rum4mo

Maybe, from my experience, you should get a VW Group Indie to remove the CP - as they should be "okay" with doing that, Skoda etc official dealerships will probably hand out a list of reasons why they "can't" do this, or would rather not carry out this task for you. The proviso is always as long as it has not been logged as being stolen as Skoda etc mothership will not allow that change in status to be made - also bear in mind what @pab567 has written, from memory, a local VW Group Indie only charged my 0.5 hour labour to carry out that task, but I had made sure that the unit I was changing to should be acceptable to my car - a 2011 Audi S4, so I can't comment wrt your swopping unit part numbers. Just remember if this "new" unit is faulty or not fully compatible with your car after it has been allocated to your car, you will need your original unit's CP removed as it will now not be your car's one.

It sounds a lot like conditions are not being "set" for the starter motor to run/engage, and mainly I'd think, that will come down to the DSG selector assembly. Having an AGM battery from factory is unusual for a small petrol engine, the battery management part of a controller should have been configured to reflect that AGM battery being fitted, it would be useful if you had a suitable scan tool to check what the car thinks is fitted to it now in terms of battery technology and capacity. This will be a separate thing to the failure of the start motor to run - or be asked/enabled to run. Edit:- again having a suitable scan tool like VCDS would let you check if "starter enabled" was being "set" when you tried to start the car and it refused to activate the starter motor. I would have hoped a proper workshop would have checked this, I can understand why they would whip out the AGM and fit a "correct" battery - but again I'd hope that they would have checked which type and size of battery the car had already been set up for prior to them changing the battery.

The charge pipe that I was referring to is the one that is nearest the gearbox end of the engine. From memory, you are meant to use a bespoke tool to "spring out" the retaining bands on that pipe - as opposed to the usual "pipe clip" pliers or even water pump plier that get used to remove the tube associated with the air filter assembly. I just thought, when I changed the plugs the first time, that taking that charge pipe off would improve access and so minimise the possibility of any plastic bits getting damaged - so when I replaced the spark plugs the second time, I also replaced that charge pipe and so replaced the O-ring seal at both ends.

@goatus , did you take the "charge" pipe off to reach cylinder 4 coil and so plug? If so, maybe you have torn/damaged the sealing ring either at the turbo outlet end or the throttle body end. The workshop manual does state that these O-rings should be replaced if that charge pipe is removed. If there is a leak there, eventually some traces of engine oil/mist will start to build up on the end which is leaking slightly.

I was surprised to get just over 60MPG on our morning rush hour 10 miles commute to "child mind" our older grandson today, car is a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT 58,000miles and E10 fuel, fitted with Michelin Alpin winter tyres, "winter support kit" in the boot and the ambient temperature was 4.5C. That figure is easily achievable in warmer weather when on summer wheels/tyres and no "winter support kit" in the boot - but not normally gets over/past the 60MPG in winter time.

Better not to try using Imperial taps and dies on Metric stuff as that would only compound your troubles. Note that I only ever use these taps and dies to clean up threads and never to cut new threads. If I need to cut new threads I use “proper” quality taps and dies.

You know what, it is at times like this that you might consider buying a suitable set of taps and dies. I've been there done that, but quickly thought "f' this" and headed out and bought a suitable set of taps and dies, in my case, from Screwfix, which is still all intact and very much in use. So that means that I tend to wire brush, then clean any exposed threads using a die before adding in release oil. From memory, is the partial blocking of the ARB link nut by the car "bits" not just down to whither or not you have the car jacked up or still resting on its wheels but with them on ramps? Edit:- I've even, before buy a suitable set of taps and dies, ended up with the Torx bit ending up expanding the section of the thread out beyond the where the nut starts from - and that really was a show stopper forcing me to chopping the end of the thread off and so trashed that ARB drop link. In my years of working on 2002 VW Polo 1.4 , 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 and 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, I've never ever found any of the drop links to be worn - which was a bit annoying for the 2002 car that I ended up chopping the end of one drop link and fitting new VW parts, the 2009 car got its original drop links refitted so the bought Febi replacements are still available, the 2015 car currently has its original drop links refitted to it, the new VW drop links are still available, but maybe I'm frightened to fit them as THEY COST A BOMB - warning, the VW Group drop links should never be bought if you can help it as buying them will hurt your wallet!

I feel that you are trapped in as much as you can't personally implement this change, which if you bought a suitable scan tool and swopped over to a AGM even an AGM "next size up" and acquired the knowledge, you could. I'm only guessing here when I say that I'd think that after the warranty had expired, a proper VAG Indie workshop would make these changes for you when you explained why you felt that "like for like" was not going to work for you for long. Also, I not sure how anyone could survive with a small EV town car, unless they had it connected to a charger while not in use, if they only used it for short journeys. The key in both cases is availability to an electrical outlet to get and keep the 12V battery in a good state of charge. Edit:- personally, every time that I've bought a new car or even a slightly used car with manufacturer warranty, I was keen for the time to pass so that I could do what I thought needed doing to my cars without any complaints or threats from the dealership.

I agree with what you are trying to do, I have done that on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT SEL, though ironically while that version of Polo is "fully loaded", the headlights, at least are lower power consumers as they are LED! Though at the 10 year/55,000miles point, I got bored waiting for the EFB to run out of life while the Bosch AGM "next size up" was sitting waiting for its service life to start. Anyway, I'd think that the main issue, in your case, is "new car warranty" and that rightly so, has sent the business(es) you have already contacted, running. In every case like this where "the owner knows better" the owner really does need to acquire the skill to make these changes themselves and live with any possible consequences - or leave as is - sorry, no sensible business needs the possible fallout from complying with your requests. Edit:- our younger daughter and husband bought a 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS which is loaded with "bits", and only use that car when they need to as they live on the edge of London and use trains to get into town for work. It was no real surprise to me when she phoned me to say that they had needed to call the AA out to deal with a flat battery, ie the original EFB, the car was out of new car warranty but had a used car warranty. I had considered asking them to request that the AA sold and fitted a new AGM same size or next size up - but I quickly considered that the AA while being happy to sell a member a new battery and fit it at a slightly elevated price - they would not be allowed to sell a different type of battery or a bigger one, just in case there was an issue and that member was trying to blame AA for fitting a requested "wrong" battery. I gave them a solar charger, but I'm not convinced that they are re-fitting it as they leave the car to sleep for the next 10 or 14 days, so I'd think that they will end up once again with a flat battery over the next couple of years. Car gets parked outside their garage which along with the other resident's garages is behind the block of flats and so no power point available for a trickle charger.

I've just scanned my 2011 Audi S4 and yes, it stores TPMS warnings in the ABS controller, it has probably a leak around the valves on the front tyres - these wheels were refurbished maybe 3 years ago due to leaks around the valve hole - ie localised corrosion due to my powder coater using the valve holes in the wheels to hook the wheels up from while working on the wheels, a lot annoying as I'll need to get the tyres off and the valves out, then I'll take them home and clean up and apply paint to that area on both the front wheels. It is probably logical when you think about it, anything associated with the ABS function should get logged. I'd need to force a TPMS warning on my wife's 2015 VW Polo to see if it also stores these events in the ABS controller.

It might be marque/model/age dependant, but I found that "event" logged quite a long time after the event - and that surprised me as I'd considered that once "you" had sorted the pressures out and reset the warning, that no traces would be left as they are hardly relevant. It's not as if the "event" that happened to me was a system malfunction, it was a genuine lose of tyre pressure in one wheel. I only discovered that logged fault while checking at service time.

This reminds me that I should clear the logged fault that gets left behind after the tyre pressure warning has been issued have been corrected and reset, probably use VCDS to do that! I think that checking the tyre pressures once a week is a smart thing to do as "looking" at each wheel/tyre before jumping into the car, just avoids you driving with a completely flat tyre as low profile tyres do tend to conceal their "current status".

@joek666 that might just be a brake splash guard that has rotted enough to break free - a friend with a 2019 VW T-Roc has already had to replace both front brake splash guards due to them "departing" the car.

I've noticed that my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT does, frequently especially in colder weather, after it has warmed up, idle above "normal" idle speed. It does that even when the cabin fan is switched off - so that discounts "cabin set temperature" as being the issue, also, when it last did it, I switched back on Auto Stop/Start - and the engine stopped - so that discounts "battery state of charge", the headlights were also not on Auto and switch off. Some time I'll use VCDS to check other possible reasons for this like incorrect oil temperature.

Well, here is my answer/findings as I've been through this "is it the right version of Haldex fluid". I sent away for the G 060 175 A2 Haldex fluid for my daughter's May 2019 SEAT Cupra's front diff Haldex service, and was sent G 065 175 A2! I dug deep and discovered that the Febi offering covers both these VAG Haldex fluid part numbers, but certain marques, for a car built at that date used different fluids if you go by the parts catalogue. I put that down to a possibility that different VAG marques use a different (licensed) manufacturer for these Haldex designed items and so maybe different materials get used. The H&S statement on the G 060 175 A2 container covers some different chemicals to the container for the G 065 175 A2. So, having got that info, I requested that my seller provided me with what I had ordered and paid for - which they did. Bottom line, go with which Haldex fluid your local Skoda dealership says is correct for your car, I've found in recent years that VAG parts departments are not meant to just "hand over" part numbers, so you would probably need to offer them both p/n and let them tell you which is correct for your car.

I have a friend that has a 2019 Audi A6 and he reported that his driver's side mirror glass did "fall off" - and it sounded like his "helpful" garage fitted a new glass on - and he was surprised that the mirror heater no longer works! I explained that a new suitable mirror complete with heater tape and backing plastic frame should have been fitted to sort that out and still have a heated mirror - which he finds that he needs. Just a word of warning maybe, when I moved from having a VX Cav GSI 4X4 (it had heated mirrors connected to the timed rear window heater) to a new 2000 VW Passat 4Motion that had "winter pack", I stupidly left the heated mirror switch on - always, then read on a USA Passat forum about people having burned out the heaters on their mirrors by doing that, by this time I did notice that the heaters were now not as effective as they had been originally - and yes, both mirror heaters had burned out the resistance between the heater terminals had become quite high and was now just the charred remains on the heater tape backing strip! That cost quite a bit to buy 2 new heated mirrors, I didn't repeat that trick of leaving mirror heaters on, although, the other day I did notice that the heaters on my wife's Polo were switched on, hopefully they have survived and that was my fault!

On the subject of AGM being necessary for hybrid cars, these cars are actually micro hybrids as they also have energy recuperation "going on" - but 98% of people would probably dismiss the "micro hybrid" bit. The "760A" on the Varta site is surely the "next size up" battery to the one currently fitted, so if you want to save money, just replace like with like, ie a 640A one. Edit:- oh and EFB if that suits you - like the original. Another Edit:- I would have thought, that your original battery is 242mm "long" and so a size 027.

Is that not just the throttle body doing a bit of “self calibrating” ie checking its end stop voltages.

@whitedot , absolutely not a problem, I just spotted that posting and wondered if my wife's 2015 VW Polo might benefit from me buy one. Due to my local VW dealership being a bit "out of the way", I searched and found a couple of sellers on ebay, but the shipping from Germany made me dig deeper before committing to buy one, then I discovered that the earlier version, which is claimed to be fitted to Fabias and early VW Fox cost a lot more than the version fitted to later VW Fox version - then I checked the VW parts cat and noticed that my wife's 2015 Polo probably had a different style of angled cabin air intake complete with grill.

Seeing as the suggestion that fitting a cabin air inlet grill from a VW Fox would help keep "stuff" out of the fan, I looked into this by using an online parts cat. The part number quoted, ie 5Z0 819 044, was used on later VW Fox, but, the part number 6Y0 819 044 A was used on earlier VW Fox - and was used on these Skoda Fabia up to at least 2020 - so these Fabias should have an air intake grill. This is just info for anyone thinking that buying a cabin air inlet grill is needed.

I think/hope that when you go into an ECP branch to hand these parts back, and give them your reg or even VIN, they will find the correct parts for that car. But yes, as said already, you really do need to do your homework before ordering online from ECP, also, it might also be smart to check the Halfords prices, as they can be cheaper than ECP - and it is ECP that supply parts to them on demand. In an ideal world, I find that it is always "time well spent" finding out which versions of all service parts your car needs soon after buying it, one easy way to do that is to ask your main dealer for a print out of "CAR DATA" for every VW Group car you end up with, doing that gives you access to ALL the options (PR codes) for your car. Using that info along with manufacturer's parts catalogues online removes almost 100% of errors, plus checking the kit number on the boxes BEFORE walking away from the ECP counter removes the last small %age of error - I find that last bit a bit hard to do when I've stood waiting for ages while some "non car" person(s) have been trying to get the correct parts - and a few knowledgeable "car" people (maybe) are in a queue behind me! The 60 days return thing can be annoying when you try to prepare early for some car work, it used to be 365 days.

Maybe remove the pollen filter and check that the (switch off) fan motor is "free enough" to rotate - if it has become "a bit stiff/tight" to rotate that could indicate a motor bush/bearing issue - and that might just be what caused the previous load to expire - just a thought, nothing more.

I refreshed the suspension on my wife's 2015 VW Polo a year or so ago, unfortunately, while under warranty, the supplying main dealer replaced the top mounting on one side, the strut piston nut on that side was really difficult to remove as it's thread was damaged from that workshop's efforts to sort out the warranty problem (noises from suspension), the one on the other side and all others that I have been first to remove after initial factory/supplier assembly have all been easy to get off. The only reason that I wanted to take the old front struts apart was to retrieve the plastic "basket" that acts as a retainer for the strut protective boot as you can't buy them new, and I wasn't going to buy VW Group struts which probably would have come with them already fitted.

Don't need to worry about the welded encapsulated nuts on these cars, they have the later way of fixing the top mountings, just weight of the car and a top plate thing. Which is probably why most of these cars that have that set up make lots of croaking/groaning noises especially in colder weather! I tend to use "drive through" or "Vortex" sockets to get the strut piston nuts off and back on tight enough "not too move" before using a normal socket to torque them up. For some maybe perverse reason/logic, I've left it until I had done hopefully my last job of that sort, for a while, that can be made easier if using these open sided sockets, before finally buying a set!

To make the above process sound even easier, you only need to clip open the mounting clamps for the 2 pipes so that they can be moved out of the way. So getting that top cover off is really easy - oh and a couple of spring clips need easing off.