fr1nklyn

5Q0 121 407 AA - yes, change the coolant to G12Evo

Continental recommend change interval between 100k-150k km and claim their belts can last up to 10 years. Gates recommend the same mileage interval but time interval is 4-6 years(depends on the model). So one should be on the safe side with 5-6 years and 100-120k km. I think similar intervals for coolant will be reasonable.

She hasn’t since 2024 @TimmyB

I have Car Scanner with BT adapter from Amazon and it has everything needed for servicing the car: electronic brake service mode, oil change interval, haldex pump priming, DSG adaptation and reads all the sensors on the car. For €10-15 for Pro version and €25-30 for a good BT dongle, it’s a great tool. Plus it works on iOS and Android and you don’t have to bring your laptop all the time.

It’s cleaner than mine when I took it from the dealer 🤣

I think somewhere in the Škoda manual, it says that you should always use the spare wheel on the rear for safety reasons. So even if you have a puncture on a front wheel, you should remove a regular rear wheel and put it on the front. Then put the spare wheel on the rear.

If you have VCDS, you can try to adapt the gearbox, following these instructions https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495734-very-smooth-dsg-gears-switching-after-vcds-adaptation/#findComment-5562761

I'm using the same stuff - twice twice an year. I haven't used clay bars so far, but I may consider using it before next waxing I usually do before the summer.

From what I know, EA288 uses a low-pressure EGR system that draws exhaust gases from after the DPF. This means the recirculated gases are cleaner (soot filtered out), which significantly reduces intake and valve carbon deposits compared to the older EA189 and PD engines. And with the twin dosing SCR in the newer generation EA288 Evo engines, the carbon build-up should be reduced even more. PS: I had similar concerns when I was about to purchase my current Scout TDI 147kw with EA288 Evo engine due to the lack of availability of the petrol version for this trim, in the period I did the order.

Changed the oil today - thank God there is T25 torx you can unscrew on EA288 Evo engines, to move the lower water pump away of the oil filter draining path. So much easier and less messy compared to previous EA288. I’ll try to stick with 10k kms or 350 engine hours between oil changes. I’ve put Ravenol 0w30 VSW this time. Last time dealer used Shell 0w30 AV-L. Both are great oils, no complains.

I'm wondering how they're going to do this when the mechatronic itself is in oil? 🤔 It shares the same oil with the DSG clutches. Or am I in mistake and there is a way this to be done?

Ahhh ****, I did this twice in my driving experience - approx 15 years with diesels. They need to completely drain the tank and change the fuel filter. Then to inspect the fuel filter for metal shavings. The main problem with the petrol in the diesel engines is the lack of lubricity in it. In the non-CR diesel engine I would add small amount of 2T ashless oil, but in the modern ones - no. A decent mechanic should check the values of low and high pressure fuel pumps( the one in the tank and in the engine bay). Also listen for whining noises from HPFP. Injector values as well. 3-4 minutes most likely didn’t cause any issues, but triggered errors for sure. So maybe clear them, drive from cold to fully warm engine and see are there new errors. Injector values should be check when cold and once again after the engine reaches operating temperature. Good luck 👍

I personally am from the lucky guys and have to top up only 0,5l per 15k kms as well. 40k kms on the clock now. But I've read for many other guys with the same engine 2.0 TDI 200hp on Passat, Superb and Kodiaq who experience high oil consumption. @Gabbo has started a discussion thread about the same topic in the Superb Mk3 forum https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/524536-tdi-official-oil-consumption-limits/

@Paulws1953 I see there is this garage with good Google reviews around your place https://essextuningltd.co.uk/dpf-cleaning-bury-st-edmunds/ I don't know are they really good, but you can give them a call and ask for diagnostics(not for cleaning directly). They need to reset the DPF values after cleaning if they do the cleaning and then force regen to allow the system adapt to the new pressure sensor values. Some DPFs are totally blocked or damaged, and you cannot clean them, from what I know. In this case you can search for second hand part, e.g. on eBay, but you will need the part number of yours.

Archoil 6400 is pretty good additive for clearing the accumulated soot from the DPF, especially when the regens were interrupted many times and/or the car was driven mainly for short journeys. BUT this is not your case. Most likely, your DPF has accumulated ash not soot because it reached its end of life, looking at the miles you’ve driven the car. Could also be a pressure sensor reporting incorrect values.

If you’re going for a second hand, try to get one from low mileage car and service the diff with good oil.

I personally would change the oil on my DQ381 at 40k and the filter, which is on similar location but pointing forward(horizontally), not up(vertically) like on DQ250.

Don’t worry about the DPF. Most if not all 0w30 oils meeting the 507.00 standard are “low-saps”. 507.00 allows up to 1.5% ash content. If the oil also meets the ACEA C3, it means no more than 0,8% content. Just let the DPF complete the regens, especially when the dash light is on.

The car is coded, otherwise if the AdBlue range is 0 you cannot start it.

Most likely they have updated this then. Apologies for the confusion. I used to drive VW Up! Electric for few months and my wife complained about this several times while driving behind me with the kids. It’s good that these went through regulations and it’s now fixed.

These error codes are in very different modules. Could be an electrical fault and/or car battery dying. Are you still using the factory fitted battery?

That one-pedal driving doesn't trigger the brake lights like when you press the brake pedal to slow down, until the very end when you actually press the break pedal. Just have this in mind.

It's common for the DQ381 on cars before 2020/2021 to have issues with clutch position sensors in the mechatronics. But this is shot in the dark, it requires proper diagnostics by another place as others suggested.

Do you have another Android device to test with by any chance? It could also be from the device which broadcasts the stream instead of the Skoda display representing the image.

That looks soo nice :)