor bores up a bit better, what I'd do - and I did when working on both my wife's Polo and my S4, was to record the depth that should be safe for you to run a 10mm drill down - remember that these sensors are only "full size" for part of their length, follow any reaming with the drill bit with maybe brake cleaner to wash the crap out and away while rotating the hub. Just hopefully a worthless question - did you make sure that both hub-bearing assemblies had ABS sensor magnetic rings on the inner face of these bearings - maybe not too easy to spot? Maybe even confirm this by checking the actual part numbers from their packaging. Now if you had access to a "good" VAG compliant scan tool, you could "watch" each wheel's road speed - to see if it was correct and consistent. Edit:- actually seeing as you know it is the front right hand side ABS sensor, you must have a scan tool, sorry for making that error.

One thing to bear in mind when quoting the use of WD40, many years ago, WD40 was only ever sold as their "water dispersant" and general lubricant offering, nowadays, WD40 and plenty other "old names/brands" do send to market many other service fluids which are individually intended for use in specific areas of a car etc.

ABS wheel speed sensor getting damaged - not unexpected when replacing the wheel hub/bearing assembly. Slightly curious to me, that it was the RHS one as that was the one that I trashed when replacing both hub/bearings - but I had already spotted that the "finger" of that ABS wheel sensor was canted over after I had got that bearing out. So, now you "just" unplug and unbolt that wheel sensor - and then probably fail to to be able to pull it out - then end up snapping it off! Not a problem, just drill down into the remains and take a "red hot" MDF type screw (ie a screw with big grippy threads" - and push that down into the hole that you drilled, then give that screw a full 1 > 2 complete turns, then cool that area down so that the plastic hardens back up, then yank that screw+sensor up and out of that hole in the knuckle. You should be luckier than I was with my 2011 Audi S4 as it has aluminium uprights/knuckles and your car has iron knuckles so the crap that is locking that sensor in its location is a lot less nasty than the really crap crap that is aluminium salts! Clean the sensor hole out with a 10mm drill bit - that should give you enough room to push the new sensor down into its location, maybe apply some high temperature wheel bearing grease to the "upper" end of the new sensor to make life easier for the next time/person!

Yes, brake fluid should get done, the AC could wait until it lets you know by starting to underperform and/or makes hissing noises when being used. I'm sure that someone out there will have fuel use figures that can show that slightly under gas'd AC will use slightly more fuel, when used, to achieve your desired temperature - but how many miles you would need to travel to use the slightly increased fuel before that meets or exceeds the cost of a "AC regas" I would not even try to guess! So, if I were you, I'd stick with "is it good enough right now?" if the answer is yes, then give it another year before asking yourself the same question. Edit:- by the way, all car HVAC systems do leak slightly over time down to the different parts being connected using "rubber" piping which, to all these AC gases, are porous to a certain extent - not much can be done to stop that until more suitable piping or AC gas is used.

Last week, while using my wife’s 2015 VW Polo and having American relatives in the back seat, my cousin’s husband had opened the RHS rear window (hot day, car’s AC has lost its gas), then started muttering about his window doing this! Me fearing the worst, thought “great we’ll need to use my car when going out tomorrow”! Anyway after the doom and glow faded away, I used the switch on my (driver’s) door and held the window switch up for a while - success! That guy was not wanting to open that window again but next time it was okay, but failed the following time. I hadn’t thought about stiffness through lack of use, I’ll try using some nylon etc lub!

Ideally you'd want these track rod ends back bolted up to the hub knuckle s doing that helps stabilise this while you fight with the locking nut - but I think that you have said that you have damaged the thread on the TRE taper/post - is there not enough useable thread there to relocate it even using washers as packing so that you can get it nipped up? Maybe this is where these "bovine" spanner extenders come into play, I gambled on buy a single one to see if they work okay, all my spanners are what you could call "good quality" so no danger of something nasty happening if I snap one using this "bovine" addition to my tool kit. I was pleasantly surprised to find that they can be very useful especially when needing to deal with bigger "torque to yield" fixings that you can only access with a hex ring spanner!

Good stuff, in my early days with VW Group cars I did buy genuine VW Group "star" retainer clips - but not now, anything else cheaper gets used, I seem to saving the last of the genuine ones for - I've also started buying in "repair patches" for when the aluminium heat shields "dissolve" locally - but that should take maybe 8 or 10 years for them to reach that point. It could be that Skoda has not moved onto using the plastic flange nuts - yet. I've checked the VW section of the parts listing and WHT 000 173 is the plastic flanged nut that fixes these plastic under covers AND - probably only for initial assembly, gets retained in place in the cover by the 2 "lips".

Always anti or counter clockwise to slacken things - except for when your dealing with left handed threads - which you are not here.

These "star" fixings are a pain in the bottom! VW used to use them on all the undercovers on the 9N Polo for instance, I always used to keep a few spares for when checking them at service time, later VW Polo 6C uses plastic nuts that have a flange that locates into the "retainers/clips" on that undercover recess, well they do that for where there is not a heat source nearby - where there is heat they use the "star" fixings, and the "brilliant" thing is, the heat shields have aluminium in them - so right away there tends to be a "squabble" between the steel of these clips and the aluminium in the heat shields and both lose out - the aluminium heat shield "dissolves" locally and the "star" fixings does what they do best which is to rust away to nothing!

Yes there is, Sealey for one provide one, and there will be offers I'd reckon. Edit:- using "spark plug lead removal tool" as a search term in eBay and other places should reveal all.

It will not be a "wingnut" that you need just a plastic nut that has a built in "washer" shape to retain in the clips moulded into the covers - I'd think. Edit:- if it is just a plastic nut that is missing, p/n WHT 000 713 Hexagonal Collar Nut Plastic should be what you need. Another Edit:- or in that position it will be a clamping washer WHT 003 386 and, it seems a clamping washer N 903 350 04. - Scrub these last 2 numbers as they are for the exhaust heat shield, I can't see any "fittings" associated with that rear undercover, maybe check to see that a bit has not broken off before trying to order any fixings.

Going to a Skoda dealership's workshop to sort this out is the only way that you might get any help money wise from Skoda. So really the choice is yours to make, try to get it sorted out FOC via warranty at a Skoda workshop and hope not get hit with lots of "out of scope" extra costs, or take it to a proper car HVAC specialist and get it sorted and maybe maybe end up paying less. Life can be a bit of a gamble at times.