fr1nklyn

The author wrote that he tried to drain the coolant in the conventional way by removing the bottom hose, but only 2.5 liters were out. I guess that he hadn't waited his car to reach operating temp when he did that, and thermostats were not opened. Also I think in this method you don't add so much airlocks in the system like when you remove the bottom radiator hose.

Hey guys, I've seen several threads in the Russian forum drive2.ru where coolant is changed in very easy way. And was wondering what do you think about it? Do you think the same one can also be used in TDIs? (due to lower temps in their country, TDIs aren't driven much, so only TSI and MPI tutorials were shared..). Basically the steps are: 1/ Warm the car up to operating temp, so the thermostats are opened 2/ Warm new coolant to 60-70 degress, or boil distilled water and mix with coolant concentrate 3/ Turn the engine off 4/ Carefully and slowly remove the coolant tank cap 5/ Carefully and with gloves, disconnect the return pipe of the coolant tank and connect it to a 2m tube, to transfer the coolant into an empty bottle 6/ Start the engine 7/ Fill in the coolant tank with the new coolant mix periodically, until 10-12 liters are drained from the system(mine 184TDI with DSG has 12 liters ) Here is the original topic on Octy 1.8 TSI MK2, but I've seen the same on MK3: https://www.drive2.ru/l/537502032748086791/ I want to change my coolant, because my car is 5 years and 125k km old, and I have no silica bag in the coolant tank from half a year. And I don't plan to change water pump and cam belt until 8th year or 210k km as my dealer suggested.

I got 312mm front and 272 on the rears. Ok, it's TRW system, but that doesn't mean that I have to use TRW, right? I meant, I can use ATE rotors and pads on the TRW brake system with no issues. They should work per standard.

I am interested in ATE Ceramic pads and ATE vented rotors as a replacement of the stock ones on 125k km. The stock one just don’t stop that good anymore. I greased the brake pins and dealer changed the brake fluid. There is still “meat” in both in my current rotors and pads, but I still have to press the pedal harder than before in order to stop. I am looking for aftermarket alternative and am interested in ATE products.

I don’t think you will have issues with this tank having new silica bag in the next 3-4 years. If you plan to keep the car after that, you will need to change the tank again.

No, the new tank which you have is actually an old model and has a silica bag in it, sorry. The new ones without silica bag has no “Mit Silikat” stamp on them. There are like 5-6-7 models of the coolant tank where the latest one(s?) have no stamp and therefore bag in them. Old forum members usually recommend changing the coolant every 5 years if the silica bag is removed from a “Mit Silikat” tank.

A bit of an off topic, bit usually the bigger engines have lower idle speed. I remember a friend’s BMW with V8 running at 400-500 rpm. That was 4.4 or 5.0, not sure. Best man’s straight-six 3.0d running at 500-600. And most of the cars I had with 4 cylinders were having idle speed at around 750-850.

When I asked my local dealer should I change my cambelt and waterpump due to the mileage and age of my car, and also my concerns that the pump will soon fail somewhere on the road, they simply told me that the issue hasn’t been fixed yet, regarding the new versions of the pump. So they advised me not to hurry and wait till 8th year or 210k kms and then to change cambelt, pump as well as the v-belt and its tensioner. They could tell me that I have to change it and get the money of course, but they didn’t most likely because they know that this won’t solve my concerns. The truth is, the new pumps still fail, leak and get stuck.

My dealer told me that CR2032 presses the chip inside the key too much and causes issues on some users, that’s why I returned back the OEM size CR2025. I have no Kessy, so it should last 2-3 years at least. My original battery lasted 4 years.

When I changed the oil my pump filter wasn’t blocked but there was a lot of gunk inside the pump hosing, so clean that part either. I changed the o-rings and bolts of the pump, but I don’t think these are mandatory - you can change them every next cleaning. After starting the car for 1-2 mins, and then turning it off, I had to add additional 100-150ml of haldex fluid. I used Ravenol AWD oil, but any other specified for the Haldex gen 5 should be good.

Let me provide an update and answers to my questions: 1/ Yes, it was a straight swap with no coding needed or anything else - the 8” display 5E0 919 605 N is plug and play replacement of 5E0 919 605 H. 2/ It didn’t matter when I would install the new display unit, because SmartLink is installed in the head unit. Display unit only represents what headunit “sends” to it.

Actually looking at the angle of the xenon, the right hand traffic setting is the right for me. And also I missed the traffic part of the setting, logically the Left Hand cars drive in Right Hand Traffic :))) I have to change that setting to avoid blinding the cars in front of me.

Hi, I’ve noticed that in car settings my L-hand Octavia has headlights set to R-hand car by default. So I switched the headlights for a L-hand car, but now every time I turn the ignition ‘On’, I got the message that my headlights are adjusted. Looks odd to me - L-hand car to have R-hand headlights by default and even to explicitly trigger a message that headlights are adjusted when driver corrects this in car’s settings. Is this the same on all L-hand Skodas? Thanks, F

A bit off topic, but did you find manual downshifting in M-mode a bit jerky? I mean when you downshift manually, not when the car automatically downshifts when you're in M-mode I started to use the M-mode mainly for upshifting and leave the car to downshift itself when the revs are very low because it's smoother. Maybe the downshifting in M-mode on TDIs is a bit harsh because of the high torque on low revs. However, when I drive on mountain roads with a lot of corners, I usually give up on using the M-mode because of the need to downshift almost before every corner and the feel of that jerking. That's the case where I usually switch to the usually useless S-mode. Actually the S-mode is mainly used by me when I prepare to pass(overtake) someone on a motorway or on roads with a lot of corners, like the mountain ones. I already know that downshifting on TSI engines with DSG is less noticeable

BTW There is something I have to add in the initial post in this thread - the car is not moving when you release the brake pedal(as it usually does) until the throttle pedal is pressed. It happens on the very first driving, just after the DSG adaptation, but makes your blood run cold for few seconds

@varaderoguy Thanks a lot. I've read about this setting in one of your posts for Fabia 1.2 TSI, but I forgot to try it on the Octy. But I'll do it for sure. @Gerrycan The whole idea of "learning to adapt to a driver" is completely wrong. People drive in a different way depending on the situation they are in or road conditions, or even their mood. If we were robots that adaptation idea would fit us perfectly, but I for example, use to drive fast very early in the morning when there are almost no cars on the road, I drive slowly when it's wet or icy, and I like to keep the revs high(our of the turbo lag) when I'm on the highway in order to get that instant throttle response as I want. When DSG adapts to my "driving style" my reactions have to be different in these three situations, e.g. I have to press the gas pedal harder when I want to keep the revs higher. @Ecomatt Unfortunately I don't have the profile switchover button. I know that it does pretty good job, especially when you are in a traffic jam and you want to get away from the "saving fuel" behavior of the transmission and keep the revs a bit higher. I have a friend of mine with MK3 VRS TSI who tested it on a roundabout and the results were pretty good - in sport, car didn't switch to 4th gear when he entered in it with ~60km/h; in eco/normal(don't remember exactly), car switched to 4th gear, keeping the revs really low and saving fuel, which also made the car more unstable.

Hey guys, Just wanted to share some of my positive experience with the 6 speed DSG DQ250. I wasn’t happy with the DSG behavior on my Octy because it was jerky between 2nd and 3rd and vise versa. And also between 1st and 2nd with light throttle. So I decided to check the DSG oil by adding 1liter and also check for leaks from the DSG filter seal due to some oil on the transmission which I’ve noticed while changing the engine oil few months ago. The filter cap seal wasn’t leaking, but I was there already and added a liter oil, so changed seal and the filter as well. After the excess oil was drained when the fluid reached 35 degrees, I decided to do some DSG Adaptation a bit different from the one described in Ross-Tech site. I saw it in YT for Golf 7 R.. 1/ Auto Trans > Basic Settings - Reset All Adaptation Values - Basic settings for transmission - Calibration of Synchro-points - Start double-clutch fast adaptation 2/ Then I drove the car in tiptronic(manual) mode on odd and then even gears by pressing the gear selector twice quickly: 1 - 3 - 5 - 6 - 4 - 2 - 1. Did this few times. 3/ After this procedure, I switched to auto mode(D) and now the transmission is so much better - not jerky at all, upshifting and downshifting much better. Some people report that after some time their gearbox returns back its bad behavior and they have to re-adapt the gearbox. I don’t know how long it will remain like that, but I don’t mind doing the adaptation every 3-4 months - it takes 5 mins..

Sorry can’t tell you exactly as I haven’t don’t it on Octavia but on BMW 3rd series. I think you should remove the bumper. Yes, swap the module or the headlights. Just for the test you won’t drive like that

@sebic98 See the link to the pdf shared in the other topic - Number 4 is the control module. Each headlight has its own one. Try to swap the control module on your headlights and see is the DRL yellow on the other headlight after that. If yes, it’s from the control module and you don’t need to buy a headlight. If the same headlight still has yellow strip, it’s from the headlight itself and you need to replace it. But just in case talk to the seller to return it if it doesn’t work. Don’t buy it unless you’re sure it’s from the headlight, that’s my opinion.

Try to swap them first. In this way you’ll know is it from the control module or the LED strip.

I’ve just found a topic where the author had water leak causing the DRL control unit to fail, check yours maybe as it’s much cheaper solution

The design of the headlights seems to be poor despite the fact how awesome they look.. @varaderoguy is right - you have to replace the whole headlight if the DRL strip has gone. €500 For a headlight is a lot, plus it won’t look that good because one of the headlights will be new and the other one a bit old. You can try to polish it, but I still don’t think they will look in the same way. You can try recoding your car and use different lights for DRLs. I would also try something like these https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4001065992076.html (ignore the DRL strip, it’s not working in your case) Or you can also switch to aftermarket DRLs in the fog lights. There are some alternatives.

It looks like I will change these when I do the front break discs. The OEM one seems to have poor quality, so most likely I’ll be an aftermarket splash shield. Any recommendations for non-OEM brand? Even if the non-OEM don’t last longer, they will certainly cost less. BTW do the rears suffer from the same issue?

Buy petrol for these 10k per year. Especially if you drive mainly in the city. If you rarely drive the car and these 10k are done by long journeys few times a month, pick the diesel.

Sorry for reviving the old thread - did the oul change and filter today, the filter is real pain.. I tried to tie the cables on one side, but couldn’t remove the filter cap. The tried the other side, and finally removed the cap and then the filter. I had to put the filter first and then the cap. I know that they should be attached to each other before putting them on place, but just couldn’t do it…. Not sure how I did it last time. Anyway, just wanted to thanks for the great thread and explanation 😀