rum4mo

Nothing wrong with re-joining any cut wires, just make sure that you carry out the repair in manner that will mean it lasts as long as the rest of the cable form. Typically you would need to cut out a section and replace with a suitable section of new wire - unless that wire had some "slack" in it. I lengthen many wires and shortened others in the front bumper cable for my Audi S4 as the Kufatec cable lengths were not correct, no issues what so ever - that work was done by me back in 2015/2016, I just examined the original wiring, checked the C/S of the strands and the number of strands and ordered the closest but slightly "bigger" modern automotive wiring, applied heat shrink sleeving and rewrapped the cable form using proper tape.

Yes, I agree, I've had one for maybe 16 years, possibly would get "unsettled" if I left home with it accidentally left in our other car!

In hot weather and in hotter climates, there was issues with the purge valves on these engines, but normally it was a problem had only affected starting after being stopped for a few hours - but never so never I suppose. These valves do normally only get pulsed under certain engine and driving conditions, like "engine warmed up" and "low engine load" - I used to hear that valve operate in my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI under these conditions, discovered that I didn't need to have to hear it and forced VW to replace the type of pump they had fitted to some cars - a nice cheap length of aniconic hard plastic piping, with the later preformed smooth bore rubber pipe - due to spotting this on this Skoda forum, VW did play dumb for a while though, but I persisted and since getting that pipe changed, I never hear that unnecessary noise!

I've now had a look at my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, and what is behind there is the HP fuel pump, it has its high pressure outlet pipe on the far RHS looking into from the front, on the other side of that HP fuel pump is a fuel pressure sensor and a rubber pipe with some extra rubber protection on it, it is the LP fuel delivery to this HP fuel pump. There will also be a top seal on that mechanical HP fuel pump. Absolutely no fuel should ever end up on the outside of that area - but you know that already I suppose. Maybe lift the air cleaner assembly up and out of the way when it is still wet and see where it seems to be coming from. Edit:- I'd think that the HP fuel delivery pressure will be higher when the engine is cold, so if it is a HP fuel leak from that area, ie pipe or sensor, then it would be worst then. I've never checked the fuel delivery pressure at cold or hot so I can't comment on how much it gets varied by, from memory, there is another HP fuel pressure sensor on the LHS (looking in to the engine) - on the end of the fuel rail. Next Edit:- sorry I've now re-read your earlier postings and see that you have already taken the air filter off and not found any useful clues, how annoying! Keep trying.

The way that they do it must work cost wise nowadays due to high volumes. I'm old enough to remember that when I bought a used Ford Escort De Lux van back in 1977, as it didn't have a coolant temperature gauge, all I needed to do was go to a scrappy and remove the dash pod from a same aged Ford Escort GXL or XL, and fit that after swopping the speedo, the extra wire/wires were there. So, that meant that the temperature sensor and its wiring had been fitted already - I had checked - of course!

Sorry for missing your past 2 postings, but yes, when you remove the charge pipe you are advised to fit new O-rings, I found that the alloy top of the throttle body needs cleaning up as salty spray or as in my case, even bits of rock salt can end up in between the charge pipe end and the throttle body, and that can lead to corrosion build up which will force the O-ring to distort and cause oil mist to leak out and that will "wet" the upper area of the throttle body - so the alloy should really get buffed up with something like a "green pad" to get rid of the build up of salty corrosion. I'll need to look at my wife's car's engine to work out what is in the area that gets wet with fuel in your car. Edit:- getting the inlet manifold etc off will let you check if "all is well" and that that engine is not one of the ones that could end up with this problem - and so tick that off your "worry" list.

I'd think that for £140 at a main dealership, it is only the Haldex fluid that has been replaced. The bill should detail what materials have been used, for a basic oil change there should be a bottle of fluid + FILL and DRAIN plugs - so is, guessing from past prices paid - and increased them due to "time passed", £70 + £15, which leaves very little labour time.

If you want to make this a bit easier than it might end up being, maybe check the Kufatec website for kits and wiring cables, hopefully when you look at the kits they sell, you should be able to work out exactly the parts you need to move from "rear parking sensors only" to "front and rear parking sensors", then when you look at the wiring harnesses they sell, you should be able to buy that. After buying the harness, you will be able to log into their support instructions for that kit. Now, all that written above is based on my experience of adding front parking sensors to my 2011 Audi S4 in 2015, but hopefully you will find the same availability of stuff for your 2013 Fabia. I am a bit fussy so I wanted to achieve "as factory" or as near as possible, I bought all support parts via ebay, sensors were bought new but at sensible prices, I had to cut and splice the front bumper cable as it looked like one version was made for a wide range of ages of my car and typically LHD only, which can explain the need to alter the wiring slightly - I just checked the wire types used and bought a couple of reels of same sizes,I even bought a replacement "bumper" and "car" side set of connectors as Kufatec uses a size that leaves unused connections - I'd guess that like Audi, Skoda will also use at factory the correct connectors and so leave no unused connections. Coding, yes a few modules will need their coding altered to add in this upgrade, I've got VCDS so used that and tip/guides/hints from motoring forums, everything went perfectly, just a bit worrying punching the holes in the front bumper!

It may well be damping the movement of the mirror, that would tie in with the issue that you were having - that is just an maybe logical,guess.

If you are still interested in checking what all was included in the initial build at the factory, ask your local Skoda Parts Department for a print out of "CAR DATA" for that car, you only need to give them the reg number to get this. Alternatively, you can pay a 3rd party a nominal fee, maybe £5 for this to get emailed to you, CCP otherwise called Coverdale Car Parts can or used to provide this service for £5. coverdalecarparts.co.uk typically "they" respond quicker to direct contact via their facebook page.

Whoops, I missed the sparkplug info had been given, also forgot to comment on the slight smell of petrol when cold started in a garage, that could just be unburned fuel from the cold start - but made worse by wrong temperature information or some other reason causing misfiring at initial cold start.

It's easy to check the cam belt, just remove the top cover and look inside, at 117,000 kms, maybe time to check and even replace it, as to "is this the problem?" - I'd not think so. Coking up of the inlet port areas, might be an issue - that can be checked/cleared by walnut shell blasting, or maybe even dry ice. Injectors slightly clogging up, you could feed this car with a dose of injector cleaner, as someone has reported on one of these VAG forums that these TSI engines can/do suffer from injectors clogging up enough to cause issues. Temperature sensor - maybe that is handing duff values when "cold" - that could get checked by using a compliant scan tool. I suppose someone will jump in with "when was it last serviced - and are the spark plugs getting replaced at the correct time/distance?" - that could be relevant. Oil level, I'm maybe reading too much into this, but, is the engine oil level currently too high, not good.

Yes, plus VCDS and some other can talk to all the smart controllers - and there are quite a few in the typical VW Group car, so that tends to mean that they cover "everything" .

As per PetrolDave's posting, when you think about it, if a fault code is logged due to a "hard" fault ie one that is still present, then no scan tool can get rid of it showing up, yes it will get cleared - but only for as long as it takes for that controller to re-check the system, intermittent faults after being logged and no longer valid can be cleared and will only appear again when that fault next "happens", some lower levels on modern cars just get cleared, as far as dash warning lights are concerned, after maybe 10 engine starts with no repeat of that fault, some others even vanish with time - which can be annoying if your car is still under warranty and you don't have time to drop everything and get the dealer to check your car! Edit:- oh, another vote for VCDS if you serious/keen enough, I've had it almost from the beginning - well either late 2001 or early 2002.

The battery certainly needs to be healthy and charged, so in the first place re-charge the battery and see if this sorts things out. Edit:- can you work out why the battery has become discharged or low in charge, for instance low car usage or frequent short journeys? Another Edit:- at 10 years old, it might still have its original battery, and depending on how you have been using this car, that battery might now be "past its best" - but really once re-charged, get it tested before replacing it. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI still has its original battery but that car has run over 54,000 miles and its battery got "looked after" during lockdown, so it is still showing good enough health - though 10 years is good enough for an EFB, so it will be getting replaced "soon".

I think that all VW Group workshops replace all the 5 inlet manifold screws, so I bought a set of them along with 4 inlet seals and 4 fuel rail securing bolts. I'm planning on checking these bolts when I eventually get round to replacing the G13 coolant with G12evo. As my wife's car slightly pre-dates this mess up, and not smelling of petrol, I'm just going to check all the fuel rail bolts for tightness for my own peace of mind. You might have to make up some tool to remove and fit the injector support elements - okay the removing doesn't matter too much if you are replacing them with new ones, but maybe that type of tool is needed to successfully fit the new ones - I haven't worked that out. Also a good time to take pictures of the 4 inlet ports/valves areas wrt "carbon junk accumulating" - for reference and for other forum users interest, I plan to include doing that. My wife's August 2015 Polo is at 54,000 miles.

I've spotted them in my local Audi emporium, typically sitting on a front wiper arm. I suppose these "comfort indicators" mainly do do what they set out to, ie give you a vague idea of "how things are" - ie "your charger is still working okay" or where a charger is not fitted "your battery has still got enough charge to stay healthy". I've never considered buying any of that item, only having 2 cars and enough chargers to cover re-charging batteries has always worked for me, but in car showrooms they maybe save a bit of time - if they work.

Hopefully just some other issue than the high pressure fuel rail issue, and hopefully you find it before it causes any issues under the bonnet while being driven.

A friend with a just under 2 year sold Ford Kuga, which has an ELB+ doesn't use that car too often, so it has been back to Ford a couple of times for a battery check/charge - it is a personal purchase contract thing car so he feels that Ford should just re-charge/fix the battery, although I have been saying "get a smart charger on it every 2 months if for no other reason than to keep it in a "fit state to avoid any inconvenience". So, their annual trip to France is happening soon, he became fed up with warnings of low power availability for 12V DC stuff in the car, so finally charged the battery using his smart charger (NOCO) - charger quickly reaches the green/good LED stage, but if a door is opened it immediately reverts to an indicated very low initial state of charge. After stopping charged from an indicated fully charged stage, and waiting 2 hours, the PD across the battery is 12.12V, I said that even although the car starts okay, still limiting auxiliary 12V DC use, I'd be less than happy about driving it a 1000 miles or so to reach my holiday destination. So, eventually he went along to Ford, "battery, if found to be degraded due to lack of regular use, will need replacing and is now not covered by warranty", today it goes in for another boost charge/investigation, I think that in his case, as a former car buyer and fixer/maintainer, the shift to one of these lease/buy schemes has switched him into a "clean hands all car stuff is included" frame of mind, which with his abilities and knowledge, has let him down! Edit:- I tend to have a couple of CT5s, first one is "TEST and CHARGE" version ie MSX5- possibly not my best buy as the "Test" functionality is a bit limited as even with a new/good/charged battery, when the engine is cranked, the resulting voltage JUST stays within that unit's operating range - any slight weakness in a battery results with it switching off due to the resulting battery voltage when cranking! A basic CT5 bought after I lost confidence in the first one's ability to remain operating as intended, it tended to revert to "min safe voltage" state too often with both cars, so of that was due to it not being able to remember its "last set charging option" as claimed by the operators handbook - now if I need to use, I always select the mode I need even although it is always the same mode. Also have a CTEK Battery Analyser, that woks well, and for using when messing with VCDS, a CTEK PRO25S charger/maintainer/supply.

Your car is the "correct" age for possible "high pressure fuel rail securing bolts" issue, but I would have thought that once that started it would develop into a serious leak quickly. What is causing the damp area on the top of the radiator?

My local "good" independent place guy just mumbled something about the valve hole being a mess, so I think that when and if he added any sealant, it would be to a crusty hole - no cleaning/preparation getting done then and a dollop of sealer on the valve before yanking it through. I think that that place is now just my nearest tyre place, no more, matching beating others on tyre prices and good service used to be their game, now it is just mainly car servicing, just is life! Seeing as you have mentioned rims, a friend's wife has a maybe 2009ish Micra, one wheel started to lose air slowly but intermittently, in a sort of "its okay" for a month, then needed a bit of air, then complete deflation so handed the wheel into a tyre chain place, rim resealed now it should be okay, that worked for a few months then same again, "all good" turning to complete deflation overnight! Time for another visit and this time "wheel rusted through at a lot of points at the weld down the rim centre line" so he drove back along and sure enough "game over" for that steel wheel, getting a replacement for that Micra was not too easy either, now he is waiting for the next wheel to go the same way. Quite unusual that I think, or at least I've never heard of that happening to a steel wheel in the past. Edit:- I attempted to get some rubber grease into the area around the valve, just as a feeble attempt to keep salty winter water away from these areas.

One thing about powder coating, the points where the assembly gets "hung up" never gets coated in my experience of getting alloy wheels powder coated, so make sure that you examine it when you get it back and add protection to that/these points - the same for an least Lesjofors road springs, I sorted that out before fitting them. The annoying thing about that with alloy wheels is, they are typically hung up with hooks passing through the valve holes - so you can end up with leaking valve areas! I've had a set of 4 used alloys powder coated for use as winter wheels, they all failed at the valve areas starting at maybe the 4 or 5 year point in time, so, to beat that and provide myself with a winter spare wheel, I bought a used 5th wheel, that meant that I handed in 4 wheels with tyres and a single 5th wheel - tyre to get bought later. That was when my suspicions wrt what the root cause for the leaks were found to be true, so that 5th wheel ended up getting the still stripped back to alloy slot/groove painted before getting a tyre fitted to it. Now 2 winters later, the first tyre is losing pressure very slowly, if the valve area fails a "bubble test", I'll get the tyre off, then I'll tidy up the valve area and then get the tyre back on - instead of asking my local tyre place to check/clean the area and fit a new valve along with sealant - which never worked in the past!

The new car market is still not in a good state for finding a new ICE car or maybe even for finding a "good" slightly used ICE car. I'd find it very difficult to find a small engined car that has a "trustworthy" engine, so my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT was treated to a complete suspension rebuild last to minimise the possibility of ended up with a broken spring at an awkward moment(been there done that too many times in the past. So replacing that car remains a distant task hopefully and I'd think that it will be replaced with a small EV. My 2011 Audi S4 6MT was bought in 2013 to replace a 13 year old "bought new 2000 VW Passat 4Motion" and I wanted to grab a 6MT S4 while lowish age/mileage ones were still available - I have not yet faced up to what happens or gets bought after its time is up! We don't really need 2 cars either as we are both retired, but as said "you can't take it with you" so in retirement why not continue with 2 cars - means that the Audi S4 mileage is disgracefully(for some) low, but each of our cars have different uses, so I'm okay with that. I do admit that eventually we will only be running a single car and it does look a lot like it will be an EV - or a slightly used last of the bigger engined VW Golfs, or an Audi S3 4 door, I'm stuck in the "I prefer a saloon" mode. Front dampers leaking, especially LHS front ones, and especially the ones with electronic control - a well known VW Group trait, if indeed they are DDC then they will be Monroe and new Monroe ones are available at what seems to be sensible prices - well very sensible when compared with VW Group prices for VW Group "overbranded" same Monroe items. I've found changing cars can be a horrible experience, for me selling on my bought slightly used 1991 Vauxhall Cavalier GSI 4X4 in 2000 for a factory ordered imported new VW Passat 4Motion was not the "improvement" I had anticipated, that GSI 4X4 had been just too good for what I wanted from a car, getting the 2011 Audi S4 did bring the "improvement" I had anticipated as it was just as "good" as the Cav GSI 4X4 with lots of added enjoyment. Same really for my wife's car changings chosen by me, going from an ex channel islands 6 months old 1992 Fiesta 1.1 Ghia to a slightly used 1995 Fiesta 1.6Si with the Zetec engine - good move, then going from that to a factory order imported 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V 75PS - not a good move - heated seats and electric sunroof and a drop of 15PS in a heavier car was never going to work for her - or me, going from that to a factory ordered 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110 6MT was an excellent move!

"easymanuals" have worked for me in the past especially when you order well into the production life - or beyond it - so that any errors/updates have been incorp'd into what is just really a copy of what VW Group offers to the trade who are out with the VW Group service umbrella. As you get "everything" that means all engine/gearbox options and maybe even "early" and "late" car coverage, I've always just saved everything, then also created a folder for my exact age and model of car - to save any future faffing around for correct info. Edit:- I'd think that "CHY" is the family or section of that engine family that your engine comes from, and CHYB is the actual model/version of your engine that is in your car - have you checked the engine for labels, probably printed paper labels that define the exact version, serial number, engine build plant and date of build. I've always made a point of asking my local VW Group marque's parts department for a print out of CAR DATA for each of our family cars, and that is very helpful later down the line.

Might be an issue with the sensor that protects the evaporator, forgotten its name, or there is enough moisture in the fridge gas to cause small pellets of ice to form which will block the flow of liquid/gas - until the system has been switched off for a short period of time, then liquid/gas flow is restored as the ice pellets have "gone".