UndertheRadar

Anyone fitted anything from MTC? Im enquiring out of interest to see how the quality stacks up against the likes of racingline or revo supplied products etc. They have hoses, elbows and muffler deletes to name a few items, which in some cases are around 50% cheaper and yet seem similar in construction.

Keep your old working bulbs in a box in the boot just in case. The trade off with all the higher powered halogens is the working time is considerably shortened.

I’m hoping they will help. I just find the standard setup is too loose and uncontrolled, causing it to become very crashy on certain types of road. Sport tightens it up but just makes the crashes even worse. The rear roll bar will then tighten up the body roll/twist on similar B roads. I won’t know until I get them and fit them whether I need springs as well, but don’t want to change the ride height, so fitting OEM ones for now to see how it goes.

Just leave it and read through the forum. I very rarely sign in and generally just use it to read through others opinions on new products I haven’t used yet. interesting one unfolding at the minute on how shockingly poor the new Zymol graphene spray is, compared to the claims being made by the manufacturer.

Aye, I think I’d give those a miss 😂. try 3D mats, diamond car mats or weather tech as well as genuine mat sets.

Yes it’s handy to have. My Superb has the function as well. Most of the Rangey’s should also have a button in the boot to drop the rear bags so it lowers the suspension as well to aid loading.

If you mean the boot partially opens and then stops have it checked as the motors can give bother and limit out during use. Although some models have variable boot opening incase your only 2 foot six and can’t reach it when fully open, so could be that if it’s doing it all the time.

I would prefer a genuine alloy wheel to most cheap chinese copies to avoid cracking issues.

Yes. I’ve several other cars (not a bum). But, I’d sell the one you have and just buy your golf R as an estate or a Superb estate etc. My reason being, that in my case, I just can’t be bothered swooping over, and end up just driving one of them all the time and leaving the others. Then you end up fixing the others as they just sit not being used and so on. It seems like a good idea at the time, but depends also on you and whether you’d end up doing the same or not. My wife also has an ST estate which is the only thing she’d have after her last Ford gave her no bother for 8 yrs, right up to we traded it in. I did try to put her into a Leon cupra 300 estate which I really liked, and may be a good alternative for you if looking at an R estate.

Is it the correct battery for the car that’s been fitted.

I bought genuine Skoda rims from Caffyns Skoda in Kent. They have an online shop. Think i paid £190 a wheel and £35 to post the 4 of them to me.

Maybe it went to junk? I very rarely sign in anyway. I just lurk and look at the pictures. 😄

Is there any chance on the plus model it’s already standard and therefore you can’t add an option that the car already has?

There’s product of some description on your glass. Clean it as instructed and then add something like Soft 99 Glaco to seal the screen if your going to continue using the same wash place.

It seems ok but I don’t know them. Check on the detailing world forum and see who’s near you that others recommend, might be a good start. plenty of brilliant information there as well. the Nanolex wax they’re using is just that. A wax, which could last anything from 3-12 months depending on your level of maintenance during washing. So it’s fine, but gives you a window in which you need to be able to protect the car yourself before it’s removed completely and the paint goes flat. you could use something like Britemax spray and shine. It’s really simple to use and won’t give any hassle applying or removing from paintwork. It will then protect the wax underneath for longer if you use it every few weeks. Or Turtle wax seal and shine is a great and reasonably priced newer product that can go on over the wax, but will last longer once applied. once you get the hang of it you can use one of the SI02 based spray products that will last longer again, but are harder to apply as they can leave product on the panel that’s harder to remove and can mark paint doing so. Then when you really get into it and start buying polishers and pads and dryers etc, everyone will think that’s what your doing, when really your just hiding in the garage.

Aye, only I’m not afraid of what my car looks like underneath it. 😂

Don’t take this the wrong way, but the equipment the detailer will use is about £1000, and they can prep the car and seal it without adding marring or streaking or leaving high spots in the paint. For £200 it’s probably a single stage polish and a wax. A properly prepared and applied ceramic coating will set you back £500-£600. For now, and until you know how to clay and correct and prep paint I’d get them to do the £200 clean. That way you can start off by just learning to maintain paintwork at that level using easier products. 2 bucket wash proper wash mitt (cleaned after every wash) good PH neutral shampoo good wheels brushes EZ Detail maybe? good gsm count drying towel(washed with mitt) something like rag company polishing cloths and some seal and shine would do well for ages. Then work your way up. watch some of the rupes videos on you tube. They’re very informative.

Recently became fed up with the rattles in the dash, and in the interests of avoiding stinky people at the minute, I’ve just gone ahead and fixed them myself. So for anyone that’s suffering the same issue hopefully this helps. (My IT skills won’t) I’ll add the pics to show the tools used, which can all be bought on the bay of evil if required. I removed the top speaker cover with the trim tools and padded. Remove the trim gently from the front first as the rear needs to be pulled away from the screen and not pulled upwards. Replace in opposite order. centre console rattle turned out to be the Antenna, which had come loose and was rattling about behind the touch screen. To fix this you first insert the radio keys into the 4 slots and lift unit away towards the interior. Remove the two leads on the rear and set head unit somewhere safe. Then remove the fast connector from the connectivity unit and lift the two tabs on either side to remove it completely from the dash. this will give you access to the antenna. I used a very strong double sided 3M tape to fix it in a location avoiding further rattles. refit the connectivity unit and speed connector (harness). The unit just slides into place and clicks in tight. On the frame for the screen mount, I’ve padded several touch points just to be sure, and again on the top edge of the screen itself, as this touches the dash trim strip slightly and can vibrate. Replace the two fittings into the rear of the screen and refit into its location in the dash. Listen to make sure each corner clicks home and locks in. Just be careful applying to much pressure to each corner just incase. I’d hate to see a cracked screen. Think that makes sense. Hopefully the photos will help. Think I’ve to upload separately to avoid hitting limit. I hate this interweb nonsense.

Sorry looked at wrong trim. That’s on with speed clips. Pull it away from the sill one section at a time.

They’re a damn fine place to spend time. After a few weeks it won’t feel big at all. The shape of them makes them extremely easy to accurately manoeuvre I find. As above, it’ll hold more than £80. I used to be able to get £126 in my old Merc and according to them it only had a 90L tank. I’ve a few fuel receipts that disagree.

Removed the touch screen and top speaker cover on the dash and padded both to stop rattles. If they’re quiet the next time I go out, I’ll remove them again and post pics of where I padded for anyone else who’s interested.

So what do you think of the big yoke, now you’ve had it for a few days?

Yes. I see them now. I’d be very surprised if that was anything to do with the paint process. I find the paint on my superb is very easily marked. My front bumper would probably mark if you sneezed on it to heavily. when they sand those marks out and correct the entire car, if you apply a good ceramic coating properly, the coating will take the wash marks and protect the top coat underneath. You can still cut some of the marks from the coating with a very light DA. I would use something like my Rupes white finishing pad and either Uno Protect or Keramik gloss (fine) at a low speed. Then depending on how long you keep the car, after a few years you can cut it back completely and replace the ceramic coating all together.