ApertureS

Every other manufacturer with start/stop or AGM batteries requires adapting a new battery. Everything from Land Rover to Hyundai. Do people do it every time? Nope. some it’s done by a combination of buttons on the dash, others by diagnostic tool. Coolant/anti freeze whatever you want to call it, you are correct it is made up of 2 components - water which actually has the heat transfer abilities and then the additive which contains the anti freeze, rust inhibitors, lubricants, colouring and bitrex. The silicat bag is there to slowly deposit the additives back into the coolant mix to extend the coolant life in some cases to 15 years! Without the silicat bag and using the new coolant g12evo you can expect coolant to last easily 10 years. Whereas old coolants contained acids and needed replacing a lot more often. And what you say about customers and staff in dealers being brainwashed is spot on - a lot of the time the staff will push a sale without actually knowing if it’s what people require, simply because they are told to push it

The bag is there to increase the service life of the genuine coolant, it will still function without it there, just means it will need changing earlier (based on testing the coolant first of course) No one has said fitting a new battery won’t work without adaptions - but they are there for a reason and that reason is charging profiles, start stop control, battery capacity management. Basically it is used to keep the agm battery charged properly and also to allow the start stop to work at its best, seems you think the people that designed the car are more on a mission to get you than to actually correctly fix the car with their procedures. Ive seen many a coolant bottle split so just keep that in mind - a 2 year warranty does little to help when you are stuck at the side of the road with no coolant

Its not exactly something I would recommend for a DIY job for anyone, but then i dont know your skill or tool levels. If you are having to ask then I am assuming you may not want to attempt it really. Not without someone that is skilled assisting you. Do you have the correct timing tools? The torque settings as well as all the replacement bolts that are stretch bolts, including the engine mount bolts and their new torque settings? Also a lot of people forget that to properly bleed the cooling system after requires a diagnostic routine being ran on the car to remove all the air bubbles from the system

100% not a OE wire so chances are it is for your aftermarket oil pan heater.

Why replace a decent genuine part with a cheap one that could and do just split for fun along their seams? A genuine one with no silicat bag is only £30 They are two separate parts and dont fail together, why change both when only one is the problem? Also be wary of fitting an aftermarket cap as they may have different pressure ratings than what is meant for the car. Annoying that some are like this, have you double checked the bottle says 'mit silikat' as some dont have the bag if you cant see it Why would you get rid of all the genuine coolant that offers the maximum protection and replace it with some universal stuff that definitely will not offer the same protection. Instead just clamp the pipe off when you replace the bottle and top up with 1L of genuine G12evo coolant which is the newest revision and saves you draining all the good coolant to replace with non compatible stuff. (Also mixing certain coolants can cause a world of problems). you would have to fully flush the system with water before adding a different coolant. Using the above method will prevent any need to bleed the system. But if for some reason you still go ahead with a full drain, then it depends what engine you have. If you have a 1.6 or 2.0 tdi then you will need to correctly bleed it with a vacuum bleeder followed by running the diagnostic bleed routine. Similar process for the 2.0 tsi, for the smaller engines it varies but isn't as complicated.

Be interesting to see what they class as failing, photos would be the best! If its light cracking, this is perfectly normal. I wouldnt consider changing it till the cracks begin to penetrate the width of the rubber by maybe 30-40%.

If the water isn’t escaping outside the engine then it’s still in the engine and your level won’t be changing?

It’s a common problem on the MQB platform so superb, octavia, golf. There is a mm or 2 of play in the pads in the up/down direction and it is even apparent on genuine pads sometimes. The solution is to either pull the springs out further to apply more force, use the pagid adhesive liners to prevent movement or you can try a different brand of pads.

You’re basically spot on. All new wiring would need running and new hardware fitting. You would also need to find a vehicle specific dataset for the module as well as all the correct coding and adaptations. I’ve done a few of these for customers now, it’s not exactly a quick and easy job to do properly as the wires need running the full length of the car

No to the bypass setup. You will need to go for a purpose made electronics setup that allows the car to know when a trailer is plugged in. this allows bulb monitoring, cruise control changes and abs braking changes. As well as turning off the parking sensors constantly beeping. regarding brand for the electronics I personally fit either genuine or PF Jones kit

This is the issue with aftermarket reverse cameras. Whatever they do to the infotainment to make them ‘work’ is a secret so chances are it can’t be fixed with any tools. unless there is some way to ‘reset’ the camera to factory defaults and try again. Maybe contact the seller to see if they have an suggestions personally I’d recommend and always have done that you get a genuine camera fitted and have it correctly coded and calibrated using odis and SVM.

Remove the LED bulbs that you have fitted aftermarket. these will be the cause of your problems you will probably find that if you turn the interior light on and open the glovebox you’ll get the same fault. if this doesn’t cure it, come back to us as the micro switch in the latch may be faulty

That all looks like surface corrosion to me which is just a light film of oxidisation. Personally I’d leave it as is

AC should be left on all the time. it is air conditioning so it cools, cleans and dehumidifies the air. auto will regulate the fan speed and flap positions to maintain the temperature you have asked for. Generally it should be always on auto and ac

How sure are you the car isn’t full of fuel and the gauge reading incorrect? If there is an airlock in the fuel filler neck then this should be cured by either a blocked relief that goes to the top of the filler neck (if that’s blocked with debris your tank will be full of rubbish) My second suggestion is void as you have a diesel so it won’t have a vapour return. Id be confirming you definitely have an empty tank first before thinking there is an air lock.

Id be getting a detailed engineers report first. Due to lack of oil is an interesting one, there are many possibly causes - Oil pump failure meaning no pressure? High pressure leak meaning unable to build pressure? No oil at all in the engine? Oil diluted to the point it doesn’t do it’s job? Oil gallery blockages? Oil pickup blockages? how much oil came out the engine? Any oil contamination? Any debris in the oil? If it’s down to oil pressure - why no low pressure warning? if it’s down to low or no oil - again why no pressure warning + no level warning? You say the engine turned over before? If the engine was seized the starter motor would make a faint click and nothing more. What has actually seized? The crankshaft? The camshafts? Has the engine been stripped down to find out which of these parts caused the seizing? Are the bearings overheated? Is there any bearings left? can the engine be rebuilt with oversized bearings and a reground bearing surface? these are just a few of the questions I would want to know the answer to - and if your mechanic can’t answer them, take the car elsewhere. everyone is so quick to replace rather than repair - often at the customers expense!

If it’s failed that badly it may come down to a destructive method. Strip the inside out to access the latch and break open the plastic to remove parts until it’s free to unlock. that’s as long as you have exhausted all other options and confirmed the latch is the faulty part

Same fault doesn’t always equal same solution. When you say no fault is revealed, what are you scanning with? What module are you checking specifically? Is the sub module of wiper motor on the LINbus network being detected in the body control module

No need to even drive the car to clear the errors simply start the engine slowly turn the steering lock to lock back to centre with the steering ignition off ignition on sorted Spot on with the battery adaptations being required though

This photo might help you a bit

Yes it can be done. First you need to lift the surround around the gear knob. Press the emergency release and move the gearbox to N, this will release the parking lock detent in the gearbox. Handbrake needs releasing either via diagnostic use or mechanically by removing the motors and winding the calipers off. This is not for 4wd models. And please don’t take this as gospel without consulting the handbook on exact specs as you may have a max tow speed and max tow distance also. and take note the steering lock on keyless cars won’t be unlocked if no power.

A pressure sensor wouldn’t cause the failure of a DPF. A DPF is a ceramic monolith, the only way of failure would be impacted by something such as the tip of a temperature sensor or the impeller from the turbo. or The DPF has got to a temperate probably over 1000c and it has caused the failure through melting. The only way this could of happened would be: Air - possible air leak or over boost Fuel - leaking injector would dump excess fuel into the exhaust and cause the temperature rise Timing - you’d expect a fault code for this but bad timing could cause it. personally I’d be smoking testing the engine, checking the turbo is still in one piece and also checking them injectors. also chances are the dpf pressure sensor is not faulty - it will read high/low circuit faults when it gets to absolute extremes of pressure readings (because that’s how self diagnosis of the modules work) and with a solid dpf it would send the pressure sky high throwing the voltage over 4.5V which triggers a high voltage fault/short circuit fault

If you drop the glovebox door down they both slot onto the side of the main fuse box

There are small arrows on the plug showing in and out. Just make sure the arrows flow in the same direction. Don’t have two arrows pointing away or towards each other. the splitter is placed behind the glovebox where the oe MOST connector goes Into the infotainment control unit.

Who recommended you change it? Based on what diagnosis? What did they say was the problem with the old egr and cooler?