Binx1310

Thanks for the tip. Will pick some up.

I have a similar issue. If you have an obd reader you can do a full scan for fault codes and it will tell you which flaps have issues. It may be that they are stuck or in my case they have lost their calibration. On a RHD car the actuators are mounted above the glove box. You can remove the glove box to get to them and manually move the flaps in case they are stuck. If not you may need to replace the actuators.

What’s the company car? Sticking with Skoda? Might be worth posting a couple of pics and spec to this thread

Hoping that Skoda branded OEM kit is ok though! Might give the people @tombee recommended a call and see what it would cost from them.

Kopacek is £35 with delivery. Found the part number on eBay for £20. I’ve got a big bottle of IPA I use to clean things down for stick on parts etc. Will give it a good clean with that too.

Glad its a common thing and not just me!. Makes me nervous about changing rear brakes. I can see why the manual states to fit battery charger. I might park it nose to nose with my Superb while doing it so I can connect the jump leads if need be.

Everytime I get my nose up close to my car I seem to find another little spot of missing paint and stone chips. I havent used touch up paint before. I know it won't be a perfect finish but am keen to get something covering the metal work to ensure rust doesnt develop. Any recommendations for cost effective touch up paint? Thanks

Because it’s not programmed by the factory and there’s no option to program it. You would have to ask VAG engineers for a full explanation as to why!

There is this workaround I found though. If you have memory seats you can do this:

This is the one @tombee and I have but I think it’s referring to passenger mirror. Not right mirror specifically. Carscanner app and Vgate iCar Pro Bluetooth 4.0... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XGB4873?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share But as @JR RS said it’s not possible with VAG vehicles for both mirrors to dip.

Thanks. I’m kicking myself as I literally did a post on the superb forum to someone saying about watch the battery voltage as it can cause a crazy dashboard lights if it drops down during coding! Then completely forgot my own advice about 2 days later!

Yes, will do this sometime between now and tuesday just to see if I can rectify anything and its not banging too much driving to garage. Dont want to damage the shock and end up spending even more! Garage is only 1/2 mile from home so hopefully be ok.

Other side you can hardly see as the spring is in the way, which suggests the drivers side spring is not seated properly. You can just about see the "pigtail" of the spring is sat nicely on the metal ring at the bottom of the top mount. On drivers side this metal ring is at the bottom of the shock... At least new top mounts needed and possible springs. Will be replaced in pairs whatever it is.

Let’s hope so. I’ve managed to convince myself that I DONT need bilsteins all round with lowering springs just because one front top mount has failed. So far anyway. From what I can see it looks like the spring isn’t seated correctly so think it is the topmount. But at least the mounts look like they have been replaced so paperwork seems legit just annoying they’ve failed so soon. Of the mileage is legit that is!

Went to take the kids to school this morning and had a loud bang and feeling of something forcing past each other with a typical twang of a spring when turning lock to lock. Left the car on the drive and droped the kids off in the wifes car. Looking at what I can see of the strut with the wheel on it looks like a metal shim or cover of some sort has dropped down over the shock. I am suspecting top mount. Which is annoying as it (alegedly) had new top mounts and shocks 20,000 miles ago according to the paperwork I got with the car. But this was the same garage that put the pollen filter in upside down so who knows! Booked in with local independant garage round the corner for Tuesday so will see whats what then. Might get them to change the rear discs and pads while theyve got it too as I was going to do that myself soon anyway.

I think this is a mistranslation of Passenger rather than Right. i.e. Passenger mirror down (Right for LHD, Left for RHD) I am not aware that its possible to have drivers mirror dip too. Im not sure i would want to as even with the reversing camera I still check mirrors and over my shoulder for pedestrians/objects in blind spot. When reversing into a bay or against kerb the passenger mirror is enough to line up properly.

True on the learning. Mine has a little scuff on the near side rim and it’s very obvious.

Yes low battery voltage seems to give lots of random errors as the individual control modules start to lose communication with each other. For 2023 is it still under warranty? Seems unusual for the battery to be failing already. Might be worth returning to the dealer and getting them to look.

Thanks. Not done wrapping stuff before and not sure I would achieve such a new look. Looks beautiful.

Go for the dark wheels. You know it’s right choice…

Think the dealers do now more diagnosis than normal garages and then start replacing parts. From the limited dealings I’ve had with them, a good independent specialist is far superior to OEM.

I have a white estate too and would love to black out all the chrome. Did you wrap or paint them? or buy OEM parts?

I have access to repair manuals that describe some adjustments. I’ll DM you a link

SOLVED It was battery voltage all along. I’ve seen so many posts on this forum of Christmas tree dashboards and people being told it’s low voltage but for some reason it didn’t register with me at the time. Took the car for 10 Minute blast up the A14 and then turned everything electronic off and plugged in. Cleared all fault codes without issue. Scanned again and just 2 codes that I know about still showing. Phew. Kept it plugged in for 5 min drive home and showing 14.3 volts so I’m happy it’s charging ok.

I think it’s the right profile but I think maybe battery voltage was low. The car had been sat for an hour or so with internal lights on and then headlights on when the ignition was turned on to connect to obd. I read on an Alpha forum of someone having similar issues with Bluetooth obd. Will take the car for a 10 min drive and try again.