ApertureS

Quite the opposite, a lot of the leuchte channels need their brightness and also their bulb types changing. you also need to create a new leuchte channel 27 for the dynamic side of things

Where are you finding these intervals that say 50k? there has been a recent change to timing belt intervals to bring us in line with the continents intervals. But even so, before or after the change it was never 50K

Yeah it’s not exactly a straight forward job sadly. Basically everything at the front of the car needs removing including steering wheel, centre console, sometimes the seats too! There is also the possibility that it is not the motor and maybe the box has had an internal flap failure or one of the lever arms has broken or came detached. I also may have some replacement motors if you were interested in buying one? Also whilst I was there I’d be making sure to grease (with suitable grease) every moving part of that heater box, they have a tendency to make a noise a lot and get stuck in places

I mean when you go to a docking point to charge your car that has built in cables, what do you use… non genuine cables. the whole point of types for the cables is an international standard so they can all be interchanged without fear of breaking anything

That’s more like it. 100% they don’t trace the whole system for issues, they just top it up and check it works

Is it the original wiring for the car? something aftermarket? is it off the car? On the car? Easy access? why doesn’t it have a terminal, did it break? What kind of terminal is required? you’ll have to give us more details and maybe even pictures. I’ve got a giant hydraulic crimper that can do up to 90mm^2 if you’re near north London and supply your own terminal.

Why are you looking for a second hand one? Chances are it’s not gonna be far off having the same leaking issue. I think your best bet is to bite the bullet and just get a new one - else you will be paying out twice

The reason they normally snap is the ball joints seize and snap the arm as they can’t rotate. Superglue probably won’t fix that, if it was me I would be replacing the sensor as the arms can’t be purchased separately

Live data will need to be checked to see if the switch pack is faulty and supplying an always forward condition. Once live data is checked you can move on from there whether that is wiring and switch checks or a stuck relay inside the module

Got any photos of this massive crack? Be interesting to see what has failed to cause the casing to crack. (if it’s the mounts for the dog bone that cracked/snapped then this is an issue that happens when people don’t replace the bolts after removing them and instead reuse the stretch bolt and they work themselves loose)

I might be wrong but I don’t think these cars have an alternator (unless they’re at the weird point with a Starter Generator + hybrid motor) The 12V battery is charged from a DC to DC convertor which steps down the 400V to 12V to keep the battery charged. This is only done whilst the car is turned on as the HV system is completely isolated when the car is turned off.

Please don’t just go changing parts without a full diagnosis. The EGR valve isn’t a cheap part and most places will not diagnose any further and just throw a valve on it and hope for the best. A few things that I would be checking: MAF sensor is not faulty No air leaks on the intake or boost system DPF is not blocked up causing excessive back pressure EGR valve actuator is moving freely and actuated correctly Then lastly I would be checking the actual EGR valve for being stuck/broken

The gloss black trim is a very tight fit but just un clips straight upwards. Gotta be gentle with it though. can be done in less than 5 minutes

Out of interest how do you know it’s faulty? and to find it if you really are sure it’s that one, simply unplug a sensor and check what code appears, plug it back in and clear and do this till you find sensor 3. You only have bank 1 as it’s not a V engine so chances are it’s the furthest back sensor after the DPF. I believe the temperatures sensors are; one in the turbo, one pre dpf, one post dpf. The other sensors you talk of are going to be oxygen sensors and NOx sensors its hard to say without me knowing your engine code. or it could be complete opposite problem and your scan tool is incorrectly reading a fault code (which happens a lot) and it may not even have a sensor 3 and you’ll need to read it with a more advanced tool.

Using a generic scan tool is not gonna be much help here sorry Fault codes contain a ton of data that can be read by more specialised tools and help diagnose the fault. Things such as short to ground, short to power and such. As it’s a temperature sensor it can be tested with a multimeter to see if it’s open circuit and replaced if it is

You also can’t just go and buy the software and hardware yourself. I mean you can get it, but you won’t be able to use it without a login. and then you need a special security login to do what is required

Exactly the same as i did for the first few weeks! Basically the inside face is to unlock, the outside face is to lock. Dont touch both together or it plays up and doesnt know what you want

You would need ODIS as its the only tool that can do the routine required whether it is immobiliser service or component protection.

Removing the upper cowl is just to give a bit more space and prevent scratching any trim. I think you are right about being able to do it without removing, but for the extra 10 seconds if seems worth it to me

This will be a failed boot handle, nothing to do with the central locking. the external button micro switch has failed so that is why you need to use the key. if you’re in the U.K. I can sell you a good genuine one if you’re interested, just drop me a private message.

Either leave it as is, or call out a smart repair is my honest suggestion. Body repair is far from easy and reading a guide is only a small part of the battle, years of practice and technique to blend a panel is required. (I attempted to blend a bumper and wing once, just looked like i had finished with a hard line no matter how i done it, you may have better luck)

FYI: SWAP stands for Software as Product - much like what BMW announced with their heated seats - all the hardware is there but the software needs enabling.

They are called swap codes for the nav system Not all will be active/inactive and it all depends on how the vehicle was spec’d from the factory. It it also not a job of wanting all enabled for extra features - some will be things like Australian maps and other things you don’t want in the U.K.

Post an autoscan of 09 adaptations and we can advise what needs correcting.

This is because no one uses the special tool, is cheap and worth its weight in gold for jobs like this. it’s like a long screwdriver with 2 prongs at the end. if you look up T10518 they can be had for around £12