rum4mo

Jurid is what VW fitted to my wife's August 2015 Polo with ATE front brakes (288mm), though I've never ever bought Jurid stuff, I seem to remember that the front pads have VW Group ID on them + ATE + Jurid, so that is why I'm thinking that at least VW Polo got ATE assemblies but ATE got the pads from Jurid. I'm not near the point of needing replace any pads or discs yet, only 34K miles.

@barratt32, does your car have rear disc brakes or rear drum brakes? If it has rear disc brakes you should see the shiny disc swept surface through the wheels, if it has rear drum brakes all you will see is a mid grey or rusty coloured brake drum. Now, if it has rear drum brakes, maybe that car has never ever had its brakes serviced, so as the brake dust builds up, the chances of the drum brakes sticking on in wet weather increases sharply - even more than the normal sticking that happens with rear disc brakes.

15" alloys even fit over 288mm front discs, well VW ones fit over same version of Polo with 288mm front discs - not much clearance with 15" alloys, but enough as that is what I use on my wife's 2015 Polo in colder weather with winter tyres.

Are you sure that that is the main water pump that gets driven off the back of the exhaust cam shaft, and not just the charge cooler electric water pump?

Lots of these battery based jump packs use a Hill Billy golf trolley battery, I've replaced my one once over the past 20 years though it only tends to be used as a 12V DC power source for a tyre pump and a high speed mini drill, I only needed to use it once on a late 2009 Ibiza that had a battery draining issue that was due to a S/W issue - and it did its job okay! An ex-work acquaintance had a flat battery during the first lockdown, my advice to get him going was to walk to his local Halfords which had a battery based jump pack in stock, charge it fully and use that, part of his trouble was that his car was in his garage and that garage has no mains power. Well that got him back running again, then he chose to save space and buy a compact jump starter a GOCO GB40, having that meant that he managed to help quite a few of his neighbours to get their "under used" cars started during the first lock up. Then he gave in with his car's original battery and went to a fast fit place and they fitted a new battery very cheaply! A few months later, probably when the weather got colder at the start of this winter, he is back to needing to use his small jump starter, and has now discovered what was fitted to his car by that fast fit place, ie an inferior and much lower capacity battery! So maybe he has learned a few lessons, first to get prepared for this as it was always going to happen if that car was going to be used only once a week for a very short shopping journey, and second to make sure that if your car has its original battery in it, find out what its Ah capacity is and its CCA - and only ever buy same again or bigger as it sounds like too many battery places want to get "your" business by selling you the smallest and so cheapest budget battery. I think that his spend so far has been roughly £40 + £100 + £80, the £80 probably equates to what Tayna would charge £40 for, not good. I'd probably love to have one of these compact starter packs - but I'd think that I could end up being disappointed, even after buying a "good" one. My own car is 10 years old in February, so based only on that, I have bought a replacement battery as I don't want to end up in trouble when away from home - if we ever get released to get away from home.

Now that you have bought the extra tools needed, doing it every 5 years/50K miles sounds like a plan that will work well for you. My wife's Polo 1.2TSI 110PS was new in August 2015 and is only at 32K miles, so I'm planning on leaving it for another year and a half - or so. Was the tensioner also in good condition? Maybe a new auxiliary belt at the same time.

Yes, exactly the same battery size and type as my car, UK prices for many car parts are very high when compared with other European countries, maybe that is partly to blame for the vote to leave EEC went the way it did, it could have been avoided if governments had talked seriously about things - well maybe, now too late for that and UK must move on. Edit:- things are probably not s simple as I'm suggesting, maybe a battery costs the same in both countries when compared with how many hours wages of the average worker it costs in each country across Europe.

Good enough, if only I was still brave enough to do that, something has always stopped me manning up to changing cam belts on my own cars! I've changed toothed belts on other machines though, but they didn't have pistons and valves to contend with!

I agree with the comments about always connecting jump leads and charging leads only using the battery +VE post and the body earth bonding domed nut, I've cleared the paint off a couple of the points and coat them with Vaseline when not using them, to protect it from corrosion. Also, as said you would need to use a current meter to check for current drain after the car had shut down all its usual systems, as well as ideally having a battery tester to check its CCA or cold cranking current delivery ability. These stop/start cars have smart charging and so will only ever attempt to make sure that the battery will restart the car, as opposed to to keeping the battery fully charged, so checking the battery with a voltmeter while the engine is running could leave you a bit confused - the plan is to stuff lots of charge into the battery only when on the over run, in a bid to save wasting fuel/emissions.. The car's own systems namely the BMS area within the CAN-Gateway(probably) holds many statistics on the battery, or its interpretation of the car's battery, if you had a VAG compliant scan tool, you would be able to check these channels or fields - a dealership could do that but would probably just drop a new battery and hope that solved this problem. Battery prices, I bought a new 95Ah AGM battery for my 2011 Audi S4, the best price I could get for a Bosch S5 013 was £153, an Audi dealership would have sold me one I'd guess, for £385 and "only" charge me £100 for swopping the batteries and recoding the BMS for that new battery, so in my case, it has cost me £153 instead of £485, maybe battery prices are a bit lower for you, I have priced a new EFB and AGM battery for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS SEL and the "next size up" is cheaper but still over £100 for the AGM version. At 32K miles, that August 2015 VW Polo EFB is still working okay but its BMS stored statistics claims its present storage capacity has dropped to 37Ah from its original 59Ah, so it is dying slowly, but not yet a problem, stop/start normally gets switched off by me when driving it, and it gets connected to a CTEK charger/maintainer after only being used for a short shopping trip, ie only 10 miles and when not being used for maybe a week, so it has been looked after very well all its life.

It is a bit annoying that this sort of problem has been known about by VW Group for at least 20 years, there used to be a lot of this going on with VW Passat B5 models and leaving everything in place and spraying in cleaner around the steering wheel centre usually washed out enough of the metallic particles. So, now I'm ready for when my wife's 2015 Polo plays up, or maybe not as it normally has its wipers set on "auto" as that car has "rain sensing" so hopefully a lot less wear going on on that stalk.

Hydraulic transmission jack, hummmm, I'd think that you would need to either be working over an inspection pit or have that car quite high up in the air to benefit from having and using one of them. I've replaced front springs on Polo and Ibiza 3 times and I have not got a hydraulic transmission jack. So, short answer, no you don't need one of them.

Once you have the callipers off to change the discs etc, or even before, lever the ball-end of the cable out of its slot in the calliper handbrake lever - then try moving each lever, that will tell you if it is the levers that are stiff and so need cleaned and free'd up, or the cable. I don't think that you will notice much from a bowden cable while one end of it is free from its normal "load".

Hi, I've never had this problem on a VW Group car, but to cover some of your list 2) fuses are either okay as far as the fusible part is concerned or it has blown open circuit. 3) stalks can go bad, but I thought that this applies to newer cars usually. 4) when the spindle bearings start to run dry with age etc, the wipers usually start to slow down quite a bit before thermal overload etc kicks in - have you noticed that the wipers sweep a lot slower than they used to, if so that would be a very cheap and easy fix to make? Also as no doubt you know, there is a remote controller that switches the voltage to the wiper. I think that you will need to work your way through all your listed options, all you need to do with respect to the fuses is to make sure that they are all fully seated in their slots, maybe a bit of a worry that you have had a major power issue though, hopefully that has not caused this (controller).

So, correct me if I've got the wrong end of your stick, so if looking for better performance overall, people should always plan to retro fit the basic 256mm brakes? That does not sound like a good plan, braking system weight will always increase when you increase the size of discs and callipers, so no surprise there unless you look into buying lighter weight bigger brake kits.

Okay, I've only ever checked any of the smart controllers using VCDS, though, when I cast my mind back, the main reason that I bought VW Group cars with the auto version of HVAC, was for its inbuilt self diagnostics ability - then bought VCDS and never used the auto controller to check for faults or adapt flaps.

I have not ever taken too much notice of how things work, but, the centre vents can be controlled individually by manually opening or closing them, so I think only the vents and directions that can't be manually controlled, are the only ones that get controlled from the auto HVAC control panel - ie like the "feet" ones and the "face" ones. My lack of knowledge about this is that typically, outside mid summer period, the 2 centre vents stay closed and the 2 outer ones get directed to the side windows.

I'd think that there is also the possibility when when Jo Public (the customer) is engages with someone that is quoting "what the computer said" it is just too easy for them, the customer, to do an auto translate into something they, the customer, either understands or has heard mentioned elsewhere so "power switching" or "power management" both become PSU - of course in the same way, the "technical" side of the desk might have tried and failed to dumb down "what the computer said" in a bid to make the average customer understand it.

I would very much doubt that, every car marque and model version CAN be different depending on the design detail in the area of that calliper. I've always saved myself pain and time wasting by buying the correct part.

Preferably replace the bolts as they are "one time use only" as the "+90 degrees" is taking the bolts into their yield/stretch zone - and you don't want to do that more than once. Possibly debatable if the 40Nm +90 degrees on the bottom bolt will be giving it much stretch - but as you asked, replacing them will be the better plan. I'm guessing that your buffer/bump stop has biodegraded as that material does seem to do very quickly, I've always replaced both sides doing that means you don't need to revisit this bump stop breaking issue again.

I agree, at 4 years old and just under 30K miles, my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS's old plugs looked "as good as new" but I did replace them and the air filter as recommended by VW Group for these engines.

@Chris67, yes I agree with you on its likely location, all I know that on the 2000 VW B5 Passat, it was dash out or remove LHS wing and cut an access hole, which did not sound like a plan. I get the impression from random exposure to VW Group matters, that you can access it after removing the glovebox - though someone on this forum must have needed to replace that flap motor by now. Does Google not return some "handy" guides if not for Fabia, maybe Polo 9N3 or Ibiza 6L?

I'm not aware of anyone reporting bonded mounting bushes issues/failures on any MK1s onwards.

I'm sure that you checked the rear coil springs while the dampers were being changed - did you?

You should check the oil level before running it again, just in case fuel has been getting into the engine oil and raised its level enough to cause the engine to run from the fuel-oil mix getting into the combustion chamber.

Maybe not the answer that you asked for but, from my experience of buying a Lambda sensor for a relatively "recent" model of car, I'd just buy from a VW Group dealership, they would get you the correct part and at a similar price if you bought the genuine but not VW Group branded same part elsewhere. CCP (contact via facebook is best) will get you the correct part at a good price and it will be a VW Group part. Before posting this, I looked up the NGK website as their NTK brand covers these sensors and is or was a VW group factory supplier, and these 1.2TSI 16V engines do not exist in their catalogue! I found the same when checking up on the NTK part number years ago for a BBY engine, which I only found listed under SEAT, but this time this 1.2TSI 16V is not listed under any VW Group marque. Was I correct in that this engine is a 16V and so its code is CJZC or CJZD ? I think that the second sensor will be easier to deal with as it is out in the open so access is better, it is down stream so not subject to so much heat, also if it is the same as earlier cars, there will be a plastic box mounted on the body quite close to where the sensor is mounted on the exhaust, so the sensor lead will be quite short so handier than feeding it around the engine - that plastic box houses the plug<>socket for that sensor. Edit:- just a thought, you have not run over something and damaged its cable?