rum4mo

Remember to now buy a second buzzer - I found it easy to find one on ebay, I have no idea what the dealer charges for one of them, but buying a used one, at least for me meant that the plastic fixing expanding rivet(s) came with the used one - though I had played safe and ordered in a couple of new expanding rivets from my local VW dealer. Depending on which side of the car your new harnesses were meant to run down, you might need to remove a front wheel arch liner to run the final section of the rear>front behind it, I bought some sort of toothed stretchy cable ties to fix the cable to the existing cabling behind the front wheel arch liner, and you might even need to cut into the deformable foam strip in front of the crash bar, to keep the final section of the bumper cable safe - in the case of my 2011 Audi S4 Kufatec ran the cabling down the opposite side of the car, and so the front bumper, to where Audi did it at the factory. I also made sure that there was enough "slack" or free cable left on the carbody side to allow any repair workshop to move the front of that car out into the service position without damaging your rear>front harness.

I suppose by buying the made up harness you are removing all the working out of the lengths of the runs and branch off points, also the Kufatec harness wiring is all made using numbered wires, or at least wires with numbers printed on them at frequent intervals. I checked both the harnesses out pin to pin before fitting them into the car, something I was later glad that I did when it came to altering some lengths. Kufatec don't use, or didn't use coloured wiring just thin insulated numbers slate grey cabling, I already had a roll of sticky fabric tape for wrapping bundles of wires up exactly the same as VW Group and Kufatec used.

Ah fair enough, good that you confessed! Yes the cornering lights thing, I seem to remember that when you start the car up switch lights on, then select reverse, initially both fog lights switch on, then as more steering input is applied, one goes out - first time I saw that was with my daughter's old late 2009 SEAT Ibiza - I thought that she had accidentally switched on the fog lights!

I noted that I got the reels of wire from "Vehicle Wiring Products LTD" and the Micro Timer 2 contact pins etc from "3waycomponents" via ebay.

Here is a strange thing, remember to watch out if you quickly reply to a posting more than once, lots of these forums "behaviour monitoring systems" will come to the conclusion that either or both of "you" are being TROLLs - it has happened to me once and all I and another poster were doing was quickly helping each other out! I think that it was this forum and I received a friendly warning about my behaviour!

Ah, some people are using VW Group model platform designations like 8K to mean 8 channel, not good, a bit misleading, I'm glad that you have bought a suitable one, ie a 5Q version as long as it is only looking for 3 rear sensors! Edit:- one completely insignificant comment, Audi offer I think 3 different colours of sensor seal - ie you can pick one that best suits the car's body colour, I think BLACK and WHITE and NEUTRAL, my wife's VW Polo is silver and VW, like Skoda only offer a single colour - BLACK!

Also, to put your mind to rest, the water pump is at the over end of the engine and is belt driven by its own small belt, if that belt breaks the worst that will happen is that the engine temperature will increase, so not a big problem and that small belt probably has a longer service life as it only drives the water pump. I don't mean to alter your way of thinking, but the cambelt in this family of engines is not considered by VW Group to have a defined service life - like most previous cambelts in other engines, it should be examined at every service after maybe year 5, and action taken as and when it shows signs of wear. I have been examining this belt on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS at every service since year 2 and it still looks "like new", my original reason for checking things in that area stems from some few people having issues with the inlet camshaft assembly securing screws slackening off, I plan to leave off changing that belt until 7 > 8 years and so 50K miles have passed, and not waiting until that belt shows signs of aging/wear. The listed 5 years/**K miles change period stems from improvements that upped the previous cambelt change from 4 years/##K miles, VW Group marques will argue that it makes more sense to hand out one set of instructions covering all models, instead of handing out engine type/version bespoke servicing advice/instructions. Changing that belt at 5 years could be the safest option but quite a bit of overkill for that exact family of petrol engines, VW Group should be monitoring what advice their approved workshops world wide is handing out to customers and not just allowing them to be taking as much cash in as possible.

I'd think that the reduction to only 3 rear sensors will be down to trimming costs down as far as possible. When I retrofitted the front PDS/OPS to my 2011 Audi S4, Kufatec used the same parts as Audi would have used in factory, but for the later ie B8.5 version of Audi A4, they used the same "older" set of parts, which I thought was strange but maybe easier and cheaper for them to supply as a kit. In the case of the Audi B8 S4, Audi ran the cabling down the LHS of all cars ie both RHD and LHD, but the Kufatec kit is made to run down the RHS of the car, no big problems there, maybe even makes the fitting easier, the "rear to front" cable was okay length wise, maybe even slightly too long at one section, but the front bumper cable form might have been kay for the later B8.5 Audi A4 but it was too short at at least one section, so I bought in a couple of reels of wire - 2 different gauges to match the existing Kufatec cable form, and cut and spliced the cable form, staggering the cuts/splices to keep the resulting cable form a sensible bundle size. The Kufatec kit for some reason used and supplied I think 9-way joining connectors for the 2 supplied cable forms - but there are only 6 wires, so I changed these connectors for the 6-way ones that VW Group use. For securing the sensors to the bumper cover, I bought VW Passat maybe B6 sensor brackets, there were 2 types available, a flatish version and a slightly curved version, I only needed the outer sensor brackets so chose the slightly curved version as they suited the shape of the bumper at these points - also there was plenty internet chatter about who had used what. Again, VW Group and most aftermarket suppliers supply double sided sticky tape to fix these sensor mountings to the bumper cover - I wanted this job to be a "one off" visit, so I used a structural Araldite bought from Halfords locally and okay that was overkill, but these sensor mountings will stay on! I'm not knocking Kufatec as their cables were a very good starting point and so saved me buying all the connectors pins and wiring - I came away from that task with a new small tool box dedicated to car wiring, which could come in handy in the future! You mentioned "8K" parking controller, that sounds a lot like being what gets used on Audi B8 as that car is an 8K* platform and so an 8 channel controller, how will that work with 7 sensors? Can you not buy the Skoda Fabia version of parking controller used with rear+front with OPS, my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI SEL comes with rear+front+OPS so I will not need to do anything to it, and having driven that car with full PDS/OPS was what made me "improve" the parking sensors on my S4 - only remaining issue is, while the factory fitted system in the Polo will always switch the front sensors on when you approach a wall etc, the retro fitted version in my S4 will not auto switch on approaching a wall etc - which is something I need to remember! The S4 retro fitted system will always auto switch on starting from a parked position though.

I've done this retro fit on my 2011 Audi S4, and it all worked out well first time, cutting the holes in the front bumper was stressful but only as I had never done that before in the past, on most VW Group cars, the inner face of the front bumper has an X marking the sensors locations. You will need an extar buzzer as well, again very cheap on ebay. Some coding will probably need doing to change the PDC into a display within the screen, I have VCDS so did my own re-coding. If you fully integrate it into the car, the infotainment system will also need re-coding to include any options pertaining to OPS and buzzer sound level.

All I can say is, this is not an unknown problem, thought I have not read what the root cause turned out to be, apparently, my best friend's son's 2005 VW Polo has a similar problem, but that brings on one front fog light when the lights are off but the engine is running - but that son is too busy to let anyone try to find out what the root cause is! I suggested that as a first stab in the dark, he removes the light switch, though that would not work in your case!

I also just follow logic and start at the longest pipe run and work back to the shortest, I use a turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir first, without removing the strainer, running maybe 0.5LTR out of the OSR to try to clear old fluid out of the reservoir and longest pipe run, followed by 0.3LTR out of the NSR, followed by 0.2LTR out of the OSF and same out of the NSF. unfortunately that accounts for a bit more than 1.0litre, but that is my method. I don't flush out the ABS block because I'm lazy and the quantity of fluid held within it is small when compared with the system capacity so it will not degrade the new fluid by much - and I always replace the fluid every 2 years. The clutch, unfortunately gets ignored - as tends to be the way many people do. I tend to always buy either the correct spec of VW Group brake fluid, or same from TRW which means a slightly more modern spec than the basic DOT4 which came about before many cars had ESP etc - but that is just my choice of brake fluid. Edit:- one thing to be aware of is, the bleeding of brakes procedure laid down by VW Group, seems to be the same for all marques and models and the quantities of fluid to be drawn from each wheel bleed point is the same regardless of model size - so just a standard set of instructions written by a technical author and copy and pasted into all the marques models maintenance routines - so deep thought or consideration being gone into, so a routine operation, although the VW Group script says to start at the front/shortest pipe run - though I'll stick with my method, and some others, of starting at the longest pipe run. No need to run the engine for any reason, and probably safer not to run it while carrying out brake bleeding.

The system is an indirect tyre pressure monitoring system, so that means that it monitors the frequency of the ABS sensors on each wheel and flags a warning if one or two or three change. This system needs to build up a data profile, so anytime you start experimenting by dropping the pressure of one,the warning will not normally be instant. I had a warning on my wife's 2015 VW Polo last week, things "felt" okay so I continued until I could safely stop, got out and checked all four tyres and they looked and felt okay, so continued enjoying our day! Next day I checked all the tyre pressures and the ones on the RHS were 0.5PSI lower than the ones on the LHS - but one side of the car was in shade and the other in bright sunlight, so all good. I'm suggesting that you have had a "ghost" warning, it can happen, I've had a few false warnings with this car and my own, every time I've stopped and checked the tyres visually and checked the pressures as soon as convenient. You show be checking all your tyre pressures once a week or at worse once a month, if adding any air then you must go into the TPMS section and reset it.

My comments probably predate the advent of LEDs fitted into car lighting cluster, or as everyone "knows" LEDs last for almost ever - if these light clusters are designed and built correctly. Probably just a matter of time before a small business starts up offering a repair service - an opportunity for someone to fix some lights, maybe.

So, starting from the beginning, I'm assuming that your car needed a new front damper, so you fitted compressors to the spring, removed the top nut and mount, and fitted them to the new damper and that was when your problems started? If that is correct, then maybe examine the difference between the old damper and new damper lower spring platform. Other things that can cause springs a bit of grief is if the top bearing is seizing up, but normally the twanging comes from the top and the bottom stays seated correctly. Most of these springs are tapered and so compressing them and releasing the compressors needs to be done while helping the lower end of the spring get onto and stay on it final position in the spring platform, though trying the spring on the damper before compressing it would allow you to see if it was possible that everything could fit together properly later on.

Aye, yes also that, I have yet to read a full write up from a trusted source that defines the need for the "mit silikat" teabag in the coolant tank or any only some cars/engines and if there is any link with which version of coolant is also associated with it being present, ie G12++ or G13 or G12evo or even it seems G13PLUS+! There are other marques that are also fitting these siliate pouches or more typically a proper porous sealed casing, an idea that maybe VW Group should have thought of using instead of their early "teabags" which too many owners have found to end up with failed welded seams so the silicate granules come out and get the blame for adding to the risk of blocking the heater matrix. I could be wrong but it seems it is mainly diesel engined cars that are suffering most from this, and it I think, is them that had issues with casting sand being left in the water ways. Even some SEAT Leon Cupras, MK3, have these "mit silikat" coolant tanks, and then some don't - though VW Group have always just fitted "what was in stock" in the factory, many with G12 printed on them had G12+ or G12++ fills at the factory, just all a bit messy - like having default battery details in the CAN-Gateway, just sloppy and cheap. Edit:- don't forget SEATs though, many MK3 Leon owners are going through this expensive repair at the moment - with no sign of any shame or goodwill from their dealer!

Yes, I was impressed to find that my mates T-Roc and my daughter's Leon Cupra both had the exact battery details stored in the "battery data" area of CAN - Gateway. My experience of Johnson Controls, or JCL was when they supplied controllers for factory heating/cooling systems in the '70s, any alterations to the setting meant the local JCL guy being called in! Later they hovered about while "trendy new wave" thinking meant that many operations units outsourced their facilities managements and staff to JCL, said to be a win-win situation, normally it was not leading to a downwards spiral of effectiveness of all facilities which constantly lead to loss of essential facilities only resolved by throwing money into "projects" to repair equipment that had been correctly maintained by our company's resident maintenance squad at a time of our choosing - I think most of that could be seen to have been the outcome from day one, but progress is always "good" - or is it!

If it makes any difference, I tend to use a complete 1ltr can of brake fluid when changing brake fluid, maybe if planning to carry out a fluid change, you should consider how much you should "vent" out of each wheel cylinder/calliper than only think about system capacity.

Hum, my mate has a 1975 SAAB 96 for fun, he has run used SAABS since 1975, so, many 96s + a few 95s, + 99s, 900s, 9-3s and 9-5s, and right now, he is trying to arrange for a 900 convertible to be transported up to Ayrshire from London! He never ever had a 9000 hatchback though maybe a couple of the sedan versions.

Oh dear, Skoda just as sloppy as VW when it comes to adding battery data in the assembly line! JCB is Johnson Controls, they seem to get credited as building batteries for many brands it seems! I thought EU regs had forced car makers to design all the "legal requirement" lights to be able to have bulbs changed at the side of the road with tools supplied with the car.

Maybe send Laser Tools an email on that subject, they do respond quickly, I've needed to talk to them about something a year or so ago. What you are suggesting does make a bit of sense, I've only ever used my Sykes Picavant one on a 2000 VW Passat and a 2002 VW Polo, but I do know that when I replaced a calliper on that 2000 Passat, the Pagid or TRW refurbished calliper seemed to have a different lead screw pitch than the original, meaning that I needed to adjust the cable length on one side - not the best fix, replacing these callipers in pairs would have worked better, but I knew that I was not holding onto it for long.

There has been a lot of chatter concerning using Copper grease in some situations, I bought Copaslip Furnace Bolt Anti-Seize grease about 40 years ago and always used it on wheels and contact points on brake callipers, but with the increasing bad tales about Copper grease, I've finally bought the Aluminium equivalent grease for the hubs on my cars which both have alloy wheels, and bought Ceramic brake grease for callipers. If nothing else my tin of Copaslip will last a few years more! I've even hear plant maintenance people saying bad things about Copper greases, I suppose it depends on how long you leave it undisturbed, I used it mixed up with WD40 for jig fixing bolts that tended to be temperature cycled thro up to -65C > +115C but they got removed every 12 months for maintenance purposes and always were easily removable and not corroded. I'd never ever apply anything like greases to the threads of car wheel bolts, I just have a die - and if necessary a tap to clean them up once a year at service time.

I would never use an impact driver on a plastic bleed valve, probably why I've never ever changed the clutch system fluid along with the brake fluid over the past 20 years and 6 VW Group cars. Some VW Group cars have the plastic fluid vent valve fitted to a short section of pipe - and I can think of a very good reason why they do it that way!

I'd be very wary about adding talc into locks etc where there is already an oil/grease based lubricant - it is okay for dry "self lubricating" movements like bigger door locks if you must, but not for these car locks, graphite is okay but very messy when it ends up on your clothes.

I like the reference to the Corona virus making this happen more, very much using all "the tools in his box" - 10/10 almost! My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS is at 37K and its rear discs and pads are still good, maybe a spot of spirited driving is needed to fully clean up the rear discs, but so far so good, all our previous VW Group cars Polos, and Passat have needed new discs in early life then the replacements, Pagid fitted by me, have lasted a lot longer. My 2011 Audi S4 seems to have got all its discs replaced due to vibration before it was a year old, and the genuine Audi discs and pads are still good, the discs are spotless - which kind of surprises me! I like the way the Skoda workshop includes new disc fixing screws, I'm sure that experience has shown that people don't get their brakes serviced until they give trouble so these screws can be tricky to remove - I have always serviced all my car brakes and have never ever ended up with these screws being tricky to remove, in fact, I used to buy in stainless steel screws to quickly replace the factory fitted ones and put a spot of anti-seize grease on them and the hub centres, but that novelty seems to have stopped as I've never found them to be tricky to remove at disc changing time. I agree that lack of work being handed their way is causing the corrosion on the rear discs, but for me, keeping rear discs serviced and so in good working condition is far easier than messing about with rear drum brakes and their seizing up pivots etc.

Good, I'm sure that in USA at least, garages/battery outlets have focussed on this "battery needs coding to car" as a proper money earner, maybe even $100+ being a typical charge, lovely stuff for the battery outlets! It will not just be VW Group that are doing this, I'd think that when BEM first appeared, many if not all modern cars makers ending up needing to do this.