DieselMonte

Well that didn't last long Hopped in it today, got to the bottom of my hill and it ran like absolute ****. Bad enough that I couldn't take it to work as planned. Dropped the fuel filter on advise from someone and... Already clogged. Thankfully I have a spare on hand and it is an easy job. This is what came out of the filter. Plenty of fresh fuel in it. May need to drop the tank sooner rather than later. Seems otherwise fine happily. My guess is that a chunk of gunk got into it this morning and caused it to run like ****. It ran beautiful just last night.

Had the carb off this evening for hopefully the final time. Found the High idle problem, one of the springs that holds it closed wasn't seated right. Also checked the idle screw and set it to what was recommended on old forum posts. 5 and 5/8 turns from lightly seated. Had it out driving and it's finally running decent. NCT next Saturday. Since the Monte is temporarily out of action and I couldn't get the vrs sorted it seems like I'll be relying on this to get into work and back this week.

It's a good start Murdock, If a loom isn't silly money I may get one and see if that works.

Hi all, After 40k miles of driving my cars finally broke down. I wasn't the one driving it at the time unfortunately. Did pull codes and this is all that came up. It also keeps blowing the fuse for the injectors. Thought the wiring for my spots would be to blame, causing a short but so far as I can see the wiring for them is OK. I'm still thinking wiring short though. Would anyone have any advice on what to do next. Definitely something I'll have to have a garage sort but hoping I can atleast narrow down before I send it off. Thanks.

Not a good few days. Had this in for NCT Saturday (today). Been busting myself the last few weeks getting this ready for test. Bought new undertrays, fixed a sticky rear caliper Took my rarb and brace off, as they would have made me get an engineers cert if I kept them on. 2 more pilot sports. And then on Thursday... It broke. I wasn't the one driving it. Pulled codes and it's got a lot of them And it keeps blowing the fuse for the injectors. Did eventually get back to the farm so it's safe atleast. Over 40k miles of abuse so probably shouldn't be too upset. Did worry it was the wiring to my spots or something else that had shorted but so far as I can tell my wirings fine. Think it's electrical more than the injectors themselves being bad. Don't doubt it's something I've caused though. I think I was asking for this busting myself to get this and the justy ready for nct. Logbooks come through for the vrs finally so gonna try get it sorted so I can use it for the week until the justy gets nct'd.

Get a trim tool (or flat screwdriver if you're brave) and slip it between the centre console and gaiter. Should prise up. Be careful if you're rough you might break it.

If its the same as my one then you just twist that little locking mechanism and it all comes off.

I think you'd be surprised at how rough a lot of them have gotten.

Not sure on it Jr Only screws on it that I can see are the idle mix and throttle screw. Didn't remove them from their spindles. The small butterfly is controlled by the cable and the big one opens on vacuum over a certain rpm. (Sounds like poor man's vTec when it kick in)

Would high revs indicate its too rich then? On the one hand I'm happy it's getting there. On the other it's quite stressful trying to get 2 cars through test one after the other.

Got that part figured out, dodgy vacuum line pulling open the big butterfly. Thanks for the replies though. Had it running since and its better in some aspects but worse in others. Think the idle mix screw is off now. Idling very high no matter what you do to the throttle screw. Even with the throttle cable off. Throttle cable itself is being very awkward too, can't get it tight enough now. Test is just over 2 weeks away and if that's not bad enough, I'm after getting a message saying the test for the white car is exactly the week before the justy.

Carburetor has been rebuilt and it is back together but I've messed something up bad. Went to start it and it immediately tried to overrev. Wasn't sure what was going on so on advice of friends I took the top apart to check the float and all was moving free and set right, so far as I can tell its all OK. First video is what happens if you start it without Choke. Second video is what happens when you start it with choke. (Numbers are out of order, oops.) Took the carburettor off and checked the bottom gaskets incase there was a leak there, all seems well there too. I CAN get it to run and idle by pulling the vacuum for the second barrel. The second (big) barrel on this is operated on vacuum. Throttle cables been disconnected the whole time so the small barrel shouldn't be moving. This video shows it running with the second carb disconnected. I moved the second barrel by hand to see how it'd react. I think it's important to not that I can choke it out by covering the intake with my hands, makes me think there are no leaks where air is getting in. Last video I recorded in the middle of things, switched the ignition on and off to see if it would run for any length like that. Again, throttle off, no small child in the cabin pressing the throttle etc. Safe to say I'm pretty stumped at the minute. Definitely getting the impression it's something very simple and very stupid I've caused without realising.

Carb Rebuild kit came in today so started on that. Carb came off fairly easy. Fuel bowls got some scuzz down it. All seemed pretty clean but the gaskets are dire. All apart tonight, soaking bits overnight to soften the muck. Might get it in one piece tomorrow evening.

Yes and yes.

According to the sticker on the bonnet, it's done cold. Even gives the proper clearances. Set timing today. Helped a lot. Carb Rebuild kit should be here tomorrow or Friday.

New Coil arrived. Opted for a Lucas "Sport" coil. Swapped all over and threw the new one in and... It Fired right up. Timing is almost definitely off and there's quite a delay on the throttle, but just happy it's running again. Done just about everything I can now to give the best spark possible. Need to change the timing belt and set valve lash not sure which I should do first though. Might be worth getting this out to the farm and doing the rest of the work there. Is well on the way to being roadworthy. Been a nightmare getting a logbook for it but I'm not letting that stop me.

Base of the drivers on of mine was worn so I swapped em side to side. I know there are places that will "rebuild" the foam in car seats, know someone who had it done on a landcruiser, roughly 60 euro. The montes seat is pretty worn down on the bolster so I'll probably have it done.

Good choice on the seats Ryan, best seat put in any fabia.

This justy is at my house not at the farm hence why I used a timing light, all I had at hand. I hadn't touched the coil before it died. I did change the plugs and clean up the contacts on the cap and rotor before however. Was driving it like that for a bit.

Still no spark, fairly sure it's the coil gone bad since I can see its getting power, but there's nothing going out of it. Probably wouldn't be terribly hard especially given this is a fwd model, no 4wd gubbins in the way. Don't want to drop the tank especially now its got fuel in it. Fuel filter is doing its job seemingly. May install a second filter in the bay to see what **** it collects. Fair point They are literally just wedged in place for the purposes of taking a photo. Not got Around to wiring them in yet.

Looked through the manual again to check. Doesn't say anything about dwell.

Manual states they're to be gapped between 0.45mm and 0.55mm. Split down the middle at 0.50mm

Ha! They're Ring lamps I got of marketplace for 20 euro. Funny the ring spotlamps I put on the Monte recently came with covers, but these didn't.

What Knob said that? Most of that is probably coming from it being run with low fuel (and old fuel) for a bit. Should be about 20l of fresh fuel in it now. Have been chucking Redex down it too to try clear things out. Points are connected as the old ones were, did take photos to help remember what wire goes where. That filter is literally weeks old but considering how cheap they are I think I'll just keep changing them until that ****e is cleared out of the tank. One more thing, forgot to include pictures of the new lights in a previous post. Initial plan was to hide them behind the covers when I didn't need them, but these are far too big for that. My bad for taking a chance on ones on marketplace. Probably still going to use them however. I think they do look correct on this sort of car. I am a sucker for yellow lamps on any car however. Anyone have any opinions on these lights?

Update time: Had this thing idling away in the garage and it just died on me and wouldn't restart. No spark. Day after that I got my big load of parts so saw to putting them on. New HT Leads Points Did take the distributor off to fit them because the screws holding the Points in were ready to strip. Marked it so timing should be relatively close to before. Checked the fuel filter I put in a few weeks ago, definitely doing its job, have yet another one I'll replace it with soon. Still no spark, however I have it narrowed down to the coil. Traced the positive wire to the coil and put the timing light to it. Lead up to that white box. Just to be sure I did the same to the wire coming from the other side of the box that goes onto the positive of the coil. So It's getting power to the coil, but no power comes from the big lead that goes to the distributor. Have a coil ordered, should be here Tuesday. Also still to come are: -New Cap -Rotor -Carb Rebuild kit Other things I got in that care package that I haven't mentioned are: -Timing belt -Accessory Belt -Valve Cover Gasket -Spare Plugs. One more thing to mention. Said before the backbox was solid but just the tailpipe looked crumbly I was very much wrong there. It's leaking from the gasket and on the weld where the exhaust goes into the backbox. No wonder it sounded so angry. To fit the backbox I got I'll need to have the mid section redone as it goes from 2" at the manifold down to 1.5" to the rest of the system. My backbox is a 2" one. It's a more or less straight piece of pipe from the manifold to the backbox so shouldn't be *too* expensive. Should sound quite nice and maybe even give a bit more pep when it's done.