rum4mo

If you have had drums/discs off you need to make sure that the hub surface is clean as is the same area on both sides of the drum/discs, also, I have a few large nuts and washers that I can fit over the wheel fixing bolts to simulate the "thickness" of the road wheels and tighten all 5 wheel bolts up - by doing that you know that the drum/disc is "sitting" down as it will be once the road wheel is back on - then you will probably find that the drum is not rubbing when you turn it - as well as tapping it with a soft headed mallet to assist in centralising the shoes. Maybe a big/long story, but it does seem that you will not be happy until you can turn this drum-hub freely after you have been working on it.

To be honest, I've always just gone to a VW Group dealership and got them to order in the correct parts, I seem to remember that the bolts that VW Group use to secure brake callipers, have a built in "locking" element on the flanged bolt heads, so as I've always only replaced discs at a reasonable age of any cars, I've ordered in new bolts when planning to replace the discs, for me, that makes good sense. If I remember to look for part numbers, I'll update this posting. Edit:- part seems to be N 907 085 04 which is an M12 X 1.5 X 35mm flange head bolt.

Its a strange website to get onto, initially I saved its complete address on a MS laptop with Win7 then Win10, then they changed something so I could not get back onto to, but I also had an iPad and so used that for this website, then they changed something and/or Apple did and I lost being able to get onto it, some weeks later after another MS update, I tried again on my Win10 laptop, and got onto that site easily again, then something changed again and I could not use my latest saved link, so now I select that old link, then remove the details after the "/" and I'm back in again. That website does seem to be kept up to date very well, which helps when phoning any dealership or CCP for parts.

Try using this parts listing:- https://ifinterface.com Once you are on that site, click o the "welcome" area, followed by "free services" followed by "CarProg2" then select Skoda from the VW Group marques listed, then Fabia then date of manufacture then select body and eventually you will find the rear hatch and the part number you need. It is not rear hatch that you need to look for within the body which is section 8, but the "glasses and seats" section within section 8, ie 845-000, you can move to that area directly by navigating via the top line.

Yup, I was wrong on all the cars I mentioned. I wonder if my wife's 2015 VW Polo still has its "item 3" - or has it dissolved completely yet.

Humm, I find that too many times I post a reply without fully/deeply/repeat reading things, I try to improve!

It is the front fog lights that are being discussed here, so the speed thing is because these cornering lights, or cornering lights function using the front fog lights are only for use at slow speeds, same for many modern cars. Edit:- at actual point that this function is inhibited si closer to 30MPH/50KMH.

Oh, on same age Polo and late 2009 Ibiza, and probably on 2015 Polo, the lower mounting point has a welded nut and a bolt, so the welded nut sounds like it has broken away from the lower fixing point.

I think on this age of Fabia/Polo/Ibiza, ie the cars with electro-hydraulic steering AND static cornering lights, there is the usual steering sensor in the rack for the steering assist support, and a second steering angle sensor under the steering wheel, used only, in these cars, for switching these static cornering lights or function. As you know this function is inhibited at higher road speeds - so yes this sounds a lot like a faulty "under steering wheel" steering angle sensor, a stupid SEAT dealership replaced that on my daughter's previous car - a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza, but when I complained that it was not cause of my reported fault and I wanted the assembly back to examine it, all I got was "when you remove them they fall/spring apart so there is nothing to check" - oh well, I tried, that sensor cost quite a lot back in 2017 and an hour's "calibrating" it to the car, I seem to remember that after that happened, there were a few of these sensors, NOS available on ebay, the "calibration sequence I'm sure can be done via VCDS, ie Basic Settings and directed moving of the steering wheel. Edit:- I asked my mate last night about his son's 2005 VW Polo that switched its maybe LHS front fog light on with the lights - he claimed to have sorted this out as he had spotted that one of the rear light clusters was full of water - so he emptied it and the front fog light stayed off - though I'm sure that old 2005 Polo does not have static cornering lights. He is trying to buy a rear light cluster seal kit cheaply, I have suggested that the problem is just the outer "cover" of that cluster is de-bonding from the body, is clean it up and run sealer round it.

II bought a 30mm bi-hex deep socket for the rear hub on a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza. Also I seemed to buy a Laser Tools one, part number 0924, but I'd think that any impact quality deep bi-hex deep socket would work, they seem to be easier to get hold of than deep "normal" sockets. Edit:- I was not willing to gamble on a normal depth socket would be okay so went for a deep one, Halfords and Machine Mart sell them as will many many other places - and online.

Fair enough, be sure to come back with what the cost was and in general what that indie's thoughts were on replacing the belt etc at this age/mileage.

I'd think that the "LEDs last for ever" is only true for the actual LED chip(s), the weak area will be the rest of the system that constitutes an LED light assembly, and with domestic mains LED lights it will be the mains convertor that is built into these domestic light bulbs. I'm thinking that in general average domestic use, a life of 5 years is good going, I've forgotten when I changed all our light bulbs to LED, but I'm well through the first round of failing bulbs, maybe I'm a bit sad, but when I replace LED light bulbs now, I write the start of use date on them - so that I can find out exactly how long they last.

Remember to now buy a second buzzer - I found it easy to find one on ebay, I have no idea what the dealer charges for one of them, but buying a used one, at least for me meant that the plastic fixing expanding rivet(s) came with the used one - though I had played safe and ordered in a couple of new expanding rivets from my local VW dealer. Depending on which side of the car your new harnesses were meant to run down, you might need to remove a front wheel arch liner to run the final section of the rear>front behind it, I bought some sort of toothed stretchy cable ties to fix the cable to the existing cabling behind the front wheel arch liner, and you might even need to cut into the deformable foam strip in front of the crash bar, to keep the final section of the bumper cable safe - in the case of my 2011 Audi S4 Kufatec ran the cabling down the opposite side of the car, and so the front bumper, to where Audi did it at the factory. I also made sure that there was enough "slack" or free cable left on the carbody side to allow any repair workshop to move the front of that car out into the service position without damaging your rear>front harness.

I suppose by buying the made up harness you are removing all the working out of the lengths of the runs and branch off points, also the Kufatec harness wiring is all made using numbered wires, or at least wires with numbers printed on them at frequent intervals. I checked both the harnesses out pin to pin before fitting them into the car, something I was later glad that I did when it came to altering some lengths. Kufatec don't use, or didn't use coloured wiring just thin insulated numbers slate grey cabling, I already had a roll of sticky fabric tape for wrapping bundles of wires up exactly the same as VW Group and Kufatec used.

Ah fair enough, good that you confessed! Yes the cornering lights thing, I seem to remember that when you start the car up switch lights on, then select reverse, initially both fog lights switch on, then as more steering input is applied, one goes out - first time I saw that was with my daughter's old late 2009 SEAT Ibiza - I thought that she had accidentally switched on the fog lights!

I noted that I got the reels of wire from "Vehicle Wiring Products LTD" and the Micro Timer 2 contact pins etc from "3waycomponents" via ebay.

Here is a strange thing, remember to watch out if you quickly reply to a posting more than once, lots of these forums "behaviour monitoring systems" will come to the conclusion that either or both of "you" are being TROLLs - it has happened to me once and all I and another poster were doing was quickly helping each other out! I think that it was this forum and I received a friendly warning about my behaviour!

Ah, some people are using VW Group model platform designations like 8K to mean 8 channel, not good, a bit misleading, I'm glad that you have bought a suitable one, ie a 5Q version as long as it is only looking for 3 rear sensors! Edit:- one completely insignificant comment, Audi offer I think 3 different colours of sensor seal - ie you can pick one that best suits the car's body colour, I think BLACK and WHITE and NEUTRAL, my wife's VW Polo is silver and VW, like Skoda only offer a single colour - BLACK!

Also, to put your mind to rest, the water pump is at the over end of the engine and is belt driven by its own small belt, if that belt breaks the worst that will happen is that the engine temperature will increase, so not a big problem and that small belt probably has a longer service life as it only drives the water pump. I don't mean to alter your way of thinking, but the cambelt in this family of engines is not considered by VW Group to have a defined service life - like most previous cambelts in other engines, it should be examined at every service after maybe year 5, and action taken as and when it shows signs of wear. I have been examining this belt on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS at every service since year 2 and it still looks "like new", my original reason for checking things in that area stems from some few people having issues with the inlet camshaft assembly securing screws slackening off, I plan to leave off changing that belt until 7 > 8 years and so 50K miles have passed, and not waiting until that belt shows signs of aging/wear. The listed 5 years/**K miles change period stems from improvements that upped the previous cambelt change from 4 years/##K miles, VW Group marques will argue that it makes more sense to hand out one set of instructions covering all models, instead of handing out engine type/version bespoke servicing advice/instructions. Changing that belt at 5 years could be the safest option but quite a bit of overkill for that exact family of petrol engines, VW Group should be monitoring what advice their approved workshops world wide is handing out to customers and not just allowing them to be taking as much cash in as possible.

I'd think that the reduction to only 3 rear sensors will be down to trimming costs down as far as possible. When I retrofitted the front PDS/OPS to my 2011 Audi S4, Kufatec used the same parts as Audi would have used in factory, but for the later ie B8.5 version of Audi A4, they used the same "older" set of parts, which I thought was strange but maybe easier and cheaper for them to supply as a kit. In the case of the Audi B8 S4, Audi ran the cabling down the LHS of all cars ie both RHD and LHD, but the Kufatec kit is made to run down the RHS of the car, no big problems there, maybe even makes the fitting easier, the "rear to front" cable was okay length wise, maybe even slightly too long at one section, but the front bumper cable form might have been kay for the later B8.5 Audi A4 but it was too short at at least one section, so I bought in a couple of reels of wire - 2 different gauges to match the existing Kufatec cable form, and cut and spliced the cable form, staggering the cuts/splices to keep the resulting cable form a sensible bundle size. The Kufatec kit for some reason used and supplied I think 9-way joining connectors for the 2 supplied cable forms - but there are only 6 wires, so I changed these connectors for the 6-way ones that VW Group use. For securing the sensors to the bumper cover, I bought VW Passat maybe B6 sensor brackets, there were 2 types available, a flatish version and a slightly curved version, I only needed the outer sensor brackets so chose the slightly curved version as they suited the shape of the bumper at these points - also there was plenty internet chatter about who had used what. Again, VW Group and most aftermarket suppliers supply double sided sticky tape to fix these sensor mountings to the bumper cover - I wanted this job to be a "one off" visit, so I used a structural Araldite bought from Halfords locally and okay that was overkill, but these sensor mountings will stay on! I'm not knocking Kufatec as their cables were a very good starting point and so saved me buying all the connectors pins and wiring - I came away from that task with a new small tool box dedicated to car wiring, which could come in handy in the future! You mentioned "8K" parking controller, that sounds a lot like being what gets used on Audi B8 as that car is an 8K* platform and so an 8 channel controller, how will that work with 7 sensors? Can you not buy the Skoda Fabia version of parking controller used with rear+front with OPS, my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI SEL comes with rear+front+OPS so I will not need to do anything to it, and having driven that car with full PDS/OPS was what made me "improve" the parking sensors on my S4 - only remaining issue is, while the factory fitted system in the Polo will always switch the front sensors on when you approach a wall etc, the retro fitted version in my S4 will not auto switch on approaching a wall etc - which is something I need to remember! The S4 retro fitted system will always auto switch on starting from a parked position though.

I've done this retro fit on my 2011 Audi S4, and it all worked out well first time, cutting the holes in the front bumper was stressful but only as I had never done that before in the past, on most VW Group cars, the inner face of the front bumper has an X marking the sensors locations. You will need an extar buzzer as well, again very cheap on ebay. Some coding will probably need doing to change the PDC into a display within the screen, I have VCDS so did my own re-coding. If you fully integrate it into the car, the infotainment system will also need re-coding to include any options pertaining to OPS and buzzer sound level.

All I can say is, this is not an unknown problem, thought I have not read what the root cause turned out to be, apparently, my best friend's son's 2005 VW Polo has a similar problem, but that brings on one front fog light when the lights are off but the engine is running - but that son is too busy to let anyone try to find out what the root cause is! I suggested that as a first stab in the dark, he removes the light switch, though that would not work in your case!

I also just follow logic and start at the longest pipe run and work back to the shortest, I use a turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir first, without removing the strainer, running maybe 0.5LTR out of the OSR to try to clear old fluid out of the reservoir and longest pipe run, followed by 0.3LTR out of the NSR, followed by 0.2LTR out of the OSF and same out of the NSF. unfortunately that accounts for a bit more than 1.0litre, but that is my method. I don't flush out the ABS block because I'm lazy and the quantity of fluid held within it is small when compared with the system capacity so it will not degrade the new fluid by much - and I always replace the fluid every 2 years. The clutch, unfortunately gets ignored - as tends to be the way many people do. I tend to always buy either the correct spec of VW Group brake fluid, or same from TRW which means a slightly more modern spec than the basic DOT4 which came about before many cars had ESP etc - but that is just my choice of brake fluid. Edit:- one thing to be aware of is, the bleeding of brakes procedure laid down by VW Group, seems to be the same for all marques and models and the quantities of fluid to be drawn from each wheel bleed point is the same regardless of model size - so just a standard set of instructions written by a technical author and copy and pasted into all the marques models maintenance routines - so deep thought or consideration being gone into, so a routine operation, although the VW Group script says to start at the front/shortest pipe run - though I'll stick with my method, and some others, of starting at the longest pipe run. No need to run the engine for any reason, and probably safer not to run it while carrying out brake bleeding.

The system is an indirect tyre pressure monitoring system, so that means that it monitors the frequency of the ABS sensors on each wheel and flags a warning if one or two or three change. This system needs to build up a data profile, so anytime you start experimenting by dropping the pressure of one,the warning will not normally be instant. I had a warning on my wife's 2015 VW Polo last week, things "felt" okay so I continued until I could safely stop, got out and checked all four tyres and they looked and felt okay, so continued enjoying our day! Next day I checked all the tyre pressures and the ones on the RHS were 0.5PSI lower than the ones on the LHS - but one side of the car was in shade and the other in bright sunlight, so all good. I'm suggesting that you have had a "ghost" warning, it can happen, I've had a few false warnings with this car and my own, every time I've stopped and checked the tyres visually and checked the pressures as soon as convenient. You show be checking all your tyre pressures once a week or at worse once a month, if adding any air then you must go into the TPMS section and reset it.

My comments probably predate the advent of LEDs fitted into car lighting cluster, or as everyone "knows" LEDs last for almost ever - if these light clusters are designed and built correctly. Probably just a matter of time before a small business starts up offering a repair service - an opportunity for someone to fix some lights, maybe.