Vahids

For mine, 2013 1.4 TSI, the slave cylinder nipple is easily accessible from top just beside the battery.

This might be the case for diesel, but pretty sure not for petrol engines unless the thermostats are faulty.

What exactly do you mean by intelligent headlight? What kind of functionality does it provide?

How sure are you it is from inside? Could be the famous subframe creaking noise.

I have similar issue with LED bulbs in the door warning lights.

Sorry, what is the problem with it? Just the yellow color? It could be just the brand they use. I recently changed mine and it is yellow. The worst thing can happen is the moist in the braking fluid which you can test by the tester.

The proper way of filling is Using a coolant suction refill kit which get rid of any air pocket in the system. https://ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Draper-Cav1-5010559095445-Expert-Universal-Cooling-System-Vacuum-Purge-And-Refill-Kit

Some people say it is possible to do the bleeding with VCDS.

I don't think keep the car running during the replacement would make any difference apart from getting some light warnings if the cars gets disconnected during the battery replacement (and those warnings disappear almost immediately after starting the engine and travel a few meters). Keep the car running does not help with needing the coding for the new battery.

I assume it does not always charge the battery with 14.4v, it should be an adaptive charging I think. But, then the 11.3v is a bit weird!

Isn't it the turbo wastegate actuator rod rattling noise? Note that it is accessible from top behind the engine in Octavia.

It is an easy thing to check. Just turn the car on (and probably drive a bit) and have an eye on the thermostat outlet hose. If it warms up gradually it shows the thermostat is stuck open whereas if it is cold and suddenly gets warm when the gauge temp is close to middle then it works fine. My car has the same issue (gauge temp drop with turning on the heating or when goes downhill) which I think is the thermostat.

It only overcharges the battery if not coded. So, yes, it works as soon as you connect the new battery without coding. You can code it later whenever you want.

coding is still needed even for the same battery type, but it would be limited to change only the serial number, otherwise car cannot detect the battery has been changed an keep charging with the same ratio as the previous one.

Or this from Halfords: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/batteries/car-batteries/halfords--096agm-start%2Fstop-agm-12v-car-battery-5-year-guarantee-548638.html

Sorry for the trouble! I can think of two issues, 1) since you have flushed the coolant with water and only consumed less than 5 litres of coolant it means half of the coolant is water which is not as effective as (properly mixed) coolant for cooling down the system (Also are you sure the coolant you mixed wasn't already diluted and not for anymore mixing?), 2) it is very likely that you have air lock in the system. You can use coolant suction tools to properly fill the system. They are cheap themselves, but they need compressed air to work (which is a bit an issue for people who don't have the air compressor). Also, have a question. Where you say "Also had an VCDS interface to run the bleeding procedure for the main system and for the low temperature system.", what do you mean by "bleeding with VCDS"? how do you do that? I didn't know you can do bleeding with VCDS.

It depends on the particle filter situation, ash, oil, etc. Also, I think if the pressure filter does not work properly, the coil light flashes time to time. That's my experience from my previous diesel car.

If it appears during short trips, it could be DPF issues, like unable to do regenration or problems with the DPF pressure sensor. Scanning with a tool like VCDS or OBD11 would most likely tell you the issue. If it is a DPF related issue, then you probably can check the DPF factors by VAG app.

Seems to be a faulty coolant sensor.

+1

Here is how you can change it to AND.

Aren't 06K 145 874 L and 06K 145 874 M compatible? https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/06k145874m-turbocharger-2-0tsi-skoda-22014.html

Mine is 1.4 TSI which is different from yours. It is from net https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2013-753/1/121-121003/#10

I have the same issue with my 1.4 TSI engine. For mine, I am pretty sure it is the 103 degree thermostat which is stuck open. For EA211, the thermostat is inside the water pump and the garage refused to change only the thermostat which is doable. They quoted me £240 for the labour and the water pump itself is £200. It is not that difficult to open the water pump and access the thermostats, so I am going to do it myself and replace only the faulty thermostat and probably some gaskets when the weather allows.

No coding is required for changing the display. something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018GKO6OQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1