Vahids

It is not as easy as you may think, unfortunately. What is the reason for changing? Maybe it is not worth it if it is only for upgrade.

https://www.torque.com.sg/advice/pedal-vibrate-when-i-hit-the-brakes/

Do you mean feel it under the brake pedal? If yes that's the ABS kicks in during emergency brake.

@R_U_AFA and @J.R. thanks for your help. I will do as recommended, but I think the 103 degree thermostat (#2) is the broken one because I can feel it get warm gradually before the engine gets to the 90 while the 87 degree one (#1) is cold . From the guide below, I think the 87 degree thermostat is for the water returns from the radiator whereas the 103 degree is for flowing to the radiator.

A bit off-topic question, any recommendation on choosing an affordable (under £100) torque wrench for this job?

Thanks @R_U_AFA. I will do it myself, so probably will start with testing trivial things first, like thermostats. I need to buy some essential tools though like a torque wrench.

Thanks for your reply. Since it has not been replaced from 2013 (presumably), does it make sense to replace the whole unit just in case? Because it is a pain to replace the water pump if it fails in early future.

Got a quote £264 for the labor for changing the whole water pump. Does it sound reasonable? Also the price for the water pump is £200.

Thanks for your reply. To be clear it does not over heat and there is no coolant loss. The only issue is it takes a lot of time to reaches to 90 degree operating temperature. There is no error, tested with VCDS.

Have you tried to check all the potential leaking points when the engine is cold? Admittedly, some times the leak is so weak that it does not happen when the system is not under pressure. I have a similar experience but with a different car which the thermostat housing was not properly sealed and had a very slow leak like one tiny drop every several minutes. What you could do is following all the cooling pipes (which you could find them in the workshop manual) and inspect the pipes and the connection points. But, I guess the bottom line would be doing a compression test.

Doesn't anyone have any experience to help with my issue please? Thanks.

Hello There are some topics covered some issues similar to this, but with different engine and different symptoms. Sorry if it has been exactly covered and I couldn't find it. My Octavia 2013 1.4 TSI (water pump is on the different side of cambelt) takes a long time / distance (~25 minutes / 5-6 miles) to reach to temperature (90). Also, during cold weather, when the heater is turned on, there is a drop in the temp shown by the gauge. Temp gauge also drops below 90 during winter when driving downhill. The first thing I could think of is the thermostat being always open. To test my hypothesis, started the engine from cold (morning) and checked the pipe connecting the water pump to the radiator. I noticed that it warms up gradually rather than getting suddenly hot (thermostat opening). 1) Is it actually the thermostat failing or could be other things? 2) How do I know that my car has map-controlled engine cooling system? Should there be any connector to the water pump housing (other than the one for the pump)? If it is map-controlled, can this issue be fixed with VCDS? 3) According to the workshop manual (below image) and Skoda part catalogue (https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2013-753/1/121-121003/#2), 1.4 TSI engine has two 105 and 87 degree thermostats (2 and 15 in the image). Which one should I replace? should I replace both thermostats? 4) Are the Gaskets (6, 9 and 14 in the image) needed to be replaced too? 5) Is it advised to change the water pump and/or its belt at the same time? 6) Does anyone have any idea how much roughly would be the cost? Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for your time.

You can check out the condition of the DPF using this app by a OBD tool like carista https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.applagapp.vagdpf&hl=en_GB&gl=US

Very likely the particle filter is blocked re the sign and your mileage as well.

Maybe an early sign of a broken water pump?

Last year I changed my car (1.4 TSI) cambelt for £500 at Bristol Heritage ŠKODA.

Shouldn't this be something mentioned in the V5C?

You probably need to do a diagnosis with VCDS, OBD11 or something similar and post the results here.

For me with normal key the interior lights are turned on as soon as I remove the keys from the ignition.

Those are normal when the battery is disconnected! They will go out after a while you drive the car. For the power steering to go out, do a full lock to left & right.

I have retrofitted a MIB2 unit (5Q0035874A, Hardware 25, Software 0252) with the hacked smartlink which works absolutely fine with Android Auto. I have recently changed my phone to latest iphone with IOS 15.4, but when I try to connect my phone to the head unit, nothing happens at all, except charging (no connected device is listed). Admittedly, the cable is not a genuine apple cable (genuine cable is lightning to usb-c, while I need lightning to normal usb). My question is, would it be possible that the smarlink has only been hacked for the Anroid Auto not the CarPlay, or such thing is not possible and if it works for Android Auto it should also work for CarPlay? It is worth saying that when I start the smartlink from the menu, it shows all the three logos for Android Auto, CarPlay and MirrorLink. Also, the siri is enabled on my phone. Thanks in advance for your time. P.S. in the smartlink settings, in the connection type I can only see only Android Auto and MirroLink like the below image http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160311/89581fc046d72662179bf262a5a5d30e.jpg

I would also like to know how much does it cost. Thank!

I had a similar issue with my previous rain sensor with error saying "incorrect sensor position". Replace the sensor (replacing the silicon pad didn't work) fixed the issue.

Maybe here:

It is a Bolero MIB1 head unit.