rum4mo

I got a similar reply from them when I asked the question, though they did say that they had talked to VW Group about this and were assured that the driver will get adequate warning indication and so so stop quickly. They did add, back then, that as it currently did not trigger any action going by their prescribed guidelines for taking action, they would still be keeping an eye on how often this was occurring - and considering any change on possible future action based on that. So I'll always advice that owners report to them every time this happens. Edit:- I'd hope that there will be a tipping point where/when DVSA do demand action from VW Group before someone gets fried.

I'd think that the only way to get anything from VW Group at some time in the future, will be to report this failure via the DVSA website - doing that might, just might, eventually get UK Gov to point a gun at VW Group over this issue!

I think that generally the consensus is to run with fixed servicing periods, yes you'll probably get more miles/£ (of your service costs) by running with flexible - but other wear and tear items might need extra cash in an unpredictable way. Flexible servicing usually only works for new cars that get high usage - then moved on after a couple of years.

Yes, a version of Krytox has been the correct "thing" to use on these door seals to stop this sort of noise AND freezing up in tricky winter conditions. VW Group call it gummi pflege.

I'd think that ferrite beads on the supply wire could help - Skoda dealership should have known that this would be an issue as lots of people on VAG motoring forums have been reporting it for years.

@thamestrader yes I know that but it seems like replacing the fluid can allow any circulating "bits" to get dumped out - while VW Group maintain it is not required. I was only speculating that having the fluid changed might, just might have meant avoiding this issue - although if it is the accumulator developing cracks then nothing would have avoided that in the initial build of the Mecha unit. Edit:- though you are talking about aspects of DSG use that, as someone that has yet to use one, has always concerned me, maybe without any good logic or reason.

My mate told me today that his April 2019 VW R-Roc 1.5 150PS DADA's DSG - which will be the DQ 200 (dry clutch), at roughly 67,000 miles, handed out its first trans fault warning this week, his DIL who tends to use it most of the time, lost all drive, pulled into the side of the road, cycled the ignition and that sorted that out - for now. It has been taken out of use until it can get looked at. From what he told his VW Group Indie workshop, they are speculating that it will be a case of mecha unit out and sent away for repair - and they said "don't drive it now". Would oil and fluid changes have avoided this, who knows, probably just another accumulator casing failure! Cars of that age were meant to have benefitted from a slightly increased accumulator wall thickness, so maybe so other failure.

Not much wrong with messing with cars when you are 76, keeps the brain active with the many challenges you meet and hopefully beat! Edit:- a big 👍 to getting it sorted though.

I think that "he came, he asked a few questions and got some help" - now he has no need to bother!

I was in my local Skoda dealership to collect a new Lambda connectors mounting bracket as I broke a tang on my wife’s 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI while replacing the post cat probe - so I just opened my wallet and bought a new filler cap seal. The parts guy said that this seal does not move quickly - the one that I bought had been waiting to get bought for about a year!

I've read many times that you can easily work out which one is faulty - by listening to them - that has never ever worked for me over a total of 6 VAG cars! VCDS does let you know which one has failed, as will a few other VAG compliant scan tools. So, has anyone successfully managed to find the faulty one by listening to them while they are operating? Second "detection" option is by feel, ie finger tip - again, doesn't work for me annoyingly!

Yes the water pump is on the gearbox end of these engines. Prompted by the picture of the broken key blade, I checked up on the Skoda parts list for this age of Fabia - and the key blade is not available as a spare part from Skoda - surely that is crazy as it is fixed in place by a tiny spiral pin! So that just leaves buying a new blade from another source and no doubt there will be plenty even although aftermarket key blades, its seems, are made from harder material - so cutting it to suit the car's locks will be harder on the key cutting machine.

You really need to find out where the coolant is leaking from, you can't just blame the reservoir for leaking unless you already can see that it is. Maybe include your engine type/code.

Compression test next, just to establish that pistons/cylinders are okay.

@thamestrader , get in there quick and change the "29 inch rims".

You really do need to find out what the car thinks is wrong to bring that light ON. It needs scanning using a fully VW Group compliant scan tool - such as VCDS or Carista etc, and take it from there.

I think that what happened was, VW Group or their coolant supplier BASF, became a bit more environmentally aware and so "greened" the coolant and so G12++ became G13, some time after this, VW Group or BASF became aware that for some engine version uses or at least the typical working temperature was causing enough silicate to get depleted to cause concerns. This was addressed by "sort of" providing silicate pouches for some model/engine combinations - so some models/engines were sent out with the "Mit Silikat" reservoirs while at the same production/sales periods, some cars were sent out without these pouches in the reservoirs. While my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS - factory filled with G13 aged, it was sent out without a silicate pouch in the reservoir, the ph level in the coolant changed quite quickly - compared with my older daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra - factory filled with G13, which has a "Mit Silikat" reservoir - so these pouches do seem to do what they need to. I think that VW Group was gaining info about this G13 as time went on, and if they had had enough info on G13 in the 1.2TSI 16V engines, that 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS would have been sent out from the factory complete with a "Mit Silikat" reservoir!

Surely just "knowing" the car and knowing the correct hose colour will work for you. Or stick a "PETROL ONLY" sticker on the outside of the fuel cover - or even the inside of that cover.

One thing that I will add, if you are keeping this car for "a while", if it still has G13 coolant in it, it should get replaced with G12 EVO as it was only G13 that needed the Silicate pouches to add Silicate back into the coolant as it was being depleted in use, especially with certain engines/temperatures. G12 EVO does not need this which is why "Mit Silikat" has disappeared from newer VAG car reservoirs. Some people will say that it's easy to work out which coolant is in the system by checking its colour - I can't say that I'm 100% certain that I can/could, I've replaced the G13 with G12 EVO in both our cars - more due to the car's/coolant's age than anything else.

That -40C seems to be a default value, ie in your case that sensor/wiring is not sending back a temperature signal - ie open circuit due to a broken wire or similar. How do I know that, well I have an issue with a post cat Lambda probe, and while I was sniffing around with VCDS (August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS), I discovered that the temperature (actual) of the radiator return coolant was -40C in summer with a warmed up engine - Crasher put me right to that, just a memory location that should not be viewable on that car/engine combo. I'd guess that the extremely high temperature is just due to a short circuited lead(s). I think that means that the temperature sensor element will be NTC. That issue with the high pressure fuel rail bolt breaking - you should really report this to DVSA - you should be able to find a link on their site for reporting this sort of safety related issue as high pressure petrol spraying out into an engine bay while the engine is running - or not, is not really acceptable, DVSA know about this issue but will never do anything about it in terms of demanding that VW Group perform a full re-call and rectification program, really because not enough people are reporting this. Exactly what is the age of your car? Edit:- ignore that request for car age, you'd already given that out as being 2016!

I'm guessing that the new calliper when fitted along with new pads, was free to rotate when everything was "buttoned up". If necessary fully retract the calliper, I know that recon'd callipers come with the instruction that they have been already correctly retracted and so don't do anything to them - but I've always redone the "fully retract" just in case and not had any issues.

Did you ever buy and fit this new pressure sensor - I'm just curious! Probably missed the boat for this year's hot weather in Kirby though - AC is good to have at any time of year.

Some one might correct me, but if you don't already know, it tends to be the heads of the backing plate covers that get bonded with rust to the backing plates, once that bond is broken you should find that the threads are clean and the screws can be unscrewed by hand. Stupidly I considered that the same situation should/would be the same when taking the disc dust covers off my 2011 Audi S4 - not so, some design clown made sure that one screw hole was open at the back so I snapped one screw head off - I only did that on one side! Edit:- ah yes, the one that is tricky to get a tool onto - I had properly established what the correct size/version of bit was to fit onto the easier ones, then using the correct 1/4" bit, got that fitted into the cleaned out recess in that screw head, then wedged/jammed it down in there by driving maybe 2 small screwdrivers between the lower face of the hub and the top of the 1/4" hex bit - then used a small adjustable spanner to turn the 1/4" hex bit - that worked for the tricky one on each side.

To get you started on part numbers, I've checked what I ordered for a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS a few years ago, and it looks like your 2011 Fabia 1.2TSI uses the same "72mm" front bearing assembly complete with ABS pick up ring. The VW Group p/n started as being 6R0 407 621 A and that was superseded by 6C0 407 621 and that has been superseded by 6RD 407 621 A. Now, when I ordered my bearing assemblies a few years ago, the FAG offering was 713 6104 and the SKF offering was VKBA3569 - of course with time FAG and SKF might have revised their offerings. Each of these aftermarket kits comes complete with a new plastic dust/debris shield and a new hub nut. It might also be time to check the condition of the disc back plates as they will be getting removed to do this work - I spent an hour of so cleaning mine up - threw some black paint on them - then just bought new ones as in reality there was not much good steel where it needed to be!

Better to remove the newish ABS wheel sensors before using a Gen2 kit on these bearings - I got away with it on one side but not on the other side! It was just the typical "from China" copy kit that I bought, just make sure that you line everything up so that you apply the force "in line", failure to do that, in extreme cases, will end up with the kit's thrust bearing track snapping - so it seems from someone on another forum, you can buy new thrust bearings on ebay though, I needed to do that when I snapped a bearing track on the lower arm rear mounting kit! Edit:- I ended up buying a couple of bearing assemblies from autodoc it was FAG that I chose. I had already checked on the FAG website that I was ordering the correct bearing. Probably other places selling FAG in UK now at a good price, it was Tayna that I used when buying SKF wheel bearing packs for my 2011 Audi S4 as they had them at the right price.