Gammyleg

For a standard drain & refill, my Superb DQ200 mechatronic takes exactly 1ltr of oil. If you were to fully dismantle the mechatronic unit this volume would increase by about 100ml as some of the oil remains in the galleries & accumulator. The oil reference is G055512A2. I think it is the same for all DSGs.

Not if you have to pay for retest it's not. Bugs the f*** out of me why people can't follow simple instructions!! It seems endemic these days in all walks of life.

Your symptoms do not indicate a problem with the accumulator, which is what the basic repair kit comprises of, so an trans & mech oil change followed by the software update would be my first choice options If the repair kit was needed you would likely have fault codes showing and warning messages/lights on the dash and a transmission that doesn't work at all. The mineral mech oil required is power steering fluid and it should be bright green.

I had the same problem with mine, there should be a post on here somewhere. It would only happen when starting the car with the button ( not from a stop/start event ). I kind of got used to this inconvenience but have just realised that since I had the mechatronic oil and transmission oil changed last December it has stopped happening. Worth trying before spending out on expensive diagnostics and best-guess replacements. The Skoda advice that the DQ200 does not need oil changes is garbage. Get it done, when you see the colour of the old Mech oil you'll see why.

If it has a DSG gearbox, ignore the Skoda service schedule which states that neither the transmission or the Mechatronic oils need never to be changed, it most certainly does!! My transmission & Mech oils were changed for the first time @ 175,000 miles. The transmission oil looked surprisingly good however the mech oil looked like rancid brown sludge rather than bright green which it should be.

My DQ200 has plenty of faults but clunking isn't one of them.....yet.

My crankshaft seal was £104.21 + fitting. It was done as part of T/Belt, water pump, clutch pack, flywheel, DSG & Trans oils service in Dec last year. The fitting cost was lumped in with the 5hrs charged for the belt & pump replacement ( £250 )

Any decent indy would likely have one to hand. A friendly one might do it for free, or maybe no more than £20. It's a 5 minute job. Dealers often have a minimum charge just to plug it in. Some say yes, some say no.

x 2.

Mine had a failure for inoperative rear fog lights which was odd as they've never been used. Turned out he didn't know how to switch them on.

Yes it's a normal function but I would say NO to it doing it every time you switch off. After 3 and a half years of ownership I can count on the fingers of one hand how often mine has done a regen after a switch off. 95% of my journeys are 50+ miles though which does allow for regens on-the-move. I suspect that there may be a problem with your DPF, eg it's clogged up.

179k miles. Mech & trans oils changed ~ 5000 miles ago, both for the first time!! Trans oil looked OK but the Mech oil was a murky brown colour rather than original green. Because of that I might get the Mech oil changed again at the next service and treat the current refill as a flush. Clutch pack is new, as is the flywheel. Both changed in the hope of fixing the slippery changes, which they have not.

Thanks again fr1nkln, although you may note that the last post on the ross-tech thread you suggested is from me.😁. The OP's menu options look to be different to the ones I have. I'll do a screen shot and post when I work out how to do it. I will revisit it again though, to see if I can make any further progress. I retried last night after my 50mile shlep home from work but no change, still unable to run either 'reset values' or 'basic settings' from the menu. On a side note, I did manage to change the driving profile on Module 44 from Incremental to Direct which has made a small but noticeable difference to the shifting behavior, particularly with the engagement/duration/shift point of 1st gear. Whereas with the Incremental setting it was difficult/impossible to detect the shift between 1st & 2nd gear as it happened almost instantly and at very low revs, 1st gear now holds-on up to 1800 - 2000rpm before shifting into 2nd. Overall acceleration has also pepped-up and the car seems far more responsive. The underlying issue with slippery gear shifting still exists though which is what i'm trying to cure.

Thanks for the heads-up, unfortunately the Ross-Tech instructions are for the older CAN protocol system. Mine is UDS so the menu options are completely different.

Resurrecting this thread with a query. Not an Octavia III but a Superb III with DQ200 but assume principles/measures are the same: Followed the OP's video clip and opened Auto Transmission Basic Settings then..... Tried 'Reset All Adaptation Values' . Got - "Error : Request Out of Range". Tried the next option - 'Basic Settings for Transmission'. Got - "Aborted Due to Malfunction". I don't have 'Calibration of Synchro Points' so unable to select. ( any suggestions as to an alternative? ) Tried 'Start Double Clutch Fast Adaptation'. This was command was accepted although the process finishes in less than a second. The above were done both with ignition on/engine off and also engine running. Not sure which would be preferred setting. Any ideas?

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There's some rough women round your way!

I've tried this method a few times with my DQ200. I've watched plenty of youtube videos demonstrating it but I've noticed that they never show a 'before' clip so you can't judge how effective the alleged reset has been. In my case, ( and after throwing a further £2k at the problem ) it did absolutely nothing.

I have that method filed under 'Urban Myth'

To do it properly, a VCDS as a minimum.

Totes.

How far off the kerb does it leave you? The self-park feature on my previous Merc would leave me anything between 6 - 8" off which, where I live/park, would be the difference between having 1 or 2 wing mirrors the next morning. Don't have this extra on my SE and happy not to. ( it was fun showing people though )

Any idea why AdBlue systems are so dumb? Not just Skoda but all makes seem to have the problem of not registering partial refills. Fuel systems don't require a minimum fill-up so why should the AdBlue?

I believe that by removing the silica bag or replacing the expansion bottle with a NON mit silkat bottle you should only use G12 evo antifreeze. The G13 does not give the required protection.

I think the question maybe aimed at the fact that the recommended antifreeze should be G12 evo not G13.