Binx1310

Just ordered a pair from Ali express for £3.20!

I think they are build in to the bonnet catches. I can’t think why else there would be an electrical connection to the catches. Perhaps try adjusting them just in case it’s not pulling the bonnet properly closed?

I’ve used this radar cover (black but they do the one with chrome stripes too) https://ebay.us/m/rsUUk0 I also got grill surround and lower grill strips from them. They also do the grill with chrome stripes but not black. https://ebay.us/m/2IWUJP Parts are all branded as Polcar and seem to be drop shipped from Poland. Took about a week to arrive but good communication from seller. All fit ok apart from each part had a small tab that wasn’t on the OEM and needed to be trimmed off with a Stanley knife. I suspect this is to get round copyright as technically the part is different. @JR RS has a guide on removing the front bumper which you will need to do to change these parts.

I’ll have a browse through the workshop manuals and see if it’s listed.

all guide pins on rear brakes cleaned and greased well when reassembling. Just taken wheel off and refitted and the wobble has gone again. Took up to motorway speed, hard braking. Nothing. It can only be something suspension that relaxes when weight taken off when jacking up and then once settled in again allows movement. I’m off to the airport again Monday so will see what it’s like on a decent run.

So to clarify, if it has the view button I can just swap the buttons from my current wheel, and if its heated it will still plug in to a non-heated clockspring and work, just not with heating. And DSG paddles will also work where I dont have then currently? Also will the older type airbag fit the newer type wheel, albeit with a gap at the top that cant be seen? If this is correct it opens up the potential to other wheels significantly.

only single piston on rear brakes which I checked when they were pushed in during pad change. I don't understand how just removing the wheel and refitting can make it go away unless its something suspension and to do with settling with no weight on. I will test it this afternoon.

Well, 200 miles later and the brake judder is back. Im going to jack up and remove a wheel later today to see if that makes it go away again temporarily. If so it points to suspension issue on that corner

The way I position the wheel is to sit on the floor facing it then wedge a foot either side of it so the wheel is sitting on the top of my feet as I then put a bolt in. I use the skoda screwdriver, the end of the handle has a 17mm socket so you can use it to easily spin in the bolts unti the thread catches. It always hurts my feet though, so maybe some positioning pins would be a better bet!

Thanks. I nearly Bought the wheel @Sko101 had put photos of on here as it seemed a bargain at £130 but it’s got a view button so would have ended up spending a lot more to make it work! It seems the part number you used is the one I need and they seem to be more expensive!

I haven’t been able To find out if you can use a heated wheel on a car without heated wheel connection but just not use the heated function. Perhaps @Cairus would know this sort of info?

I was looking at this exact wheel on eBay! That’s a more modern heated one. You need to get the right part number based on age of car and if you have heated or not. Have a search on the forums and there’s a few posts listing part numbers. Basically you need to stick to the same as you have but the flat bottom version. So if it’s not heated get a not heated one. If it’s heated get a heated one.

Yes. It won’t save the lowest setting but with personalisation off it shouldn’t move from the lowest setting everytime you unlock the car. When it’s set to the key it moves to the saved setting everytime you unlock. If it’s at the extreme it will move away from that slightly to the position that it did save. Bit without key it shouldn’t try to reset itself each time so as long as no one presses the memory buttons the it should stay where you want it to be.

Well my strange brake judder has returned. New pads and discs didn’t solve it. But it goes away for about 200 miles then comes back again. It went away previously when removing and replacing the wheel. And came back after a similar time. I wonder if it something with jacking up the car and the suspension settling. I’ll check wheel bolt torque first then try jacking it up again

You can turn off the personalisation so that it doesn’t link to your key. Then it will not reset to the saved position when you open the car. That way you can leave it in the extreme position that you like. Obviously this doesn’t work if there are multiple drivers of the car with the seat settings saved to each key.

Ah so its not the MIB3 screen with buttons down each side. Whats the advantage of MIB3 over MIB2.5? Especially if you cannot use navigation

Ah I must be Incorrect. I had read that there was something that would need to be updated to have mib3 working in older vehicles. So if you don’t want navigation you just have to change screen and unit in glove box?

Finished off the front grill today. Bumper off job. Once again a big thanks to @JR RS for a brilliant how to guide. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/469985-front-bumper-removal/#findComment-5277204 Lots and lots of Torx screws and fiddly clips but it wasn’t too bad a job in the end. Really like the look now it’s all done! The badge is not quite the right white. I think it’s more candy white. But I begrudge paying £100 from kopacek for two colour matched badges. I may get another couple of cheap Ali ones and try painting them myself with touch up paint. Just the side view left to dechrome with wrap around the windows and the roof rails to install

Finished off the front grill today. Bumper off job. Once again a big thanks to @JR RS for a brilliant how to guide. I was naive and thought because I don’t have front parking sensors that there wasn’t a plug to undo. Turns out the ambient air temperature is mounted on the front bumper so that has to be unplugged. There are some who report changing the front grill without taking the bumper off. I have no idea how it could possibly be achieved as even with the bumper off I had a few sweary moments trying to get clips undone! Really like the look now it’s all done! The badge is not quite the right white. I think it’s more candy white. But I begrudge paying £100 from kopacek for two colour matched badges. I may get another couple of cheap Ali ones and try painting them myself with touch up paint. Just the side view left to dechrome with wrap around the windows and the roof rails to install but SWMBO wants new taps fitted in the bathroom so those might have to wait a while!

Yes I’m almost certain it’s number 1 for me! Could well be number two too. I haven’t had the car long and have no idea if it’s had a new battery. Will have a look and see if it’s got a date on it. Or if the date is in the coding somewhere. It is sometimes a bit sluggish to start in the cold so I suspected battery may be needing changing sometime soon.

It could be that the new bypass has failed for some reason. Depends how it’s been connected.

What a bargain. And it’s cleaned up really nice. The wheels and the stance certainly suit it.

Glad it worked ok. I’ve seen it work fine for some and others it won’t even read the module. I think it’s very dependent on what hardware you’re starting with!

Mine is 2016 MIB 2 but I get this from time to time. Hard reset phone and all is well. Unless it’s specifically a MIB3 problem

Tackled some of the easier of the dechrome tasks today. Now need to take front bumper off to fit the grill surround and lower grill strip, fit roof bars and wrap window chrome.