ApertureS

Thule aero bars are the way forward as they look nice and the quick detach is a nice feature. for the carrier, I used to use the Thule (591 I think??) and for a 29er mountain bike it made getting it on and off the car a doddle even with the size of it!

Your brake thickness will have minimal effect on braking. the difference will be when the brakes are so thin it’s all of a sudden metal to metal or the disc cracks cause it’s so thin. Please don’t take your car stopping fine as proof that your brake pads and discs are fine. surely the mot place has the ability to check minimum thickness for components, else whatever you give them could be made up or for the wrong car no?

I’d love to see what’s going on in the rack. is it just making a noise? No play or notching? What kind of noise? A scraping or a knocking?

It could happen on these as well, if you sent the dogbone bolt through the rack youd make a bit of a mess! Its hard to say what could be causing it without an actual strip down of the rack to find the cause. Could be something as weird as a misaligned subframe causing excess caster and pressure on one side of the rack (as an example)

When you say the rack has failed again. Do you know what failed specifically the first time on the rack, and what has failed this time?

I’m based in north London if it’s any good to you. with the 2021 it can be done but need to confirm the radio and camera type required. feel free to PM me

Got the part numbers for the under trays and bolt kits you used? thank you

So for the mk3 superb there is no wiring for the second fog light on the U.K. spec cars. You would need to do either of these 2 things to get it working: Run a wire between the left and right cluster to daisy chain the light up and adjust the leuchte channel to general bulb instead of current monitoring (prevents bulb warning) or the OE way of doing it would be to run a wire to the bcm and code the correct leuchte channel in place.

If the job is done correctly it is not inevitable at all. Free or not, if they have carried out bodywork on your car to Skoda standards then you need to look up the Skoda approved bodyshop guarantee. They have to cover it for X amount of time if they touched it and repaired it. Cost does not matter, if you paid £10 for it or £1000 for it - it’s still covered. this is of course if it was done by a Skoda dealership and not a random car dealer. And if Skoda done the work through a none approved bodyshop, then that’s even worse.

Nope that’s not at all how it works. although the last letter can be a newer version, most of the time it is a completely different part or variant. for example a headlamp unit ending in A may be LHD whereas B may be RHD. Just cause everything but the last part is the same does not mean the part will work.

Sorry to tell you this, but on 90% of the rear setups you can slide the disc out without removing the carrier. but yes if you do remove it, replace the damn bolts! They are called torque to yeild bolts - and doing some research on them is quite interesting. After the angle is done the bolt deforms beyond its elastic range to its plastic range causing permanent elongation, if you went to reuse it again there is a good chance it will snap as it’s already stretched once. now the crux is, if you know the exact length the bolt is down to a few thou you can measure it and see if it’s stretched beyond reuse or not, the spec for a £5 bolt isn’t going to be available as you simply replace it, but a bolt costing £500 will be checked for stretch and reused if within a set spec.

Thanks for all that dude!!! much appreciated. of course it’s so much more intricate than other vag cars!!

That’s exactly what I’m after thanks. As many photos of all bits as you can get would be massively helpful!

Hi everyone, Does anyone here have the multi layer/variable boot floor in their car? im looking at a possible retrofit so am after a VIN and also a lot of detailed photos of everything no matter how unimportant it may seem. I believe there may be a bit more to this than bolting a few brackets in but want to be 100% sure. thank you to whoever may help

Would need to be plugged into a decent diagnostic tool to check for faults and can also check if it’s a genuine camera that way

A fault code does not mean that component is faulty and loading the parts cannon up instead of full and proper diagnosis will end up costing you more in the long run. There is also the risk that whatever code reader you have is giving red herrings and wrong fault codes. An o2 sensor will not be causing the faults you describe, it may be faulty but would need to be actually tested first, and don’t expect that to cure your faults. Was the crank sensor tested or just replaced? Was the pick-up ring checked for damage as it was possibly disturbed during the clutch change? have the readings been scoped to see if the engine is in time? has the timing been checked?

The paint work isn’t new and was there when you bought the car, you bought it in that condition so they would laugh you out the dealer if you complain about that. The knocking noise and sat nav fault are both warranty claims (as long as they can’t prove outside influence) so I’d be getting them to sort both under warranty. Even if there is outside influence, it’s been 3 weeks so they should sort it free of charge either way

It would need to be done with odis or vcp as you need to upload some hacked software to the module to allow you to enter new swap codes which haven’t been authorised by Skoda. This doesn’t include the steering wheel stalks that need replacing also as well as a bit of coding in a few other modules.

Is it a factory fit reverse camera? is it a genuine reverse camera? Have you checked for any fault codes?

The last letter is not a minor difference, it can be a completely different shape, size, function of part. If you want help finding suitable modules for your car drop me a message with your reg and vin.

ATO Standard, mini and J type are what are used. most circuits will use standard or mini

Get a circuit breaker fuse which will disconnect the circuit and you just click a little button on it to reset the circuit

If it’s only been 6 months since the work was done you are legally entitled to go back to them. most paint work comes with a 2 year or more guarantee so id be getting them to sort it properly this time.

Have you got a sunroof? four possible places; light seal rear vent behind bumper poor factory panel seal sunroof drain

You’ll know if your airbag has been stolen cause they don’t just take one…. It’s normally on a theft to order car and they will clear it out of parts that are needed to repair a crash damaged car. plus if they somehow took an airbag, removed it from its covering and replaced the cover you would have a airbag light on (on all cars)