Gammyleg

Check the voltage when cranking the engine on the key. Anything below 10 - 10.5v indicates a likely failing battery.

I think the battery CCA ( Cold Cranking Amps ) is the most significant check to be carried out. 12.5v when switched off & 14.5v when running doesn't really tell you much. I believe anything below 10.5v when cranking indicates it may be due for replacement.

The last two pairs of Dunlop Sportmaxx's on the rear of my car did the same. Since fitted Michelin CrossClimate 2's all round and most importantly got it 4 wheel tracked at the same time. There was some adjustment available to the rear alignment and the fitter managed to just squeeze it within the specified parameters and it's been fine ever since.

It's an "age" thing. 30 years ago I'd have loved it, now it p1sses me off. Akin to attaching playing cards to the frame of your pushbike and into the spokes of your wheels when you were a kid.

Well nothing noticed on the way back home. I don't think there's much wrong with my engine TBH, it's just that I saw the Redex on offer in Lidl and was inquisitive enough to buy it. I've seen a few additive comparison videos on youtube over the years and for the most part they do seem to show a slight improvement in economy and, when checked before and after on a rolling road, torque & bhp. The latter I'm not fussed about but if I could squeeze a few more mpg out of it I'd be happy.

Bought 2 bottles of Redex diesel additive from Lidl for £4.99. Added first one this morning with a tankful of fuel. Lets see what happens....if anything.

Would be good to know how.

Probably not essential to get the oil seal changed immediately but it not likely to repair itself. I left mine for 6 months after being told it had a slight leak. I finally got it changed when the clutch pack was replaced as most of the cost of repair will be labour charge.

It is on mine.

Not a look that I particularly like, but then it's horses for courses I guess.

Sounds most likely cause. Employ your nose as well, if it were not engine oil but transmission oil then it has an aroma all of it's own.

Mine did. Some frantic pressing of all available buttons and switches, opening and closing of doors and a bit of swearing managed to switch it off. Don't ask which of these did the trick though as I've no idea.

Fingers crossed it just needs a few more longer journeys to set it right again. It appears that there is quite a drain on the battery when the car doesn't get used much, particularly during winter months. So much tech on board that never sleeps.

If it is a weak battery, the Stop-Start system ( if you use it ) also may not function as regularly as it used to.

No but the G13 stamp implies there should be a bag in there. G13 wasn't recommended for use without the bag. Some of the tanks are twin-walled with the bag out of sight in between.

Worth adding, for the most part you shouldn't lose many, if any, pre-sets such as radio stations or bluetooth pairings when swapping the battery, although you may encounter some faults showing on initial start up. These can usually be fixed by taking the car for a short drive incorporating a lock-to-lock steering operation. I somehow manged to set the alarm off when I disconnected my old battery. I had no idea how to switch it off so just pressed everything I could think might be relevant until it finally silenced. No idea how I did it.

As mentioned previously, I believe some do remember the last setting and some don't. Luckily mine does. It's set to 'eco' and doesn't change unless I press the mode button. I have a suspicion that the button is only illuminated when 'D' is selected, anything else and the button stays dark. I'll check tomorrow....too cold now to venture out.🥶

Do you ever run the car for any length of time with the AC switched off? Could be a build-up of moisture sitting in the ducting that has gone rancid. If so, it'll need to be evaporated off by setting the AC to max temperature & max fan speed and take it out for a 20-30min run. Finish off with an AC cabin cleaner bomb.

I lost nothing when I did mine. That was with a full battery disconnect rather than trying to piggy-back off another battery during the changeover.

I don't have that problem when using the car USB and phone navigation. Seems to keep pace fine and will gradually charge my phone up. My two previous cig lighter usbs both gave up after a short period, although one of them I'm sure was a fake of a good brand.

Not been hidden in the boot somewhere by the previous owner?

Random Q, Would you expect the engine oil temperature to rise when the engine is carrying out a regen whilst driving? Just wondering as it could be a good indicator as to when a regen is being carried out.

Mine does the same. Started with the driver's side and spread to the passenger side. I'll leave it until it stops working before I take a look. I have heard that these switches can be a bit suspect. There is a reset operation that can be done which may help. There are some posts on here which run through the process. Didn't work for me though.

Is it the same fuse position as the one listed for the glove box light? If not, locate the correct fuse location for the glove box light and remove the fuse. If the light stays lit after removing the fuse the extra red wire must be for something else.

Mine struggles to blow air into the footwells. I did the flap reset operation and it improved, but just a bit. I can't remember the exact method but there are a good few posts on Briskoda that detail what to do.