rum4mo

You could always buy a new either plain or one with a bit red + plastic cover for the +ve battery post and move that one to where it is intended to be on the -ve battery post. My wife's 2015 VW Polo was sold to her with no battery post covers, so I ordered up a couple amongst a few other bits VW ZA chose not to fit to it! Edit:- I'll bet buying that genuine VW branded Varta AGM hurt your wallet quite a bit, how old was the original and was it an EFB or AGM? I have just bought a new Bosch AGM for my S4 and that is 10 years old and I'm just being cautious it is a 92hr 850Amp EN CCA and it cost £156 and manufactured by Varta. Edit:- one other thing, from your photos of your battery installed in your car, the top of the +ve post is exposed and will remain exposed even if you buy a second post cover and swop them over, my wife's 2015 VW Polo has a removable shaped black plastic cover that covers that area of the +ve battery post up and so along with the usual flat cover, completely covers up the +ve battery terminal and lead - which in my mind is always a wise thing to do to protect the +ve or "high" battery terminal until that lead has been protected by fuses further along the system.

I suppose that car actually has the visual aspects of a car with that feature fitted, ie the radar tx/rx panel on the front?

I've never found any good reason to move away from what VW Group used at the factory in terms of spark plugs, I've used Bosch frequently in the past when running "bangers" and Bosch plugs were as cheap as chips in Asda though. One point I'll make here is, while a company or brand can claim to be an OEM supplier to any car manufacturer, it will tend to use that claim to support it being chosen for replacement parts for areas of that car that it never ever was a factory supplier for. I've bought many Bosch power tools and at least even when used for light duty as a DIYer, some of their stuff is really nasty and built from unknown supplier parts - battery drill motors being one!! Horses for courses really, I think nothing of buying Bosch wiper blades, COPs I only tend to buy what was originally fitted same for drive belts. So that means NGK for spark plugs and Lambda sensors for me then.

Yes, handy when your foot was doing nothing else, also Ford Escort MK1 had a rubber bulb(pump) on the floor for the windscreen washer fluid, surrounded with a ring for switching the single wipe on - very handy just even for the single wipe if your left foot was doing nothing else! Vacuum wipers, I think that Renault tried that silly game as well, what were they thinking about!!

I can see the logic in it getting connected to ODIS and so to Skoda mothership, that would be sensible so that the service records are also updated on Skoda's database. The issue with trying to change from flexible servicing to fixed servicing could be causing a problem just because the service person does not frequently get this request and so has forgotten the procedure - remember they will just be "one click monkeys" anything requiring a bit more effort will be a tech's job.

If you have checked it with VCDS did it not offer a code that could point to one or the other, and what were Rosstech's suggestions for this code being logged. Yes the BXW engines tended to get quite noisy! One thing about removing the charge pipe, at least with the 1.2TSI 16V engines, VW Group official workshop manual points out that the sealing O-ring at both ends of that pipe should never be reused, and I discovered that I had ended up causing slight oil mist creeping out of the TB end onto the charge pipe body, so after reading about "never reuse the O-rings", I got my local VW garage to order a pair in, I cleaned the charge pipe ends up with brake cleaner, fitted the new O-rings after applying a slight "wipe" of new engine oil over the surfaces to aid seating/sealing - and the TB end of that pipe is again moist with oil! The fact that these O-rings needed to be ordered in and not held in stock means that not many people are bothering/needing to take that charge pipe off - I only initially removed it at 4 years and 30K miles, to make my life easier when replacing the spark plugs, there was no sign of oil mist on that TB end of that pipe before that!

My wife has a 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS - so the later 16V belt driven cam shaft version of the 1.2TSI, I removed the turbo charge pipe when replacing the plugs and there was some oil in that pipe, so like you I wiped it clean. I don't think that you will ever avoid any oil ending up working its way through to the inlet manifold on of these engines, I would not expect that you will notice any oil usage between services, well not enough to require you to top up the engine oil level.

Good news, so I'll stick to my original plan to fit TT/R32 solid rear mounting bushes when the time comes! I did the same thing on my wife's last Polo a 2002 1.4 16V 75PS, well in that case got Ibiza Cupra solid rear mounting bushes though it had the older "consoles" set up.

Yes, I had read your other thread first, so just commented about that in this thread as I noticed it in that video

Something about this rings a bell, but well established VW Group Indies taking on this work, by now will have bought in all the required tooling, as many 12TSI 16V and similar 1.4TSI 16V petrol engined VW Group cars will have passed through their workshops for this work to be done. General all marques workshops might not yet have geared up for this work, so that could have been a fair comment/warning you were given.

I've just checked online on the UK based website that I bought my "B" version plugs from, and while they still quote the original "A" pack and plug numbers, further down the page it quotes that it has been revised to the "B" version.

My wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and it came from the factory fitted with NGK PZKER7A8EGS which it seems is known when in a trade pack of 4 plugs as NGK 94968 When I replaced them, at the 4 year point I think that this plug had been revised into PZKER7BEGS which when sold in a trade pack of 4 plugs is called NGK 93231 - though it does seem strange that an "improved" version of plug results in it going from a trade pack reference 94968 down to 93231 - but maybe such is life! Finally, I would think, if all the above is true, that if you tried to buy in NGK 94968 you would get supplied NGK 93231. I hope that helps, I used a Google search to find out what "NGK 94968" was in terms of the actual spark plug product type number, the facts about the newer version or alternative version comes from using a VW Group parts listing which showed that the VW Group part number also changed to reflect the change in the NGK product type version numbering, and what I ordered was what the latest NGK website said was correct for that car - from my online sparkplug supplier, I did not receive aftermarket NGK labelled spark plugs, but genuine VW Group same plugs. Bother your 90PS engine and my wife's 110PS engine use the same spark plugs.

Your has not got a remote CD player has it, in my wife's 2015 VW Polo, I used to heard what I considered to be the glove box mounted CD player performing a quick maybe tracking arm re-cal - though either now I'm not listening for it or it has stopped doing that for some reason, maybe even an "within warranty" software update. Edit:- the windscreen washer action in the first vid clip does not look to be what you want from them.

VW Group have changed the washer spray designs a few times over the years, after the later "mist/fan" spray heads there were the "3 jets" which you could make out the 3 small jets on the spray heads, then a better "fan" spray head, VW Group introduced these changes at different times across the marques and within each marque's models. Lots and lots of people have changed the type of spray heads over to improve things, so far I have not found the need on the 2011 S4 or the 2015 Polo, nor have I worked out which variant is in each car.

Good, maybe chat to your supplier of the previous ones in case they can organise a refund and maybe that would force the manufacturer to improve their design or at least dimensioning/tolerancing.

There is tool available to remove and replace these bushes, some quite cheap versions on ebay, I seem to remember buying one for when I finally need to replace these bushes, probably with the Golf R32/TT ones.

If it has the original 1.2TSI 8V engine, check the cam chest purging valve to make sure that it has not got a snapped off stub where it is inserted into the engine top.

SEATs tend to be same, ie at least with RHD cars, the bonnet release is on the passenger side, VW and Audi have them on the driver's side for RHD cars.

No in this weather the cooling fan would not normally be running, I agree with what @TerFarsaid, ie in colder weather when the engine is not being asked to do a lot of work, it will not not be dumping enough waste heat into the coolant to keep up with what you are removing to heat the cabin.

I think that I bit the bullet and spent a bit of time making quite a few "repair washers" to have ready for the next time, beans tins for me too!

Normally only a person or workshop that has fully licensed VW Group diagnostic tooling can carry out this task properly as the car needs to be connected to, in your case, Skoda mothership, if that replacement unit is second hand and not reported stolen then it can be re-assigned to your car.

Yes, it seems like quite a "reasonable" proportion of people with EFB and using their cars for short journeys have ended up needing to replace their EFB, I think that with longer and frequent journeys even these EFBs along with Stop/Start can last lot longer, I'm keeping an eye on the EFB in my wife's 2015 Polo and hopefully find the point when it needs changing before it lets us down. There was also a quality/life issue with some brands over a manufacturing period, I seem to remember that that Polo has an Exide EFB.

Oh, that is not good, so the sensor is in the reservoir, bother that!

I've never ever had any trouble with a VW Group car brake fluid level sensor, but I'd think that it is just a float switch. So, if that is correct, after disconnecting the connector, remove the cover-sensor assembly and connect a DVM across the connector pins and see if moving the float fully up and fully down changes the state of the circuit through the sensor contacts, if it doesn't then you need a new cover-sensor.

I don't think that the inspection period changes, but maybe you didn't mean that it does, so normally Inspection is carried out every other year. With variable servicing, it all depends on how you use the car as the oil change warning could appear after 15Kms or up to 30Kms. Fixed servicing just changes things so that the oil change warning comes at 15Kms or 12months (or maybe even 375 days), many people like to keep the oil change period to a maximum of 15Kms and 365days especially as the car gets older. You know the old saying "oil is the life blood of your engine", maybe not essential but a reasonable way of doing things to help look after your engine. Edit:- my guess at 375days could be wrong, 372days maybe as said earlier!