Gammyleg

Coasting is great. I use it all the time. On long motorway hills it coasts for until I blip the throttle or brake pedal, whereas on a shorter, shallower one in town it seems to know when to switch off and drop down the gears to slow up.

If it drives OK and there are no fault codes it's difficult to diagnose the problem. A failing battery can often throw up some strange warnings/symptoms so it maybe worth checking the Cold Cranking Amps to see if the issue lies there. The DQ200 doesn't have a particularly good reputation for reliability and is known as the weakest transmission in the range.

A real stunner.

Always the case.😄

Let's hope you get a good price for your Superb. If it was in the UK and the steering wheel was on the internationally recognised correct side of the car🤭, I'd definitely be interested.

Has the coolant level in the expansion tank dropped since the water pump was fitted? If so it could indicate that the system is still burping itself of trapped air. There is a procedure to follow using VCDS or similar to ensure no airlocks when refilling the system after draining. It opens & closes different valves at different times AFAIK. When my 1.6tdi has it's first pump change the indy garage didn't complete this task fully and I had to keep topping up the coolant for a couple of weeks (~1000 miles ) before it settled down. I didn't get any overheating warning signs though, just low coolant light on the dash.

.....or rear tyres cupping on inside track. Easy to check by running your hand round and feeling for undulations.

A main dealer stamped history is always good for resale value, whether it's deserved or not.

Michelin Cross Climate 2 are excellent for reduced road noise..... on mine at least. Double check which oil he will use and if it's the correct spec. and quality brand, go with the dealer. Skoda will use similar and charge twice as much.

Delivered this morning @ 08:54. Money well spent. Royal Mail btw.

Should anyone ever have the need to courier their DQ200 mechatronic unit for repair, I can confirm it's drained weight is a fraction over 10kg. Packaging would obviously increase the total. I've just sent mine off to ECU Testing at a cost of £32 ( declared <15kg ) which was for guaranteed 1pm next day + max insurance. Non-guaranteed delivery and lower insurance value price starts about £14.00

Good to know there are still some honest garages around.

The links you have posted are for the Superb. The Octavia ones look to be different.

I don't think there is a filter associated with the gearbox, only the Mechatronic unit has a filter which is internal and would require dismantling and reassembly to replace. Was this done as well?

I fixed mine last week. The carrier box that the switch assembly sits in is very weak where the assembly tabs lock into it. There is barely a mm of plastic holding the tabs in place which seems to break easily when pressing the switch down. An easy fix with a dab of superglue and now all working perfectly. The hardest part is extracting the unit from the door shut with the spudgers.

Yes, it is a bit of a heavy lump for a 1.6 but performance was not high on my list of requirements when I bought it. Economy, cheap insurance and road tax were key drivers plus reliability. For the most part all of those have been met. Just a shame my DSG has proved to be a disappointment. ...and for the most part I do drive very sedately. 😀

The original battery could well have been fine only the system had been set to 13a instead of 130a by the previous owner.

I found this description on the web. Just wondering if there is also a Transmission Fluid Pump 'B' ? P2797 Code Definition P2797 Electric/Auxiliary Transmission Fluid Pump 'A' Performance/Stuck Off What Does the Engine Code P2797 Mean?Character "P" in the first position of Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) represents the powertrain system (engine and transmission), "2" in the second position means that this is a ISO/SAE controlled OBD-II (OBD2) DTC. "7" in the third character position in a DTC indicates that the transmission is experiencing a malfunction. The last two characters "97" is DTC number. OBD2 Diagnostic Trouble Code P2797 means that Electric/Auxiliary Transmission Fluid Pump 'A' Performance/Stuck Off has been detected.

Evening all, I spotted the dreaded "Error Gearbox" message on the maxidot this morning and it popped up again this evening. Only lasted about 2 seconds and then it was gone. I did a VCDS scan when I got home and it showed the following: Address 02: Auto Trans (J743) Labels: 0CW-927-769.clb Part No SW: 0CW 300 042 F HW: 0AM 927 769 E Component: GSG DQ200G2_M H05 1621 Revision: 00005006 Serial number: CU501605075559 CVN: B5A4E042 Coding: 0014 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMDQ200021 001001 ROD: EV_TCMDQ200021.rod VCID: 392F255109DA299250D-806C 1 Fault Found: 38526 - Control Circuit for Auxiliary Transmission Fluid Pump P2797 00 [00101100] - Implausible Signal Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 4 Mileage: 317501 km Date: 2025.03.14 Time: 07:57:29 Engine RPM: 2569.75 /min Engine torque: -72 Nm Vehicle speed: 86 km/h Control Module temperature: 48 °C CURRENT pressure: -6.0 bar Driving position: Malfunction Accelerator pedal position: 0.0 % DTC memory status: 39424 I did a bit of googling and it seems to point toward one or more of the Mechatronic solenoids could be sticking or is becoming briefly inoperative. Has anyone ever had this code pop up and if so, what was the diagnosis/fix? I have long suspected one or more of the solenoids may be defective which is why the gear changes are so lazy and not as "snappy" as I'd like them to be.

Thanks for all the replies. It will be a while before my current tyres are due a change but was just wondering what options I might have when the time comes. I think a move up to a 65 is at bit OTT but I'd consider maybe a 60. Comfort & quietness are my primary requirements, performance is secondary and the Cross Climates deliver on all fronts in my opinion. That would be no bad thing with a DSG 7. 1st gear is a joke unless crawling in traffic.

Just thinking about what effect changing from my current 215/55/17 Crossclimate 2's to 215/65/17s might have to the driving characteristics of my car. My calculations are that the overall diameter will increase from 26.3" to 28" and for a mile travelled the revolutions required would decrease from 767 to 721. A reduction/saving of ~6%. Would there be a noticeable difference in stability when cornering and would there be a noticeable softening of the ride? Lastly, is it legal to do this as the 215/65/17 is not one of the standard size fitments?

Well, an update on the Redex after three tankfuls and 1830 miles. I wasn't expecting much if anything TBH, and I appreciate there could be other factors at play here, but for the most part my daily commutes have been the same both pre & post addition with weather conditions being generally comparable. I've used figures from 4no fill-ups pre, and 3no fill-ups post The results. Miles covered pre-addition 2132 average MPG = 55.8 Miles covered post-addition 1830 average MPG = 58.0 So an improvement of 3.9%. I can't comment on performance improvements as I don't drive like a mad thing and let's face it a 1.6tdi is never going to set any records in that respect.

Are DRLs required by law?

I would think the warranty would say this is a wear & tear item. It maybe that the caliper is sticking however to prove this there would need to be an investigation which would probably cost you if found not to be. My rear discs were far worse than yours and mentioned as an advisory on 2 MOT tests but the brake performance was good enough to pass the test on both occasions. I did finally change them along with the pads and they have since been fine.

Same with the stop/start. Only lights up when you switch it off.