rum4mo

There is a “snap ring” sort of retainer around these bearing normally, freezing the bearing assembly will not do much to reduce the dimension of the retainer ring! This sounds a lot like you’ve been dealing with old style Gen1 bearings.

Are you not sure that the continual squeal AFTER you have switched the engine off, is not the turbo actuator trying and failing to recalibrate itself?

That will be them, I got it wrong. They have an ebay shop. I felt the need to add/suggest PIM as I messed up and grabbed a new Bosch ABS sensor from ECP to save money, and didn’t save so much, so going forward I’ve bought from PIM, very fast delivery!

Have a look at the "Hub nut" thread in the Rapid section, I posted a link there for a suitable tool if your bearing is a 72mm one. I bought a cheap Chinese kit and it worked well, just make sure that you use Moly grease on the forcing screw. I played safe and bought a set of similar length pins from a Sealey tools site online - these can get seen as being consumables so for the Sealey kits they provide spares, and these Chinese kits are not a lot away from being copies of whatever Sealey copied! So I can't vouch for the strength of the forcing pins, everything else worked fine, these bearings can need quite a bit of force to get them out, I got the first side (LHS) out of the 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS with 288mm discs okay without damaging the ABS sensor, but I cracked the one on the RHS, I think that it was the build up of rust scale that caused that to happen on that side, you'll probably side that removing the wheel sensor intact is not going to happen, CarPartsInMotion sell Bosch ABS sensors for not much money, from memory the 2015 VW Polo uses 4 different ones!! Each shaped to suit its location - my 2011 Audi S4 uses only 2 different ones, which is more useful. Removing the seized ABS sensors:- I just drill down into them, screw in a long MDF screw through a slide hammer attachment for pulling car panels, and yank them out, they also can require quite a bit of force as I discovered when removing one from my 2011 Audi S4 - for the 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, once the drive shaft was out of the way I just hammered a drift in from the lower end, though if I was to repeat that job, I'd just use a screw and slide hammer. Edit:- if you have any difficulty working out which bits to use when in these kits, just ask the question as I'm sure that I will have made a note of how I used it! I probably only read most of the online content covering using these kits many times before maning up and using it!

Yup, if you plan to complete this job yourself, you will need to buy a suitable GEN2 bearing removal/fitting tool kit. Measure the diameter of the hub-bearing combo when you get it, the wheel bearings on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS so with 288mm front discs, was 72mm. I just bought a cheap China made probably, kit for around £65 - that was back in August 2022. Like this:- 72 mm Front Wheel Bearing puller Tool Kit For Audi A1 A2 VW Fabia Skoda Ibiza UK | eBay UK or slightly cheaper:- 72 mm Front Wheel Bearing puller Tool Kit For Audi A1 A2 VW Fabia Skoda Ibiza UK | eBay UK

Also, I'd expect that there will be 2 rows of balls in these Gen2 bearing packs.

I don't think that they are the old style taper bearings, if they were, I'd think that you could adjust them as in the past - but there again they might still be a taper type design, if not - I've got a couple of 2011 Audi A4/S4 wheel bearing assemblies waiting to get dumped, I suppose there is one way to answer that question - though I'm sure that these Gen2 bearing packs use balls and not rollers, but not in tapered "arrays", just assembled out of press fitted parts accurately manufactured and that will be why they MUST always be held clamped while supporting a load.

The hub bearing assembly should now be considered to have suffered damage as it is this hub nut tightened onto the drive shaft that clamps the bearing pack together. It gets clamped at the inside up against the outer section of the drive shaft and the outer by that nut being screwed up onto the end of the outer section of the drive shaft. So why did it end up "coming off"? Well it has a built in tang that should stop it being able to unscrew, but these hub nuts are "one use only" items, and maybe someone has already had that nut off and just refitted it. Maybe a comment "of interest", I've removed a few of these nuts to replace struts and springs or just springs, and to replace bearing packs - on one car, I managed to end up with the factory fitted hub nut off without doing any damage to the locking tang - that was not very impressive!

For your own peace of mind, maybe just open up the key body - no doubt Google will show you how, and check what is written on the exposed face of the battery - you should not need to remove it from this version of the key fob, so no need to worry about anything going wrong. Unlike the 2 guides that I've just watched, I prefer to use a kitchen-table knife to prise open the key body, I'd rather use that than damage/bend the other key's blade! Now, VW Group always only fit Panasonic batteries, so I've always only ever bought and fitted Panasonic batteries bought online from sources that seem to sell genuine batteries and always show a picture so that you know the "use by" date of what you are buying.

It looks A 864 S is the twin pack Bosch kit you should buy. 650mm driver's side and 450mm passenger's side flat blades. Edit:- maybe plan to buy them from an online trader that specialises in selling windscreen wipers, they will know which kit is correct for your car.

Hum, seeing is believing! Now to re-check the owners handbooks, though maybe this is a more recent change, prompted by some event!

I first used these VW Group plastic "wheel hangers" back in 2000 as my May 2000 VW Passat 4Motion had a rear puncture in early life. VW supplied these plastic dowels initially to cars that didn't have locating/retaining front disc screws - so replacing a front wheel could end up getting annoying if you couldn't keep the hub wheel fixing points aligned with the disc holes - AND the wheel holes. Soon after that I bought the aluminium alloy version that VAG supply into their bigger/biggest SUVs, and they were cheap as chips from the Audi or VW main dealership. I've made sure that all of my family's VAG cars have one of these plastic dowels in the tool kit and all bought from VW Group dealerships as the price ebay sellers ask for them is nuts nowadays. Edit:- someone quoted 140Nm for the wheel torque, especially for 19" wheels, I've never spotted that before, I still use 120Nm on all our VAG cars including ones with 19" wheels.

My "stand alone" TomTom seems to get worse after each map update - maybe there is method to their madness, it used to be very trustworthy, now my wife tends to keep the 2009 AA atlas open, and yes, it needs replacing but its age does not stop it being used to drive round TomTom's routing - I've used "ECO", "SHORTEST" and "QUICKEST" and still get duff routing, okay road traffic incidents will cause it to re-route away from the obvious route, but mad routing just doesn't seem right. Used it last week going to and coming home from Yorkshire, yes a few "minor" diversions but really, what a pain - from something that used to be completely trustworthy.

@Me21 , as said in the thread that you were given a link one, the car should shut down all deemed unnecessary controllers a few minutes after the ignition has been switched off - and that should switch off all interior lights that have been left on, including the cabin and boot lights if a door or hatch is left open, so maybe there is another issue with your car that is stopping the controllers from being shut down or "put to sleep". For what it is worth, or not, most newer VAG cars were not fitted with glovebox lights, I always considered retro fitting one to my wife's 2015 VW Polo - but we've had that car from new and I've still not got round to doing that, full gloveboxes don't really need a light - maybe.

I'd be willing to guess that the rear brake calliper is now a Mando product which should be a copy of the old Girling>Lucas>? calliper, so it will be Right Handed threads for retracting the piston, so that tool should work. I'm sure that you will return to let us know if that is true.

Just another thought, to check if it is the lower arm rear mounts, park the car on level ground, out of gear and with the handbrake on firmly - now grab each of the front wheels and try to rotate them, one at a time, using your hands - if you get the same sort of noises and the wheel moves back and forwards within the wheel arch, then I'd suggest it is the lower arm bonded mounting(s), easy to replace - well relatively easy.

One area where you get get this noise from, especially in colder weather, is the front suspension top mounts - they are "rubber" and just sit in an inverted cup at the top of the struts, not much can be done if that is the issue, I've considered applying talc to the top mounting to see if that improves things - but as it is only happening in colder weather and at the start of journeys, I've not moved on that idea. Next is the lower arms rear mountings, they can tear as they are voided, and that will tend to keep making noises even when the temperature increases. Last, there is the top gearbox mounting, depending on which version is currently fitted, replacing it with one for the TDI if you have a TSI can improve things.

@D.FYLAKTOS , yes but, the OP has already physically fitted the rear parking sensors, and many people have them and "kept" their rear intact - including me - and even retro fitted front ones that work well.

One thing to consider is, if a car has needed a battery change, then probably, if the car had been "supported with a memory saver" while that duff battery was being replaced, then quite a few fault codes will have been generated simply due to that old battery becoming U/S. I always copy and/or save/print out all fault codes on my family cars BEFORE clearing them, that seems to work for me and allows me to refer back if any problems re-appear - instead of remembering/guessing what previous fault codes had been stored. On more modern cars, even if the car has not "supported" during a battery replacement, there could initially be some fault codes generated that could live on in the relevant controllers.

Is it not possible that this is just trapped air in the system eventually making its way to the coolant reservoir - and so dropping its level. Maybe poor/cheap/warranty job done and the system not fully drained down and then put under vacuum prior to backfilling with NEW coolant?

Hopefully, quite soon, you will try to compare by feel or eyes, where, when compared to the other side, these 2 screws should fit. I'm sure that VW Group will not have fitted extra screws just for a laugh.

@oryxspirited yes, disappointing really, still what I was buying was a 3 or 6 month old Ford Fiesta 1.1 Ghia 5 door, with maybe 1,500 miles on the clock, for very little money, so my wife was getting her next used car which was almost new for a change! There used to be quite a trade in these ex-Channel Island hire cars, mainly Fiestas and Nova/Corsa in UK back in 1990s, just another way for Ford and Vauxhall to boost sales figures - none of them came with manufacturer warranty though, which typically made no difference to the typical buyer who could sort out most issues themselves. Only issue was trying to get rid of the very fine sand in the cabin! Edit:- I had to get the salesman to retrieve the "lock number" tags from his wastepaper bin along with maybe the "sports key" which was a small skeleton key typically only ever used when you parked at the beach and went swimming etc.

No, I’ve never left that lead off, though I did discover that it was disconnected some days after the car had been into its supplying VW main dealership for warranty work - replacing the gearbox mounting. That lead being left off did explain why Auto Stop/Start, when allowed/enabled, no longer worked as intended.

Losing the "current" MPG would annoy me (sorry). On a sensible note, I'm sure that I've read that the general advise is unplug the BMS lead first from that dongle, and only refit it after the two main battery leads have been fitted to the new battery.

I just use a charged AGM jump pack and lead that plugs into the OBD2 port, works fine for me. I used to use a Draper one that used maybe a PP6 or PP3 battery years ago and connected to the car's battery terminals with crock clips, that worked as well, but probably slightly messier than using the jump pack and a lead that plugs into the OBD2 port. Edit:- maybe sad to say, but maybe many years ago I used a Draper memory saver that just plugged into the mains, but I'm sure that I gifted that to someone!