Binx1310

Yes just changed rear discs and pads. But it’s done it since then. Although they aren’t bedded in yet. It’s already set to early. I wonder if accelerator set to linear might have some effect too.

I wonder if someone with more knowledge of DSG can tell me if this is Normal or a potential problem? My car is a 2016 190tdi dsg with a questionable dsg service history (just one oil and filter change at 110,000 miles when flywheel was changed) and now at 130,000 miles. It only ever happens on my drive (flat and level) when starting from cold and only now and again. Start engine Shift to R Touch accelerator to release autohold Light touch on brake to slow speed a little as it takes off a bit lively A little jerk of movement and Stall It’s as if reverse is a little highly geared and tick over isn’t enough revs to drive against the brake slightly to control the speed. I’ve not owned a dsg before so may well be something I’m doing wrong. I’ve tried letting it idle a little longer so it warms up a bit more and I think it improves things but it’s not consistent enough to know for certain. One solution is to reverse park on my drive so I’m starting off forwards but that puts my drivers door against the wall of the house so it’s a bit awkward. No fault codes on tcu. Any tips gratefully received!

Thanks. Will give them a call today.

Had it cleaned inside and out ahead of major inspection service at local independent garage this week. I forgot how nice the black magic pearl is in the sunshine when it’s clean. It doesn’t stay that way for long. Also rediscovered the wheels are silver! It needs pads and discs all round so not going to be a cheap one. But as it’s the family bus I thought I would just get them to do it all at once to save time. Downloaded all the workshop manuals from Erwin this evening as I’m seriously considering starting to do all the servicing myself.

I paid for an hours access to ErWin this evening to download all the service manuals for our Kodiaq as I am intending to start doing basic servicing myself. I got an alert about a "Field Measures" warranty campaign outstanding. It relates to updating the BCM software with ODIS as there is an identified fault that the doors can lock even with the key present inside the vehicle. The Warranty expired September 2024 and the campaign was issued July 2024. We have been using VAG independant specialist for servicing once the 2 year service plan ran out since 2023 so it hasn't been presented at a dealer since. As it is out of warranty would this work now be chargeable even though it was a warranty campaign?

Thanks

Yes. MIB helper says 0324 is the latest version. Can I go straight from 0302 to 0324 or do I have to stepping stone between them?

Hi. My wife’s kodiaq said it was doing an update but seems to only be on version 302. MIB helper says latest version is 324. https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P30200P#details Will it continue to update itself OTA or is it worth downloading the files and doing from usb? I have read on the Superb forums that you have to do sequential updates but I think that’s from older versions. Can you go straight from 302 to 324? Thanks

Can you feel it through the steering wheel or just the car/pedal shuddering? I had a judder since owning my car. Couldn’t feel it through steering wheel but was more noticeable under ACC braking. Which pointed to the rear brakes. I changed discs and pads and it cured it. Nothing visibly wrong with the brake components but a very small amount of runout on the discs is magnified through the car when braking.

That sounds pretty reasonable. If you have the hardware it should be as simple as ticking a box in the options on carscanner so long as you know which version of the camera you have installed - carscanner can tell you this.

You need to have the correct hardware. If your car has the camera facing forward mounted by the rear view mirror then it’s possible. I use the app CarScanner https://www.carscanner.info with this reader from Amazon. https://amzn.eu/d/0bL4UUEM £8 for pro version of app and £22 for OBD module. This can code a lot of functions. It also has a coding history feature where you can simply reverse the coding carried out if you encounter errors. Having said that, if you aren’t absolutely sure what you are doing it’s best to pay someone to do the work as you are interacting with important safety features of the car.

Having changed the sun visor recently I understand how the clamps Work. Removing the old one I broke the clips to remove it intentionally and since then found a specific tool on Ali express to remove them. This also works for the handles apparently. The specialist pliers are £80 OEM and £35 for a laser tools copy. I haven’t tried the one from Ali yet but hopefully will reduce the risk of damaging anything

I did. I was quoted £175 to have a professional wrap them. They’re quite a complex shape so didn’t fancy tackling it myself. And then if I was ever to use them with roof bars etc it’s likely the clamps would damage the film. The ones I bought were £64 delivered. The sun visor removal tool cost me £5. And so long as I don’t break anything in the process of installing them then that should be all it costs me to install! 🤞

Car scanner can be a bit hit and miss. I would advise that you go to the “use user defined bytes” at the bottom of the settings screen detailed below and take a screen shot or write them down so that you can revert to current settings if something goes wrong. I’m not certain that it will definitely get you back to where you are but hopefully so! Select coding and service Then luggage compartment Then scroll to the bottom and choose tailgate dataset customisation Then click on choose other and select one of the superbliftback ones. Then set the parameters you want and choose apply. (The open/close from remote should be selected and kick close for you) You may need different settings if you have kessy or virtual pedal. I have seen on another page that you have to hard reset through the long coding options for it to apply but it worked fine for me without this.

should be collecting the roof rails from work later next week. Will then see if I get a chance to have a go at installing them over the coming weekends.

Found some on eBay. £64 including delivery. Look like they’ve got a few scratches on but my chrome ones have the white marks on so won’t be any worse than now. They’ve been delivered but to work so will check them over when I’m back next week.

@Kosin sent me a dm on how he did his. Seems like an ok job. I’ve bought a proper tool from Ali express to release the sun visors as I don’t want to break the new one I’ve just installed!

I would. If you can afford it. Then you know whole assembly is new components of known quality. I recently had a spring break and it took the top mount and damaged the shock all together. Top mount and shock had been replaced by previous owner 20,000 miles ago but old coil springs reused.

New discs and pads fitted today and on a quick test drive it seems to have solved this issue. Nothing glaringly obvious with the discs or pads. Perhaps slight uneven wear between inner and outer pad on one side. And one disc was stuck on to the hub fairly. But discs appear straight to the eye but I appreciate that they could create wobble with very minor runout that’s probably not visible. Will let them bed in over the next 200 miles or so then brake hard to be sure.

Has anyone replaced their roof rails? I’ve bought some black sportline rails to swap out for my chrome ones. I’ve got the manual so understand the steps to remove the headliner entirely. But wondered if anyone else has done the task and if you can just release it in key areas to get to the bolts of if you can do it one side then the other, or if you have to drop the whole thing at once Also any tips on making sure they seal properly when bolting the new rails on? Thanks

This is the one I have https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExEgR7K

Yes good point. I’ve got the same one as the photo and had it working flawlessly for the last 3 months or so.

It’s a bit easier to lift the whole gear surround area up to rearrange the wires. It lifts from the front first and the orange tool that comes with the memory module is perfectly sized to prise it up. The modules work well but I noticed if I turn it back on in traffic it deactivates s/s everytime it kicks in! So have to keep deactivating it. I’m not in traffic often so the positives massively outweigh the negatives.

Rear pads and discs changed. This seems to have cured the rumble under braking when on ACC.

Changed rear discs and pads for brembo units today to try and cure the rumble under heavy braking that’s particularly bad using the ACC. All went pretty straightforward thanks to @Bap33 brilliant guide over on the kodiaq guides section. No major dramas. A couple of tense moments with nearly rounding out one of the Torx that holds one disc on and a disc that refused to come off and needed some percussive persuasion. Pleased to say that all back together with no issue and from the short gentle test drive seems to have cured the rumble. Carscanner worked perfectly to apply, remove and calibrate service mode on the EPB.