seve88

you'll regret it, they dont last. most cv boots will eventually tear at some point, but i find the vw ones last the longest. be interesting to know if anyone has used a non vw cv boot that they'd recommend, and how long did it last ?

best to get the cv boot kits from the main dealer, cost around £25 each. takes an hour or so to do per side, driveshaft needs to come off to do it right though. dirty filthy job

you can get ball joints for £10, but you get what you pay for. a vw ball joint costs around £30, better to spend the extra cash and do the job right.

the mk3 is almost 2 years old now [not vrs ], so secondhand cars will start to appear and prices will come down to around the same prices that dealers are asking for there overpriced mk2's. this in turn will mean that mk2 prices will fall, as the mk3 will always be more costly. if your gonna buy a mk2, hold off if you can, otherwise you'll end up paying over the odds. dealers are chancing there luck at the moment with mk2 prices imo

when was the fuel filter last changed ?, and do you know if they really did change it ? on the pd diesel engines it should be changed at 60,000 miles, not sure if the common rail engine is the same interval. imo though, it's better changed at 30,000 miles. if it was my car, i'd be looking at the fuel filter, probably changing it and putting some fuel system cleaner in at the same time. then see how it goes before doing anything else.

price is good though, i have'nt worked out the % discount there quoting, but it looks like a good saving. the delivery times are gonna come down at some point as well.

anyone dealt with these people http://www.buyanewcaronline.co.uk/skoda/octavia/octavia-diesel-hatchback/2.0-tdi-cr-vrs-5dr-dsg/ quoting 2-12 weeks delivery as well lol

these are comptable with most roofboxes, and most cars as well, no roof rails required either. you dont even need any tools to fit them, but would you trust them. you wanna be the first to try them out and report back if they do the job hahaha http://vimeo.com/18965348

Haynes manual available here & elsewhere https://wordery.com/skoda-octavia-diesel-service-and-repair-manual-chris-randall-9780857335494?currency=GBP&gtrck=SVc5clViaHhNWjZUdUtKMFlQclBMWlloRVRML1NVelByeHYyREwweFBhUT0&gclid=CMiPnbyapL4CFaXHtAod-TYAHg

alot of dealers are as bent as a nine bob note though, would'nt put it past them to replace that well worn swan neck with a brand spanker or even send the old one to the paint shop for a re-paint.some would do anything for a sale sad

wurth wheel rim silver should be a good colour match for skoda / vw.

here's a tip if you only have one key and cant afford to pay for another one, open up the key fob and take the transponder chip out, then take the trim off around the steering lock, tape the transponder chip near to the lock, now you can use any £5 key cut at asda etc problem is though you've just done away with your immobiliser, but might save you £200 come trade in time. btw, timpsons only good for healing shoes, and it's debatable whether they can even do that, hahaha

i know where your coming from here. this is what i done, buy 2 hockey pucks, cut a slot out of the first one, say 10mm deep, then cut the other one in half next trim a bit of off the cut edge of both halves then araldite both halves onto the slotted puck you've now got the required depth.

you can programme the central locking part of the key with vcds, which you could pick up second hand, but you'll need to go to main steeler for the top part of the key ie the blade and the transponder . some independent key places maybe able to cut you a key and programme it, but they would need to have the expensive equipment that skoda/ vw have and not many have this. i've been there and done it, expensive business it is too

it's easy enough to change standard silver alloys to black, especially if the wheel are in good condition. the wheels have already been powder coated, so just sand down with some fine wet & dry then a good clean with sugar soap, mask up and spray with black primer, then the black gloss, and if you want them glossier, use a lacquer. after 2 weeks or so you can use some g3 rubbing compound to smooth the paint down and give a finish like the pro's get. it helps if you have a second set of wheels, like winter steelies etc, if not you really have to use your spare wheel and do one wheel at a time. it's all a bit time consuming obviously, but it'll save you a few bob

once you fit the new filter into the housing / canister, make sure you fill the canister up with diesel, it avoids any air lock problems

they'll tell you it was an ex skoda uk managers car but i'll bet it was a hire car

i'll bet todays deal can be had tomorrow

next year get your mot from the local council, most councils do mot for the public. the good thing about going to them is that they dont do repairs so there is no incentive to fail you just to line there own pockets just had mine done £40, failed me on a burst rubber boot on the ball joint, fixed it myself and free retest within 10 days. at least i know that the burst rubber boot was genuinely burst.

yea you've gotta watch the compatability. dot 3 and dot 4 are compatable. dot 5 is not compatable [ unless you've got dot 5 already in there ] unlikely though

skoda brake fluid is too expensive, i use pagid dot4 from eurocarparts £4.99 for 1 litre. if your doing the job yourself, an eezibleed kit will make it a lot easier http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Lz8t6ZkVSQM&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DLz8t6ZkVSQM

salesmen never lie, there all decent and honourable people haha always do your own homework first.

this is an easy diy job. you can do it with 5 litres of oil plus a filter, should cost you around £80 for the parts. the stealer will charge you for 6 litres of oil. there's no need for vag-com either. some good info about it here http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/dsg-diy-fluid-change-service.htm

The horn definetly goes via the steering control module, so if you've checked everything else, i'd say the module is the problem. I've a vw caddy that I use for work, last year I decided to fit cruise control to the van, after doing a bit of research, I found out I had to change the steering control module from a lowline module to a midline module, plus change the indicator stalk. so I got a used steering control module from ebay and a new stalk from vw, fitted everything, got the cruise working but the horn wouldn't work. After pi$$ing about & wondering what the problem was, I decided to get another control module, and this got the horn / cruise working. you'll need vag-com [vcds] to code your new module, unless your lucky enough to get one with the exact same coding as your existing. here's a link about steering control modules http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Steering_Wheel_Control_Module_Versions

the horn works through the steering control module, which is fitted under the steering column. it's basically a printed circuit board with part of the board for the horn. you can get used steering control modules on ebay.