Gammyleg

£1400 for both fitted seems reasonable I guess. Any idea what, in that figure, the mechanic is charging/allowing for labour? I reckon about 9-10hrs with all the right kit.

Without knowing the full scope of works it's difficult to say. If the price includes a new clutch pack then I'd say yes. If you could post a breakdown of what is included in the £1400 price that would be useful.

...Just rooted out the invoice for mine which was done 18months ago. Clutch Pack - £391 Flywheel - £323 Cambelt Kit- £99 Water Pump - £85 Crank Seal - £104 Transmission & Mech Oil - £58 Minor Engine Service. Labour. 12.5hrs - £625 Miscellaneous - £ xxx Total Incl VAT - £2440.24

The mechatronic replacement would not have needed the transmission to be removed and mechanically would be a relatively easy job. Assuming £1800 for the new mech + fitting/oils ( say 4hrs out & in ) would be no more than £2000. For £3000 I'd like to think the clutches were done at the same time. £400 for the clutch pack + £600 labour. Shame the flywheel wasn't done at the same time. The money is in the labour not the parts.

You did well not to use ECUTESTING. Consider it a bullet dodged. The replacement option is far better IMO.

....and full DSG service history.

Make sure the DSG is 100%. Anything less, walk away and don't look back. For the most part It's a VW Passat with a different badge.

Regens sometimes begin just before the end of your journey and will continue after you turn off the engine. They can last 10 - 15 mins depending on when, in the cycle, the regen was interrupted. Unfortunately the ECU isn't smart enough to 2nd guess the distance you've got left to drive when it decides to start a regen.

My experience of ECU Testing and their refusal to discuss the diagnosis beyond the cost is that you will never know.

ECU Testing will carry out a diagnosis but will refuse to tell you their findings. They will also refuse to tell you which parts, if any, were inspected/checked or which were replaced. These are all 'Trade Secrets' apparently. Presumably they only charged you a diagnostic fee as they have not been able to repair the unit?

My experience with them was bad also. A bit shabby all round. I would get them to send the unit back to you and get a second opinion.

Who are 'they' if you don't mind me asking?

VCDS is good if your car has CAN protocol, lots of info and tutorials on Ross-Tech website to guide you through. If yours is later UDS protocol ( like my 2016 Superb ) there is precious little info out there which makes it more difficult to know what settings to search for.

Avoid these people like the plague.

Playing cards on the spokes of the wheels. Sounded great on my pushbike when I was 7.

A job for a competent fitter. Their diagnostic skills, on the other hand & in my experience, are not so good.

They could well, but they are branded differently. The Ford version is known as the Powershift and is a 6 speed dry clutch I believe. Ford may have an inspection schedule for the oil and could have incorporated a dipstick in their version to allow for this. Perhaps this is what the oil company were referring to. Regardless I would recommend oil changes more frequently than my 180k. DSG oil change frequencies have been done-to-death on this forum and Ootohere's table has been displayed more times than I've won the lottery.

I've no idea how you can check DQ200 fluid levels as there is no dipstick for either transmission or the mechatronic. The only way would be to drain them, after which you might as well replace with fresh oil. Skoda won't be interested in doing anything under a service agreement because it isn't included. A good Indy would be best as long as they know what they're doing. FYI my mech oil was brown sludge when it got changed at 180k miles so i'd certainly recommend getting it done at reasonable intervals, say every 40 to 60k.

Wood, good. Cloth, not so. Your username made me write that.😉

From memory, the red part is a latch. You need to prise it up and the connector can then be easily removed. In my case the carrier casing that holds the fitted switch assembly in place had snapped near some of the locating lugs which meant that whenever the drivers side switch was pressed it failed to fully connect. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't I superglued the casing back together & it now works perfectly.

Delivery miles!!😄

Is it purely a max speed restriction or is it a max rpm restriction? I had the latter on my previous car, intermittent of course☹️. It was never resolved in my 5 years of ownership.

You haven't set the max speed option on the cruise control stick by accident?

Is your a/c set on eco?

It's a shame that it can't monitor and report on the car battery in the same way. We just have to monitor all the possible related errors to try and work it out.