Gammyleg

It still looks a bit sludgy to me. The flushing agents are a two pack, pink and clear. The invoice also includes a for new tank which I guess has no silica bag. Typical scary main dealer pricing for the heater matrix, £283.86 vs £49.00 from Autodoc, ditto the flushing agents ( aka Clean Set ).

Maybe some ptfe tape on the valve thread would help stop the corrosion?

My old bus remembers so not a problem I have. I use it all the time, great fun. I does help that I've got a couple of long downhills on the way home and often overtake when coasting.

As far as I know, and based on my car only, coasting is only available in ECO. I've never experienced it in Normal.

My usual indy. Time-served VW tech who has done plenty of DSGs in the past I'm led to believe I'd like to think this was done but I'll inquire when I next speak to him. He admits to not being a guru with a VCDS but he seems to know his way around the essentials. Probably why he's never offered to do a deep-dive into the system. The software update was done by Skoda when I took the car in to get the Drive Mode function fixed. They had two attempts and I'd booked a third visit before discovering that they'd actually fixed the issue but they hadn't actually realised it. Duh!! Again I'll ask. I've watched stacks of youtube videos learning the process so I can fully appreciate the importance of shimming & tolerances but It's a job I'd happily do myself if I had facilities. With the right tools it's not exactly complicated. The slow/lazy clutch engagement during gear changes with associated increase in revs, anything from 100 - 1500rpm on a bad day, and has been going on since I got the car 4 years ago. I bought the VCDS not long after to hopefully help diagnose the problem, which is why I'm keen to know what I can safely do and what I should avoid. The new clutch pack, flywheel etc was a attempt to fix it but it's done absolutely nothing. If anything it's worse now and can happen with any shift from 1 - 5. 6 to 7 is usually good and snappy. Prior to the software and clutch change it was usually only even to odd changes up to 5th. I've had a few re-adaptations done over the years and a couple of 'autobodge' specialists have a look and shrug their shoulders with disinterest saying "it's not as bad as a BMW box"

Thanks for the heads-up, however it's the connector attached to the loom, not the one on the sensor that's toast.

Oddly, even though the weather was extremely wet, the first 150 miles went off without a hitch. Once it dried out though the warning light came on. I suspect that the wires are now touching which is what's set it off. I think I'll cut off both connectors and apply some solder & heat shrink to fix. I am wondering whether the brake pad warning light being illuminated would constitute an MOT failure?

Yes, clutch pack, flywheel, cam belt, water pump, mechatronic oil change, transmission oil change, engine oil & filters plus bottom crank seal. Also the DSG software has recently been upgraded from OCW 300 048 N to OCW 300 042 F

I'd like to do a re-adaption of my transmission and so far have unsuccessfully run IDE-02903 Basic Settings of Transmission, ignition on, engine off. It starts off ok ( a few clunks and bangs heard as the transmission resets ) but after about a minute or so it will come back with a malfunction error message and doesn't finish the operation. Thereafter I've run IDE-02906, Reset Clutch Data, IDE-02908 Clutch Movement Pressure & IDE-02909 Double Clutch Fast Adaptation successfully ( they take less than 1 sec each to complete ) I've gone no further with this as I'm mindful of the fact that some operations in 'Basic Settings' can cause big problems if carried out incorrectly or out of sequence, could anyone advise which of the below could be deemed to be Safe to carry out, ie not going to 'brick' the transmission. My DQ200 clutches are still slow to engage during gear changes with revs rising 500 - 2000 rpm when shifting, and the recent injection of £2.5k has achieved absolutely now't.

Correct, it is the offside ( driver's side) that has the wear sensor. Unfortunately I managed to damage the connector that runs from the car to the pad when trying to disconnect it. It's become quite brittle over time and it fractured when I tried to wiggle it loose with a pair of pliers. I can see the bare wires now and there exposed to the elements so the first bit of wet weather will doubtless set off the warning light. I don't have the requisite glue/sealants with me at the moment so will have to take another look tomorrow. The only crescent visible was on the original pad with the wear sensor. It was indented on the back plate of the pad but seemed to line up exactly with the contact area of the caliper piston which is odd as it means that the piston is not in full contact with the back of the pad. Anyhoo, done for the moment, I've taken it out for a quick spin round the car park and all seems in order. 50 mile trip home shortly should fully confirm success....or not.

Yeah, when I changed the rear pads last year I fitted the DriveTec ones then, and it looked like I had a daily commute through the Sahara for about a month afterwards. Extremely dusty but it's calmed down now.

Nope, nothing. All four pads are identical bar the one with the wear indicator attached. They are DriveTec ( GSF brand ) btw

Just picked up the new pads and there does indeed look to be only one pad with a built-in sensor.

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll keep a lookout for this.

Excellent! Thanks petrolcan.

Looking to change my front brake pads shortly so just checking there are no hidden steps over & above the standard remove pads, reset caliper pistons & replace pads method? eg no need for VCDS to reset or register the changeover?

What area of the country are you?

And back then the headrests were an optional extra😄

The G12 EVO option should allow you to run without the silica bag.

Whilst I applaud the effort going into the refurb and greatly appreciate the superb photos and detail that accompany it, I would have to agree. The incredible amount of rust on just about every surface makes me wonder whether the previous owner regularly parked in a salt bath. I am looking forward to seeing the end result though. 🙂

If there is no sign of leakage from your recent trip to Italy, it may be the case that when the belt & pump were replaced the coolant system wasn't refilled correctly. It requires the use of a VCDS or similar to ensure all the air is allowed to be purged from the system. When I had my belt & pump done for the first time the garage didn't do it properly and I had the low coolant messages pop up periodically for about 2 weeks after. I topped up the reservoir each time and after a couple of weeks it stabilised. Good choice....maybe.😃

What were the symptoms this time around?

Who needs one antenna when you can have eight!! And still the DAB reception can be poor. 😁

Assuming it's a little black shark fin, mine is on the roof at the back. The Superb DAB is not perfect however it's much better than our works Transit Connect van which has dreadful reception.

Agreed but that depends on what it fails on and the severity. If i'd told them what to fix in advance of the test and they chose not to, I'd be a tad miffed. My car failed last year on inoperative rear fog lights. It's now recorded as such in the MOT history. It failed because the MOT tech didn't know how to switch them on.