ApertureS

Sorry I’ve just realised after re reading! is a 1.5 tsi, 1.5 tsi act or 1.5 tdi? please ignore my previous message until clarified

Do your front two door handles have a small dimple on them? Keyless entry only works on the front handles and even changing a key battery shouldn’t loose coding, unless it’s been dead for weeks, then maybe a small chance

Well they are some interesting theories! 1. Water pump doesn’t need doing as it’s on the opposite side of the engine 2. Spot on 3. Steer well clear - what cowboys recommend not replacing the tensioner! also as it’s a 1.5tsi they need a very specialised bit of kit to do the timing alignment which isn’t too cheap - I would be confirming the garage has access to this kit before they get started you will need to replace the belt; tensioner, idler and associated stretch bolts and the seals on both ends of the camshaft caps.

Nope, shocks are done without any other suspension disturbance really. (maybe track rod and anti roll bar link) but to replace the anti roll bar you need to remove it from the vehicle, this is done by removing the subframe

I don’t believe there is a VCP file for this - So I’m not sure what they tried? and did you supply them any files? It needs to be done with a hacked file that will leave a fault code in the car and personally I’ve had to do it with vas5054

Normally as part of a lighting check they’ll put them to off to check the DRL’s. and they switch the auto hold off as it’s a pain to get on a ramp with it turned on, if you have to do the small movements it can get a bit close to the ramp posts 😂

New cars will Happily regen at speeds of 30mph now! It’s nothing to do with engine speed and load, the car will create its own load through the auxiliary components if required and to increase temperature it uses a mix of glowplugs, post fuel injection and throttle control in the exhaust

Has anyone actually looked at wiring diagrams? I believe if you don’t have interior lighting package you have no rear door modules. this means the door locks are controlled by the bcm and simply need to back feed the correct deadlock wire in the door jam. but with that a smashed sump and body damage honestly I’d be walking away…. Chances are that engine was still running after having the sump destroyed and the only way of telling is a full engine strip down.

The only issue now is I can’t refit my front mud flaps which is a big shame!

The speakers are riveted to the door, they need drilling out and replacing. Other than that, they are fairly straightforward to replace. A brand new speaker can be had for around £50-70

Welcome to the forum. This is a terrible approach to take as you are pulling the wealth of knowledge from the forum and into the private domain, we are all here to help eachother so if you need help, do it through the forum in a well documented and descriptive thread to help all. Not only that, there are many phishers looking for peoples details so I wouldnt recommend putting your phone number on the internet or giving one out to an absolute stranger. Now if as you say the diesel and coolant are being mixed there are two things that I would be checking; 1. The heads go porous on these PD engines so it could be diesel and coolant are mixing through the head casting. 2. There are a lot of coolant and fuel lines on top of the engine and near the coolant bottle, they are all the exact same size and colour houses, make sure no one has mixed them up and connected a coolant line to the diesel return and a fuel line to the coolant tank.

Ive got to say, for the price of a maxton kit the fixings it comes with and instructions are shocking! They really expect you to just slap some tiny self tappers through the sills and that will hold the side skirts on. Really not good enough in my opinion. Instead I went down the route of drilling the sills, painting the now exposed metal, fitting stainless steel rivnuts flush with the underseal. Then fitting the side skirts with stainless steel bolts and large stainless washers as well as a good seam of PU adhesive to prevent water getting into the area. All of these extra parts cost me £15 and a good few hours of my time. But at least I dont have to worry about rusting out sills or my side skirts falling off.

Its like how the 2013 golf had leaky rear speakers... and yet last week i was doing the same job on a 2020 place with the same issue, 7 years and not resolved.

So CG is the hardware version used up till 05/2017 so that hasnt been replaced. The Software DQ Is harder to tell what that is from sadly!

Not to a superb I haven’t. I’ve ordered a set up for my own car though as the squeaking in the winter is annoying me

The bushes are part of the anti roll bar and are purchased complete, but… You can fit polybushes by drilling the brackets out and replacing them, this is what id recommend. make sure they pack them with marine grease to prevent squeaking from the harder material.

The prefix is the vehicle model, 8E or 3V or such. Next number is body type (hatch/estate etc) The 8 refers to a body part 67 specifies the diagram number/section of the car 871 is generally a specific type of part (in this case a parcel shelf) the suffix can be anything from different versions to replacement parts and such. generally the middle parts will be the same across all vw part numbers but the start and end being different will change the part entirely just in case you were interested how the part numbering works

Do not charge the battery off the car. the car keeps track of the batteries charged capacity, if you remove it and charge it off the car it will loose track. Do not connect the negative to the battery terminal directly! This will bypass the current monitor sensor. Instead connect it to the ground point on the bulkhead. positive can go to the positive terminal

If the pads are squealing you are metal to metal. If you think they are low either visually inspect or ask a garage to do it. Will only take them 2 seconds. They should give you a rough estimate of how many miles are left in them

I’m not sure what you mean by heating the engine then? the block is the engine? It’s a common misconception, but glowplugs are nothing like a spark plug sorry, a spark plug ignites the air fuel mixture. A glow plug is simply for heating the air in the cylinder to assist with a more efficient burn at colder temperatures. A diesel ignites under the sheer pressures produced by combustion and would do so without a glow plug no problem. Whereas a petrol wouldn’t work at all without a spark plug. Most glowplugs aren’t actually required on modern diesels to assist with cold starts until below 7 degrees as pressures have increased and fuel is cleaner, most of the time they are now used for emissions control and dpf regeneration now. Regarding the battery now - a multimeter is a very basic way of telling you the voltage of a battery but won’t tell you the overall condition, go somewhere like Halfords for it to be done for free with a battery tester. It will tell you the cca rating and a state of health. Disconnecting it will throw a lot of fault codes into the car - you need to turn the steering lock to lock slowly a few times with the engine running to clear the faults. Then cycle the ignition and you will be back to normal.

I believe you may need a business account for this. I may be wrong though

That is very interesting!! you have a 2020+ bcm? And yet still no closure animation. im wondering if it could be a power supply to the rear lamp issue, possibly turning power off before the animation gets a chance to run? hmm, I’ll do some digging and see what I find

Did you have the full facelift done to your 2016 and do you have open and close animations for the rear lights? if so, do you have a full autoscan of your vehicle? I would be very interested to see it!

Glowplugs definitely don’t heat up the engine block, they heat the air in the cylinder, which is only useful when the engine is rotating else you would be heating air for no reason. They would have to be running for a very long time to heat the entire engine block. old diesel glowplugs took a bit of time to get up to temperature, newer plugs are almost instantly hot now and reach much higher temperatures. It sounds more like you simply have a low battery than a preheat issue. the solution for an extremely cold climate is either a dedicated block heater which are normally mains powered or a parking/webasto heater which is a small fuel fired engine that heats your cars coolant system up before you get to the car

Definitely wouldn't associate copper grease with a decent mechanic for modern cars - No manufacturer of parts or vehicles has recommended copper grease in the last 20 years so it has absolutely no place in a modern workshop in my opinion, not only invalidating any parts warranties but also just makes an absolute mess! (I hate the stuff if you hadnt guessed )