Gammyleg

Wouldn't it be great if a failing battery meant the warning light on the dash didn't switch off after starting the car. I mean, how hard could it be? The cynic in me would suggest that the reason is that by doing this the dealers would miss out on stacks of wasted hours trying to track down faults that don't exist and are caused entirely by a bad battery.

A regular early sign is the stop/start feature stops working.

Has he had the Pedal assembly changed yet? An upgrade to a pedal box could be a cheaper option ( assuming the original pedal still has basic functionality ) and would improve performance characteristics massively. Easy diy fit too.

Most likely. I've had it happen on a few of my cars. Always an intermittent thing and usually nothing to worry about. Something like what your fridge sounds like when it switches off sometimes.

Wondering whether you could identify and trace the pipework in the engine bay related to the heating system to check if it's all getting up to temperature ( thinking air lock or blockage ). Relatively easy in an older car but probably not-so in a more 'advanced' vehicle with numerous a/c, vacuum and coolant circuits.

Won't be the first time a main dealer has given incorrect advice.

In my experience adblue systems are the same. Even half filling them will sometimes not register.

The Skoda is likely the same but requires connecting to VCDS or similar to sequence the process correctly. I think it can be done without a VCDS but it may take time to fully purge the system of air which is probably what was happening with mine over the two week period, and may be happening with the OP's car. Assisted by the illuminated low coolant warning light, i'd wait for the system to fully cool down, remove the cap and then refill to the max level. After a while the warning light would cease to come on anymore and the problem went away. It's worth noting that the default coolant level in my expansion tank is 'Min'. If I were to top it up to 'Max', within a day it would again default back to 'Min' again and stay there.

If the correct coolant filling procedure was not carried out there may well be air locks in the system. Mine took a couple of weeks to settle down after my water pump was changed with top ups needed for the duration.

Does your expansion tank have a Silica bag in it? ( It should be stamped on the tank 'Mit Silikat'). These have a habit of spilling their contents into the coolant system and blocking the matrices which may be a possible cause of the overheating.

Was that 4 wheel tracking or just the fronts? The Superb is renown for uneven tyre wear but it's usually the back wheels that cause a problem. Mine chewed through two sets before I got it 4 wheel tracked and had all offsets brought back into spec. Since then it's been perfect.

Unfortunately yes.

Good spot! I looked-up my Superb and toyed with the idea of printing off the diagrams until I noticed that it is 7862 pages long!!😆 I think the download option might be better.

So looks like an "h" module running "g" software.

Every right to have no confidence. My Skoda dealer had my car in twice for a repair which they said they were unable to fix. When I drove my car away I discovered it was fixed. They had neglected to switch off and on again to complete the repair procedure. Standard requirement when software fixes have been carried out however they forgot to do it. There are lots of posts on here detailing how to get rid of warning lights after battery replacement. Hopefully they may cure your problem.

They sound like the faults normally associated with a battery swap. I believe first thing to do is turn steering to full lock in both directions and then take a drive. That will often reset the warning lights. I'd like to think that Skoda would know that though.

Was the new battery ever coded-in to the car? Some say it's necessary, some say not but it would be something to cross off the list of possible causes.

That is a fault code for the EGR system.

Unless there is a table online somewhere that details this particular requirement the best you will get here will be anecdotal reports from other forum members ( like me ). My pick would be Michelin CC2 but that's because I have them on my car. I've found them to be excellent as far as noise reduction in the cabin is concerned but have no opinion on summer/winter characteristics as I drive well within the car/tyre limits at all times. One option I would avoid though would be Dunlop SportMaxx as they're noticeably noisier than the CC2s, but these are not on your shortlist I would suggest that most, if not all, of the branded tyres would give good service with the chevron tread pattern being common to most all of them as Ooots earlier link.

When braking or all the time?

I didn't think that ECU testing did 'Software Fixes As OccyVRS suggested, TVS Engineering would be my recommendation. There are a good few franchises dotted around the UK and my experience of them is very good mainly because they take the time to explain EVERYTHING and not fob you off with vague statements and zero evidence to back it up. '. I would say they want to order a new TCU board which may or may not turn up correctly programmed for your vehicle. (All this programming caper is well beyond my pay grade). If the board is Kaput, then to my mind the Mechatronic IS faulty as it's integral to the unit and its operation. If it were only a simple software problem I would have thought a Skoda dealer could update it for less than £500. Like I said, ECU Testing never give you the full story, I suspect because they don't want you to take it away & fix it yourself.

Would be good to know if fitting the new sensor works. Doesn't sound too difficult to replace.

Not sure what you're hoping to achieve here, ie running without the correct oil levels, or how that will cure a software issue. There is a set procedure and temperature requirement when filling the transmission.

Mine has similar trait. In the winter I need to set cabin temp to 23-24deg to achieve maybe 20deg in the car. To much agg to find the root cause so I just live with it.

Who knew checking oil level could be so complicated. I always check mine when cold or tepid and aim for top end of area B on the stick. Never failed me yet. Luckily my 1.6tdi uses next to nothing between 12k mile oil changes, maybe half a litre or just a touch more.