rum4mo

For what it is worth, at least VW use a comment/recommendation about changing the oil on this model/type of engine, and that is "do not use oil extraction method, drain from sump plug" - so that is what I've always done with my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI - and I think that you have discovered that this is the only way to change the oil in this model/type of VW Group engine. My Pelo 6000, rests on a shelf in my garage, just another tool bought in error, I have only used it once on a SEAT Ibiza 1.4 16V engine, and ran out of patience, it worked well enough on my petrol mower - but using simpler tools to do that job means less time wasted cleaning everything up afterwards. I think that you need to fabricate a pair of ramps out of wood, or buy a ready made pair of ramps.

You might find that the design of these deflector rings has changed slightly, I found that when I replaced the front bearings on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI last year, in my case the car already had the newer profile of deflector ring and I had a pair of older version of deflector rings left over from a road spring replacement job I had done on a 2002 VW Polo 18 years, roughly, earlier. In the event, I did try to replace the deflector rings on this 2015 Polo last year and failed miserably on the left hand side and just end up breaking off too many of the gripper "teeth" - so I refitted the original one, one the right hand side, I did manage to fit the new deflector ring. Note, I did clean off as much rust/curd as I could before trying to fit these deflector rings. These just seem to be to deflect general road curd away from the bearing area, there is a lip aon the end of the drive shaft that they locate over. I'm just relating that tale in case you are concerned about the new deflector plates looking different. The survival of the ABS sensor will be in doubt judging by my experience, the left hand side one survived okay, the right hand side one, because there was a greater build up of rust/curd, which I needed to clean up in order to get the rear forcing plates to sit into the back of the hub properly. Obviously closer in, where the stub end of the ABS sensor pokes out to almost touch the magnetic ring on the rear of the bearing, must have had enough rust/curd remaining to cause that ABS stub to get "collected" by the rust/curd when the bearing was being pulled out by the tool. Before I started using this tool, I ground away an extra area to be sure that the ABS sensor was not being contacted, with the same thoughts of caution when pulling the new bearings into place AFTER I had competed this job, I ground out a vertical channel on the inner face of the rear "fitting" plate - just while I remembered trashing an ABS sensor. Remember to use plenty Moly grease on the forcing screw rod, its nut and its thrust bearings, also clean up/out the area where the new bearing will land into and apply just a touch of Lithium based grease to help ease the bearing in.

It is a sort of self taper type threaded screw for screwing into a plastic part, as you can see from the threads showing in that picture. Its part number is N 106 112 01 oval head panel screw 6 X 22 which just means that it is nominally 6mm in diameter and the threaded section is 22mm.

When I got my car's alloy winter wheels recoated in a "pleasant" shade of grey/gun metal, I was quite surprised to see that they fitted dark coloured balance weights. But yes, very easy to sort out as I tend to do with any silver coloured wheels when "touching them up" after removing them from the car at the end of Summer or the end of Winter - even the silver coloured ones change colour over time!

Others have stated that while under the control of the car's smart charging system, cars with "regenerative braking", will always aim to charge the battery up to a level of roughly 85% - doing that means that all/most of the "free" energy provided by "regenerative braking" - mainly during on the overrun /braking phase, can be absorbed by the car's battery and so lower overall emissions (and save the national grid from being stressed by people home trickle charging - hopefully that will be taken as intended as a joke).

Possibly a "bargain" when compared with main dealership prices, hopefully someone who is going through this via a Skoda main dealership workshop will report back with the cost of getting that work carried out there.

I'm not too sure about the "no understanding" you haven't a clue as to what my back ground in engineering is. My general regurgitating was me regurgitating what I had already written about this, so you are totally wrong there, okay as time goes on I'm missing or dropping out a bit of the content of my original thoughts on what is happening, so no "embellishing" intended from me. I'm not going to respond to any more of your ramblings as you do seem to "set off" against a few random posts/posters - such is your hobby. Maybe stand back and consider how/what you write and is your intention to help or promote your own self. Lets allow the OP to get back to this subject and tell us how it pans out.

Yup. Edit:-that was in response to AGFalco.

I would have to ask myself "why would I respond to another bit of half right half wrong thinking" based on - what? I do understand that you are mainland Europe's top materials person, but, what has been happening is said to have been started/caused by under torqued fasteners, so dissecting what some people have written, on more than one topic, in a way to raise awareness of your amazing technical knowledge that many of us are so privileged to "benefit" from - just doesn't cut it for at least me. Okay I might have left some stuff out when I posted that, but it wasn't meant to be a final complete breakdown of how these bolts are getting their heads popped. The issue, its consequences, and the potential for even worse consequences is a lot more important to a motoring forum, than picking bits apart.

My wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and during lockdown etc, I was connecting it up to a CTEK smart charger, the stated and/or preferred way to connect an external charger is between the battery +VE and body earth point near the battery. I also have a CTEK battery tester/analyser and that along with online tales of battery woes, lead me to "jump the gun" and grab myself a Bosch AGM battery of the "next size up", really to be ready to walk away from minimal sized/rated EFB battery - i bought that AGM battery back in early winter of 2021 - and yet that car continues to survive on its original battery after 8 years and 45,000 miles - like many other people, I can end up being a bit selective as to when I allow the auto Stop/Start to be in control, but so far so good. It seems to be part of the price of lowering emissions, ie to fit minimal sized/rated batteries and then only allow them to charge when they threatening to go flat, as I said, that 2015 VW Polo has never ended up giving the impression that it is too low on battery charge that it will not start.

Oh bother, another one, I'm just adding this link to keep info together.

You are being cheated and robed of this experience, wear luckier pants! Edit:- It is good to read about one actually being taking into a Skoda dealership workshop for repair though.

Sorry to hear about this, please report this to VOSA on their website and that might, just might "jog" things on a bit, in your situation, when reporting to VOSA, this is one actual event that Skoda UK can not brush off as it is being worked on within their approved workshop network. Be sure to let us know about the outcome, ie costs if any needing to be handled by you and what Skoda UK has offered - if any, this is not a "time related wear and tear issue" it is an assembly issue at a Skoda managed engine plant in CZ! Edit:- okay, so maybe it is a "time related wear and tear issue" - but only in as much as that engine was not assembled as per the production procedures, so the torque being applied to these bolts was low and an unknown value, so that has lead to these bolts "walking out" and then the head popping off due to fatigue induced by them now being slackened off slightly. Another Edit:- I think that I should have suggested DVSA website for reporting that issue.

I was a bit annoyed with myself when I replaced the spark plugs on our younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS 6MT, after they had handed it in, down in London, for its year 4 service, it came back with a comment "we didn't replace the spark plugs this year due to the lowish mileage - we suggest that you get them replaced at next service", that was a VW Group Indie workshop, so I just bought a set of genuine VW Group branded NGKs and fitted them while they were visiting us up in Scotland - then thought "why don't I just replace the air filter early", I checked ECP price for a Mann air filter for that car, and it seems that this version of the 1.0TSI is too new for them to sell new air filters at a sensible price, so I just left it, if I had thought a bit more about this, I could have bought one online for a sensible price, but time had ran out for that! What I didn't need to discover was, that it looked a lot like that VW Group Indie had forced the air filter housing off the engine without releasing the retaining clip on the intake manifold rubber coupler part - so that is no longer part of the intake manifold! That has still to be sorted out back down in London now that I've provided them with the bits necessary for a workshop to do that job! The rubber coupler must get forced onto the intake manifold hard plastic part during initial manufacture of the intake manifold, and re-assembling it correctly now that it has been forced apart does not look to be a simple task - hence the reason that I got a new intake manifold bought in.

Have the brakes ever been serviced since this car was new, if not, probably time to do that now.

@AGFalco, I'm glad you posted that, it forced me to re-think what I had written ie "6 years" instead of "4 years", which is what I claimed was the spark plug and air filter change period - even although I went on to say that my approaching 8 years old car was due its 2nd spark plugs and air filter change, I have edited that posting now!

5 litres is easily enough and probably cheaper than buying in 1 litre sizes, I’m away from home so I can’t honestly quote the quantity of oil I load in. As you mentioned ECP I tend to buy Mann oil, air and pollens filters but some others will be okay as well. I’ve never bought engine oil from ECP other than the odd 1 litre to make up my total needs for my 2 cars, so I’ll not comment on that question.

No that was just for the Gen2 bearing tool, I bought F-A-G kits from Autodoc, £104.61 for 2 kits including delivery - that was a year ago.

For this engine, or at least the CJZD version, I've stuck with 5W-30 and seem to be happy to use Mobil One ESP on both our cars, spark plugs I replace at 4 years, so 2nd change this service which is due very soon, air filter also at 4 years, total mileage currently, for a mid August 2015 reg'd car is 45,000 miles. Fuel filter - I've not bothered about that, in fact Skoda at least dropped that "bit" from maybe 2017 onwards. In fact my wife ran a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 SE 75PS for 13 years and 105,000 miles, and while I did buy a new pressure regulator and filter etc, they still live on in the airing cupboard! So, if I were you, I'd not bother unless you are deliberately filling your car with fuel that has been used for washing parts! I did notice that my old 2011 Audi S4 got treated to Shell Helix Ultra 0W-20, I think, at its first service which was before I owned it, I changed it back to 5W-30 for when I serviced it and Audi tended to revert to a "lighter" oil when they serviced it (variable servicing and extended warranty), but since it has run out of warranty, it gets 5W-30 every year. Some day maybe I will start trusting these "lighter" oils, though their main "plus" seems to be very slightly reduced emissions, but that day has not come yet! Edit:- remember the "type" needs to include the VW 504 approval, or in some cases, aimed to be same as VW 504. VW 502 is probably okay for fixed miles/years, but I just aim to stick with VW504 and replace it and oil filter every 12 months as my annual mileage is roughly 7500 miles. Edited to correct my statement that air filter and plugs are due every 6 years - wrong car for that, so corrected to 4 years and that ties in with my "due their 2nd change very soon (for a car approaching 8 years old)

I just gambled on buying a cheap "made in China" GEN2 for 72mm bearings via ebay, a year ago it cost £65.50 - and it worked okay for the 2 bearings I replaced. The kit that I bought has no extra bits.

Yes, another report getting dismissed in respect of any real need to prevent this failure actually happening, as I found when I contacted them only as a "concerned owner", the trigger point for action has not been reached - yet, so "all is good" in their world. Edit:- there must be quite a few drivers that do not have a "good" sense of smell, or appreciate a drop in engine performance - and so "bash on" - but VW Group and DVSA are probably not bothered too much about them.

I'd think that there will be a couple of water pumps, the one covering the bulk of the coolant moving, which has its own small grooved/toothed belt and is driven on the rear of one of the cam shafts and located within/beside the coolant distribution or management bits and bobs, and an electric water pump which also operates as a "run on" pump to keep coolant circulating are the areas that get very hot, after the ignition is switched off.

Are you sure about that, I/ve not checked, but I thought that the fan is only run at high speed when the AC is turned on, the low/high speed is used to control the engine coolant only.

I think that by the time that I ordered up my first Gen2 bearing for a Polo last year, SKF, who might have been my bearing brand of choice, had done away with that means of locking the bearing in place, so as I couldn't fine much out as to why this "improvement" could be beneficial to me, I changed to buying bearing-hub sets from F-A-G as they still had a retaining ring.

Yes you are correct 36mm bi-hex works on these nuts, I played safe and bought a Draper deep impact strength socket as that meant getting a socket that had a thin enough wall to allow it down into the counterbore on the hub. I think that some people just bought a normal depth bi-hex socket and that worked.