rum4mo

That was not the point that I was swerving around! Any certified place will initially recover and vac out any AC system that they deal with, but after passing this GO/NO GO vac holding test, they can still be reasonable leaks, so no laws are being broken when they recharge - and off you go only to end up having this same issue 2 or 3 months down the line. It is just the way it is. I used to get frowned on from above when I always demanded leak fixing on big systems, but doing that meant they remained in use (fridge gas wise) for a long time. And that was even when we complied with F-Gas rules absolutely, no dodgy business allowed!

Aye, you'd need to be very creative with an exhaust bandage to sort that out! It is probably where my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI exhaust will fail as well, that needs looking at BEFORE it gets handed in for an MOT next month. Edit:- my first expensive rear box was for my 1991 Vauxhall Cav GSI 4X4, it cost well over £100 back in maybe 1998 - I didn't mind that as it was a genuine part and it was for MY car, though I was still used to the "normal at that time" round about £75 for a complete exhaust!

Maybe cheaper to use somewhere like ATS etc for a quick recharge. That should get you through this hot period and if it loses that gas again quickly, ie by next summer, then either "repeat" or get a proper car AC place to locate and resolve the leak.

A tool that is the same as T10530 will help you yank the plugs out, I played safe (as usual) and bought a tool before I first removed the plugs from a TSI engine. As said, the access area and "available bulk" of the top of the coil does seem to make that sort of tool not really essential, but I bought one and always use it when changing plugs on these engines. One other thing, it is advisable to apply some dielectric grease - in a ring, around the bottom end of the coil contact thing, the plan here is to stop the rubber of that coil contact bonding itself to the ceramic of the spark plug - when that happens, the coil contact extension could part company from the coil - which is not too big a deal, but getting the "stuck on" coil contact extension off the spark plug will be needed before you can get a spark plug socket on the spark plug. I believe applying compressed air down into/through that coil contact extension can be used to break the bond. Though using a dielectric grease should stop it happening - some whitish grease will have been applied when initially assembling these engines.

Looks like that car has already had its rear box replaced - as you can see the join in the pipe further up. It looks so easy to move that rear box that I'd think that the pipe "going into it" or the rear of that rear box has rotted out. As above - time to visit an exhaust place.

When you take this car into a workshop that understands Auto AC systems, I'd think that they would fit their test manifold-gauges to this system and be in a position to start to work out what is happening - or not happening. All VW Group cars tend to have a potentially faulty AC pressure sensor at some time or the other, either they end up leaking or just otherwise "not good".

This issue has affected any/all versions of the EA211 family of engines since they were launched, but not very frequently - so VW Group, at least in Europe market territory, have walked away from this issue along with the "fuel rail bolt head snapping" issue. Everyone who is able to do so and has any of the engines from this family of engines, should be checking the camshaft bolts at service time, if only to avoid suffering from resulting problems from if/when these bolts slacken off. There will be signs of engine oil leaking out of that variable timing unit if the bolts are slackening off - there should never be any oil in that timing belt area of the engine if all is well.

Maybe one or some of the new bulbs are not the exact/correct power/wattage. One other thing, if you had bought this car used, maybe, just maybe, previous owner had swopped some filament bulbs for LED versions, and made changes in the car's BCM coding so that the "faulty light" warning then did not come on, and now that the rear clusters have been replaced, the bulbs currently fitted will now be back to being filament bulbs. You'd need to get someone to check the coding for the lights to work that one out.

Oh well, you've installed it, it can see the ABS controller - but more to do!

I'd get over that issue by placing the axle stands under the sill strong points and trolley jack under these inboard points. Both with suitable adaptors or protection.

Brembo aftermarket brake pads - they tend to be of lower quality than Brembo pads for Brembo brakes, it has been said. Their worst weakness is the quality of the pad backing piece which frequently seems to be slightly too small and roughly cut out whereas OEM quality pads backing pieces get punched out for accuracy - to minimise/stop this rattling. That if is not from my personal experience, but from someone who works on/tests brake parts.

The banging is probably due to that flap motor assembly having lost its positional feedback, a common issue for any flap motor on any VW Group over the past 20 or so years! Or, the flap it is trying to move has ended up with restricted movement. In its "lowest" form, this just leads to a knocking noise as the servo system ends up "hunting", at its worst, it will have forced apart the motor casing or even broken its mounting frame and some ones. The weakness in these flap motors can end up being that they are never "exercised" enough, so the potentiometer track and/or its contact end up getting "dirty" as far as being able to make good contact is concerned, so it ends up being demanded to move from its usual clean position to a new position - but the track can be dirty at that point, so the positional feedback control gets lost - and the system ends up hunting back and forwards trying to get to its demanded position which is done by applying a known voltage that has been stored during initial setup - but it can't reach that exact position. Edit:- no doubt someone will reply with help on how to replace this flap motor or at least help you look into why/what is causing this, I've only had, so far, one car with that issue, and it was a 2000 VW Passat 4Motion - and that motor in a RHD version of that car, was located too close to the side of the car to let me just swop flap motors, so that function remained U/S after it started to fail as I wasn't going to go the bother of removing the dashboard - I think Fabia etc is easier to work on though!

That bigger one looks to be the correct one, from memory on Polos, 2002 and 2015, the bung that I removed and replaced with Audi Mk1 TT jacking point protectors looked more like the small one - but things seems to have changed - by "looks" I mean the recessed part and not the size.

@Ruthieroo , any update on this issue - feeding back into forum threads after asking and getting advice is always a good plan.

@faxiw , any progress or update on this issue yet?

@nta16 MAP please, not MAF and there are a couple of them. True about the better cleaning properties of the UL+, but even increasing the Octane rating of the fuel might quickly reveal a change which might help sort this "fluffing" activity. When I had that very slightly with my wife's 2015 same engine Polo, maybe because I had had that with the previous 2002 Polo 1.4, I was extremely quick in spotting it - but maybe after a single tankful of UL+ it went away and so far stayed away - why/how I don't know, but it does not do that now at all - and I will quickly feel it when/if it returns - a really horrible feeling especially when these 1.2TSI engines, well at least the 110PS version, are brilliant in terms of drivability and fuel economy.

Have you tried running it with a full tank of UL+ - maybe even Esso, to see if this improves things while you are using it or even if this "goes" away after using a tank of UL+? I'm sure that my wife's 2015 Polo 6MT with that engine code ended up at round about 50,000miles, with a slight hint of that - that really worried me, but I loaded up with a full tank of UL+ Esso and it disappeared, car now at just over 59,000miles and excluding that tank full of UL+, is now back to fuelled with Costco UL. My wife's previous car - a 2002 Polo 1.4 75PS 5MT did have a bit of that, but after replacing the EGR valve - no change, MAP sensor - no change, oil separator - it ended up not being very good at trapping oil, it seemed to run better especially if I used UL+ in the tank. Horrible feeling when you have that! Edit:- what is the mileage?

Hum "flexible-ish" black plastic tubing, oh dear - progress! I suppose that you buy a similar product and a suitable joining piece and fit the new tubing to the light/jet and make the join well back inside the body of the car. Edit:- one version is 6V6 956 663 or another 6V6 956 663 A probably depend on the age of your car, maybe estate pipe is longer, it seems to be quite cheap. I'd hope that you can find and buy a joining piece so that you can fit the new hose end to the high level brake light housing jet and just splice in a shortish section and form a join back within the car's body area and so well away from the rear hatch hinge point. Another Edit:- just a typical ebay link Windscreen Washer Pipe Repair Kit - SKODA FABIA - 2000 - 2019 - Tube Fix | eBay UK

I can't think of a good easy way to find any or all the leak sites on a fridge system, yes if you are lucky you will find "damp" area(s) where the system oil has escaped along with some gas charge. After that it will be up to using a pumped sniffer and/or an acoustic sensor, then adding in some dye and pressure of Nitrogen. The system pressure sensors have always tended to end up leaking - or at least many do - and then there is the evaporator - having a leak in there would a bit annoying to sort out.

Also consider that it might just be a damaged ABS sensor cable - maybe damaged when you were working on the suspension.

Sounds like a cooling fan(s) controller issue - how long did they run for, I'm just asking that as it sounds like them running did not flatten the battery - could this also be due to an electric cooling pump failure which is allowing a local area to be at a high temperature, and that area is a sensor where part of the fan controller gets triggered from?

I’d change the one on the inlet plenum/box first, and I’d doubt if both sensors will have a failed temperature probe. Parts in Motion via their ebay store are very easy to deal with and fast despatch and so fast delivery in my experience.

Parts in Motion list for £23.24 It is a Bosch part and both VAG and Bosch part numbers are listed on it, Ie 03G 906 051 E and 0281 002 977

I’ve just edited my previous post.

I’ve forgotten what/where the 3) one is, it might even be the same part number as 1). Plus I’m not a home at the moment. Ideally you would check to see what 1)’s signals are using a scan tool. Edit:- I’d guess that 1) and 3) are MAP sensors so both contain a temperature sensor, 1) monitoring the Turbo O/P and 3) monitoring the inlet manifold box near the cylinder inlet.