rum4mo

If you are dead set on using ECP, maybe use their online contact thing to ask if they DO stock suitable front struts and springs - and maybe top mounts and top bearings for your car. Doing that might save you a lot of annoyance further down the line. Some of their front desk staff are interested in car stuff (mainly non UK nationals), but some (mainly UK nationals) are just “doing a job” - same for their managers. I tend to do a lot of homework before collecting parts from ECP as I’ve fallen the “wrong parts” before. So that means checking aftermarket manufacturers web cats and only leaving your ECP branch if the numbers on the boxes match your online findings.

Well the running gear which this is part of tends to be common across the VW Group marques for car of the same "size" and age, which makes sense cost wise. I was just trying to encourage you into completing this task and seeing how the new rear brakes settle down after a couple of days use, before trying to get access to the cable adjusting point. I'm sure it will be a bit messy to get into, my wife's 2015 Polo also has an arm rest, but I've not looked into how to get to the handbrake cable adjuster simply because after replacing a single rear calliper, both rear discs and pads, everything is good. I'll try to remember not to bother handing you out any "half help" advice in the future.

I'd be surprised if, at the end of this repair, you actually do need to adjust the handbrake cable. I've replaced the offside rear calliper. both discs and pads, and I didn't expect to need to adjust the handbrake cable - and as it turned out I didn't need to. That was on a 2015 VW Polo. I know that at least some VW Group cars of this size, ended up with getting re-work done on the handbrake, my younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS 6MT, seems to have had this re-work carried out twice by a SEAT main dealership! Even after that rectification, the general "feel" of the handbrake action is not "too good"!

Good result (hopefully) as long as they fit the same "size" of new battery either a VW Group branded Varta or another brand that you can trust, and code it into the car. Going forward, how to get a "good" service life out of a car starter battery?:- a lot will ultimately depend on how you use the car, as in frequency of use and length of journeys. Maybe get a proper safe smart charger/maintainer and use that as and when you feel the need to. I have a Feb 2011 Audi S4 which I don't use on short journeys if possible, I bought a CTEK smart charger to try to make life better for that battery, it was a VW Group branded Varta AGM, it never ever caused me any problems, that car does not have auto stop/start by the way, at the 10 years point, I thought that I had better replace it rather than have to suffer a battery failure due to old age, when away from home, so I replaced it with a Bosch AGM same size, still fit the CTEK now and again if that car is not being used. The original battery is still in my garage, is still being "topped up" every two months and it still, when out of circuit tests as being quite fit. My wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, with an EFB battery, during Covid I bought a second CTEK(overkill/scatter cash) and made sure it was kept topped up. That car is now at just over 54,000 miles, is used frequently, and its battery still tests okay, auto stop/start still operates if/when I allow it to - the only exemption to that is after a steady dual carriageway, ie no "zooming and braking" it can end up harvesting the battery and so when I arrive at a complex set of traffic lights that have just gone to red, I enable auto stop/start - but it is not available, very annoying watching the extremely "good" average fuel economy slowly drop back a bit! Smart charging is quite good, but could be better so that the situation I outlined does not happen, I know how to avoid it - ie just drive a bit more aggressively just avoiding getting into an accident - but why bother doing that. It's replacement battery, an AGM Bosch, bought in a panic move just before Brexit - when Costco had a good deal running, unfortunately has not been required yet - I'm hoping to off load that into older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra - but younger generation are not up for spending until after "the event", so her Exide EFB dies slowly but still gets the car started!

I'd think that your Skoda sales person will be your point of contact, he might/should be able to find out which car carrier that individual car is scheduled to be loaded onto, and a rough idea of its sailing time and route. Then, it is off to a website like "marine movements" or one with a similar name, to track the movement of that car carrier. This used to be a "jolly" game to play when you knew that your ordered car was "on its way" - my experience, unfortunately was not too good, my wife's 2015 VW Polo was coming in from South Africa as that was where VW were building RHD Polos at that time, I spent a lot of time looking for the "big" car carriers that looked like they were heading for this area of Europe - and failed, I had been looking for it going round the Horn - wrong it must have gone via the Suez canal! It was near Holland by the time I caught up with it, a complete failure on my part - then eventually spotted it in our dealer's car compound but no one knew anything about it as our sales person was holiday - oh well, at least I tried!

One late comment I'll make here, I'd never ever fit a crimp joining piece within the area of this wiring that gets flexing when the hatch is being opened - that might just be what caused the pipe to separate at that point, always make two repairs to any wires that get damaged for broken within that flexing area, one within the car's body and another within the hatch body. Also fitting a general purpose "crimp joining piece" is just being very lazy, there are better ways to effect a wiring repair so that the repair lasts long enough.

The original plan was just to provide a means a flatten the beam when driving "on the other side of the road", any built in levers etc were only for intermittent use, a car built for sale in a RHD territory will have a completely different headlamps part number to those built for sale in a LHD sales territory. Plus there will also be an issue with the rear fog light - I'd think.

I keep repeating what I did to locate a broken wire the first time, maybe on a 1978 Ford Fiesta, manipulate the rubber bellows between two fingers, typically, a broken cable will not remain "flat" at the broken ends, ie it will "turn up" a bit due to getting distorted by the repeated opening on the rear hatch - so if you are lucky you should feel this through the rubber bellows - either way, when you open up the hatch and the roof lining, you should be able to pull a wire back, make sure that when you splice in an extra length of wire to repair this, one join remains within the car body side of this bellows area and the other end remains within the hatch area - so that further flexing does not damage your repair at the joining points.

Even getting that done would mean paying 0.5 hour labour, or maybe even 1.0 hour labour if the workshop couldn't work on "parts" of an hour, in official UK VW Group workshops the labour rate can get up to £200+ an hour - location location etc. I might even have read on the official VW Group workshop manuals that the recommendation is to "crack" the wheel bolts with a breaker bar before spinning them off using a buzz gun, same when refitting them. Every time I hand my cars in for serious repair work, I replace the locking wheel bolts with normal ones - oh, and when getting tyres repaired/replaced, I always hand in wheels - doing that can save these locking bolts - and more!

But, unless the OP was lucky enough/flucky to get the same "key code", he'd still be stuck without any way to remove these existing security codes - so the cost of doing that to 4 wheel bolts would need to be factored in.

Remember that these are Magard items, but bespoke to car manufacturers, you can extend your ebay search beyond Skoda if it helps - ie all VW Group marques that use that wheel bolt size, use the common series of "lock bolts". I'm sure that Vauxhall and some others also use them, but they seem to have a different system of identifying them, from memory the spare one that I bought for my 2011 S4 is actually a "Vauxhall" one by the lettering/numbering used to identify it. The spare that I bought for the 2015 VW Polo is a VAG equivalent one by way of its identifying letter/number. Curious (maybe) fact, the security bolts on my 2011 Audi S4 have the same identifying letter as the security bolts on my wife's 2015 VW Polo - but are obviously from different series as they are completely different! Bottom line, matching by way of a picture must be the way to go - but it might be helpful to expand your search beyond VAG.

Depending on age, it might just be an O-ring seal that is leaking on the oil separator - but that was an issue with Polo/Ibiza at least back in 2009, so I'd hope that it has become a repeat issue with much newer cars. Bonded rubber mounts on rear of Citigo I can't comment on, typically it is the rear mounting on the lower front arms that causes problems with many VW Group cars.

There wasn't an "A" and a "C" in the selling dealership's trade name - was there?

Yes I can hear it now, maybe try placing your hand on the primary(master) cylinder and see if you can "feel" that noise - there will be a switch or switches on the clutch pedal or its bracket - it could be it or one of them, again spray with silicon/PTFE maintenance spray.

Not possible for me to view/listen to video "private". It might just be that the plastic parts or pedal pivot "shells" are causing that noise, maybe try spraying some silicon/PTFE maintenance spray in that area - avoiding getting on the "foot areas" of the pedals. Other than that, it just might be that the clutch action is stiffening up when the car has warmed up - and that is causing the clutch pedal pivots to be getting/seeing a higher than usual load which results in the noises that you are hearing.

I'm surprised that the service tech did not suggest buying a 1 litre top up container of the correct oil from their parts department, it seems like, well at least now and again, even brake fluid is no stocked in 1 litre packaging - as it is only usually bought in in bulk, like the engine oils, for use by the workshop.

I'm guessing that your Roomster has manual AC, so in that case, it sounds like the "hedgehog" resistor pack has failed - but as you also have a noisy fan motor, I'd reckon that it will be drawing more 12V current than normal, and that is bad news for these dropper resistor packs as more current = more heat. So, if I were you, I'd sort out the fan motor first, then once that is running normally - either by cleaning and re-lub'ng its bearings or replacing it completely, then and only then replace the dropper resistor pack. Smelly AC, make sure that the evaporator drain is clear and so still allowing collected water to drain out. As for "does it need re-gassing" - if it is still cooling okay and not making hissing noises when in use, maybe leave re-gassing for later. There will be an optimal gas charge level which provides best cooling for least engine power - but I'd not think that you would notice that too much in terms of fuel usage. Edit:- oh, and pollen filter, is it getting checked annually and replaced as and when necessary - that might affect the general hygiene/smell of the system as well in extreme cases, restricting the flow of air to/through the fan.

At least with VW cars, at some point in time, it was only the bigger cars that got "winter pack" that got "low fluid warning" built in. My wife's 2002 VW Polo with winter pack did not get "low fluid warning nor does her current 2015 VW Polo with winter pack. My personal import 2000 VW Passat 4Motion did get "low fluid warning" as it had Xenon headlights - but as it came from/through a Dutch dealership, or some other reason, the coding was set up wrong, so I needed to buy VCDS to sort that out as my local UK dealer said "tough - it needs a new dashpod, fitting and coding - and that will cost you quite a lot" - well a quick sniff around the internet and buying VCDS had that sorted sharpish without needing to buy any new dashpod - chancers! The cars that ended up with Xenon headlights, do use that low fluid sensor to stop washing the headlights when the washer fluid is getting a bit low - so leaving it for washing the windscreen only.

Probably re-gassing while still under warranty will always be charged for as these "mobile AC systems" do lose some gas across seals and plastic piping - it is expected and allowed while still being able to claim that the system is "leak free", all relative I'm afraid.

I've only done a front wheel bearing on a 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS at around 35,000miles and 8 years old - not good, I think that it was moisture that had got into one side - off side bearing, I just replaced both sides using a cheap China made(probably) kit, but bought Sealey forcing pins - just in case the China made cheapie ones failed. A bit of a worrying job to do, but it worked out fine. On the other hand, I have a "bolt on" front wheel bearing assembly waiting to get fitted to my 2011 Audi S4 - and that car has aluminium knuckles/uprights/hub carriers - so probably a lot more than just unbolting involved there, I must get brave!

Maybe so, but that is the way that my 2011 Audi S4 bonnet struts are fitted - though, as I don't use it much and it sits in the garage with the bonnet up to give the "mouse scarer" its best chance to keep field mice away, but the strut does make a lot of noise when I shut that bonnet down, so your point is relevant.

Fabia still using older "press in" wheel bearing assemblies and not "bolt on wheel bearing assembles" - so not an issue for that exact detail.

Typical the noise will change, get louder or quieter when the ambient temperature changed and maybe even when the fuel level changes. Really just the way it is with electric lift pumps, they are “rubber” mounted to try to reduce this.

I don’t think modern VW Group cars have a replaceable fuel filter after the low pressure lift pump - on petrol engines, now. Edit:- in fact, at least on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, there is no filter where that item used to be located - just in front of the RHS rear wheel.

There will be a mesh screen type of thing in the "pump in tank" assembly, that seems to be good enough with the quality of modern fuels in this general region of the world.