rum4mo

Doing this will only be a first look at the system especially while it is running under load, you should be able to check for typical running (high side) pressure for the fridge gas in your system, online - ambient temperature dependent.

I've had a rusting bearing wreck an ABS wheel sensor, it was on my 2011 Audi S4, for a few years prior to this failure, I could hear a slight scraping noise, initially only using that car after it had been left unused for a few weeks, then after maybe a mile or so, that noise stopped. Then it never stopped - then when driving it out of the garage to go for its MOT, the ABS etc lights came on, game over! So, what I discovered is, that all the bigger VW Group cars do not have any protection built in for the, at least, front, ABS sensor from road grit etc - small cars like Polo/Fabia/Ibiza have a plastic shroud to help avoid this to an extent. What does help, I discovered, is that if the wheel bearings "bleed" out a very small amount of the oil in the wheel bearings, hub and bearing inner face rusting is not normally an issue, if the wheel bearings do not "bleed" out any of the oil from the wheel bearing grease, then hub inner face and bearing face rusting can be an issue, especially when combined with only using that car periodically in winter weather. After getting the ABS sensor replaced by the MOT garage, I removed the new ABS sensor, cleaned its hole in the hub carrier out, then used a piece of dowelling cut at what I thought was a suitable angle and forced that down to contact the inner face of the wheel bearing - then rotated the wheel a few times in both directions, then applied lots of ceramic grease to the ABS sensor and refitted it. I examined the new ABS only a few days/miles after my MOT garage had replaced it, and it too had started to show signs of scoring - from contacting the rust on the bearing inner surface, so I'd expect that that new ABS sensor would have only lasted a few thousand miles if I had not cleaned up the inner face of the bearing. Getting access to that inner face to do a proper job on your car will involve removing the drive shaft - if you want to avoid a repeat of this issue. As said, you need to drive the car to clear the stored faults in some of the controllers even although you have removed the fault and cleared the ABS controller fault code.

Yup, typically Mahle rebranded to VW Group item at initial engine build and typically only Mann rebranded to VW Group item for service parts. I tend to look for VW Group at sensible prices and also for current Mann prices, and buy which ever is cheapest at the time.

Just a comment from personal experience:- I contacted my local Fuchs oil sales rep as I had considered buying a "suitable/correct" oil for my cars, but from a aftermarket brand that were known to use Fuchs as their source, the question I (naively) asked was "is ***'s product ABC the as your Fuchs XYZ ?" and the answer that I got was that the additive package that they use in customer's oils is closely matched to the area of the market that they are selling into - ie price dependant. So I think that that answered my question/suspicions concerning aftermarket brands when comparing them to main stream oil brands.

@wiilydog , sad to say that I've just seen that YouTube video about that issue, ie after roughly 80,000miles expect it - horrible!

You could always check on the opieoils website to see which "weight" or options of "weight" of engine oil you could use to start with. I'd think that it will be a 0W-?? that will be suggested so that you can retain the emissions and fuel economy that the manufacturer quoted - but then maybe you'd rather go for slightly better protection and so aim for a 5W-30 oil. It might depend on what sort of annual mileage you typically do in this car, for years I've stuck with Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 which is an oil that claims to a bit more tolerant to LSPI which many modern DI petrol engines can end up suffering from probably due to slight misuse - but there again my cars are not brand new, don't have variable oil pressure control and have not been marketed to be used with 0W-?? engine oils.

Changing the fluid every 2 years stops that happening.

That is high oil usage. Maybe check that the crankcase emissions "stuff" on top of the engine are working okay - is there a high vacuum when you remove the oil filler cap?

Just seeing as comment has been about Goodyear Allseason tyres ending up cracking, my daughter chose Goodyear Winter tyres for her 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra - and bought "one size down" alloys to use them with. That worked out very well for her, until, she was "too busy" to let me or her partner swop the wheels/tyres over after winter 2024-2025, so at MOT time in April/May 2026, with these Winter tyres being used in some hot weather in Summer 2025, she got advisories for both the original pair of Winter tyres which were now on the rear, luckily, the front pair had already been replaced as one ended up with a serious puncture, and these maybe 5 years newer same brand/version Winter tyres, did survive that use through Summer weather. While the classification of the advisories were for "cracking", I think that also included "damaged" - there was tearing visible on the sips areas on these tyres. Hopefully she has learned a lesson wrt using full winter tyres in hot summer time - though maybe Michelin and others will "accept" that use - I have left Pilot Alpins on my 2011 S4 over the past few summers, but I only use that car for longer journeys and if I know that I will plan to use it in hot summer weather, I'll definitely swop over to summer wheels/tyres before going out on a longer journey.

It really does make life easier if you remove the handbrake cable - just flick it out using a screwdriver, clean the lever and grease it and the ball end of the cable - I do this every 2 years when I service/clean the brakes. The handbrake cable can then be removed from its mounting on the calliper, so apply a bit of "squeezing" effort to its locking sleeve and push it back out of its mounting. Just my suggestions for the "next time".

Normally you can get a lot better access if you remove the handbrake cable and unclip a couple of brake pipe clips. I might e wrong, but I think that in the past, I've temporarily fixed the removed calliper back to the calliper carrier by using the bottom calliper bolt hole fitted into the top calliper carrier guide pin - to help with keeping an troublesome calliper in control while fighting with the piston retracting - I think that I've even resorted to slightly moving the handbrake lever when a piston could not be rotated easily - at first.

@JohnMack , wrt the Lesjofors springs that you fitted to your Dad's Focus, I think that was probably due to the lack of paint or surface protection being applied to these springs by Lesjofors, I think that Lesjofors product should be good quality as they are in the "steel for springs" business, but I've sadly discovered that after just one year - or just one Scottish winter, all 4 Lesjofor springs are showing signs of surface rust - so my cunning plan of replacing the original VW Group springs on my wife's 2015 Polo after 10 years - to avoid suffering a snapped spring, will possibly have backfired on me! I've just had too many snapped springs at inconvenient times in the past, so for once I've tried to avoid this on this 2015 Polo. And I'll repeat what Carlston said about many aftermarket brands offering a "short" range to cover a "large" range of VW Group part numbers, both for springs and dampers - my wife's 2015 Polo now sits almost "flat" instead of being raised at the rear, which is okay as it looks better and normally only 2 of us are in that car - Lesjofors did list a matching front spring for that car but excluded "5 door" and the actual correct part number for the rear springs - so I took a chance!

I'd just buy a genuine VW Group oil filter while the car is still within warranty, doing that must save/avoid a lot of messing about if anything associated with the engine does need warranty work. Okay the factory fitted filters tend to be Mahle with VW Group re-branding, and the service parts tend to be Mann with VW Group re-branding - but typically there is not much savings to be made between genuine VW Group and Mann if you buy with care.

Maybe I'm picking you up wrong, but, after switching the ignition off and staying in the car, the controllers will go to sleep after a certain time, and 10 minutes sounds about right, so after that, the electric windows will not work - unless you flick the ignition ON/OFF again. Also, if you, for instance, have a passenger in the car and after you switch the ignition off, as soon as they open a door then close it - the electric windows will not work unless you - as in the previous paragraph, flick the ignition ON/OFF.

That’s annoying, I tried to remove them from my wife’s 2002 Polo - on the day we went to collect her new 2015 Polo, but unfortunately I had not left enough time to get the hard plastic peg bits out! So I had to buy a new set for that car, hopefully I’ll plan ahead a bit better when that 2015 Polo runs out of useful life!

From VW Group, ie Audi TT Mk1, these jacking point protectors came as 2 parts, first you'd remove the cover that was fitted to cover these 4 holes in the body, then press in the rubber part 8N0 804 583, once it was fully located in the body, you'd fit the hard plastic locking peg part number 8N0 803 855 normally by jacking up under it with a suitably sized socket on the trolley jack saddle - and continue jacking until it "pop'd" fully into its location. After that has been done, the rubber protector is locked in position and the hard plastic flat top'd peg it there for you to safely jack up under. If I was you, I'd be removing these rubber protectors until you can get hold of the hard plastic peg parts - and just jack up under the body at these points using a suitable material to cushion between the trolley jack saddle and the metal of the car body. Now for the bad news, I've just checked an online VW Group parts listing and while the rubber parts are still available, the hard plastic peg part was dropped by VW Group in 01/04/2023 with no replacement provided. Maybe the Powerflex etc kits still have their own version of these hard plastic pegs, and maybe this explains why your car has the rubber parts fitted but no hard plastic pegs!

Was this car bought used, if so I'd reckon that the previous owner fitted these Audi TT Mk1 jacking point protectors, and either did not bother to also fit the hard plastic locking element to them - or, attempted to remove them before the sale but failed to get the rubber part out of the body. I'd be a bit wary about using these rubber pads until you have bought the plastic locking element that fits inside them. If you need the part number for the hard plastic locking element I can find it and hand it over - there should be 4 of these pads - do none of them have a hard plastic locking element fitted into them?

It will probably depend on which scan tool/prog you use with it.

I myself would have thought that a Yuasa brand of battery is a safe bet, but it seems, from more informed professional sources that that is not true - some trade people only trust Varta. Bosch and Varta seem to share manufacturing facilities - but that does not necessarily mean they are the "same" battery with just different colours used on the cases. Varta for VW Group tend to get JCB to manufacture their batteries - so who know! I've had success from Bosch - both AGMs, one a direct AGM to AGM replacement only due to age (10 years) and one an EFB to AGM replacement again only due to age (10 years) - in both cases updating the car's battery/charging system controller using VCDS.

Your correct, thanks there is no "L" in the 94224 version. The "04E" and "05E" were taken from the VW Group parts listing. Edit:- both the VW Group part numbers that I quoted were listed against a quantity of "3" I avoided listing any that were listed against a quantity of "4" so that should have removed any 1.4TSI or 1.5TSI ones.

Okay, VW Group p/n 04E 905 602 D is the same as NGK ILKER7A8EGS stock number 94224 and it has a 19mm reach according to the NGK UK spare parts web cat - and that is what they claim suits Skoda Karoq 1.0TSI 2022 MY, the Skoda VW Group parts listing also offers 05E 905 602 B which is the same as NGK ILKER7B8EGS stock number 91512 and it is listed as having a 26.6mm reach but only used with PR:DS8 - whatever that version is! Edit:- typically the change from "A" to "B" is just a heat/temperature change, why this, in this case seems to coincide with a "reach" change is strange - I'm just using the "A" and the "B" versions of the plugs my wife's car uses to make that observation, nothing more. Heat change does normally affect the exposure or shrouding of the centre electrode though.

I think that that only works if you can link the VW Group part number with the NGK stock number, at one time, the VW Group branded NGK also had the NGK number on them, but not now I seem to remember.

opie oils is only okay if your are getting best price AND over the "free delivery" limit.

I agree wrt NGK, try their website for model etc and use that info.

Just general comments really, I fussed about this when I had my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion and at that time, maybe round about 2005, the "AC bombs" seemed to have a long tube and that needed feeding into the air plenum box - but I didn't actually complete that task! By the time that I got round to re-visiting that task with later cars, all the "AC bombs" had done away with the long tube, and the plan was now to just start up the car with all windows closed, turn on the AC on recirc, place the bomb on the floor in the rear of the car, and set it off, close doors and leave the car for a certain length of time, then open the door, switch off the engine and remove the now empty bomb container - job complete. I've used that method but removed the pollen filer first then closed the pollen filter cover, and fitted a new Frecious pollen filter after running that AC bomb. Edit:- sorry that I didn't answer your question exactly, but in all these cars the AC evaporator is inside the cabin heater box, along with and beside, the heater matrix. So, that is a closed mainly plastic box and getting into that area in a way that allows full access to the evaporator - will be a very big job, so all you can try is to use one or two of these "AC bombs" and that should kill the bugs and most of the smell.