ApertureS

That’s not how it works sorry. different dish profiles, offsets, wheel widths will all vary and this will mean the point of closest contact will also vary.

If you compare a code similar to the one photographed below, this is the pad material code which determines what exact material it is. Be interesting to see if genuine/non genuine TRW pads have the exact same material on them.

I would not be putting any sealant on that part. It is a rubber gasket that is meant to be held tight to the bodywork with a plastic inside piece, Its either been damaged/bent. and needs repairing/replacing. If you put a sealant on it, it moves with the tailgate lid and its only gonna come off again/split the sealant and also not bond very well to the bodywork/paint.

The issue with rechargeable batteries in the key. You need to put the key in/on something to charge them. Which then defeats the point of keyless.

ENG141649-ENG122204-External light_Blinker-ZV_Blinken_auf ENG141649-ENG122203-Outside light_Blinker-ZV_Blinken_zu setting these to active makes the facelift tail light lock and unlock dynamic.

Really, you could have 1mm if you wanted, make sure youve got enough room for the wheel weights to clear. So keep it 5mm or so to be safe.

There’s a single LIN wire to the 5F, has this been added? you’re right about no canbus

I believe it’s a system on its own. If you have no comms then maybe it’s wired incorrectly or not at all, or on the wrong canbus network

It sounds like youve been doing some coding without being 100% what youre doing or doing it right and caused some issues. Did you take a scan of the original to put things back to how they were? Did you take records of every little thing you have changed? Was there issues before you touched things? We need to know a lot more before being able to help as them fault codes tell us nothing, if scanned with vcds or odis you get a lot more specific detail than just "ctrl module faulty"

Have you added it in the gateway installation list?

Have you changed the correct Leuchte channels to get rid of the shutters? B30000 is the correct coding and cant be changed.

Basically, the door cavity is a sealed chamber, if there was an impact on the door the pressure increases and this is picked up by the sensor, So yes, you can add additonal bits, but they need to be sealed to the door and air tight.

Just to add, Mid speakers are only on vehicles with Canton sound system also.

Modern cars throw up faults for issues… yes. you’ve got a modern car that is throwing up a code for an issue and you’re just ignoring it and clearing it? kind of defeats the point, there is clearly a fault. Just cause there is no change in what you feel and drivability doesn’t mean there isn’t a problem. the garage seems like a weird one, why wouldn’t they want the work of sorting the issue and making some money?

Engine code, gearbox code, gearbox type, lots more details required - and on top of that it needs to be a direct replacement.

We are talking a turbocharger here, not an industrial compressor. not a chance that a turbocharger has the ability to compress air to 2/3 bar and bring the temperature to 91 degrees. so it leaves 2 things - faulty sensor/wiring or vcds incorrectly reading the block data or user error and you are looking at coolant temperature?

Here comes the normal comments of are you long torso or long legs 😂😂 But in all seriousness, there is not a whole bunch that can be done for this sorry

First thing you’d need to do is plug it in and check for fault codes, chances are a strut has failed but will need confirming via fault code or operation off the car for a short time. If you look in the diagnostic section of this forum at the vcds owners map you may find someone local who can plug it in and give you a fault code scan.

Adblue injector or hose cracked - personally I’d replace both as they are fairly common. remember the system should be purged once replaced else you may get a nox efficiency code appear after a few 100 miles

There are many sensors which one? Lambda, pressure, temperature, nox? Also - just because a sensor is showing faulty doesn’t mean it’s faulty. For example - dpf pressure sensor showing open or short circuit 99% of the time means neither and is the voltage reaching above or below 0.5-4.5v due to extremely high or low exhaust pressures.

Just had a look on the parts catalogue and there are 3 variants - all are black, no chrome. the 3V5 indicates its for a hatchback. 3V9 would be for a estate and has 2 variants - 3V9863459 and 3V9863459A both again are shown as black (but do have the chrome strip) I dont believe they are interchangable sadly!

Could you post a full and complete scan of the faults you have so we can see exactly what they are, might help direct us in the right direction.

Id say thats a bit beyond misting personally, either dry it out or replace the headlamp

I struggle to believe a local stereo installer (unless he does more than that) was able to check the camera… if it’s factory fitted they would have to scan for codes, did they do this? what did he try and replace it with? If it’s factory it needs coding

This is not even mentioning the fact that - It’s an mot fail It’s now illegal its near impossible to hide on an mot cause of the noise and soot build up You run the risk of the excess oxygen now in the exhaust causing a fire when the regen cycle starts the EGR won’t operate correctly