rum4mo

"wet belts" is a very rude topic🙁. I still have to make contact with my mate that got that job done on his 2019 DADA VW T-Roc, so I'll get the final details when me next meet up. After I gave him "chapter and verse" about the wet belt in his daughter in law's Pug 205 that they had bought used a year earlier, he soon tried trading it in, no one was interested in taking it in at its age/mileage (6 years old) against another used car, so he finally managed to get small money for it by selling it to a truck garage owner who normally needed to set aside one or two days a week to replacing "wet belts".

Easymanuals.co.uk could be a good source of what you want/need at not much money, they are just copies that have been grabbed from erWin in the past, I've bought one for each of my VW Group cars and they are very handy to have once you learn how to use them. Edit:- these captive "bolts" will have been pressed into the swivel castings just like wheel hub studs are pressed into the hubs - they will have male splines in the casting contact area to prevent rotation.

If you are buying new lower swivels, with a car at this age, I'd be buying aftermarket and normally you'd get a kit complete for each side with the swivel, lower nuts and top nut. Edit:- maybe check the Halfords site for prices for the lower swivels, they source these parts from ECP but the price can be less.

I edited my previous posting TRE nuts N 903 213 02 Lower swivel nuts N 103 320 02 RHS lower swivel 6R0 407 366 B (has captive bolt/studs) LHS lower swivel 6R0 407 365 B (has captive bolt/studs)

I'd always make the effort to use genuine parts as the thread size/grade for car aircraft etc fasteners is tighter than that for general use. Edit:- they are listed as M10 but the "bolts" should be captive and part of the swivels, the TREs are listed as being M12.

Maybe a different engine, but still from the same family, my wife has a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI with the same design of belt and drive, I considered that 7.5 years would be a good point along with a mileage of 45,000 miles, but actually left it to 10 years and just over 50,000 miles(I think) before getting the belt replaced by a local German cars specialist. My mate, with a 2019 VW T-Roc 1.5TSI DADA, got his belt changed a few months ago and used a local to him German cars specialist, I had warned him that it would probably cost around £1500 if using a VAG Indie and a lot more if using any VW Group dealership's workshop, he reckoned that it was going to be around £800, which does seem cheap to me for these engines with inlet and exhaust adjustable camshaft pulleys which need to get set up using a specialist kit of bits - my wife's 2015 1.2TSI while being from the same engine family, only has adjustable inlet cambelt pulley so seems to be less demanding when it comes to belt changing, so should end up being cheaper.

Well, my wife has a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI and its fuel cap does not spring back when closed. My older daughter has a 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra and its fuel cap does spring back slightly when closed. So on that simple sample of 2 cars of differing ages, it just could be that VW Group did make a change to the design of these fuel caps at some point in time so early ones do not spring back and later ones do spring back slightly after being closed.

The first area that I'd check is the track rods as when there is wear on the inner end of them, you will feel/hear a knocking when you rock the steering wheel with the engine off. I'll check my wife's 2015 59,000miles VW Polo 1.2TSI later and update this posting.

Yes I had it "in my head" that it could be M8 - maybe I had checked the "size" of the nut - but, in some cases like this, the nut is made a "useful" size for what its intended purpose is going to be and not conforming with normal sizing. The "AF" size of the Audi jump post nut, from memory, is way bigger than you might expect just going by its internal thread size, which from memory is M6. The other reason that I've questioned the thread size is, on the Polo/Fabia etc, this earthing post is a main car body primary earthing point - on cars that have a remote jump post, that junction is can end up just being a node for full time use as a "running supply" loads and very short time use as a jumping point, so that could explain why remote jump post terminal sizes are smaller than main car body primary earthing point terminal sizes.

I will drill out the thread on the Audi one and re-tap it, but I need to know the thread size on the existing dome nut first - should or could have taken that body earth dome nut off while I was replacing the battery tray for a longer one - which I needed to do to be able to fit the "next size up" AGM battery - but I got caught with needing to "personalise" that new longer battery tray a bit more than I had hoped for, so the time had gone and this extra task had been forgotten about - maybe later this year.

I think that it is a good idea to check the battery's capacity once a year so that you can track its "wear out" and so try to avoid ending up sticking with a battery that is well passed its useful lifetime. I've got a CTEK battery tester and so far I've believed the readings it gives me at service time, the replacing of the original EFB at the 10 years point was more down to me already having a "one size up" AGM waiting for its time in the car, than the original EFB battery reaching the "wear out" point in its life, although I had been given the "replace battery" for a few years before that, but auto stop/start, when left to do its thing, did still operate, and that original EFB never caused any known issues over its 10 years 56,000 miles of use in a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT.

I'd think that it was lose of feedback voltage that causes these flap motors to make noises, and some like that one, has managed to split open its casing when it lost positional feedback, the short stub/axle on the back of that cog will need to engage in a hole so that it is stable when being moved.

I had a cunning plan to overcome this long term, short term I just cleaned the paint off that dome nut and applied petroleum jelly to stop corrosion, then I managed to buy a -VE remote jump post from an Audi via eBay, but I think that the thread size is smaller than the, in my case VW Polo 6C size - these remote jump posts are galvanised and so should be a reliable place to use for periodic "top ups" - maybe one day I'll check the thread size as so far I've not been able to find that dome nut in the parts listing.

There is a “snap ring” sort of retainer around these bearing normally, freezing the bearing assembly will not do much to reduce the dimension of the retainer ring! This sounds a lot like you’ve been dealing with old style Gen1 bearings.

Are you not sure that the continual squeal AFTER you have switched the engine off, is not the turbo actuator trying and failing to recalibrate itself?

That will be them, I got it wrong. They have an ebay shop. I felt the need to add/suggest PIM as I messed up and grabbed a new Bosch ABS sensor from ECP to save money, and didn’t save so much, so going forward I’ve bought from PIM, very fast delivery!

Have a look at the "Hub nut" thread in the Rapid section, I posted a link there for a suitable tool if your bearing is a 72mm one. I bought a cheap Chinese kit and it worked well, just make sure that you use Moly grease on the forcing screw. I played safe and bought a set of similar length pins from a Sealey tools site online - these can get seen as being consumables so for the Sealey kits they provide spares, and these Chinese kits are not a lot away from being copies of whatever Sealey copied! So I can't vouch for the strength of the forcing pins, everything else worked fine, these bearings can need quite a bit of force to get them out, I got the first side (LHS) out of the 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS with 288mm discs okay without damaging the ABS sensor, but I cracked the one on the RHS, I think that it was the build up of rust scale that caused that to happen on that side, you'll probably side that removing the wheel sensor intact is not going to happen, CarPartsInMotion sell Bosch ABS sensors for not much money, from memory the 2015 VW Polo uses 4 different ones!! Each shaped to suit its location - my 2011 Audi S4 uses only 2 different ones, which is more useful. Removing the seized ABS sensors:- I just drill down into them, screw in a long MDF screw through a slide hammer attachment for pulling car panels, and yank them out, they also can require quite a bit of force as I discovered when removing one from my 2011 Audi S4 - for the 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, once the drive shaft was out of the way I just hammered a drift in from the lower end, though if I was to repeat that job, I'd just use a screw and slide hammer. Edit:- if you have any difficulty working out which bits to use when in these kits, just ask the question as I'm sure that I will have made a note of how I used it! I probably only read most of the online content covering using these kits many times before maning up and using it!

Yup, if you plan to complete this job yourself, you will need to buy a suitable GEN2 bearing removal/fitting tool kit. Measure the diameter of the hub-bearing combo when you get it, the wheel bearings on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS so with 288mm front discs, was 72mm. I just bought a cheap China made probably, kit for around £65 - that was back in August 2022. Like this:- 72 mm Front Wheel Bearing puller Tool Kit For Audi A1 A2 VW Fabia Skoda Ibiza UK | eBay UK or slightly cheaper:- 72 mm Front Wheel Bearing puller Tool Kit For Audi A1 A2 VW Fabia Skoda Ibiza UK | eBay UK

Also, I'd expect that there will be 2 rows of balls in these Gen2 bearing packs.

I don't think that they are the old style taper bearings, if they were, I'd think that you could adjust them as in the past - but there again they might still be a taper type design, if not - I've got a couple of 2011 Audi A4/S4 wheel bearing assemblies waiting to get dumped, I suppose there is one way to answer that question - though I'm sure that these Gen2 bearing packs use balls and not rollers, but not in tapered "arrays", just assembled out of press fitted parts accurately manufactured and that will be why they MUST always be held clamped while supporting a load.

The hub bearing assembly should now be considered to have suffered damage as it is this hub nut tightened onto the drive shaft that clamps the bearing pack together. It gets clamped at the inside up against the outer section of the drive shaft and the outer by that nut being screwed up onto the end of the outer section of the drive shaft. So why did it end up "coming off"? Well it has a built in tang that should stop it being able to unscrew, but these hub nuts are "one use only" items, and maybe someone has already had that nut off and just refitted it. Maybe a comment "of interest", I've removed a few of these nuts to replace struts and springs or just springs, and to replace bearing packs - on one car, I managed to end up with the factory fitted hub nut off without doing any damage to the locking tang - that was not very impressive!

For your own peace of mind, maybe just open up the key body - no doubt Google will show you how, and check what is written on the exposed face of the battery - you should not need to remove it from this version of the key fob, so no need to worry about anything going wrong. Unlike the 2 guides that I've just watched, I prefer to use a kitchen-table knife to prise open the key body, I'd rather use that than damage/bend the other key's blade! Now, VW Group always only fit Panasonic batteries, so I've always only ever bought and fitted Panasonic batteries bought online from sources that seem to sell genuine batteries and always show a picture so that you know the "use by" date of what you are buying.

It looks A 864 S is the twin pack Bosch kit you should buy. 650mm driver's side and 450mm passenger's side flat blades. Edit:- maybe plan to buy them from an online trader that specialises in selling windscreen wipers, they will know which kit is correct for your car.

Hum, seeing is believing! Now to re-check the owners handbooks, though maybe this is a more recent change, prompted by some event!

I first used these VW Group plastic "wheel hangers" back in 2000 as my May 2000 VW Passat 4Motion had a rear puncture in early life. VW supplied these plastic dowels initially to cars that didn't have locating/retaining front disc screws - so replacing a front wheel could end up getting annoying if you couldn't keep the hub wheel fixing points aligned with the disc holes - AND the wheel holes. Soon after that I bought the aluminium alloy version that VAG supply into their bigger/biggest SUVs, and they were cheap as chips from the Audi or VW main dealership. I've made sure that all of my family's VAG cars have one of these plastic dowels in the tool kit and all bought from VW Group dealerships as the price ebay sellers ask for them is nuts nowadays. Edit:- someone quoted 140Nm for the wheel torque, especially for 19" wheels, I've never spotted that before, I still use 120Nm on all our VAG cars including ones with 19" wheels.